Davide DB

Playing with MWB we soon realized that adjusting WB and setting the temperature in Kelvin are not the same thing. Manual WB adjusts both the temperature and the tint. Then unfortunately with a standard codec (H.264, H.265 etc) the values are baked into the video, while with raw they are simple metadata that you can change in post. The great thing about RAW is that in post, besides adjusting the temperature, you can also adjust the tint, which is the green magenta axis. There is always the obstacle of storage space, which costs a lot. And with the current RAMageddon... P.S. The Sony X-OCN LT raw codec is impressive. It has a bitrate comparable to ALL-I H.265 codecs.

Hi Paul, What lenses do you use on your Red? PL cinema lenses? Classic Canon EF lenses? The big problem for those of us using classic housings is the lenses, and basically the control rings that operate the focus and also the zoom. In standard housings the control rings are designed to have an almost direct gear ratio, made for quick adjustments before taking a photo. In video, a direct ratio often leads to jerky movements and introduces micro vibrations. Cinema control rings use a geared down system instead, which requires a wider rotation to produce a small movement on the lens, providing smooth and steady transitions. The larger knobs offer better mechanical leverage and targeted inertia. This allows you to operate the control by resting your palm or using several fingers steadily, reducing the shakes typical of the two finger grip required by standard control rings. In addition, Nauticam cinema series control rings are designed to work with lenses that have standard 0.8 MOD gear teeth, with almost zero tolerance. Also, cinema lenses have hard stops at minimum focus and infinity. Normal photographic modern lenses have focus by wire, and unfortunately, speaking of my popular M43 lenses, the movement or focus speed is also variable, meaning the focus travel also depends on how fast you turn the focus ring. It is impossible to make transitions. Only on the most modern ones can you set them to linear and even set the range of movement, for example, 90, 120, or 180 degrees. That is why, in situations where you have to change the focus point manually, for example in macro, with normal housings and lenses people use the old trick of moving the housing back and forth just a little bit. It is a hard world for us 😁

Maybe the photos are just cad rendering but they have 10mm 1:2.5 FISHEYE printed on them. Very strange

Spreadsheet updated with the latest Kraken monitor V3. I asked them its underwater weight. i will report back as i get an answer. Ciao

Kraken has a new 5.5" monitor. A new iteration of their V2 that, according to their website, is still available. I'll update the monitor spreadsheet soon. From the monitor's page: The KRM05 V3 is the next evolution of our professional 5.5″ underwater monitor — same battle-proven 3000 nit IPS panel, now wrapped in a dramatically slimmer and lighter aluminum housing. We moved the adjustment dial to the side for easier access during dives, and added a rear MicroSD slot so you can update LUTs and firmware between dives without opening the housing. 3000 nit 5.5″ IPS underwater monitor — now in a slimmer aluminum housing with side-mounted dial and MicroSD for LUT/firmware updates. 4K HDMI input. 80m/266ft depth rating. 150 minutes at full brightness. Dual 21700 batteries. What’s New in V3 Redesigned aluminum housing — slimmer, lighter, more compact than V2 while retaining the same depth rating Side-mounted adjustment dial — easy one-handed operation underwater without reaching around the housing MicroSD card slot — update LUTs and firmware quickly between dives, no computer connection needed Same 3000 nit IPS panel, same monitoring tools, same 4K HDMI passthrough https://krakensports.ca/product/kraken-5-5-monitor-v3/

yes please. I'm interested on a comparison too.

Hi Michi, I know nothing at all about underwater photography, but since I was bored I tried to test Google Gemini on your question. Surely other members will step in with the right solution and corrections. Do not shoot the piano player! The bottleneck in your current setup is the Nauticam Mini Flash Trigger. That standard Nauticam trigger is a basic two pin device. It only connects to the center sync pin and the ground of the camera hotshoe. The Sony A1 architecture requires a digital handshake via the Multi Interface shoe to activate the flash circuit when using the electronic shutter. A basic manual trigger does not provide this digital communication. Consequently, the A1 assumes no compatible flash is attached and disables flash sync in electronic shutter mode. To fire your Marelux, Ikelite, and Inon strobes optically using the electronic shutter, you must replace the Nauticam trigger with a smart TTL converter. These devices communicate with the Sony MI shoe protocol, tricking the camera into recognizing a native flash. Here are the two best options for your Nauticam housing. Configuration A: UW Technics Optoelectronic TTL Converter 11075 HSS Advantages: Specifically designed for Nauticam Sony housings. Fully unlocks the A1 electronic shutter up to 1/200s and supports High Speed Sync up to 1/8000s for compatible strobes like your Marelux units. Disadvantages: Installation requires opening the electronics bulkhead inside the housing. It is a dedicated board rather than a simple hotshoe plug and play device. Optical quality: Flawless signal transmission with very bright LEDs that easily drive multiple optical cables. Practicality: Runs on two CR2032 batteries with an extremely low standby drain, lasting up to 65000 flashes. Cost: Approximately 495 USD. Difficulty of use: Easy once installed. Flash exposure compensation and rear curtain sync can be controlled directly from the Sony camera menu. Configuration B: TRT Electronics s-Turtle Smart 3 for Sony Advantages: Highly reliable smart trigger that fully supports the A1 electronic shutter. It allows switching between TTL and Manual modes directly from the camera menu underwater. Disadvantages: Requires you to manage battery charging before dive trips. Optical quality: Excellent and consistent LED output. Practicality: Features a user replaceable battery rechargeable via USB type C. A smart button provides battery status via LED flashes. Cost: Approximately 400 USD. Difficulty of use: Very simple setup. The device comes in a standalone box and drops into the hotshoe, connecting to the existing Nauticam LED bulkheads. Important Hardware and Settings Analysis Having the right trigger is only part of the solution. Your mixed strobe setup requires careful configuration. Strobe Compatibility: You are mixing Marelux, Ikelite, and Inon strobes. Inon and Marelux accept optical signals natively. Ikelite strobes require the Ikelite Fiber Optic Converter to translate the LED pulse into an electrical signal. Because these three brands interpret TTL quench signals differently, you must operate the new trigger in Manual mode. Mixing different brands in TTL will result in highly inconsistent exposures. Use the smart trigger solely to wake up the electronic shutter, and adjust your strobe power manually on the strobe bodies. Sony A1 Settings: Even with a smart trigger, the A1 will refuse to fire the electronic shutter if configured incorrectly. You must apply these exact settings: Shutter Type: Electronic Flash Mode: Fill Flash Wireless Flash: Off Silent Mode: Off Be highly aware of the Silent Mode. Sony frequently links Silent Mode to a complete deactivation of the flash circuit. You must shoot with the electronic shutter engaged but with Silent Mode turned off. This configuration will eliminate mechanical shutter wear, completely remove shutter shock for macro photography, and allow you to shoot in total silence while maintaining perfect optical sync with your strobes.

Hi, Welcome on board! Ciao

Hi Erik, Welcome aboard! We hope you will enjoy the community. Ciao

So I'm lost 😁 Was your first pc/browser?

Fishmongers, chefs, and hungry seagulls too.

Marine Crustaceans of Britain and Ireland Lin Baldock, Charlotte Bolton, and Iain M. T. Dixon A beautifully illustrated photographic identification guide to the marine crustaceans of Britain and Ireland—essential for divers, snorkellers and beachcombers https://press.princeton.edu/books/paperback/9780691274744/marine-crustaceans-of-britain-and-ireland

A long time ago in a forum far, far away (Wetpixel 2012) the founding fathers all shared the same headache: managing to shoot macro and mid-range subjects on the exact same dive 🤔 But it was a dark but hopeful time! Alex Mustard had recently reviewed the Olympus EM5 but felt a bit awkward because he did not know exactly which forum section to use... He opened his post with a candid admission: Yes, I know it is not a DSLR (but I am not sure where else to post). It doesn't have a mirror. 😇 Meanwhile, Phil Rudin was geeking out over the new M43 lenses on the horizon, and rumors were spreading among enthusiasts that the Olympus 60mm would finally show up by the end of the year. Back then, acronyms like WWL, WACP, MFO-1 and MFO-3 were pure science fiction, stuff not even Isaac Asimov could have come up with... Ultimately, in those pioneering days, the Olympus 12-50mm lens, announced in 2011 and launched in 2012, was the classic Swiss Army knife, the hero of the two worlds.👑

I should say first that I only shoot video. I have the 45mm and even if the quality is stellar, it's one of the slowest lens I tried on M43 (maybe the old 20mm was worse). Once they lent me the 30mm and it seemed faster than the 45mm to me. The flaw that everyone blames on the 30mm is that it reaches maximum magnification practically on the glass of the port. However, it can also be a false problem if you do not necessarily look for maximum magnification. In the end it depends on the type of environment and critters.

Just to have two focal lens on a flip in the same dive. Otherwise the Pana 30mm is perfect.

GoPro reported sharp declines across all key metrics in its second-quarter results. Between April and June, camera shipments fell 38% year over year to roughly 291,000 units, revenue dropped 31% to $105 million, and the quarterly loss widened to $51 million, leaving cash reserves at $27.3 million. During the earnings call, CEO Nicholas Woodman stated that the process to evaluate a potential sale of the company is now in its later stages, while the company has also introduced a temporary $100 price cut on the Mission 1 line. CineDGoPro Says Its Sale Process Is in the Later Stages – Came...GoPro says its sale process is in the later stages, as results show camera sales down 38% and cash down to $27.3 million.

One of these days I will update our DIYpedia with the latest projects.

Those were the times of the legendary cracked GH2. Like a tuned scooter. I never investigated the Panasonic custom modes C1, C2 , C3, C4 I think tou can have different AF types but not fixed focus points. regarding my sad story, today it is impossible not to notice it. Focus peaking for video and for photos the various AF modes show you exactly what it focused on.

It's strange because we have a limit of 10 photos per post. Maybe @RichN can check it.

Welcome aboard Francesco! Ciao

A drop in the ocean but definitely a good news

I am sorry I sold that lens and the minidome several years ago. The quality was great, but for video it was really not very usable except few cases. I still remember its MFD and ability to focus on the dome and even inside it. Once I went for a dive in a mountain lake with 40 meters of visibility. From the bottom I had filmed all the houses in the village and the trees. AMAZING!!! I went back home all excited, only to find out that the camera had focused always and only on a tiny speck of dust on the inner surface of the dome. Mountain legends say that on foggy nights the curses of a stranger can still be heard echoing in the valleys. P.S. No, I did not notice it on the small display given the huge depth of field of the FE and at that time I still missed the wonders of focus peaking.

I understood that you were talking about the housings and not the cameras only from the prices 😇

Look, right now a GH5 kit is an expensive doorstop. This is why I tell you that you can negotiate a great price on the ones for sale. Lenses and ports instead keep their price quite well. This is the reason why the dream of a universal housing attracts so many people. If I were you I would look for a used GH6/7 housing. There is a Spanish one for sale for a long time. Ah my budget!!! For Nauticam the 12-35mm and the cheaper Lumix 7-14mm both use the 6 inch 15cm polycarbonate port. I sold the 7-14 and I have the rest. I can assure you that edge quality is perfect even at F5.6 for the 12-35mm while for the 7mm at F8. I rarely used it at 7mm for moving shots. The perspective is too strange. The Olympus 7-14mm F2.8 is bulky and more expensive. IMHO it doesn't worth. So let us say that the 16 cm Easydive port is ok if placed correctly. My doubt is that from the photos they look like ports with an almost perfect portion of a hemisphere of the same diameter as the port while my 6" dome is a portion of a much larger sphere. Regarding the monitor. I repeat that SDI is a solution seen only on Easydive and cinema housings. But the whole world uses M16 and M24 bulkheads. Impossible to buy a normal monitor and mount it on that housing without modifying it. From the photos I also see that they use what looks like a Fisher connector similar to those used by rebreather monitors. A unique solution in the world. By the way one of the most problematic connectors for maintenance. The BlackMagic Assist 5 inch is the smallest of the series and seems to have only 300 Nits of brightness. Ok for deep dives but absolutely insufficient for shallow dives just a few meters deep even in the Mediterranean. For my old 500 nits old monitor, fora project in few metersof water I had to build a full sunshade 20 cm long. Now I have a Weefine WED-5 Pro that can be seen even without a sunshade. The new generation of displays starts from 1000 Nits. I think the housing for that monitor is also a custom Easydive. I am not aware of any commercial product for that monitor. Let alone with a Fisher connection.