JB_Cazajous

Metabones Canon EF to Sony E mark 5 adapters work great

After many tests, I finally found the solution!!! 😁 On the UWT trigger there is a small dial which allows you to configure the trigger according to the strobe you own This one was on position 6 which corresponds to the Inon Z330 strobe This allows you to use the Z330 in s-TTL mode, but it creates a pre flash Switching this dial to position 0 completely disables TTL mode, but it also disables preflash All I had to do then was press the preflash button on my Z330 strobes No more rear-curtain flash sync problems below 1/15s

Hello Francois Actually the function of this button is not to ignore the preflash, but to let my Z330 understand if my camera is going to send a preflash to it. If I activate it (button pressed) the Z330 will consider the preflash of my camera as the main flash A black image follows.

Hello I use a UWTechnics flash trigger with a sony A7RIII and Nauticam housing When I want to use my strobes to take slow shutter speed photos, I have a problem I put my Inon Z330 strobes in Manual mode, rear curtain flash on the Sony A7RIII and below a speed of 1/15s it does not flash correctly I explain: For speeds of 1/15s and more, no problem, a pre-flash fires, then 1/15s later the real flash appears on the rear curtain However, from a speed of 1/13s or less, the flash on the rear curtain is very weak (like a second pre-flash) and does not sufficiently illuminate the scene to be photographed. On front curtain it works well for any shutter speed This problem appears only on rear curtain with speed under 1/13s Do you have an idea to solve this problem? Thanks you

Thanks! I didn't see that it was possible to remove this support! 😅 #blind

I'm restarting this discussion I bought a 2nd hand canon 8-15 and a Metabones v5 for Sony A7r3 and Nauticam housing When I want to put the camera in the housing, it blocks on the system to remove the lenses So I tried to put my A7RIII in the housing first and then put the lens in from the front. It is then impossible for me to completely rotate the lens until I reach the notch You can see my problem in the photos below Should I file the corner of the blue part a little bit to be able to insert my lens correctly?

Indeed, the port is normally delivered with a cap and instructions for disassembling the focus button Look at mine:

Hi, thanks for your interest Which item are you talking about plz?

Hello everyone, I am looking for the following Nauticam elements please: -Dome 140mm reference 18811 -N100-N120 conversion ring reference 37305 -Extension ring N120 30mm reference 21130 or 22130 If any of you have this in stock (only european sellers plz) Thanks 😃

Thank you everybody for your answers Considering your advice, I should choose the canon 8-15 without hesitation for his image quality Regarding the dome, the 140mm seems to be the one that would suit me best It has better image quality, and split level photos are possible, but more difficult This is not an issue given that it will not be more than 10% of my pictures. So, not necessary to invest twice the money in the 230mm dome I was already able to buy a second hand Metabones Mark V for only 150€! 😁 It remains to be seen whether the 1.4 teleconverter is really usable or not? This would still be an interesting option, not too expensive, and which would allow more versatility with this lens.

Hello everyone On my Sony A7III with Nauticam housing, my wide angle setup is Sony 28-60 + Nauticam WWL1 I was looking forward to the new Nauticam FCP, but unfortunately I just saw the pre-order price, and it's out of my budget I would still like to have a real fisheye lens in addition to my setup I have narrowed it down to 2 options: the canon 8-15mm fisheye, or the sigma 15mm fisheye My first question is, is there a real quality difference between these two lenses? What is the added value of opting for the 8-15 canon rather than the sigma 15mm which is cheaper? Finally, how to choose the best dome suitable for each of these lenses On the Nauticam port chart, they recommend the 140mm fisheye dome for the 2 lenses For example, could the 100mm or 170mm dome from Zen also be compatible? What would be the advantages of a 170 dome compared to a 140mm dome, for split levels pictures, CFWA? Thank you for your answers

Hello everyone My name is Jean-Baptiste but everyone calls me JB. I live in the south of France, and I dive very regularly in the Mediterranean sea, notably in the Cerbère Banyuls reserve, near Spain border. I have been practicing underwater photography for less than 3 years. I shot with a Sony A7III, Nauticam housing, wide angle Sony 28-60 + WWL1, macro Sony 90 f2.8 + SMC1 when needed. Thanks for reading JB