pcremone

Raja Ampat is universally known as "The Heart of Coral Triangle”, for its unrivaled wealth, including: 540 hard coral species (more than 75% of the world's coral species); 60 types of crayfish; 1,070 types of reef fish; 699 types of mollusks. Also on land, Raja Ampat has incredible diversities: over 874 plant species that 9 are endemic and 6 are protected species, of which 360 species are trees. Also there are 114 species of herpetofauna with 5 species of which are endemic and 5 other species are protected. There are also 47 species of mammals, of which 1 is endemic and 3 is protected. And lastly, there are 274 bird species with 6 species of which are endemic and 8 species are also included in the protected category. This mega-biodiversity and various types of endemic flora and fauna that cannot be found anywhere in the world. For that reason, 66% of Raja Ampat's terrestrial area is a Nature Reserve or Conservation Area, and 5 Regional Water Conservation Areas or KKPDs cover an area of 1,125,940 hectares. The epitome of Raja Ampat's beauty is found in the Misool area, which, due to its distance from the more frequented areas, and the very strict management policy of the marine park, allows marine life to continue to thrive. I’ve visited Raja Ampat 3 times, and every time I go back I feel that, unlike many other places I have visited, the marine life here doesn’t seem to suffer the anthropic pressure, a sign that environmental protection and public awareness are working extensively. The heart-shaped lagoon of KARAWAPOP Geosite The last time I visited Misool, I was on a cruise aboard the Gaia Love vessel, after a long crossing from Ternate (Halmahera), which I have already talked about in a previous article. The first stop in the Misool area was at Pele island. We dove sites as Pele’s Playground, Kaleidosoope and Toblerone, all with wonderful corals and pelagic life. I was amazed by the colors of Kaleidoscope, and I understood why this site was named like that. The Gaia Love at sunset, moored in the Pele area Moving east from Pele, we arrive in the Fiabacet/Warakaraket area, near the Misool eco resort. Here we can find some of the most iconic dive spots in Misool, such as Nudi rock, Magic Mountain, Boo Windows, Four Kings, just to name a few! The abundance of life and color in these areas is absolutely astonishing. We stayed in the area for the rest of the cruise, being able to count on an infinite number of fantastic dive sites in a very short distance. My favorites were, once again, Boo Windows and Four Kings. Between the spectacular cliffs of Boo and the pinnacles of 4 Kings every encounter is possible, even with our beloved winged friends, the Mantas. Here we had the privilege of swimming in very close contact with a majestic oceanic manta that stayed with us for almost the entire dive, making some laps and then coming back to greet us. Finally, after 11 days of fantastic diving, we set sail for our port of disembarkation, Sorong. I must say with a lot of melancholy, since these places enter your soul and you never want to leave them. Conclusions. My experience on this cruise, which started in Ternate and ended in Sorong, touching the most beautiful places in Halmahera and Misool, was absolutely extraordinary. I have to thank all the staff of Gaia Love who made sure that every moment of the crossing was unforgettable, starting from the top-quality food, to the diving guides who were always very attentive and who always made us feel safe and protected. I would also like to thank the officers on board who were always able to manage all the moments of the cruise with the highest professionalism. As for the photographic equipment, for those who are curious, I recommend reading the previous article where I detailed everything. See you next time! Pietro Cremone

In April 2024, I took a memorable cruise, with the itinerary covering from Halmahera to Sorong, crossing some of the most iconic dive sites in Indonesia. In this article I will cover the first part of the journey, the one from Ternate to Pisang. I will add a second article focusing on the Raja Ampat and Misool area. I was onboard the beautiful GAIA LOVE vessel, a beautiful modern motor yacht, purpose built to explore the far-reach regions of Indonesia. This was the itinerary: The embarkation point was in Ternate, a city steeped in history. Once a major spice trading center, Ternate still exudes a colonial charm. Ternate Island is known for its historical sites and stunning beaches. Ternate, Al-Munawaroh Mosque, also called it “Masjid Terapung”, or "the floating mosque" because the structure was built by the sea, looking like floating on it. The first dives of the trip were in the Halmahera/Jailolo surroundings, and since the first jump I was delighted by the wonderful and pristine reefs of the region. The highlight of this sites are the big sponges, often covered with white sea cucumbers that give the sponges the effect of a decoration. Aerial view of one of the Goraici islands After Jailolo, we headed to the Goraichi islands, where we stay for 2 days and six dives. The small archipelago of Goraichi lies around 50-kilometres southwest. Another small cay of Goraichi's archipelago The locals here have a reputation as environmentalists, and the healthy coral reefs abound with macro marine life, offering fantastic opportunities for photography and night diving. In addition, there are also beautiful coral-covered walls to explore. Left the Goraichi's, we headed to South Halmahera, where we had another day packed with wonderful reefs and the highlight of a night muck dive in Penambuan. A small village in South Halmahera Then, we left Halmahera, crossing to Pisang. Pulau Pisang is located around 70-kilometres southwest of Damar Island, where the Halmahera and Ceram seas meet, making it a common stop for liveaboards as they cross to and from Raja Ampat. The diving here focuses on a series of underwater ridges that connect the main island to several smaller surrounding islands and feature large pinnacles covered with branching corals. I still found wonderful and healty reefs, teeming with life and, apparently, not yet polluted with plastic. During all the trip, we had calm seas and good visibility, that granted me the opportunity to get many good shots. The equipment: For this trip, I used the SONY A7RV, in a Nauticam housing, teamed with the Nikonos RS 13mm, adapted for SONY mirrorless by Isaac Szabo. I am using this fantastic lens since 2014, but with the adaption for Sony, Isaac made a fantastic job, making the lens yet more performing! Lighting was granted by SUPE D-pro strobes, with an even and powerul beam that well couples with the great field of view of the RS 13mm. The Boat: I was onboard the GAIA LOVE, a 40mt. steel motor yacht. The GAIA LOVE in front of Pulau Pisang The Gaia Love offers the guest contemporary settings, plenty of space and comfort, and a wonderful experience. I have tried many liveaboards before, but since when I boarded on Gaia I felt like it is a different level from the other boats! As a photographer, I was amazed by the great spaces that are available for the equipment, starting from the gorgeous and climatised camera room, and ending to the personal rinse tank that you havd on the diving deck, just in front of your personal place. The experience on board was then completed by delicious gourmet food , and a fantastic crew always ready to pamper the guests. The spacious camera room Conclusions: The first leg of the trip, covering the Halmahera region, was a great experience for me. It was the first time I dove these waters and I was really amazed for the richness of the reefs and the absolute sense of wilderness, we found maybe a couple of other liveaboards during the journey, and we always were the sole boat diving in any place! I will cover the second leg of the trip in a next article, please stay tuned.. Cheers! Pietro Cremone