Tino Dietsche

Hi Dave, Nice Cap/Cover! I created a similar solution for my WWL-1, simply closing it off at the front. However, it's also secured using bungees. I created a similar solution for my WWL-1, simply closing the front. I also use bungee cords for securing it. In my opinion, the protection is just as good with the mesh at the front, and the advantage is faster drying. I printed my cover with PETG. (If anyone wants one of these parts for the old WWL-1 (without a buoyancy ring) just let me know and I'll upload it to Makerworld.) I also have TPU for AMS from BambuLab, but I'm not entirely happy with the material yet. It's quite hard and therefore tends to break more easily. I used TPU for AMS for my snoot adapter, but I'll probably reprint that part with regular TPU soon. Tino WWL-1 Cover/Cap, latest version, printed for a friend.

I'd have to test it with reflective material, but I don't have anything suitable here at the moment. In the meantime, I've taken the snoot adapter with me on a few dives. Sony 90mm Macro and Nauticam MFO-3, Snoot Sony 90mm Macro and Nauticam MFO-1, Snoot Sony 90mm Macro and Nauticam MFO-3, Snoot Sony 90mm Macro, and Weefine WFL05S +13, Snoot myDocuments.cannedSearch.zip

Hello everybody, And here comes the next part for my underwater photography setup, which might also be useful for others. To prevent my MFO-1 lens from getting scratched during transport, I quickly made a simple cap yesterday. Together with my protective cap for the Nauticam bayonet, this allows the MFO-1 lens mounted on the Nauticam bayonet to be transported safely and well protected. Downloads: Front-Cover for MFO-1 - https://makerworld.com/de/models/2326198-front-cover-for-nauticam-mfo-1#profileId-2541153 Rear-Cover for Nauticam Bajonet - https://makerworld.com/de/models/1346497-rear-cover-for-nauticam-wwl-1-bajonet-mount#profileId-1388138 Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hi Adrian, I’ve been using a focus light on most of my dives for years now. For macro, it’s either mounted directly on the port or on a strobe arm for a bit more flexibility. Here in Switzerland, especially in freshwater, you lose ambient light very quickly and the critters are usually pretty low-contrast anyway. In those conditions, a focus light helps the camera’s autofocus a lot, and it also means I’m not wasting battery power from the strobes’ built-in focus lights. I really only use the strobe focus light when I’m working with a snoot. For wide angle, I use a focus light less often. The main exception is night dives in the lake, when the strobes are set way out to the sides anyway. I’ve been using a BigBlue focus light for years now. Cheers from Lake Constance, Tino BigBlue Fokuslicht on top of the Port, but here not in use.

Port front cover for Ports with Nauticam Bajonet Mount (Version I & II) Since I couldn't find my front protective cover for my ports with the Nauticam bayonet mount attached, I designed my own. Perhaps someone else has the same problem. It can easily be customized. Works with the old and new Version of the bajonet mount. Download: https://makerworld.com/de/models/2315559-port-front-cover-for-nauticam-bajonet-mount-i-ii#profileId-2528362 Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

@lambee01 I also use the Backscatter Smart Control TTL LED Nauticam Flash Trigger for Sony with my two AOI-P1 and i'm very happy with it. No cables and easy to use in the Nauticam Housing for my Sony A7CII. Greetings from Goldach, Tino

Hi everyone, The project with my buoyancy bodies around the port is moving forward after the version for the 90mm Macro port has proven itself really well. I’ve now also designed a matching “ring” for the Sony 28–60mm port and will be testing it in the water soon. At the moment it’s filled with material from an insulation board, and I’m hoping to measure the actual buoyancy in the near future. In the meantime, I’ve also managed to get hold of a sheet of high-density, closed-cell polyurethane foam. I still need to figure out the best way to work with it so the final result also looks decent. While I’m at it, I’m very open to suggestions for materials that work well as buoyancy elements in this kind of setup—especially if someone has already tested them. If anyone would like to print their own “ring” for the Sony 90mm or 28–60mm port, feel free to get in touch with me for the STL files. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hello everyone, I've designed another new part that might be helpful to others here. The tip of one of my Nauticam hand pumps for the vacuum system was broken and cracked. I didn't want to buy a new pump, so I removed the front part and redesigned it. It works with TPU95 and TPU90 for printing. Compatible with both old and new Nauticam vacuum valves. https://makerworld.com/de/models/2274007-tip-replacement-for-nauticam-hand-pump#profileId-2479239 Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Some examples from freshwater... Sony A7CII, with Sony 28-60 and Nauticam WWL-1 Red Sea

Hi Sabine, Perhaps the video above will be of some help. I've been using the Sony system for many years and took a lot of photos with the Sony A7II and A7III series before switching to my current setup with the A7CII. (all in Nauticam housings) For a long time, I used the Sony FE 16-35 F4 behind a 180mm dome and was actually quite satisfied with it for my personal needs. With the decision to switch to the A7CII, I revisited the topic and, after some research, settled on the combination of the Sony FE 28-60mm and the Nauticam WWL-1, and I don't regret the decision. The 16-35 and the dome lens haven't been in the water since I got this combination. A Nauticam FCP solution would certainly be even better, but it's too heavy and, above all, too expensive for my purposes. I mainly shoot in freshwater. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Thanks for your feedback, Dave. It's really neat and tidy now, and the port is only larger where it's absolutely unobtrusive, so the case still sits nice and flat. The unit weighs around 190g with the buoyancy aids. I could probably reduce that a bit more, but so far the balance between stability and robustness is perfect. With the right material, the body could be filled even more, and I might even be able to get more than 500g of buoyancy. Tino

Another very exciting topic! Over the years, I've used various setups and have now settled on Carbonarm's strobe arms and their floats. I also used Nauticam float arms for a while, but I've since switched away from them. I'm very happy with the Carbonarm arms, and the floats are excellent and extremely robust. 4 Floating-Rings provide 500g of buoyancy Here you find the Floating-Rings https://carbonarm.com/en/homepage-piu-venduti/128-floating-ring-kit-500-g-0806808287137.html I also still have several old buoyancy aids from Mike-Dive in use, which I've had for ages. Unfortunately, Mike-Dive is no longer in business, and it would actually be cool to know exactly what kind of foam they were made of. For my Macro-Port, I was inspired by Dave Hicks and his port floats. Unlike him, however, I didn't print a solid body, but simply "wrapped" various old Mike-Dive buoyancy aids around my Macro-Port. With this design, I get about 500g of buoyancy at the front of the port, and nothing gets in the way. With a suitable foam, you could even get a bit more buoyancy. My Port-Float from the back with the Mike-Dive Floats inside and some Test-Foam. Carbonarm offers a sheet made of their material, but it's not cheap. We'd need to find out exactly what kind of foam the solid parts currently on the market are made of. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hi, I have a question regarding the Nauticam 45° viewfinder NA-32203 and I’m unsure what it actually looks like in real use. According to my research, the viewfinder is compatible with my Nauticam NA-A7CII housing, but it may require an additional adapter. However, my research also indicates that these viewfinders are less optimal for cameras like my A7CII, and that the viewfinder image may not be fully sharp or may appear soft at the edges. My question is whether anyone can provide more detailed information about this. I’m currently using an underwater monitor, but the topic of viewfinders still interests me from time to time, and in my opinion, it takes several dives to really find out what would work best. Therefore, I’m grateful for any feedback. Tino

Hello everyone, I’m currently using the MFO-1 and MFO-3 with my Sony setup (A7CII and 90mm macro) and I’m really happy with both lenses! On my last dive I took my Weefine WFL05S with me again and shot a few super-macro images, but the handling with this lens isn’t really great and it requires quite a bit of patience—especially the autofocus struggles a lot despite using a focus light. For that reason, I’m considering switching to the SMC-3. In terms of magnification, it should be pretty much identical to the WFL05S. But what about the rest of the performance? Has anyone by any chance compared these two lenses before? The main area of use would be freshwater, especially for shooting shrimps and other tiny creatures in lakes. As an example, here’s a photo of my current setup shooting a skeleton shrimp of about 10 mm in length. Image minimally cropped. Thanks a lot for your feedback, Tino