gremlin

Craine thank you for that, that's exactly the kind of post I was looking for. I've been diving in Indonesia the last several days aboard the Arenui and it's been some fabulous diving. I've figured out I can get TTL to work most of the time by setting the flash mode to slow instead of fill flash, but I've been working on doing more manual control and it seems to work well on the turtle with the settings for wireless set to First Curtian with 1/32 power and flashing times set to 1 I'm also using the three positions on the custom dials with #3 set to Manual mode VV Profile AWB Underwater mode Metering Mode multi Mechanical Shutter (And I found electronic disables flash which is nice) WL On mostly (flip it off for TTL) Peak On Animal/bird target Slow SYnc Flash AF-C or DMF focus, I like DMF for macro as it shows peaking nicely so you can set the focus and move a little in and out Focus Area is Medium Tracking Spot PP off #2 is set for aperture priority with similar settings and #1 is set for program I shoot raw and don't bother with the embedded files at all since I can easily export after I post process in Lightroom I'm shooting with two YS-D2J although on my second dive yesterday one of them decided to stop working, the back lights up but no modeling light and no flash, tried swapping batteries, caps, and sync cables no dice, luckily I had a second YS-D2 (non J) in my bag so I switched over to that. A Few people on board have the Retras and man those look nice but wow $$$ I'm shooting the 16-50 with a WWL-1 for wide angle and rapid changing (I also have a CMC-1 for this giving me a bit of flexibility) and a 90mm f2.8 for macro or fish portrait, someone on board had the new Nautical MFO-1 with a flip adapter so I spent a couple of dives playing with that as he forgot his Macro lens and it's pretty nice, I found I swapped it in and out depending on what I was shooting

Yes The back was lit orange, no matter what mode the dial was in including off. It stayed this way until I got back on shore and removed the batteries. On the subsequent dive it behaved itself.

Just went down for a dive and one of my YS-D2J's stayed with the back lit up orange the entire time, even when it was switched off, I figured I had flooded it so just dove with one strobe, then got back on the boat, rinsed and dried out the strobe, popped the battery panel and it's dry as a bone. When I put it back together it turned on normally power switch changes back colour with modes correctly and all seems fine. I did a bunch of searching and read the manual but can't find any reference to this, turning it on and off underwater did nothing. Has anyone seen this, is there something you can do to reset it when underwater?

I mean I'm sure they're there for a reason and Pavel's a smart dude so I don't doubt they're needed but the engineer in me just can't figure out how the built in flashes have no need of knowing what strobe they're actuating.

No I get that, I guess what I said wasn't clear, I don't understand why different strobe require the triggers to do different things for the TTL to work rather than the Trigger just doing exactly what the built in flash does when used in TTL mode which does trigger the flashes correctly in TTL. In other words why do I have to tell the trigger what strobe it's triggering when I don't do anything to tell a built in flash what strobe it's triggering and that works?

Wow talk about thread creep.... I had the A6500 before the a6700 and used the internal flash, with the extra battery in the Nauticam housing that worked pretty well, but I Was always trigger curious as they don't pull the battery down and also recharge faster. One thing I really can't understand though is how the triggers can't work with any flash that would just work with a built in flash? I would get it for the strength, and I'm sure these folks know their stuff, but my EE Brain just thinks if you just emulated what the built in flash would've done and the built in flash can trip all the various strobes in their TTL modes why can't a trigger also do that? Oh well.... Maybe that's why I stopped doing EE stuff after I graduated...

Is there a new firmware to download or is it just purchase a new trigger?

nullPerhaps optically weak it still produces some nice photos, I'm not trying to get published, I just enjoy shooting and we make memory books of our trips and hang things on the wall from time to time when I get something good.

Maybe, as I said above I really like to have TTL as well, so maybe there's not a solution that offers all of this, I'll have to play a bit more with the Turtle and see if I put it into wireless flash mode if I can do that.

I can turn off the strobes by just turning off the strobes, (easier than pulling the fiber optic cable) but that doesn't turn off the trigger on the camera, so the camera still thinks it has a flash and is limited to flash sync shutter speeds. As for the 16-50 yeah it's not the best lens, the 90mm macro is very nice, at some point I might consider changing to something better, but it's nice a versatile, I have a diopter for it and the WWL wet lens as well, making it easy to shoot whatever I find, I'm happy with the results.

I did some searching and did not find a thread related to this (there's one called A6700 Settings about video) so I thought it might be nice to create a thread for those shooting the A6700 to discuss best practices settings etc. I'm shooting in a Nauticam housing with a Smart Turtle TTL Trigger I'm currently shooting with YS-D2 strobes and using either the 16-50 kit lens or the 90mm 2.8 macro depending on situation. I've only done one trip so far with the setup (I used mostly the same setup with my a6500 from 2018, so it's fairly similar) I usually start with TTL flashes as I find I get pretty decent results that way but if the critters aren't shy will switch to going manual as I can. One frustration I'm finding right now is there doesn't seem to be anyway to just turn off the flashes in the camera, and as such I can not in Program mode use the knob to shift the aperture/shutter speed values while maintaining exposure. (Going to the flash settings and selecting Off says it's not available in this mode) I'm shooting in RAW Mode, I select the Auto Underwater White balance as a starting place, and then am shotting in either Aperture priority or Program mode usually using a center balanced metering mode and a center tracking focus using the back button to focus at all times (I turn of focus on shutter). I tend to use focus peaking and DMF as my focus mode as it allows me to see when eyes are in focus a little more easily. My other frustration is that with the 16-50 lens, on the A6500 in DMF you could hold the focus button down and move the knob that actuates the zoom and it would actually adjust focus, letting go of the focus button it would revert to actuating the Zoom, unfortunately on the A6700 they changed this behaviour and I now have the C3 button set to toggle between manual and auto focus modes so that I can manually adjust the focus (handy when I'm running a macro diopter on the lens)

That’s some great news

Spoke with Rob at Backscatter just now and it's apparently not an issue with the height but the length. Apparently at the front of the trigger the LED's plug in with a usb type connector and that cable ends up too long going towards the front of the A6700 housing, very unfortunate but the cost perhaps of having a more robust connector for the LED's

I’m not sure I understand will the universal trigger with the outboard LEDs not work in the Sony a6700 nauticam housing there seems to be quite a bit of room around the smart turtle in that setup so I’d expect that one to be able to work

Revising the listing again, it's no longer on ebay, but I'll go for $1200 for just the housing if anyone is interested (including the housing batteries and pump)