hedonist222

If you solve the reason you scratched your lens, you'll then be able to redirect that energy to other things. 🙂 Sorry to hear about your lens. I hear polish gets out most scratches.

Thanks Davide

This is what I have albeit longer. I'll keep an eye out for a shorter one. I still wanna know why one should always hold a camera while diving.. 😛 Teasing aside. I am on the other end of the spectrum. You should free yourself physically and mentally as much as possible when diving. The physical and mental effort you exert (waste) in unnecessarily holding a camera is effort/energy you could've used in garnering more situational awareness.

How to bookmark/save a thread or post?

Fair point! 😄

I found a fixaround. I've attached a shorter lanyard to the fixture poles. When "commuting", the shorter (blue) landyards are attached to my chest D rings. When I need to deploy/extend the primary lanyard to arm's length, I disconnect the shorter lanyard attachments. Its an added step till I find a shorter landyard.

Hi Dave, My trim and buoyancy are pretty okay. I am easily able to maintain a +/- 10-15 cm while holding a depth. Why should I be holding the camera nearly all the time? "Should" is a strong sentiment...But keen to understand your perspective. My issue is that the lanyards I have are, while very sturdy, are too long. It works for wide angle photographers. But when you are 10cm from the sea bed, I would appreciate shorter length lanyards. Also wondering how others go about this.

Hey everyone I really struggle when doing muck diving The tether that secures the housing to my chest D ring is too long. Sometimes I have to get very close to the seabed and then have to right my right or left hand to lift my dangling camera out of the way. Otherwise I'm just dragging the camera through sand, rocks, or coral. You can see how long the strap is in this photo. Thanks

Who's Aijex ? 😀

Hi Dave. Good point. On my end, it's primarily de-cluttering. Will soon be offering up my Aquatica 5dmkii housing and associated parts. I have access to two spares within an hour. Fortunate to have two friends who would loan me their units in a heartbeat. But thanks for the heads up. This is such a wonderful community 🙂

Selling the unit with two batteries. I don't need this anymore because I acquired an MF-2. $215 shipped via DHL.

I decided to test whether the brighter view finder caused this. I tested by viewing the same photos with my view finder brightness on maximum, like the day I took the pictures. They, as expected, appeared aptly exposed on the view finder. I then continued to turn down the (view finder) brightness till the exposure matched what I saw on my PC. I had to turn down brightness till -1 to get the view finder to match the output. I hope this helps others.

Hello Atus I have a recently serviced Aquatica housing and am assortment of ports and a dome for sale.

Why can't you repair your Sea&SEA? It's a case with buttons, o rings, and maybe some bolt-on electronics.

The CMC is made for crop sensor cameras. The SMC for full frame. Therefore your sensor will determine which one. What are you looking to accomplish? You've laid out three different elements. Getting close: this is related to the lens focal length. If anything, you're further away, than say a 60mm macro, because 90mm is s telephoto lens. You say infinity focus. Did you mean minimum focusing distance? Focus depth miniscule. Do you mean depth of field? The combination of macro photography, a tele lens, and distance from subject, means depth of field is sliver thin. This is physics. Adding a diopter (cmc or smc) will significantly reduce depth of field. What's your struggle?

That's a good point. Data (histogram) is unaffected by these type of variables.

When I do this, I line the bottom of the box with this cheap folding foam. It reduces rattle and vibrations. Here, they sell it in Italy too. https://www.amazon.it/Foldable-Folding-Cuchion-Kneeler-Camping/dp/B00B70MJG0/ref=sr_1_7?__mk_it_IT=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=4550NR0UHMAH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.8TtwLWRJVZelEmyD4Hs8oABmnVByCCqWOREWXgc7OPv6wARLDvuqTK6qf3EdTo5ccReWvbUULOpEryHIWDYgNAevdITRS0ZldEvTSnGC15xo7EcHtFxR01eAZ2fZ4ucuP04m4W7xrszZ2R0tOHUAg_nZLzo-5IS9ziU1YficVTpOp7LVX5qKnvd0_lz6RIrKWikJrgKSNHKhrq8cwTS8RX0wzNhUlMldfGXepJZ6fsr_aR6Qj7MMagrN4bnLsdjvtoKrwvoD64A5PblKpVviQqpQwiB4KFTvmcOvfDGNup8.gXKVhLAHjZph2VAMqPQ2WOmx37zLoc7AuQ6MKTpMcFw&dib_tag=se&keywords=Folding+foam&qid=1725810642&sprefix=folding+foam%2Caps%2C297&sr=8-7

Hmm my view finder brightness was not on auto. It was set to maximum brightness on manual (+2). Could me setting it to maximum brightness replicated the "auto" issue?

Argh I think this was my issue. The exposure levels I reviewed underwater looked correct but at home they were drastically under exposed. I'll check this setting. Attached is resized jpg. Full raw images here; https://quickshare.samsungcloud.com/sCsx8GjV5CmY

Thanks, gents. How does the Inon for nauticam model fare in comparison?

Hello everyone. What's the difference between: 1- the old and new Nauticam angle viewfinders 2- 32º/1:1 vs. 42º/0.8:1 I have a Nauticam housing for the Sony A7Rv. I'm considering a 45°. Would an Inon unit work? Thank you

I was reading a tg-6 vs tg-7 thread and responded here by mistake.

None. Save money and get a tg6. Preferably used.

Excellent. Inspirational. Thank you for sharing.

One of the best guides I've ever dived with happens to be a freelancer in Amed. Cannot recommend him enough: Kadek +62 857-3824-4755