foetusmachine

Meditating on this for the last hour, I think one of the structural weaknesses is with the key into the carbon tube. The aluminium end cap actually has a groove for the adhesive to key into. But the carbon is just the smooth bore, perhaps roughed up a little. The carbon tube is 2mm thick, so what im going to do is create a number of very small keyways in the inner bore of the carbon at the cap/glue interface. Maybe even a complete ring groove that aligns with the groove in the cap. Even if the bond eventually fails and it leaks again, I hopefully won't be dealing with a lost strobe.

The heating method worked. I used a heat gun. I imagine the glue would weaken over time with heating in the sun too, so maybe there's a lesson here not to leave them exposed. I did make my own, much smaller arms many years ago with 25mm carbon tubes. For those, I ran an aluminium thread up the core to connect both ball ends. I think I'll risk it here though. Perhaps another safety option would be to run a thin dynema cord from the housing ball mount, through the eye of the mid ball clamp and onto the strobe But for now, onto selecting the most durable epoxy to have these last another 10 years.

Prepping for a dive trip - checking my gear and realise by two big float arms are water logged. As you should, you pull out the artillery and get them apart. Using my bearing puller and aluminium jaws in the vice, I've managed to pull one end off the float. The carbon tube is actually very solid. Now the difficult part. I can clean up the open end and re-epoxy that. However, the end that's still left in the carbon tube - I can't think of a delicate way of getting that one out without making up some elaborate jig to hold the carbon tube as I try to pull the remaining end. I could: hope that the glue joint that was leaking was the one I was able remove and the other end is fine. lay out a new layer of epoxy internally at that end and hope it's going to withstand the pressure if there is any leak here. cut ~10mm off the tube as neatly as I can and then re-glue it to the end cap after i'v ecleaned it up. Will have slightly less buoyancy. Heat it up maybe and try and soften the existing glue? Just buy two new floats and worry about this some other time. ... any other ideas? Lateral thinkers, let me know your thoughts.

I dived with the Dive Machine a year ago. Great service and team. Different cenotes and Cozumel every day. Stayed in a great hotel in the same block - close to everything, besides the resorts.

Thanks guys, this is helpful and 39ers current schedule looks great for the time we'll be there.

Hi, I will be in Okinawa in early October and am looking for any recommendations for dive operators in Naha that cater well for photographers. I have Kerama day trips on the agenda and depending on how that goes and how much of Okinawa we feel like exploring, travel up the coast(s) and do some shore dives and perhaps some smaller boat dives. Will have both wide angle and macro in mind. Actually, any recommendations on localaities, sites, operators in Okinawa would be most welcome. TIA.

Made up a couple of options to try while i'm away and picking up the new housing. Not sure how well either of them will fit. One relies on silicone tape and the other is a spring fit. Worst case, nothing a bit of electrical tape can't fix. Happy for other suggestions from others to create a good solid fit. It's all 3d printed and I have plenty of LEDs. Thanks again @Yorkie88 for the few dimensions and suggestions.

Thank you @Yorkie88, this is helpful.

If it helps get some input here, I think most of the FF Sony Nauticam housings have the same optical trigger port dimensions? And for context, the reason i'm asking... I'm getting a housing while i'm overseas. I already have the trigger and LED leads, but I need to modify/3D print my existing LED mounts so I can bring it with me to install in the housing while i'm overseas. So I don't have the housing yet myself to measure.

Sorry, and stretch target - the depth of the holes.

Hi All,, Could someone with an A7RV Nauticam housing help me out with a couple of dimensions using verniers? Centre to centre and internal diameter. If its at all possible, let me know if the internal bore is stepped in any way. Thank you!

What extension configuratiosn do you use?

I'm fortunate enough to own a Sony 1.4x that goes well with the metabones. I understand that it's just slightly thinner, flange to flange, than the Kenko. Sony 17mm vs Kenko 19mm? Has anyone brought any clarity to the IQ optimization using the Sony 1.4xTC and the ideal N120 port extension?

I tried for the first time a coupel of weeks ago. It went well, but need to sort out the rig buoyancy/balance.

I'm keeping an eye out for a good priced Sony 2x. Would be interesting to try. I print my own gears. I've just adapted the model that @Dave_Hicks shared above to be more like my current one I used on my Seafrogs housing. This doesn't require the rubber/TPU adapter and i've found it to work well. This is the standard gear, with TC extension. I'll still need to test it once I get the housing.