Floris Bennema

Its not the plug but the length of the conector cable that I have bothers me. With a lot of effort it will fit. Not nice by itself, but I am afraid that one day it will "put its foot between the door". The aliexpess one might sove this.

Great messages Timo and Barmalot! The possible option at Dive and See that Chriss mentioned does not work. I connected them and found out that their bulkhead with Micro-USB is made to connect to a device above water. And a bulkhead like the Nauticam one, also USB-C at both sides. On Amazon I only found larger adapters. I stripped one to dimish it's size, and gave up. Especially in the Olympus M5 ii there is little room. I'll try the aliexpress adapters now.

Thanks for the information, I'll think about the Dive and Sea one, double price... And yes, the EM5 III will charge once it is switched of.

Sounds great, I am jealous. My Olympus M5 III has a micro USB connector so I considered to buy the bulkhead and add a USB-C to mini USB connector. But I gave up, likely it will to take to much space with the chance that the cable will get squezed when closing the back cover. Brr, an extra chace of leakage. Nauticam, please make a mini USB bulkhead.

Like this one with a neoprene front.

.. reasonably priced as well.

It would be great if we could make a list of judgement systems of the major competitions. So every one can judge for themselve if he/she want to take part. Is there enough knowledge here to make such a list?

There's a great difference how well your pictures are judged in competitions. See how frustrated Alex is about many of them.

I read this discussion for some time and started to wonder about the role treshold values of the camerasensor. @Chris Ross and @Architeuthis are is right when they argue that "Changing the shutter speed doesn't change the the ratio of red/green/blue photons, just the total number of photons that arrive." True, but after arriving there must be enough photons to surpass the treshold value of sensor elements of the camera. As the ratio of red light is the lowest, underexposing may cause a too low amount of red photons to activate the 'red light sensor elements'. Not all in 'red sensor elements'' but relatively.. I am not an expert, but it sounds convincing to me 🙂

The link broke, there is anothers picture on FB. Also from the front, but now you can see a battery compartment that looks the same as the previous version. Obviously they are trying to create a hype by showing it step by step. Rather irritating :-{

This prototype is depicted at last but I could find no further info. Looks nice and still small with the flastubes in T position like the earlier versions.

Yes massive backscatter shots do not turn into perfect photos but it can change the image from 'aghh, throw away' to 'ok, I'll keep it'. (Left -> Right on this shot). After BSXT I had to manualy take away more points but without the plugin I would not even have tried. I wonder why I still had had this shot, probably because it was my only one from a red 'blue jellyfish'. And now I have to confess that, where I said before the plugin is to expensive, I bought it. And it worked, I even might be a bit less frustrated when I see all those floating particles in our waters again.

For M43 shooters. I designed a zoom gear for my Panasonic Lumix 14-42mm lens in a Nauticam housing. A nice lens with the WWL-1. At first it was a bit narrow to put on the lens but not problematic. I use it for two years now, it works really fine. Nauticam Zoom Gear for Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH Mega O.I.S. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5865363 Floris

Hi Wolfgang, Does the snoot screw firmly on your strobe? I have bought custom made beam restrictors for my Inon Z330 strobes, but they are a bit short. To design new ones I could use the lower part of the snoot design.

My latest liveaboard forbade even mobiles to be loaded in the rooms. I never dived into the issue but they were very strict on it.

Not to mention the danger on the wooden liveaboards..

Not a good place to go as a photographer. Of course, diving with all these hammerheads must be fantastic and you have the opportunity to make some amazing shots. Yet the bigger the group, ther less the divemaster will be inclined to wait for to optimise your shot. I often dive with some friends that have no camera. Not ideal, but they understand that I take my time. I had some bad experiences on trips with diveguides that just swam on in front and didn't look back. In such a case it's nice when there are more photographers, you look at each other and think 'let him go'.. Not a good idea in strong currents, of course. It's amazing how some diveguides are so unaware of their clients.

And that's not all, as Loic35 said "It seems that $179.95 is the introductory price (Dema) valid until November 29th. I think it's to high for a plugin, it stopped me from buying. From now on I have a new challenge, flash with perfect strobe positions to be able to compete.

It's more pragmatic to just use the strobearms to improve the buoyancy. If that not enough, you could add buoyancy arms. If you often dive without strobes, check first how your set feels without floats. And don't be too concerened about small changes in uw-weight.

Ok, I am a PS illiterate, normally LR is more than enough for me.

Just compared BackscatterXTerminator with the 3x cheaper (hey, I am Dutch!) StarXTerminator, from the same developer. StarXTerminator mostly gave a result halfway the original image and BXT. Only on very dark parts the results were more or less the same. Another advantage of BXT is that it produces an extra layer that allows you to bring back parts (like whiskers) that were wrongly removed. Like to compare StarNet++ one day.

Although it says you need a NVIDIA Graphic card on your computer I tried a trial version on my Windows laptop with Intel Iris Xe Graphics. It works, about 3 minutes for a 20 Mb image.

It's clear, I get your point. I can imagine you get frustrated! I never had this focussing issue, probably because my lens (Panasonic 14-42 on Olympus 5 III) can't focus closer than 10 cm from it's front. Strange enough, I neither have ýour' dark dots on my photos. Light ones I have, but not at the same place in successive photos. So I think that's something in the water or reflection from the sun.

RoniK, I don't understand that you ascribe dark spots in the previous post to bubbles and the light spots in this one. Note that in this photo there's also a dark one. Anyhow, so few, easy to remove in Lightroom.