humu9679

Aww man, that’s no fun. I’ve come to appreciate Stix floats because of their flexibility. they’re also durable, though they look like cheap pool floats in photographs. The large floats (which are tiny) displace 82g and the jumbos displace 181g each. You can mix or match to suit your needs, even on the fly. I’m curious how Marelux' Flexibuoy is catching on? https://www.marelux.co/collections/flexibuoy

I would put it on a bayonet mount when I’m entering, and use any manner of pouches, fanny packs, etc, when it’s not mounted. I used a fanny pack for the WWL-1 and that worked okay.

@pdxDiver nice frames!

It seems that the MFO-1 adds just a little magnification and improved edge-to-edge sharpness. So … the question is how much you value that over the bare lens, which would factor into my decision to carry it at all. It’s probably a good to have the MFO-3 on a flip though. I’m also not He Man enough to use a double flip.

Aloha and welcome @Evan Johnston !

If memory serves, both extend when changing focal lengths, so that’s a consideration. Above water I really did like the slower Canon 24-105, mostly for its portability, handling and close focusing. Sigma just came out with a 20-200, which has 1:2 close-focusing ability, but again, an extending lens barrel when zooming (L and E mount). Here are specs on the old 24-105mm f/4-7.1: https://www.dpreview.com/products/canon/lenses/canon_rf_24-105_4p0-7p1_is_stm

Nice frames!

Regardless, with a little editing that’s a nice frame!

I had both the L series and the f4-7.1 versions for a brief time when I was contemplating switching back to Canon from Sony and Olympus. I liked the portability of the less heralded lens, despite being slow on the long end. It was also sharp enough. I never used it underwater, though.

I could be wrong, but wouldn’t the power control dial on the right would allow for output changes, even in HSS?

Waterpixel porn. A good thing.

Aloha and welcome @cm_uw

Aloha and welcome @foetusmachine Interesting name. I’m working up on giving up a kidney to get more gear. Just saying.

Beautiful site Ruud!

A third vote for the extension release, a must-have.

Aloha and welcome Glenn! Your 501c is a noble cause. I would think you’d just take a videography course - shooting, then editing. The photo courses might just update what you already know with photography, e.g., shutter speeds and ASA, ahem ISO. The old AE-1 was a huge best seller (my first camera) but it was not an easy camera to use manually. I’d take an FTb any day.

@Babydiver It appears you can physically stack the MFO-1 and CMCs - but whether it works will require some testing.

Aloha and welcome @Tim Clark

Aloha and welcome @Chris Nobes

@bghazzal has a great tutorial on the site here: https://waterpixels.net/articles/articles_technique/afterhours-magic-ambient-light-video-workflow-for-action-cameras-r161/ This is a great piece on getting better control of your color balance versus having the camera figure out everything, which often fails to capture things we envision. If you’re happy with the automation, maybe that’s the way to go. I think the frame in the lower left looks best to my eye. To sum up the tutorial: shoot in log or a “flat” mode. Use good quality filters to get back the range of color you would have shooting in bright sunlight above water. And understand this will not make video that looks good straight out of camera ready for social media.

I did have an HF-1 in my hands briefly to try out HSS with my UWT trigger a couple of years ago. And we know now how that was going to turn out. Only after looking more closely at a solution for my Sony’s sync speed issues did it become clear that each manufacturer creates its own mating protocols, etc. (some of us are to the left of bell curve). Anyhow, it’s also clear that trying to create protocols for TTL creates more complexity which can be tackled at a later date. As Chris suggests, if you can get a 1/400th of a second sync speed with your current kit, I think I’d take the point and remain undefeated in the table.

Aloha and welcome @Wiggy9798 !

That’s super, Ben! We are all now acolytes and will dutifully spread The Gospel.

Aloha and warm welcome @martin.strandbygaard !

Agreed, the dark band is likely a sync issue. I’m HSS curious, too, and I’m slowwwwly working my way towards that as I have an UWT trigger and a slow-synching A7c and A6400s. I’m about to pull the trigger for Retras. Inon has been too slow to the game. And I wouldn’t mind the HF-1 but would have to change triggers. How these triggers talk to strobes, and vice versa, seems a programming issue. Or a co-branding issue. Or a licensing issue. Or a money issue. Maybe all four? This falls into the Stuff That’s Good to Know, which we can switch off if it’s too painful to learn.