
Everything posted by TimG
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Lens options for apsc?
Adding the TC gives you effectively a 14-25mm lens whilst retaining the ultra close-focusing of the Tokina. This makes it easier to fill the screen with middle size subjects (eg typical reef fish) while showing them in their habitat. This is Close Focus Wide-Angle (CFWA). This combination produces a very different look to the usual Tokina 10-17 image.
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Divers in the image: Underwater Modelling
A wide-angle image of a reef, a wreck, a school of fish or pelagic can look pretty spectacular. Adding a diver is even better for that Telling-A-Story type shot The diver often gives an idea of scale, usually confirms the scene is underwater, and makes the picture one to which non-divers can generally relate. The problem can often be, however, “the diver”. Viewed dispassionately, the diver may sometimes actually detract from the image. Legs and fins splayed all over the place, dangling gear, eyes closed, bubbles over the diver’s face, weird positions…. How to get over this? The more underwater photographers develop their skills, the more they realise that time, planning and effort are rewarded with better results. Of course you can go out, shoot away and get lucky. We’ve all been there. But to create a high quality image regularly takes patience and effort. So, the diver in the shot? Same approach: patience and effort. For starters, getting the right diver as a model: comfortable in the water, excellent buoyancy skills, patient, calm…. unflappable, willing to persevere. Sad to say, but generally good-looking and reasonable physique might be considerations too. Then, unless you are shooting radical chic or the 1960s look (love those oval masks!), wetsuits that don’t have holes, gear that looks like it was probably bought in the 21st century. Brief the diver: how you plan to shoot, the type of image you are hoping to achieve and against what background. It helps, of course, if you have dived the site before. Even better if the model has too. Do you want the model as background: just helping put the scene into a context? Perhaps in the background exploring the wreck/reef, pointing a torch to highlight a feature? Or a more close-up portrait-type shot? Agree some basic signals: up, down, left, right, blow bubbles with long, slow exhales, smile (honestly!), repeat, repeat again, stop, slow, go backwards, get close, get further away. I’m sure you can think of others. My partner is excellent at various other signals with which she likes to respond. These normally involve fingers - often a raised middle finger. And so to the water. Buddy check of course. Ripping currents and serious drop-off walls are reasons for extra caution. The safety of you and the model are paramount. So if either of you are struggling or uncomfortable, there’s always another time, another place and another dive. But assuming all is well, find the type of location that you have agreed and let the fun begin. Indicate to your model how you’d like them positioned against the backdrop; the direction of travel; carrying a torch which is switched on; and what point do you want them to stop or is it a swim-by? Which way do you want them to look - at the camera (hmmm, maybe not), at the reef. Maybe though you want to be able to see their eyes which might require some vague contortionist movement. Slow exhaled bubbles add drama and context. No doubt it will take several attempts. Fins in horrible positions, eyes closed, bubbles in front of the mask, pesky fish in front of the eyes, wrong angle…. (see why patience and perseverance come in?). So back off the reef or wreck a little, review what you have with your model, give them a welcome breather - and, probably, do over again. And again. And, probably again. When you get the images home and on screen, you will see just how many are not quuuuuite right. But with luck and effort, you should come home with some images that work. And, fingers crossed, that your model likes too - especially if you want to use their services again. Do give them copies. If it’s been an especially successful or challenging day why not print and frame a copy of a significant image as a thank you? If you’d like to try and sell the images, ask the model if they’d sign a model release which then makes commercial sales feasible. Adding a model to an underwater image helps tell the story of what you are seeing. But it needs careful planning, execution, patience and lots of signals. Even if they are a single middle finger. Top Tips for models: breathe with a slightly tilted head so bubbles move away from the mask straightish legs with one leg slightly bend at the knee. This creates length and elegance. tuck away gear so nothing is dangling big logos/brand names home create intellectual property issues in trying to sell the images de-fog mask exhale slowly - a long bubble stream looks good tuck away long hair to avoid weird ocean-created hair arrangements or hair in front of of the mask
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Lense port and air gap question
Yep, my experience has been that vignetting is the only issue. Diopters shouldn't make any difference. Test out what you have and you'll see if there is an issue immediately. As you say, if there's then a problem, get the credit card out.... 😝
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Lense port and air gap question
Hey Hans I've switched between a 105mm and 60mm using the same port with an extension ring (EXR) to provide the extra length required by the 105mm. My experience is that the only issue to look out for is vignetting if the EXR is too long. Other than that, no issues. No optical impact.
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Nikonos V and RS servicing
Chris, there was a post a few days ago about Nikonos servicing. Did you see that?
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Lens options for apsc?
This is my standard WA travel package: the Tokina 10-17, a TC1.4, 4"/100mm dome and a 20mm extension ring to handle the TC. As Chris says, neat, travel-friendly and very versatile. Image quality is excellent without the TC and very good with it.
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Backscatter In-Water Strobe Beam Testing
Yeah, I'm with Andrej: looks to me that the diffusers soften and widen the beam. Without the diffuser there is very sharp edges with a distinct hot spot. Yes, there is a loss of power but the quality of light looks better, to me, with the diffusers.
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wet lens thread stuck on flip holder
Best of luck! Do keep us posted.
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Mid-range macro recs for Sony FFs?
Good point, well made!
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Me myself and I
Hey Michi! Great to have you with us - a warm welcome. As an old Wetpixeler, you'll see lots of familiar names here.
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Tiny concealed gem: Providencia Island, Caribbean
Super piece, Wolfgang. Thanks! Sounds fascinating
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Bali24 Dive trip and thoughts
I like the framing of that white frogfish. Super neutral space use!
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8-15 on Sony A7
Excellent question! I don't know about the Canon, but the Nikon TCs have a lens element that extends too far beyond the body of the TC for the Tokina to connect. I imagine the Canon might be the same.
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Rosalia Moller
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Strobe comparison table
Again, DreiFish, super job - for which, many thanks. We'll Pin this so it should make it easier for users to find.
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How well do 3d printed funnel style snoots work?
Hi shokwaav The problem with homemade snoots is the aiming system. I think lots of us have had a go - I used plumbing piping. A really fun project but it's almost impossible to aim the snoot correctly even when the strobe has a focussing light. The best snoot/strobe combinations have a circular flash tube with the focussing light in the centre. (Check out the Retra combination). This is very good for lighting the subject pre-flash and then close to ensuring the strobe light will illuminate the same place. if you can manage that with a homemade system, then you have a fighting chance. Otherwise, frustration lies ahead......
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Avid land photographer starting the underwater journey
Hi Jallie Great to have you with us. Welcome! We hope you really like Waterpixels.
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Full Frame Bubble Burst
Hey Wolfgang. You'll appreciate I'm sure that we cannot discuss individual cases, but there are a range of options before "banning". That would be the nuclear, DEFCON 5 option which, we hope, we would never have to use. We really have no wish to act as school prefects.
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Full Frame Bubble Burst
Folks We have said a good number of times on various threads that posts should be courteous and respectful of members' views. Agree to disagree by all means, but this must not cross the courtesy line. We are concerned by a number of comments in the various posts above. As a result we will be using the sanctions we have available to encourage members to stay within the guidelines. We will be in touch with individual members about this. Again, if you have particularity concerns about views expressed which you feel cross the boundary, please do not hesitate to let us know.
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Full Frame Bubble Burst
Yeah, very unlikely I'd go down the mirrorless route underwater. I really like the idea of the in-viewfinder review capability but the cost of that upgrade (new body, new housing) would be in the region of, say, $5500 - and frankly, it's just not worth it. And then, as you say, all sorts of problems getting old lenses to work on a new mirrorless body (the Tokina 10-17 especially); plus, I have never yet found my image-taking limited by the capabilities of a D500/Subal/Retra combination.
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Full Frame Bubble Burst
I'm 7 years into a Nikon D500-based system (so APSC) underwater having downgraded from an FF-based system (Nikon D800). No regrets at all. I just can't see that the FF advantages outweigh the disadvantage underwater. Topside it's a completely different matter and I use FF.
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wet lens thread stuck on flip holder
Semtex? Man, what a pain. I've not come across anything that hasn't been suggested already. The only extra thought I did have was whether the construction of the flip holder would allow you take the holder end apart from the lens holder end and, push comes to shove, actually destroy the flip holder. I'd guess (dangerous) that the flip holder can be replaced. It might be worth taking it to a garage where they usual have a good range of gear to get two awkward things apart. But that can be pretty destructive too.
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Adobe Lightroom Classic Update
A further update to Lightroom Classic arrived on my system this morning, v13.3.1. It describes itself simply as "Bug Fixes". The updated loaded without a hitch...... Details are here: https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/whats-new.html
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Hi there, from Czech Republic
Great to have you with us, Martin. A warm welcome to Waterpixels.
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Moved over from WetPixel...
Better late than never, Martin!