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TimG

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Posts posted by TimG

    If you fly there is a good chance that the pressure differential can cause problems when back on the ground getting, for example, the port off the housing. You do need to be careful.

     

    I do fly with o-rings in place but because I have a vacuum sensor, it is easy to "bleed" the system if there is a problem with the valve allowing pressures to be equalised. 

     

    I do remember having a problem some years back - pre-vacuum valve - where I had the devil's own job getting a port off a housing when I had flown with the port in place on the housing.

    • Like 1

    Hi RVBldr

     

    Yeah, never easy to start with.

     

    A couple of thoughts: my understanding was that the Marleux had quite  a sophisticated focus light and aiming system? So was the snoot aiming light on  the right place but when you took the image, the strobe was not hitting where you thought?

     

    Snoots do/can have a sweet spot for focussing the beam. Does the manual give an indication of this? 

     

    The images look underexposed to me which is not unusual for starting off with a snoot. I found in my early snoot days that  this was sometimes the reason that I thought the snoot was not aimed right! Might be worth increasing the strobe output  a click or two.

     

    If you've not seen it already, quite a useful article here:

     

    https://www.divephotoguide.com/underwater-photography-techniques/article/underwater-snoot-photography/

    • Like 1

    58 minutes ago, Scubakron said:

    Great thread! Any replies from european suppliers?


    Annoyingly nothing vaguely helpful. It left me wondering what Europe uses for fibre. 
     

    Perhaps folks in the U.K./EU who might be interested in clubbing together for a bulk 613 order from the US could post here with how much they’d like? If it’s worthwhile  I’ll look into the possibilities. 

    • Like 3

    52 minutes ago, Klaus said:

    I am totally new to all this, but just received my first dome yesterday (used). Since this is a 10 cm Minidome for a pen housing I was thinking of getting a cap-type cover for it. Essentially a plastic hood that does not touch the glass of the dome.
    How should that be used to prevent the staining marks?
     


    Hey Klaus

     

    A plastic cap-type cover doesn’t have much impact. As Chris sets out above, the important thing is to prevent liquid, salt or fresh water, drying on the dome. Rinse when possible with fresh water and then dab dry with a soft cloth. If it’ll be a while before you can rinse it, keep the dome from drying out. 

    8 minutes ago, Dave_Hicks said:

    A good fall back to multi core is a 2mm OD TosLink cable you can buy anywhere. It is nearly as good as multi-core at light transmission, but maybe not as robust. 

     

    I tend to make my cables 1 meter long, sometimes 1.5 meter for extra-long arms. Find a Toslink with 2m OD  that is several meters long and you will be good. These are very inexpensive on Amazon.

     

     

     


    Yep, agreed on the Toslink. It works seemingly just as well; and, yeah, Amazon is your Toslink friend. Just cut off the connectors using a box cutter. 

    Posted

    Here's a write-up I did pre-Waterpixels on using a Kenko 1.4 TC with various Nikon camera bodies and lenses..... I thought it worth copying here.

     

     

     

     

     

    There's been some discussion of late of various combinations of lenses with a Kenko 1.4TC: what works, what doesn't.

    I've got  both the Kenko 1.4TC DG and DGX models, a Nikon D500, a Z6, the Tokina 10-17 and the Nikkor 8-15. I thought Wetpixelers might find it useful to see the results of the various combinations. 

    What works is in bold.


    D500 (DX)

    D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length

    D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length

    D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: Err message. No AF; no vignetting at any focal length

    D500 + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; no vignetting at any focal length

     

    Nikon Z6 (and, presumably Z7) with firmware 3.0

    Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Nikkor 8-15: AF works; vignettes with hood attached after 11

    Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Nikkor 8-15: No AF; No aperture readout; vignettes with hood attached after 11

    Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DG + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11

    Z6 + FTZ + Kenko Telepro Plus 300 DGX + Tokina 10-17 : No AF; No aperture read out; vignettes with hood attached after 11

     

    Conclusion

    a. If you want to use the Kenko with a Tokina 10-17 on a D500 no problem with the DG or DGX model

    b. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a D500, you need the DGX model

    c. If you want to use the Kenko with a Nikkor 8-15 on a Z6/Z7 you need the DG model

    d. Forget trying to use either the Kenko DG or DGX with a Tokina 10-17 on the Z6/Z7 (well why would you anyway)

     

    I don't have the Kenko HD model so can't comment on that but perhaps if someone has, they could add the data for that.

    Hope this helps, guys

    Tim

     

    • Like 1

    The CF cards are heading to a new home. Thanks, Mark

     

    The Lexar Professional Workflow HR1 remains available. It has the modules for SD and CF cards and can hold two more card readers. All modules can be removed and used in any of the four slots. In addition, the modules can be removed and used away from the tower as separate travel card readers using the supplied connectors (see photo)

     

    The system works really well and is a great way of managing multiple card readers. All works perfectly.

     

    €80/£75 including shipping in the EU or UK.

     

     

    Lexar Work.jpg

    Posted

    I've just sold on my final CF-equipped camera body and so have some CF cards left over - these are Compact Flash CF not CFExpress.

     

    If they are of use to you, let me know. I'm happy to send them on for the cost of mailing.

     

    They are:

    2x Lexar Professional 800x 64GB UDMA7

    2x SanDisk Extreme 60MB/S 16GB UDMA

     

    I also have available the excellent Lexar Professional Workflow HR1 tower which holds 4 cards reader in slots. I have the CF and SD card modules available which fit in it. See separate post below.

     

    On 2/24/2024 at 3:50 PM, ChipBPhoto said:

    What I have found to work best for me is:

     - Use an external SSD drive 

          Catalog and files are stored there

          This allows extreme portability and flexibility 

          I can literally connect my drive to any computer with LR and use it

     

    Hey Chip

     

    You don't find having the Catalog (as opposed to the actual images) on an external SSD slows things down a bit?  I tried this system - which seems ok - but after watching Scott Kelby's video I figured having the Catalog on my Mac Studio's internal SSD was a better way to go. It does seem slightly faster. But your point of being able to pick up the external SSD and work completely away from a main desktop, is good.

     

    Do you know the overall speed of your external SSD drive? I did find upgrading the USB-C cable to a 20GB/s capable one made quite a difference when plugged into USB3.2 port. It's now my SSD enclosure which seems to be the speed limiting factor and I'm looking to upgrade it.

     

    Naively I thought you just slapped a SSD into a housing, plugged in the right fitting cable and away you go!  Advice from makar0n and Rich opened may eyes to whole new world of extra speed, complexity - and cost. Who knew? Well, clearly not me. 

     

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