Chris Ross

Yes that's right and it would also mean losing some of the advantages as lenses would on average be bigger and the larger sensor would mean the image stabilisation for which Olympus bodies are renowned would be less effective. The smaller sensor has less mass and is easier to accelerate and decelerate to cancel out camera movement.

I think all of the sensors are plateauing now and they are all really quite good these days. For me the m43 provides very small compact lenses and a complete lineup of them. Canon/Nikon/Sony APS-C don't have a lot of choice in lenses in comparison and are somewhat neglected. The reality as I see it is that m43 is good enough for most people given what they use the images for. I use an OM-1 on land and it has lots of neat features in computational photography and is a macro machine with the 90mm macro, focus stacking is super easy and using the 90mm macro on it is unmatched for shooting small bugs handheld. Admittedly not much applicable for UW, but it does a fine job there as well and can shoot macro of small critters without needing to resort to a closeup lens.

Just to clarify on the option of the 10-17 adapted with a metabones 0,7x speed booster this replaces the 8mm fisheye and it's port and this port could carry over eventually to an APS-C setup and be used there so you would have a 4.33"/140mm dome and a macro port on your travels only. The items that would not carry over would be the metabones speed booster and the n85-n120 adapter which you could probably sell quite easily.

It's possible it does that - you could check by comparing the red channel histogram between the two options. Be easist to do on land shooting in daylight through something like a Wratten 80A filter. Shoot identical exposures one manual WB and one UW WB. It's probably not perfect but might be enough red removal to see if there is a noticable difference in the red channel.

There's a few options you could look at perhaps a Tokina 10-17 and Metabones 0.7x behind a small dome. If I recall correctly you would need an N85-N120 adapter and a 140mm or 4.33"N120 dome. You aren't specific about which Canon MIL you are looking at but the Tokina could cross over to an APS-C MIL camera and the N120 domes could move across as well. Potentially little loss on an upgrade path. I would also suggest don't assume you need full frame. If you are worried about the expense of an MWL, then the costs for full frame may be an issue as well. The Canon 8-15 Tokina 10-17 on m43 or 10-17 on APS-C is a really versatile setup which just isn't available of full frame unless you fork over the big $$ for a fisheye conversion port. The smaller formats are easier to travel with, cheaper and good enough for a great many people.

Don't confuse what is used to sell equipment with what actually works best or what is actually needed, plenty of examples of that around like 100 MP phone cameras. I believe there is some use in high nit ratings for example punching specular highlights above the screen average brightness to make them closer resemble what you actually see in the real world. But you don't want large areas of the screen punching that high as it will dazzle you. Good TVs can distinguish between specular highlights and large bright areas to achieve that. But a lot is driven by marketing and also OLEDs are more limited in brightness output than traditional screens and traditional screen makers push brightness numbers they know OLED makers can't and don't need to match to try to compete.

It could be due to colour temp limitation or could be due to technique of WB reading, from what I understand the exposure used for WB needs to be a "good" exposure and it should be taken in same light as your subject. Same light means in this context at about the same distance. I assume you are shooting ambient light as you didn't mention lights so the effect may not be as big, but if you take a WB image of a slate on your wrist you could be shading the slate with the camera and your body. The fact that you get UW auto to work tends to indicate an issue with the way WB is being done, normally I wouldn't expect the colour temperature range to be significantly greater in auto compared to what can be set manually. Perhaps a white patch on your fin could be used - it would be closer to subject distance and could be oriented to get a shot in same light as subject. I'm assuming UW auto is an option available for WB from the camera menu.

I will add that the Tokina is currently a no go on Z series cameras as it's screw drive lens, so even on an APS-C Z series and the ZF adapter it can't AF. I wouldn't worry about spares, housings tend to use the same hardware for all of their buttons so I would expect them to be around for a while. My EM-1 MkII Nauticam housing has not been serviced and was purchased in 2017. If you want something more future proof you could also look at Isotta housings as well, a good housing but the internals are a bit simpler to the point they can be serviced yourself.

Welcome on board Tess, great to have another Aussie and a temperate water diver at that onboard.

We are not at all interested in who started it, I made it clear this was directed at both of you. It is OK to disagree with other viewpoints and there is no requirement for you to agree or disagree with what Massimo posts or vice versa - it's called robust discussion. If you disagree state your arguments as to why you disagree, back it up with logic and examples and leave it there. No name calling or insults. Feel free to continue to discuss respectfully, however cross the line and as Tim says the thread is locked.

This format can be frustrating for photographers however it can readily be addressed with some research. For example the Lembeh dive resorts operate somewhat differently with group sizes of 2-4. Their method is to find a subject for you and then once you have settled , go to find the next subject while you are working on your shots. Then they return to take you to next subject. You can also pay a premium for a private guide. Many of the Lembeh strait operations publish their policies for this.

@RomiK The cease and desist is directed at you in particular, do you not understand the request to stop throwing insults around and stick to the subject matter? Massimo is allowed to disagree with you as you are with him but we are requesting both of you do it by clearly and calmly stating your cases. If you can't solve it that way please agree to disagree.

Please do. And to both of you just to be totally clear phrases like : "I’ve tried to help but no more 🤦‍♀️ you really are full of …." " so you you conclude in your own little brain that the things just can’t be" " but that’s ok we all need to live in the world of trolls … 🤦‍♀️" "And if not why don't you just shut up? It is simple as that" "The AVIF file you linked looks horrible too and nothing to call your mama about" Are not staying on subject, they are attacks on the messenger and don't help you argue your case. Please refrain from such attacks.

Guys, can we tone it down a little please, please attack the subject rather than than each other. Robust discussion is quite welcome on the forum, however name calling and other types of personal attack are not. This is not about who is right or wrong and whether HDR is indeed useful UW, rather it's about showing each other a measure of respect. Please try to state your arguments clearly to defend your position with facts data and examples, calling the other person an idiot doesn't prove you are right.

I recall a post from someone looking for a replacement battery for the Nauticam solution on WP a while back. I suspect the reason it was discontinued is because the power pack they were using was no longer available and nothing on the market would fit there. The issues seems to be that the power packs change size, shape, colour capacity, features etc, literally every 12 months. The USB C connector solution seems to be the best option available, won't fit everything but it will allow you to charge battery and download photos without opening the housing.

Believe winds are up in September from the south so getting to the resort and the out to the dive spots not as pleasant, but improves by October. Strong south winds may impact which sites they go to. I've not been but a friend of mine who has been many times goes to this place: https://papua-diving.com/ . He does a lot of dive travel and has been there a number of times, Cape Kri is their house reef. I'm planning on going next year.

The leak detector is quite simple, just a circuit that detects increased conductivity when you bridge the terminals with a little water, it would have negligible current use unless it activates. So I would think quite safe to leave the battery in place. Regarding the vacuum circuit, the Nauticam system is quite good but the system you have also works. You could install the the Nauticam circuit probably fiddly but possible, though installing the LED my be a little tricky, you might be able to use the LED window on your current housing for this purpose, if the LED supplied fits. It will depend if you can find room to mount all the needed components. You would get similar functionality to the Nauticam system with a Vivid Leak Sentinel and it would be a lot easier to install as it only needs a free M14 or M16 port, you would likely install where you have your current vacuum valve.

It's going to be hard to tell what's happening from photos, obviously the mechanism is partly hidden. You would need to turn the knob back and forth and confirm which parts move inside and feel how things move in there. So confirming that the knob turns the camera rear dial that would be the smooth knob directly below the vacuum valve in your photo, outlined in red here: The parts outlined in blue look like the parts that control the two dials and they would be the parts you would be looking to remove. Looking at the following view of the housing it appears this might be the drive train outlined in red: You would need to confirm that by checking if the shaft rotates when you operate the knob. Before you start pulling it apart it is probably best to confirm if you can buy the needed parts, perhaps you could contact Backscatter or Reef as they seem to to service Nauticam gear to see if they can provide the needed parts and assistance with how to install them.

Most sources say that the vacuum light goes green at 200 mbar which is about 5 in Hg. 15 in Hg is probably a bit too much and I would stick to around 5". Regarding fogging, aluminium housings are generally a lot less prone to fogging, but it can still happen. It depends on how humid the air is when you close the housing. 4°C is quite cold so you would want fairly dry air inside the housing to guarantee it won't fog on you. For example if the air is 20°C and the relative humidity 30% then the dewpoint is right about 4°C. This chart allows you to estimate the dewpoint: https://www.hardwareinterviews.fyi/t/why-does-condensation-form-on-the-outside-of-cold-glass-on-a-hot-day/19/2 Start at dry bulb temperature and go up vertically to the relative humidity (blue line) then horizontally across to the the 100% RH curve. This provides the dewpoint temperature of the air and when it cools to that temperature, water starts to condense. As to what to do about it it would depend on your atmospheric conditions on the day the hotter and more humid the air the more likely it is to fog. An easy way to help is to purge the housing with air from a scuba tank which should be bone dry immediately before closing up. The vacuum will also help a little. Aluminium housings normally don't fog as the metal gets cold quicker than the glass and the moisture if any will condense on the metal walls. I recall that some triggers switch themself off when the camera is off, There was a post on this topic a little while back- possibly on Wetpixel? Can't say for certain about the nauticam, but I recall they have a very long battery life.

Cameras, lenses, adapters etc you can generally price looking at Ebay auction results, filtering for completed sales. You could also look at Keh.com or other second hand stores and ask for a little less than them as they offer warranties on items they sell. Directions for doing this on Ebay here: https://litcommerce.com/blog/how-to-see-sold-items-on-ebay/ I usually look for completed items. Another factor to consider is that camera specific items like housings will realise a lower % of new price than items like your 45° viewfinder which can be used on nearly any Nauticam housing. Similarly for strobes, domes and WACP which are more widely able to be used regardless of camera brand/model.

You might need a new o-ring for the knob and you should use new c-rings if you disturb any, they are mainly used on button shafts to secure them to any internal levers used. Nauticam housing are known to be difficult to to service due to the complicated mechanisms inside. How you deal with it will vary depending on how accessible the knob is and whether you need to remove other internals to access the knob itself. Often the motion is transmitted to the the camera knob by a gear train. This means that the stiffness my be the knob itself or there could be an issue with the gear train and internal wheel. This is a snip of the internals of the A7RIII housing: I assume you are referring to one of the knobs shown here, either exp comp or rear dial (the knob for rear dial only just appears above the housing in this shot). The mechanism for this dial is buried beneath several other mechanisms and it is hard to tell from this image just what would need to be removed to allow it to be serviced. It appears the drive for the rear dial is transmitted by the shaft at the top of the image. On my housing the drive knob is in a spring loaded assembly with cap screws securing it to the housing body. I highlighted what appears to be the drive wheel for the rear dial and you might be able to remove that assembly to check it. You would need to examine it closely to determine how each component is secured and disassemble in the correct order. The tools required should be straight forward, the difficulty is removing other mechanisms which might be in the way and re-installing them correctly.

Yes I'm using the Metabones and it seems to work in C-AF, haven't tried the tracking modes though. If I recall correctly I downgraded the firmware to get it working on a big Canon Tele lens. AF seems quite rapid with the 8-15, haven't used it anywhere that would require any sort of tracking though.

Is the knob difficult to turn with the housing empty? Or only when the camera is loaded?

Yes that is correct, the 8-15 used a 30mm extension with the 140mm dome, I have an old version of the Canon EF port chart open in my browser now. I also opened the new one and it is now one long page instead of being divided into pages like the old one and cuts off suddenly in the middle of page 7 of 9 and the listing for the Sigma 14-24 is cut in half. Seems like the obversion to pdf might have failed somehow and it cuts off a few Zeiss lenses, the Tokina 10-17, Nikon 10mm as well as the 8-15 fisheyes and the Sigma fisheye.

Thanks!, lighting is pretty standard 10 and 2 lighting close in and a bit behind the port. They are quite small in the range of 35-55mm total length, the way to spot them seems to be that they are slightly out of sync with the surge.