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TimG

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Posts posted by TimG

    Neoprene port covers damage wet glass?

    in General Chat

    Posted

    52 minutes ago, Klaus said:

    I am totally new to all this, but just received my first dome yesterday (used). Since this is a 10 cm Minidome for a pen housing I was thinking of getting a cap-type cover for it. Essentially a plastic hood that does not touch the glass of the dome.
    How should that be used to prevent the staining marks?
     


    Hey Klaus

     

    A plastic cap-type cover doesn’t have much impact. As Chris sets out above, the important thing is to prevent liquid, salt or fresh water, drying on the dome. Rinse when possible with fresh water and then dab dry with a soft cloth. If it’ll be a while before you can rinse it, keep the dome from drying out. 

    Fibre Optic Cables? Make your own....

    in Tutorials, How-Tos, DIY

    Posted

    8 minutes ago, Dave_Hicks said:

    A good fall back to multi core is a 2mm OD TosLink cable you can buy anywhere. It is nearly as good as multi-core at light transmission, but maybe not as robust. 

     

    I tend to make my cables 1 meter long, sometimes 1.5 meter for extra-long arms. Find a Toslink with 2m OD  that is several meters long and you will be good. These are very inexpensive on Amazon.

     

     

     


    Yep, agreed on the Toslink. It works seemingly just as well; and, yeah, Amazon is your Toslink friend. Just cut off the connectors using a box cutter. 

    Nikon, fisheye lenses and combinations with Kenko 1.4 TCs.

    in Photography Gear and Technique

    Posted

    Here's a write-up I did pre-Waterpixels on using a Kenko 1.4 TC with various Nikon camera bodies and lenses..... I thought it worth copying here.

     

     

     

     

     

    There's been some discussion of late of various combinations of lenses with a Kenko 1.4TC: what works, what doesn't.

    I've got  both the Kenko 1.4TC DG and DGX models, a Nikon D500, a Z6, the Tokina 10-17 and the Nikkor 8-15. I thought Wetpixelers might find it useful to see the results of the various combinations. 

    What works is in bold.


    D500 (DX)

    D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length

    D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length

    D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: Err message. No AF; no vignetting at any focal length

    D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length

     

    Nikon Z6 (and, presumably Z7) with firmware 3.0

    Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; vignettes with hood attached after 11

    Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: No AF; No aperture readout; vignettes with hood attached after 11

    Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11

    Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; No aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11

     

    Conclusion

    a. If you want to use the Kenko with a Tokina 10-17 on a D500 no problem with the DG or DGX model

    b. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a D500, you need the DGX model

    c. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a Z6/Z7 you need the DG model

    d. Forget trying to use either the Kenko DG or DGX with a Tokina 10-17 on the Z6/Z7 (well why would you anyway)

     

    I don't have the Kenko HD model so can't comment on that but perhaps if someone has, they could add the data for that.

    Hope this helps, guys

    Tim

     

    • Like 1

    Compact Flash cards on offer - and Lexar Workflow HR1 card reader tower

    in Classifieds

    Posted

    The CF cards are heading to a new home. Thanks, Mark

     

    The Lexar Professional Workflow HR1 remains available. It has the modules for SD and CF cards and can hold two more card readers. All modules can be removed and used in any of the four slots. In addition, the modules can be removed and used away from the tower as separate travel card readers using the supplied connectors (see photo)

     

    The system works really well and is a great way of managing multiple card readers. All works perfectly.

     

    €80/£75 including shipping in the EU or UK.

     

     

    Lexar Work.jpg

    Compact Flash cards on offer - and Lexar Workflow HR1 card reader tower

    in Classifieds

    Posted

    I've just sold on my final CF-equipped camera body and so have some CF cards left over - these are Compact Flash CF not CFExpress.

     

    If they are of use to you, let me know. I'm happy to send them on for the cost of mailing.

     

    They are:

    2x Lexar Professional 800x 64GB UDMA7

    2x SanDisk Extreme 60MB/S 16GB UDMA

     

    I also have available the excellent Lexar Professional Workflow HR1 tower which holds 4 cards reader in slots. I have the CF and SD card modules available which fit in it. See separate post below.

     

    Lightroom gurus, I need advice

    in Shooting Technique, Workflow and Editing

    Posted

    On 2/24/2024 at 3:50 PM, ChipBPhoto said:

    What I have found to work best for me is:

     - Use an external SSD drive 

          Catalog and files are stored there

          This allows extreme portability and flexibility 

          I can literally connect my drive to any computer with LR and use it

     

    Hey Chip

     

    You don't find having the Catalog (as opposed to the actual images) on an external SSD slows things down a bit?  I tried this system - which seems ok - but after watching Scott Kelby's video I figured having the Catalog on my Mac Studio's internal SSD was a better way to go. It does seem slightly faster. But your point of being able to pick up the external SSD and work completely away from a main desktop, is good.

     

    Do you know the overall speed of your external SSD drive? I did find upgrading the USB-C cable to a 20GB/s capable one made quite a difference when plugged into USB3.2 port. It's now my SSD enclosure which seems to be the speed limiting factor and I'm looking to upgrade it.

     

    Naively I thought you just slapped a SSD into a housing, plugged in the right fitting cable and away you go!  Advice from makar0n and Rich opened may eyes to whole new world of extra speed, complexity - and cost. Who knew? Well, clearly not me. 

     

    The Sea&Sea Correction Lens

    in Photography Gear and Technique

    Posted

     

    I think this kind of solution is expensive and not effective

    In many cases poor performance is due to lenses focussing too far requiring domes too large or even more common incorrect calculations of the position of the dome

    I have not had an issue with edges moving from MFT to full frame the key is to choose the right lens

     

    I've got no personal experience of the S&S but I seem to remember a number of folks using them and being happy with the results especially, if I recall right, using lenses like the Nikkor F 16-35 and Z 14-30. 

     

    Good though you've had no issues.  Good choice on those lenses!

    I agree with 121 that proper port size and extension length are required for best corner results and of course full frame suffers more than sub full frame given the same F/number. However I have done a number of tests using like equipment, example Tamron 17-28mm and Sony FE 16-35mm PZ in 180mm dome with and without the S&S conversion lens and the S&S always bests the native lens by at least one stop. I have also used the S&S lens on fixed lenses like Zeiss Batis 18mm with similar results.

     

    I also agree with 121 bout minimum focus the Sony 16-35 PZ minimum is 24cm, Tamron 17-28 is 19cm and the Sigma 17mm F/4 has a minimum focus of 12cm. For wide rectilinear I would chose the Sigma 17mm over the other two even without the S&S because of the close focus. It is outstanding in a 180mm port but I have also used it in a 140mm port because it can focus closer than most fisheye lenses. 

     

    To get a one stop increase for $600.00ish is the question and it appears that several have found this worth the cost especially if the alternative is an expensive water contact lens.

     

    The second issue is if you are on team rectilinear or on team fisheye. Many would rather just go fisheye to reduce corner issues.

     

    Image is the Sigma 17mm F/4 in the 140mm dome port at F/11 with the port glass touching the pool light glass, A/V light.

     

     

     

     

     

    DSC06856.jpg

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