Chris Ross

Welcome Aboard Brett! You'll see a great many Wetpixel members have moved across.

I use Capture One - a big bonus for me is that includes Levels - to me that is invaluable, to get a punchy, contrasty photo you need to get the histogram under control and the levels tool also allows very quick colour balance adjustments - by adjusting levels on each channel, something that LR still doesn't have as far as I know. Backscatter removal tools I find are best in full photoshop they are not so intuitive to use in LR or Capture One, same with masking. Though I just tried the healing mask in Capture One and it seems to be pretty quick to deal with backscatter.

This is the lug ring you would need: Howshot Bayonet Port Ring for Sea&Sea DX/NX Ports – DiverVision Underwater Photo Equipment

You can use many Nauticam ports on Isotta, you just need to change out the lug ring that is bolted to the back of the port, to a Sea and Sea lug ring then they will fit Isotta housings for N120 ports. You would need to buy new zoom gears though. As I understand it they are a direct swap at least for DSLR lenses. You could ask Isotta if any changes are required to extension going from Nikon F to Nikon Z. Before diving in check that your ports have a removable lug ring and then add up the prices for new lug rings and zoom gears and any new extension rings if you need them (they are cheaper than Nauticam equivalent). You can then work out if you are actually making a saving. Also note Nauticam ports are push in and operate lock lever. Isotta ports are push in and turn.

Who are you flying with?, this can make a difference as to whether your carryon is weighed. Jetstar for example will weigh carryons so they charge you to check an extra bag. If you have a travelling companion temporarily off loading some gear to their carryon can be a strategy.

Was the scam from someone posting on the classifieds forum here? If so please report it to us.

One thing to note with monitors is that for imaging and particularly for printing they can easily be way too bright. The standard brightness is 100-110 cD/m2 and some monitors struggle to get down to that value. If you edit on a very bright monitor your images will come out too dark for someone viewing on a standard photo monitor and prints will be too dark compared to the screen.

I would second an Eizo monitor. If you are printing having Adobe RGB or a good percentage of that is an advantage as inkjet printers can print pretty much all of Adobe RGB colours and if you are editing on a lesser monitor you won't actually be able to see those colours before you print. The Eizo inbuilt calibration capabilites together with a good colorimeter puck make an easy job of calibration - quite important if you are printing. My view is that for the vast majority of people the end product of all the $1000's we spend on camera equipment is what we see on our monitor and it is not something to cheap out on. I have two Eizos on my desk a good quality one and a standard grade one next to it and I keep all of my palettes etc over there so I can use the whole of the 27" monitor for the image. You could keep your existing monitor for all the palettes you keep open and then a 27" is probably big enough.

Welcome aboard, good to have another Sydney-sider here.

Better late than never and with all the talk about the new FCP, this is basically the same thing but now available on full frame. Yes Wolfgang did a lot of good work on this with m43!

Welcome onboard Rohan, good to see you here.

Most remotes for flashes use either cable, radio signals or optical signals. I would think that radio signals would have trouble getting out of the housing and penetration through water would be limited. How do you plan to trigger the flash? It looks like the camera has a multi interface shoe so you should be able to attach a flash trigger. You would need a trigger with a longer cord for the LEDs and you could probably mount them to the inside of the viewfinder window and stick a port on the outside to attach a fibre optic cable. Most important you need enough space inside to mount the trigger. I suspect you would need to mount the trigger in the back half so you could attach the LED to the rear window - probably using double sided tape. The hotshoe cable would also need to be long enough so you could fit it to the hotshoe when assembling the housing. You might try contacting Turtle and UWT for advice? Otherwise I believe you can get an M14 or M16 fibre optic port and you would need to drill and tap a hole to instal it. You could always email Gates to ask for advice?

You need the N85-N120 34.7mm adapter then 35mm extension then 140mm port. If you have the 4.33"port and it's an N120 already you can use that instead, believe the extension is the same. You need a 3D printed part to adapt the Canon 8-15 zoom ring as the 34.7 adapter is designed to use with the Metabones speed booster which is 5mm thinner. You use the focus knob on the adapter to zoom rather than the housing zoom knob, so you basically can't use both. You can also use the Tokina 10-17 with the speed booster, all equipment is the same except I think it's the 30mm extension and you just use the zoom gear directly. It's all in this thread: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/61629-canon-ef-lenses-on-mft-cameras/page/4/&tab=comments#comment-446983 I think the 8mm FE is pretty much equivalent to the 8-15 at 8mm, the advantage is the zoom giving you reach so you can shoot smaller CFWA subjects and shoot shy pelagics that don't come close enough. Also means you can for example shoot a hawkfish sitting on a coral from a bit further back. For me it means I can leave the dome for the 7-14 at home and just shoot with this combination.

Thanks to all who have signed up for the support of the new forum

I recently acquired a Canon 8-15 fisheye. Calculations show it covers the range from full frame fisheye to 28mm FF equivalent, albeit with barrel distortion the whole way - a pretty handy range. To visualise this I took a series on indoor shots at medium (1.8m ) and CFWA distances with the 8-15 and a 7-14 rectlinear. What we are covering here is reach - a rectilinear has quite different look to a fisheye as we will see and I'm not claiming the rectilinear and fisheye lenses are interchangeable for all subjects. First up shots taken through a standard door (about 2.1m high) from a distance of 1.8m. This is at 7mm/8mm, you can see the door is rendered about the same size even though the field of view in frame is much wider due to barrel distortion of the fisheye. Next up zoomed in to 14/15mm. You can see again the door frame is about same size in each shot - this time with similar angle of view. Next some CFWA style images with the bag about 220mm from the sensor at 8/7mm, You can see the bag is rendered larger although the field of view is much wider in the fisheye: Now with the lens zoomed in, this is about the close focus limit for the 7-14, the fisheye can go a lot closer though yielding larger subject size. Again you see the subject rendered significantly larger with the fisheye and actually covers a smaller field - 110mm for the fisheye and 160mm for the rectilinear lens. This means the 8-15 replaces my 8mm fisheye and my 7-14mm Panasonic lens. The distant frames show what you might expect when for example trying to shoot sharks and other large animals where you can't quite get close enough with just the fisheye and the second set of images shows what you might achieve in CFWA shots and shows the advantage of using the fisheye. The door shows how the barrel distortion is reduced middle of the frame but is makes the door look fatter - this is the fisheye effect which brings your chosen subject, be it a shark or sea fan forward in the frame and more prominent. It looks like this will be a very flexible combination and means I can effectively travel with this setup and just the one lens and dome if I'm expecting to shoot large pelagics as well as reefscape shots and CFWA. and perhaps just add a macro lens/port. I'm using this on m43 olympus and you can do similar with APS-C and Tokina 10-17, full frame however needs the new Fisheye Conversion port. I picked up the lens and N85-120 adapter locally just need to find a 140mm dome and 35mm extension before my next trip.😃

There was a post asking a similar question possibly for a similar port a few weeks back, The response was that the port now comes with a blanking plug and there are instructions for installing it. I found what seems to be a universal instruction set for various focus knobs and their installation - this is for extension rings. It should be easy to work out if it applies to your port if you have one. https://www.panoceanphoto.com/factsheets/NA22131_Focus Knob Bedienungsanleitung Nauticam-en.pdf

This is linked to readout speed and while review is not specific there is no mention of a sensor changeand I think burst rate is the same.

Hi Wolfgang, Perhaps you could also link to the Canon 8-15 adapter to use the focus gear on m43?

From DP review: "Beyond this, the handling of the camera is almost identical to that of the original camera. We say 'almost' because OMDS has changed the camera's command dial to one with a rubbery coating. These offer an improved tactile feel and also make the camera a little easier to operate when using gloves." which sounds promising. The AF of the EM-1 II was indeed a big step up and the OM-1 is a bit better again. It does depend on the lens in use, The Panasonic 30mm macro for example is snappier than the olympus 60mm. I've not tried it in black water but the EM-1 II locked onto mating Mandarin fish at dusk 'without using a focus light using the 12-40 zoom. The light was really quite dim.

OM Systems has announced the OM-1 MkII. It's a evolution rather than revolution it seems and the main upgrade is more RAM to enhance computational photography. They talk about improved AF, C-AF plus tracking, human detection mode and improved subject tracking plus upgraded image stabilisation. It is now branded OM-System rather than Olympus. For UW photgraphy one new item which might be worth trying out is the built-in graduated ND filter function which might help out with split shots - how well it does depends on how they implement the setup I would guess and how quickly it can take the required frames, flash recycle times could be an issue. It also is said to use the same body withonly a change to to mode dial giving it a rubberised coating which may bode well for using the same housing? I'm wondering if part of the motivation releasing a new model 2 years out might have been the need to stop using Olympus branding? An initial review is up online here: https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/om-system-om-1-mark-ii-initial-review Also for UW shooters there is a new 9-18mm lens as well, could be a compact rectilinear option, don't see any details on what has changed in it though. The old one wasn't the sharpest knife in the drawer.

Guys, it is not the vacuum - pulling more vacuum and diving deeper are exactly the same thing, all that matters is the differential pressure. Slightly less air in the housing doesn't mean a thing. Do you want to do 100 dives without using vacuum to attempt to eliminate it as an issue - that's what would be required. There's no mechanism that vacuum impacts apart from buttons and diving deeper has the same impact. You are assuming that because the shutter works it can't be a button problem _ I would suggest that you should never assume. If you you are going to solve a problem like this you need to systematic about trying to repeat the problem. I would suggest going through and trying each button in turn to see if it stops the flash firing. If the button stops the shutter releasing it's not the problem logically as the shutter works when this issue appears. Once you've done that it is ruled out or you have a potential cause. I agree the contacts look good, but the experience is they are unreliable and I can see why this might be the case. Just to confirm that you routinely test fire before every dive to confirm that the flash fires. You say you do this at home - do you do on the boat? I would suggest developing a routine to test fire strobes before you jump and before you submerge. You said that the board of the UWT trigger was replaced, did you also replace the hotshoe cable with it? Another thing to check - can you twist the hotshoe connector in the hotshoe. I have little mini flashes for my olympus cameras and one of them allowed the connector to twist in the shoe, so it would lose contact sometimes. I marked that one and don't use it in the housing any more. That should of course stop it working till re-inserted but worth checking. I didn't realise Sony used a system like that for hotshoe communication to me that would go on the "Con" list for using in an UW housing. Seems like a problem waiting to happen.

The RAW file is the same it's just closer to ideal if you get it right in camera as the IP program will generally use those settings as a preset to show a starting point. Flash though is different to ambient light and far as I am aware the default for the camera is to assume flash light is 5500K which generally works reasonably well as long as flash light dominates. It is generally better to do your processing in 16 bit as well as it is less likely to pixelate if the adjustments are more extreme. Where manual WB makes a difference is in video it's kind of like getting it very close in camera as each frame is not like a raw frame for many cameras, it's more like a JPEG and the latitude for adjustment is limited compared to what you are used to in raw shooting.

Ideally check the dimension of the 110 port from someone that owns one first it should be about 119-120 from inside of glass to end of lugs.

You might be able to use a 50mm extension with what you have now for 80mm macro, as I understand it the lengths are additive, so 30+32+50 = 112mm. For example the inside of the glass on my N85 macro port 45 is pretty close to 45mm from the flange as measured with a ruler. Luckily with the olympus the 30mm Pany and the Oly 12-40 are both very quick to focus - compared to the 60mm macro I use the most. These days the 12-40 is as close as I get to multi purpose, I'm either macro diving or I'm not.

Yes the impact of the diopters are different when you are not focusing down at 1:1, possibly some focus breathing going on and the diopter works better with longer focal length. But it still won't provide more magnification than with the lens alone. I'm not clear though you said you had vignetting using the CMCs with your current port, are you not getting vignetting on land with your current setup or are you using a different combination here? I have actually played around with the Panasonic 30mm macro on my Olympus setup when I wanted slightly wider view for weedies etc around home, but ended up drifting back to the 12-40 olympus lens, which can achieve 0.3x, as I could achieve 95% of the same results plus had better wide views . The small stuff was just too small for the 30mm for my usage and always somewhere were you couldn't get in close enough with various sponges etc in the way, or the subject was mobile and would leave. I rarely use it these days.