JohnD

I have obtained a Kenko TELEPLUS PRO 300 DG AF (not the "d" model, and it works fine...AF and aperture display.

I did see. I am not sure if the "d" version makes a difference vs just the "AF" version. They are both 8 pin I believe. I would like to be able to use my 8-15 on the z 8 so I guess will track down one of the AF-d to use.

It seems some people are having success with the Kenko DG model on the Z8. Not sure if it is the DG "AF" or "AFd" models though.

When I used to travel to Cozumel, one of the recurring hassles was that they would prohibit/seize Alkaline and NiMH batteries as well as lithium. Never had the problem elsewhere. For those of us in or traveling through the USA we need to be mindful that TSA regs usually defer to the whim of a local inspecting agent. My adult son just had a 7" digital caliper taken by TSA because it was a "tool" over the maximum permitted length, despite having traveled with it at least a dozen times prior for work. I suppose that could happen with NiMH batteries, too.

I just tried the DGX (that works fine on my D500) on my Z8 with 8-15 Nikkor. No autofocus and I forgot to check aperture. Everything is put away and I have an appointment, so will check later.

Good to know. I will not do this with the Retra. Previously I have always traveled with them without batteries. I will look at the SOS mode as you suggested earlier.

I often travel with batteries in some flashlights and other devices. I use expired DAN cards that I cut into discs the size of the device opening / battery diameter, and place those between the positive end of the battery and the device contact. There is no possibility of powering the device or draining the battery. The little plastic discs are thin enough not to interfere in reassembly of the flashlight and I will often not fully tighten the flashlight head just to be extra sure there is no undo pressure on the device contact.. This is basically the same as manufacturers placing those little plastic tabs on installed batteries on products you buy.

I leave batteries in INONs almost all the time and I have had zero issues, diving 3-4 times per month over nearly 10 years. Springs also tend to fatigue from repetitive flexing flexing once and keeping it that way is less likely to cause an issue. With INONs at any rate you can replace the spring clips or work on them as they are a separate piece. I agree. I suspect Inon was being overly cautious, but I tend to follow Mfr warnings and advice. Having batteries in boxes allows to put them in jacket pockets. 32 AA in 4 boxes give a total of more than 1,2kg. Combining with other heavy items in jacket (macro lenses, ..), you can stay at a reasonable bag weight (even if above, but not too much). You cannot do it with batteries remaining in strobes. You are right. It depends on destination for me. Sometimes the airlines care about weight of carry-on bags, other times only size matters, and sometimes it is both. My practice varies accordingly. I am interested to hear what Oskar might say. From his earlier post, I am pretty sure Retra has no issue with transporting batteries installed (although I would be sure strobes cannot be powered up).

I believe the warning also pertained to leaving batteries in the strobes for long periods because of the risk of bending or flattening the terminals and causing poor connections. The battery terminals in the Inons were sort of like 'wings" and the force of batteries could bend the wings, especially with heavier batteries like eneloops. This is from memory and i could be mistaken. I never had a problem but I tend to follow instructions.

This is interesting. Inon recommends, or at least used to recommend, that batteries not be left in strobes during travel to avoid risk of damage to the terminals in the strobe. Does Retra not have this concern? Packing would be marginally easier of I could put 4 or 8 batteries in each strobe during travel.

I have been diving in Mexico (primarily Cozumel) for about 18 years and have traveled to Mexico fo holidays for years before that, and have a relative living in Mexico. There have always been "issues" traveling there, including phony traffic stops (you can pay your ticket right here or go to the police station with me and it might take hours) and gas station scams, etc., etc. But these have traditionally been minor scams costing relatively little and largely local in nature. Organized, government sponsored or at least tolerated scams costing hundreds of dollars are another thing. When this "customs" thing started in Cabo, I knew it would spread. it is just too good a scheme not to. Coupled with the diminishing quality of diving in Cozumel, I have simply abandoned Cozumel as a dive destination for the foreseeable future. Sure, you can buy a carnet, or hide your gear in nondescript luggage, etc., and Cozumel is pretty convenient for me to get to, but it just isn't worth it to me. There are other islands where divers and photographers are not (or at least less) viewed as prey. If people stop going, the ripoff might eventually stop, but until then we are just feeding the wildlife while simultaneously hoping it will stop coming to us for food. But I do wish you luck if you are going there. Try not to look like a sheep, and the wolves might not notice you.

I have no experience with the Kraken, but they look good on paper. I have used retras for some time and have been very satisfied. If the capacity is sufficient, I have to take eneloops and a couple of sizes of lithiums for strobes and lights and focus lights alrready, but I have some preference for using eneloops in the Retras over adding more big lithiums, due to safety concern, but that is just a personal thing. I have appreciated the Retra app and the ability for firmware upgrades and 'fixes" through that app. I don't know if Kraken offers something similar. Retra seems to have a history of promptly responding to questions and issues and I appreciate that kind of service. Not sure any of this helps much, but I guess it at least a data point?

Just guessing...protection of the front element? I can see where that could be useful around coral if not too much of a hindrance in general. If it is protection then a wider and shorter shade than one might normally use for a 90 or 105 might be the way to go. I have an MFO-1 on order and looking forward to experimenting with it in a few weeks.

That is disappointing. I am thinking I want of these for use on a 105, before trips to Philippines and Sulawesi next year. I guess I need to get the screw on spacer or something else?

I understand your point, but I have doubts that just getting the usb port wet will cause a short. Mobile phones that are water resistant ("waterproof") have exposed USB ports and getting those ports wet does not do damage. You have to be sure the port is dry before running any current into it, of course. I am no electrical engineer, but I suspect if the USB cap leaked, you would not want to use it until at least it was rinsed in fresh water and dried, but I don't think it would fry the camera to just get wet. I always carry the original m16 cap on dive trips and if a vacuum valve, or now also the usb port, were to have a problem, I can pull them and replace with the original cap. I am not advocating you would use such a port in a RIB or on small skiff, or really any situation in which it is likely to get wet, but I can certainly see situations in which it would be much simpler and safer to pour a little some fresh water over the USB cap and dry it well than it it would to open up the housing and removing the camera and then reseal it all. Of course, this is just an accessory and is not needed and if it makes one uncomfortable then no need to bother with it. Without spending any time on the issue, here is one option that would work on a boat's camera table: an 11 gallon ziploc bag. It completely covers a Z8 housing and the power block and is tall enough to go over arms and strobes if desired. I feel it would protect against any incidental splashing or dripping form nearby gear or a diver walking by or whatever. Although I wouldn't, it could even be zipped closed to seal the rig form dust or moisture. Edit to add: I may have over-complicated things. I guess the really the simple way to look at it is that this is a gadget that may or may not make life easier. If not, don't get it! If it lets me open and close the housing less often, and/or charge a battery that is low when I otherwise would not want to open the housing to change batteries, then It makes life easier. If it floods the housing, shorts out the USB circuitry in the camera or causes some other problem, then it was a bad choice. But I think it is safe enough. Clearly its use requires some caution and care.