Pomacentridae

I’ve been using the nitecore BB blower for the past 4 years. Very happy with it as I do not need to wait for stuff to dry and you can really force out water from all the crevices.

Thanks for this response Chris. Your first paragraph made me realize since I am mostly in Anilao that that 20° - 33° range is more useful to me, as I typically shoot fish in the small range and have the occasional larger individual like that trumpet fish you mentioned. And that EXIF at 2m I would think does wonders on the DOF. Okay I am sold haha I will pull the trigger on the MFO-3.

Hi All, I typically use the Olympus 60mm as my primary lens: I love the lens and shooting fish portraits. But the slight issue I have with it would be the focus hunting of the (hoping it was better but just living with the downside) and sometimes i find the 60mm lens too zoomed in especially for larger subjects. I am now considering getting the Nauticam MFO-3 wet lens to help remedy these two issues. I heard the MFO-3 is basically provides x0.5 magnifications (widens the view) and helps with focusing faster/reducing focus hunting. And like the idea of having it on a flip diopter and can switch between 20° to 33° However, I also have the WWL-1B with the 14-42mm EZ lens which I use for wide-angle shots. I note the FOVs are: Lens/Combo FOV Olympus 60 mm 20° Olympus 60 mm + Nauticam MFO-3 33° Olympus 14-42 mm 29° - 75° Olympus 14-42 mm + Nauticam WWL-1B 50° - 130° The FOVs of the Oly 60mm + MFO-3 combo and the 14-42mm overlap at 33° FOV. The question I have now are: Does it make sense to buy the MFO-3 when the 14-42mm seems to provide the same FOV? Why not just use the 14-42mm lens for those larger subjects when doing fish portraits? Does the MFO-3 bring something else to the table? I am open to hear cases for and against. Thanks, P

Hi All, I am planning a couple of dive trips to Indonesia (Raja Ampat, Lembeh, Wakatobi areas). I was hoping to get some leads on dive packages or centers who cater to underwater photographers. I am not sure how to go about it because most of dive packages and centers I have found online don’t seem to have that focus — and cater mostly to the typical divers who dive for diving. Thanks, P

I have an Olympus 60mm and do mostly fish portraits. One issue I have is focus hunting. Does anyone have experience using the MFO-1 or MFO-3 with these lens combinations and did it help with faster focusing?

Wait what!? You can directly charge the battery with a USB-C cable? I feel like I have been living under a rock. One reason I did not like batteries was the need for a bulky charging cable. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into this light. The UI not sure if I can like it. But you've given me a search term that will widen my potential net of focus lights i.e. the USB-C charging 21700.

I've been a light and motion fan for the longest time for my dive and focus lights, mainly because they are self-contained and no fuss. You just dry them and charge (no need to open them up, no battery changes, no need to take care of o-rings, etc.). I love the simple operation as well with the intuitive magnetic switches and interface. But since L&M have closed down, I am now looking for alternative dive lights and focus lights that are also self-contained and simple to operate. I would greatly appreciate if someone could point me to a similar product or offering. So far, I have not found any other lights or brands that operates with the same self-contained philosophy.

Hi Chris, Thanks for this, I flipped onto that page and inward lighting seems to be exactly the technique I am looking for. Excited to try it out in the pool to see if I can get the results I need. I will try the beam limiters as a secondary option -- as you pointed out it would be difficult for active fish. Thanks P

Thank you I appreciate it. Got and read the book exactly what I am looking for.

Hi there, Is there a guide to light or strobe placement? Asking this question in case someone has a good reference I can read up on -- techniques, styles or tips. My specific question has mostly to do with fish photography. I want to just light up a fish to have darker/black backgrounds, but I always tend to have spill over which lights up either the background or lights up backscatter. The fish I shoot are typically damselfish or wrasses and they hug the reef quite closely with not many opportunities for a clear mid-water shot. So, I am thinking of putting a hood (like a snoot, but not as narrow as a snoot) onto my strobes to reduce the spread or angle of light from my strobes. Are there any thoughts or tips about this? Thanks, P

Maybe stupid question but do you fly with your o-rings in place or not? i usually fly with my o-rings in place. And do notice there is a bit of vacuum in some of my plastic cases when we land due to the pressure change. Not sure if there is potential for fatigue or damage.

@Grm thanks for the photos! Looks awesome

Thanks for this! The shark safari day tour sounds perfect! At least I know what we are shooting. I will touch base with the operator see if I can join. Worried by this caveat they have: "Must have done at least 2 dives with Tec Diving Mauritius previously to assess for diver skill and comfort level." I don't think I'd have the time for that on this trip, but they seem to offer other nice dives. Will also look into Passe St. Jacques, seems to be near my work site -- this might ultimately be my go to.

Hi All! I got a quick 2-week work assignment to Mauritius! That means I have 1 weekend to go diving. But since this is for work I can only pack light. I plan to bring just my camera, mask, diveskin, snorkel and fins (I understand it is tropical so similar to coral triangle?) Then just rent the dive gear when I get there. I can’t bring my whole camera setup so need to pick between wide angle and macro/fish portraits. Anyone have guidance on what subjects are a must to shoot in Mauritius? Also what dive sites or locations are a must dive? And why?

Another one for cuteness. Bluestreak cleaner wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus) Female Parrotfish (Scarus sp.)