Michael

And additional question for the MFO-Users: do you screw it in the Port thread or does it make sense to get a bayonett mount for it? Even with the older Port? Or wouldn't the distance to the lens fit no more?

Hello Guys, I'm looking for advice: i want to use the Z8 with the Z105 - can one still use the F-Mount Port 18702 (F-Mount Macro Port 87) or does one need the 18708 (Macro Port 80) as Nauticam suggests in its Portchart? I still have a 18702 of my old system and can see that there is a liitle space (should be 7 mm) from the front of the lens. I can use it - but would it be a problem if i want to use the MFO1 near future? Has anybody tried that? Or do i have to bite the bullet and get the other Port (Macro Port 80)? Cheers Michael

Hi Guys, as i got new gear now (was forced to move from my stolen D850-Kit to Z8) i was wondering if anybody shoots the Z8 with an external Monitor and if so - which one would you recommand? I got my new Kit (also Nauticam) as not all of my Ports were stolen, so i stayed with my trusted brand. I got the new version of the 45° Viewfinder but i'm thinking of getting a Monitor instead as my eyesight does not get better with age... (maybe i can still give it back to the shop as it is unused and the shop might get me a good quote) The big questions are: - What will the external monitor display when connected to the camera? The Z8 has two options for its displays (menu d9): show effects of settings or adjust for ease of viewing: will this also affect the external monitor or is it more of a standalone thingi which isn't affected with these settings? - Another one: how does the external monitor behave if i shoot directly in the the sun from a relativ shallow part - will the monitor be too bright or is it still possible to guess what the outcome of the picture will be (i hope you understand what i mean?). - Can one switch from the external monitor to the back monitor of the camera during a dive? Maybe an important extra information: i just do stills, no video. A friend suggested a WED-7 (but he shoots a D810) and is quite happy with it (7" is a large thingi to carry...). But this one has only 500 Nits. The newer ones are 1000 Nits or even up to 3000 Nits. So - many questions and decisions to make... Maybe the video-guys know more about that stuff than the just-photo-guys but happy to hear what you guys think! Cheers, Michael

Hi Guys, still looking to complete my gear again: i'm looking to buy one (or if you have two) M67 to Bayonet Converter Type II. Also a Bayonet holder for strobe arms (doesn't matter which one, i might adapt it to my strobe anyway). To avoid taxes: europe preferred. TIA Michael

i do the same with the bungee - it is also really useful if you have to walk a couple of meters to the sea (or go up a dijk in the netherlands or climb a ladder to the boat or else). On one of my images you can see one shorter lanyard on the right handle: this one is being clipped in a D-Ring on the bcd and with another short lanyard holding the strobesarms together in combination with the bungees it is no problem to walk a few hundred meters with the kit 🙂

Hi Hugues, sorry for my late reply... i bought them online in a german shop: Thal Versand (https://www.thal-versand.de/Karabinerhaken-und-Wirbel/Karabinerhaken-aus-Edelstahl/Einzeln) Cheers, Michael

Hi there, i‘m looking to buy a WWL-C. If you have one for sale please message me. (Please Europe only)

Hello friends, to complete my gear again i'm looking to buy a Nikkor 8-15. If anyone wants to sell (please only Europe, with import taxes it's not of interest). Cheers, Michael

Thanks Onokai, i saw this also earlier - seems it was also listed here (and is sold long ago). Anyway: i stop searching as i go the expensive way to the Z8 System now... Thank you for your kind messages (Btw: if anyone selling a Nikkor 8-15 i'm heavily interested...)

Sold, thank you

i also saw this one on Facebook. The price is fair i guess but it's in Mexiko and too far away. Plus import tax it is not as interesting as it was on first glance. But thanks for posting it and trying to help!

For Sale is a Nauticam SMC-1 Macro lens. Works with Nikon 105 and also Nikon 60 mm. Rarely used (see pictures), glass flawless. Asking 395 Euro, sale preferred in Europe to avoid taxes (for you) and too high shipping costs. Shipping in Germany is included, will ship worldwide on buyers expense.

As you may have seen: my kit was stolen in Albania in mid October. Now i need a new housing. If anyone is willing to sell his Nauticam NA-D850 housing (should be in a nice condition if possible) - i'm open for offers. Cheers, Michael

Dear all, yesterday someone stole my camerabag out of my rental car with following items (look out if they are for sale and check serial numbers): Body D850 SN 6067938 Nauticam NA-D850 SN A417629 Nauticam 45° Viewfinder SN A426434 ZEN DP 100 Port Nikkor AF-S 60 mm SN 2269951 Nikon Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8G AF-S Serial: 62115958 AF-S Fisheye NIKKOR 8-15mm f/3.5-4.5E EDSerial: 203850 AF-S Nikon 105 UW Technics HSS/TTL Converter and some more smaller items. Cheers, Michael

Thanks Tim for organizing! And i want to add something to the topic: "Make your own": I broke already a few meters (even of the 613 core) due my strobe arms and clamps being pretty tight when i move them around and sometimes the relatively thin cable (with its 2-2.2 mm outside diameter) gets in between the arm and the clamp and gets kind of crashed. First i tried to fix the routing of the cable with velcro straps to the arm but that didn't really work. Last thing i'm testing at present is: cover the cable with something so that the outer diameter is larger and the chance to get in between the small gap of the arm and the clamp is kind of impossible. What did i use: i had plenty of paracord left from my Lanyard DIY projects. So i removed the inner part and used the outer part as sleeve for the cable. It is a bit loose but works by now. I know, not everybody may have this issue but maybe it's an useful idea for someone. Just cut the Paracord about the same length as the strobe cable is, heat the ends and install the connectors. A drop of superglue will fix the paracord on the connector (and can also be removed without destroying the connector).

I also made some - which work fine for me and my way: There are two styles to handle the camera: handing it into a boat or carrying it a more or less longer way to the shore. Also it's not easy to attach boltsnaps to the seacam strobe arms. So i made some smaller modifications: Between the clamps a made a kind of hooks (seacam sells them but you can built them by your own with a pair of pliers and some 1.5 mm stainless stell wire) where a small lanyard can be attachted. This is good as handle but wouldn't recommend to use this to hand it in a boat. For that i have a pretty long lanyard to attach to the housing. It's as long that it reaches up to the small lanyard which fixes the strobearms (i also fix the strobe with a bungee to the arm). Then it is really easy to handle the camera even if the boat group is a bit harsh with the handling. During the dive i put both lanyards on an D-ring (i dive a wing, so they go in the waist D-Ring). The second one i use is when i have to walk quite a few meters to the shore (like in the Netherlands when walking over a dyke to get into the water). It's sometimes pretty exhausting carrying the camera and the dryuit with weights over the dyke. So i made a smaller lanyard which can be attached to the right housing and the other end will be clipped to the right shoulder D-ring. So the weight of the camera goes onto the jacket and it is pretty easy to walk even a few hundred meters with it.

I'm also in for 12 m.

Nice written! Also it helps if the model has a colourful suit instead of the usual black (there are special "photosuits" from Mares and others to wear over the wetsuit) and most of the time it's nicer to have the Model not facing frontal but more "angled" (and with a bright torch) or back in the image as silhouette. It also helps to show the model the image after a few attempts- a good model will know what to do better. Works only if the currents are not to strong though. Work the image - an also necessary sign is: repeat...

i just saw that Macar0n also fancies 4-6 m. But that is not enough to get a bulk order yet. Too bad that i-fibreoptics charge 150$ for shipping... (plus tax it doesn't make sense...). Maybe too many people don't want to save money on DIY-cables und prefer to buy them from the shelf. I really don't know why we don't find them in Europe. I've been searching every few weeks but with no luck.

Hi Tim, unfortunately i gave away too much to my friends, so after i cut some to short i need some more... If it's going to happen that we get a bulk order together, you can count me in for another 12 m. Or does somebody have a few meters of the 613 left? I would need 5 m as soon as i can get my hands on...

Danke 🙂 so you need really low power on the strobe then i guess?

Great images! Can you tell me about the hairy frogfish: is it with coloured torch and snoot on the Retra oder just torches or just strobes?

Hi, i just got my hands on an unused pair of Z330s Type 1 for a "ok" price. I wonder if it is possible to change to front to the newer fly eye lens? Did anybody do it and does anybody know where i can get the spare parts? Cheers, Michael

Hey Gerard! Nice to see you switched over, too 🙂

For a long time i needed single vision lenses as i had not only myopia but also a axial curvature of the eyes (i hope this is the correct english term). I let my optician glue "my" glasses in the mask. Getting slowly older also my near vision also got worse and with the axial curvature i went back and got some special varifocal / multifocal lenses glued in a new mask. If you have a low volume / kind of freediving mask this can be a problem as the glued in glasses can get too short to the eye that your eyelashes have contact with evera eye closing (made me crazy...), but with a regular diving mask the "made to measure" glasses are the best, especially if your curvature is not correct. There are also variofocal/multifocal contact lenses available, but i would try to use a bigger mask and special multifocal lenses which also correct your distance vision (which might be off as well). It surely will help your vision, you might check with a good optician.