foetusmachine

Yes, the mounting screw and tabs are on the top and bottom. I just bought mine a few weeks ago. Waiting on my ribbon cables to suit my setup before getting it underwater.

Update on this. I ended up using the model that had large flanges and used double-sided tape. The model with the small flanges would have also worked, but the larger flanges completely covered the bulkhead - providing greater fixity and definitely blocking any reflected light from the LED's. The 3D printed spring version was just too loose. Now that I have the housing I might be able to tweak the design of that to also be a snug fit into the bulkhead, but for now, i'll just see how I go with the flanged version.

Update on this. Did 9 dives on the repaired floats. I ended up cleaning up all the old adhesive off both the aluminium ends and the inside of the carbon tube. I used a small dremel to create a shallow notch all the way around the inside of the carbon tube. This created a good key for the new epoxy. The aluminium already had key grooves. I used this epoxy to put them back together. Available in Australia, but possibly elsewhere:

I havent reviewed the images on a screen yet. I'm also new to the nauticam housing (used the smc1 on a seagrogs housing). But can offer: It is smaller and lighter. The lens itself brings the bulk of the housing closer to the macro subject. The smc1 might actually be able to get into a tighter spot.

Thanks @chris, It could be that I was just shooting at the inner limit of the working distance, instead of the outer limit, compressing that DOF. I definitely saw an improvement in the camera's ability to lock and hold focus when I stopped down from f11 to f16.

Might not be possible to change the wheel that zooms. Best I think i can do it's to have the initial image preview zoom set to "focus area" and "previous", making sure i set it up on land to a zoom level i think will work for me before diving.

Hi All, im new to nauticam housings. Just wondering how people might set their Sony FF camera up to zoom in and out while the camera is in image preview mode. TIA for your input.

Hi All, I've just invested in an SMC3 after having used the SMC1 for a number of years. I've only been able to use it on 3 dives so far, but I have a question for those familiar with both lenses used in front of a sony FF and 90mm macro. My question is... for any given fstop, does the SMC3 have a narrower DOF than the SMC1? The DOF is razor thin anyway, but is it thinnerer on the SMC3? Maybe there's a mathematical answer and an answer from the gut. I'm only using my gut after 3 dives, so have nothing scientific to back its churning feeling, but I feel like the SMC3 has less DOF.

Meditating on this for the last hour, I think one of the structural weaknesses is with the key into the carbon tube. The aluminium end cap actually has a groove for the adhesive to key into. But the carbon is just the smooth bore, perhaps roughed up a little. The carbon tube is 2mm thick, so what im going to do is create a number of very small keyways in the inner bore of the carbon at the cap/glue interface. Maybe even a complete ring groove that aligns with the groove in the cap. Even if the bond eventually fails and it leaks again, I hopefully won't be dealing with a lost strobe.

The heating method worked. I used a heat gun. I imagine the glue would weaken over time with heating in the sun too, so maybe there's a lesson here not to leave them exposed. I did make my own, much smaller arms many years ago with 25mm carbon tubes. For those, I ran an aluminium thread up the core to connect both ball ends. I think I'll risk it here though. Perhaps another safety option would be to run a thin dynema cord from the housing ball mount, through the eye of the mid ball clamp and onto the strobe But for now, onto selecting the most durable epoxy to have these last another 10 years.

Prepping for a dive trip - checking my gear and realise by two big float arms are water logged. As you should, you pull out the artillery and get them apart. Using my bearing puller and aluminium jaws in the vice, I've managed to pull one end off the float. The carbon tube is actually very solid. Now the difficult part. I can clean up the open end and re-epoxy that. However, the end that's still left in the carbon tube - I can't think of a delicate way of getting that one out without making up some elaborate jig to hold the carbon tube as I try to pull the remaining end. I could: hope that the glue joint that was leaking was the one I was able remove and the other end is fine. lay out a new layer of epoxy internally at that end and hope it's going to withstand the pressure if there is any leak here. cut ~10mm off the tube as neatly as I can and then re-glue it to the end cap after i'v ecleaned it up. Will have slightly less buoyancy. Heat it up maybe and try and soften the existing glue? Just buy two new floats and worry about this some other time. ... any other ideas? Lateral thinkers, let me know your thoughts.

I dived with the Dive Machine a year ago. Great service and team. Different cenotes and Cozumel every day. Stayed in a great hotel in the same block - close to everything, besides the resorts.

Thanks guys, this is helpful and 39ers current schedule looks great for the time we'll be there.

Hi, I will be in Okinawa in early October and am looking for any recommendations for dive operators in Naha that cater well for photographers. I have Kerama day trips on the agenda and depending on how that goes and how much of Okinawa we feel like exploring, travel up the coast(s) and do some shore dives and perhaps some smaller boat dives. Will have both wide angle and macro in mind. Actually, any recommendations on localaities, sites, operators in Okinawa would be most welcome. TIA.

Made up a couple of options to try while i'm away and picking up the new housing. Not sure how well either of them will fit. One relies on silicone tape and the other is a spring fit. Worst case, nothing a bit of electrical tape can't fix. Happy for other suggestions from others to create a good solid fit. It's all 3d printed and I have plenty of LEDs. Thanks again @Yorkie88 for the few dimensions and suggestions.