foetusmachine

Prototype for 8xAA cells to create a single "Rechargeable Battery Pack". Proper stickers on order, but printed some paper ones for feedback here.

You've given me an idea to help with 20 battery quotas. I'm going to make sets of sealed battery "banks". For example, I'll have 8x AA batteries in one bank. It will have a single hex or Philips screw that holds a lid on so it can't be opened by airport staff. The "bank" will have 8x 2450mAh x nom 1.5v = 29400Wh "capacity". This will be under the maximum 100Wh limit for single pack. I'll do a similar thing for the 21700 and other lithium cells, ensuring I stay under the 100Wh capacity. I'll get some professional looking stickers printed that indicate the battery capacity in total, so the airport staff can easily read the numbers and confirm they meet international rules. I'll just open the lids when I get to my destination and use the batteries as I normally would. Will report soon on an update to the design, including STL files. Welcome anyone with further input that will help everyone here.

It might be hit and miss. I've travelled with a lot of batteries before and never had any confiscations... plenty of questions though.

Seen a few ideas out there to carry batteries effectively through airport security in carry-on. My recent trip to Japan was plagued with small containers of batteries jiggling about in a small carry bag. I decided to do something about it. The outer case is from Amazon. https://amzn.asia/d/0FsoNPo I 3d printed the inner two sections in PETG or ASA (either/or - doesnt matter). Optimised for the range of batteries i may typically take with me. My camera batteries are in a different holder in my camera backpack. I keep track of spent batteries by turning them upside down (-ve facing up). The top section holds the random usb cables in have. Much better than a bag of random boxes of batteries.

I used ASA. Im guessing 2mm walls is 5 layers? That added a relatively large mass to my prints that I felt was better created with definitely sealed, thin layers of epoxy and polyurethane resin.

So I tried this and saw how long it lasted. I did a two hour shallow dive and it worked well... until right at the end as I was getting shallow and I noticed a pinhole stream of bubbles coming out of the top. Clearly the float had spring a leak during the dive and had taken on some water. I got it home and stuck it in a vacuum chamber and the salt water started leeching from a lot of the inter-layer gaps. I sat on this for a while. I thought I could simply increase the number of layers and tweak the filament flow rate like some of the other posts have suggested. I believe printed ports are also made like this. However, adding these layers meant the base weight of the float was jumping up significantly. So, in the end I decided to tweak the design slightly to have rounded edges and I layered up the part with epoxy and then top coated with layers of polyurethane. It's marginally lighter than a thick wall, over extruded print, but has the benefit of me being fairly certain it will never leak. I've also started playing around with some ASA-Aero filament. It's ridiculously lighter than ASA and PETG, but not quite as strong. I'm planning to try a carbon fibre layup to see how that goes. PS, im very happy with the screen itself and where I've positioned it. I had it on the lowest brightness and never had an issue clearly seeing the images from many angles.

I've been thinking about adding MFO1 and/or MFO3 to my collection. Also likely to want to move to the new sony 100mm macro. In researching these additions, I found Edward's comments here. I would be really interested in hearing about new Sony 100mm macro owners' experiences with the MFO1 and 3 and whether Edward's comments about the wet lens and the functional changes to the older Nikon and Canon lenses hold true for the new Sony.

Thank you.

Still studying my new housing. Can anyone help me understand what this blue lever/button that con-rods to the back of the housing and presses on the small microswitch adjacent the flood protection switch? I know the microswitch turns off the flood alarm, but what's going on with the blue button? Is it so you can quickly dump the port if you have a flood (and you're out of the water), keep the camera facing downwards and mute the alarm without having to fully disassemble the housing?

Yes. Interested to see if @Yorkie88 has this turned on and if its still cropping his viewfinder slightly.

@Yorkie88, is your a7r5 in zoom out mode?

Thanks Chris, Just watched this.

Has/is anyone using a 1:1 viewfinder on their nauticam housing with a sony mirrorless camera like the a7rv, presumably with the sony viewfinder in "zoom out" mode? I've seen a post where someone used this on their nikon z series, but interested specifically in a sony unit.

Options are 709, 2020 and P3.

I didn't get a shade in the box. I guess they thought the brightness of the screen would be able to break through the brightest sunlight. Here are some pictures of the external routing to the m24 port on my a7rv housing. They do also supply a m16 port connection that has a moulded-in flat ribbon.