Davide DB

I used to submerge the gopro on and videos would start with vignetting that would disappear as if by magic as the water entered the wet mount.

Hi Robin, Yes I used it with a 52mm screw mount but I tested the default bayonet mount without problems. The bayonet mount needs water inside to remove the vignette.

Hummmm... I've used it several times. Just read the other thread here. Are you checking it in water? On land there's a strong vignette which disappears underwater.

How did you do that? The classic wi-fi hack?

Thanks for the link. Very useful.

@RomiK @Interceptor121 Guys, the messages on both sides have been getting personal for quite a while. I would say let's end the diatribe between the two of you here and get back to discussing the topic.

I would not be so sharp with judgments. I don't shoot HDR video and I am doing great with my Chinese monitor with Hugyfot housing. 5 years, hundreds of hours of shooting and never a problem. To paraphrase, there is no such thing as just Arry Alexa and everything else sucks.

Let's see what alternatives are currently on the market and their approximate prices. Housing + monitor Marelux MX-SHINOBI (SDI) + Shinobi 5" - 1000 nits - (?) - 2400 USD (2100 + 300) Nauticam NA-Shinobi-H + Shinobi 5" - 1000 nits - (-180 g) - 2400 (2100 + 300) Nauticam NA-Ultra5 + SmallHD Ultra 5 5" - 3000 nits - (+480 g) - 5100 USD (2900 + 2200) Standalone Monitors Anglerfish HD57 4K 5.7" - 550 nits (-145 g) - 1800 USD Kraken KRM07-2200 7" - 2200 nits (-560 g) - 1900 USD Weefine WED-5 5" - 480 nits (-260 g) - 1000 USD Weefine WED-7 PRO 7" - 500 nits (-280 g) - 1600 USD SUPE M5.5 5.5" - 3000 nits - (?) - 1000 USD (*) Fotocore Monitor MR6 6" - 2600 nits - 1300 USD (*) Dive & See DNC-5A H1 5" - 450 nits (-300 g) - 2500 USD Surely I am forgetting someone. I have omitted the more exotic models. and I wrote in bold the brightness and weight in water where indicated. The only one that floats is the nauticam SmallHD Ultra which is positive by almost 500 grams/one pound. It is also the most expensive and I find it really hard to justify its cost for non-professional use. (*) From the photos and technical data this appears to be exactly the same monitor. Hard to tell who actually produces it. It is laughable that the two data sheets do not even agree on size and brightness.

Do you shoot HDR only? A general review of the Shinobi would be nice.

Yes just a bit and fill up well the housing with white absorbent paper. You should find exactly the point or, at least, the area.

IDK if Easydive makes a specific one for his housing. There's a link yo a wet lens kit (maybe Saga) but I get a 404. They have an adapter for their GoPro housing and Inon lens thought.

Physics is physics! You cannot use such an extreme WA behind a flat port. It looks like the GoPro with the superview. Also in movement the perspective is disorienting. With the AOI lens in front they would be perfect!

Exactly. Which monitor did you get in the end?

The monitor is a very important accessory for underwater video. Of course, one can do without it. I myself did not have it for years and still brought it home. But if you want to improve, the monitor becomes indispensable. It is a matter of efficiency, maximum result with minimum effort. As I wrote some time ago: Shooting video underwater without an external monitor severely limits the ability to edit the image composition and in some cases it is simply impossible to shoot certain footage without damaging the underwater life around. This is the pure and simple reality. All underwater monitors on the market are field monitors housed in a case. Most are sold as one piece except Nauticam and Marelux who sell very expensive housings for very expensive Atomose SmallHD monitors and recorders. Staying with monitors, I believe you can save money and get excellent results with a one piece monitor and housing without spending a fortune on an Atomos Shinobi. I have for years had a 5" Hugyfot monitor that is nothing more than a boxed Feelworld monitor. It has only 400 nits of brightness. Very little for sunny tropical surface waters. Yet until yesterday they were all like that and we survived. BTW the new generation of field monitors are all at least 1000 nits. for land shooting I have a Chinese Osee T5+ monitor and it's really fantastic. Beautiful colors, bright, perfectly visible under the sun and lots of features. wish I could bring with me underwater. Be careful because over 1000 nits they have a fan and get hot and noisy. Factors to consider: Weight in the water. A seemingly bulky housing has the advantage of weighing less in the water and creating fewer problems for kit trim. The routing of cables relative to one's housing. Actually, no one swim around with their monitor mounted like the Eiffel Tower on their housing, but sometimes the position of the bulkheads of the housing and monitor combined with the length of the cable make it difficult if not impossible to mount the monitor in the desired position. Maybe with the help of other members we can come up with a rough list of models currently available on the market! I'll start with an odd thing I noticed days ago.Some friends of mine use SUPE (Scubalamp) strobes with satisfaction, and I had seen that their new monitor was just introduced: https://scubalamp.com/products/um55-monitor Then yesterday by chance I came across a clone. Oh God I don't know who is clone of whom. https://fotocore.com/products/monitor-mr6 Both sites are missing very important information such as weight in water and there is not a shred of user manual.

One of our member @DAVIDE BRICCOLANI published recently a video shot with the iPhone 15 Pro on a deep dive:

Not to discourage your intentions but 60p is more than adequate, and in the long run the slow motion gets pretty boring. At 120 fps a normal reef scene is practically frozen. 120 fps is mainly used for very fast sports shots or to create special effects in very short moments. The smoothest movements are achieved with properly balanced, lightweight kit and the right posture in the water.

Out of curiosity, why do you need 120p?

Hi all, I'm looking for a 3D printind file for a Nauticam N85 port housing cap and a N85 port rear cap. Thank you in advance 😉

Wow sharp as a blade. Bravo

Link added

I'm not sure I understood these two points. Far be it from me to get into an FF/Crop sensor war 😇

Welcome aboard Ken!

Wow terrific idea! Would you share the files and instructions on this thread? I will add it on the opening post.

Less is more 😉

Nice shots indeed!