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vkalia

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Everything posted by vkalia

  1. Thank you all for the overwhelming response. I wasn’t exaggerating when i said that i dont have much in the way of natural creative talent and it is all learned. The biggest watershed moment for me was indeed understanding the difference between “making” an image vs taking one, as @humu9679 said. “Making” implies you can work at it, instead of just seeing something magical. And yes, digital certainly has helped there. For all that people used to make fun of chimping, it was a great way to review shots, get instant feedback and improve. Atleast for me. And not having to worry about being limited to 24 photos a dive certainly is a big plus! 🙂 One thing that has helped me a lot if actually getting into street photography - it’s shaken me a little out of my usual way of looking at a scene by forcing me to look for details and find something interesting in the mundane. I am not particularly good at it, but find the process refreshing. Would love to hear from others about how they approach their picture taking as well - including your article on neutral space, @TimG. Cheers!
  2. Nice! I have a system of signals with my wife already, but some of the tips here are very handy. Thank you.
  3. Yeah, it’s a challenge for sure. Most of the time, even with my wife hanging around and modeling for me, i dont get as much time on a subject as i would prefer. Occasionally, if the subject does warrant it, i will find a way to make the time - either go back to the dive site and/or tell the dive guide that i am going to be planted just here and will see them later.
  4. While I am mostly a wildlife/nature photographer, one of the most interesting books on photography that I have read in a very long time is "Magnum Contacts Sheets" - link below (and no, I don't get a commission if you buy it 🙂) https://www.amazon.com/Magnum-Contact-Sheets-Kristen-Lubben/dp/0500292914 This book shows the contact sheets of the photos taken by various Magnum photographers in trying to get their shot. It provides an absolutely fascinating insight into the mindset and creative process followed by some of the best photographers in the world. One of the biggest take-aways for me was the degree to which these photographers "work" the subject, in terms of exhausting various angles, perspectives and compositions. It took a lot of waiting to get the fusiliers aligned just right While this may not be news to some of the old hands here at Wet/Waterpixels, this is something I have rarely seen divers do in the real world, especially those new to underwater photography. Regardless of whether they are carrying a Go Pro, a TGx or a housed system, most photographers I see will swim up to a subject, spend a few seconds composing the image and adjusting their lights, take the shot and then swim off to the next subject. While this may be good for getting clean documentary shots of the subject, the results are generally lacking a little in artistic value. Yes, I did say "artistic value". As the art of underwater photography evolves, well-exposed, sharp photographs of various marine life (documentation) have become pretty much common-place. So how does a photographer evolve his/her images to make them stand out? The next step up from simple documentation is showing behaviour/action - and while this requires the photographer to be alert and technically proficient, there isn't necessarily a lot of creative input here either: the subject does the heavy lifting in terms of making the image. There wasn't much creative input into this image other than the choice of angles - replace the tiger shark with a less interesting fish and this photo would not be very interesting The highest level of photography (IMO) involves creating images where it is the design and composition that makes the image stand out - not merely "look, here is a cool subject". In wildlife, for example, it is much harder to take a great image of an antelope than a lion - similarly, it is much harder to take a "wow" shot of a coral head or some reef fish underwater than a whale shark or manta. You have to spend time thinking about what to include and exclude in the image, how to compose the frame, how to light it, etc. etc. When it comes to artistic design, your first shot is unlikely to be your best shot - atleast not consistently or unless your name starts with "Henri" and ends with "Cartier-Bresson". It takes time to work through the various compositional aspects in order to find the best image - ie, you need to work the subject. If you do, you can be rewarded with images that go well beyond the obvious. I'd like to illustrate what I mean with an example of how I went about taking one of the shots I really like. To set expectations, I have the natural creative talent of a brick and have to take a very methodical approach to taking images. So this process may seem a little plodding to the creative geniuses out there. For the rest of us, perhaps it may be helpful. This was a coral head I came across on a dive during a trip to Raja Ampat: I found the glass fish sheltering under the coral to be quite interesting and got into position, angled my strobes, set the exposure and fired off a shot, resulting in this: Ok, it's a shot showing the coral and the fish. But there really isn't much else to redeem it. It's lacking colour and pop, and there really is no unifying theme to the image other than "here's a bunch of stuff". And most that stuff is adding nothing to the image (and would not, regardless of how great the corner sharpness was 😜). So I decided to get a little closer and see what I got. It took around 10-15 shots from various angles before I found something that looked promising: Ok, now the image has a little more pop and there are no extraneous elements. But it still seems a little haphazard. Hmm, maybe having the glass fish appear more synchronised would help? This led to a few more shots (well, 60+, actually) trying to get the pesky fish to be aligned the way I wanted. Some of them: There were quite a few other variants of the above, with the fish facing one way or another. All were pretty nice but from a design element, there was something lacking - these images were still not giving me a sense or scale of being on an amazing reef in Raja Ampat. While nicer than the earlier images, these were still simple "look, here's some fish" images. So I decided to go a little wider to see if that would help capture the essence of the underwater world a little better. Ok, now this felt better. The blue water on the other side of the coral balanced the glassfish a little more, and gave a greater sense of the reef, and I was quite pleased with the image. But then I started thinking about how all the visual elements were only on one side of the coral whereas the blue water was completely lacking in any point of interest. Some more shooting and gesturing to my dive guide resulted in this: Bonus points to the coral grouper for a serendipitous appearance This (to my eyes, at least) felt like the best photo of the bunch - a good 100+ exposures after the initial image. I could have stopped after the first few images, I could have stopped after 20-30 images but by spending 30+ minutes in this one location, I found a photo that truly appealed to me. Is it perfect? Of course not. There is perspective distortion with the diver that could have been mitigated by having the diver move away from the edges. I'd have also have liked him to be holding a torch. That's a testimony to the fact that despite the time I spent, I could have always worked the subject more. So what's the takeaway here? Pretty simple: too many divers spend their entire dive swimming around, taking a couple of photos here and a couple of photos there. That's perfectly fine when you are starting out and is a good way to hone your technical skills and build a good foundation of documentary images and also action photos. But as your skills evolve, a good way to improve the quality of your images is by becoming more selective. Try to get a few really great shots as opposed to a large number of average ones. And in order to achieve this, shoot fewer subjects - but the subjects that you do shoot, shoot them really well. By that, I don't mean just blindly fire away and hope for the best. Instead, take a deliberate approach to positioning yourself, your perspective and exposure/lighting. Think about different ways you can compose the image. Then review the results, decide what could improve and repeat. Starting thinking like a photographer who happens to be on scuba - as opposed to a scuba diver who has a camera. Sure, this isn't always easy to do: unless you have your own private guide or are diving with a group of photographers, you rarely have the ability to spend as much time as you prefer on a subject. But if your goal is take the best possible images, you will have to find a workaround to that. Most dive centres are generally very receptive to (and slightly dread!) underwater photographers, and are willing to work with them in terms of guides, groups, etc. Make that extra effort and you will find the quality of your images improves significantly. Footnote: the series of images above is not a statement about how awesome the final image is. I like it a lot (and I shoot to please myself), but I have photographer friends who aren't that impressed by it (which is perfectly fine). The goal is to illustrate the approach to working a scene, and hopefully, this sequence illustrates it well. Sometimes, no matter how much you try, the animals don't cooperate. I spent a lot of time working through various compositions till I found one that appealed to me - all it needed was an appropriate subject swimming through at the right location. Despite waiting for almost 30 minutes, I didnt have any luck better than this.
  5. Thanks for those images, @DreiFish. I am glad to see that you can get a relatively large FOV with that focal length. Maybe it is just a matter of perception after coming from the FE, but composing with the 7-14 always felt compressed - looking at your photos, that’s clearly just a matter of getting used to a different focal length. As for corner sharpness - never saw an image which made me think “this would look better if corner sharpness was better”, so that’s a non-issue for me. And your wreck photos only reinforced that - excellent images, all, and never once did my eye stray to the corners to check. 🙂 PS: Love the shot of the people jumping off the boat, especially the goldie leaping out. My golden retriever loves water and will wade into seas, ponds, puddles, etc. but she refuses to jump into water.
  6. Fantastic images - especially enjoyed reading about the creative process behind making those shots!
  7. Nice! The snooted arrow crab definitely looks great - my favorite is the school under the jetty though. Absolutely *love* that image.
  8. I mostly shoot wide angle with a fisheye (Tokina 10-17 for over a decade, and Olympus 8mm for the past 6 years). The Tokina replaced a Sigma 10-20 and i havent looked back since. So from a creativity point of view, “seeing” with a fisheye lens is natural for me and I really like the results I get with it. I recently got a Panasonic 7-14mm lens from a fellow member for an upcoming trip to Egypt for photographing sharks - I made the purchase knowing this was not going to be a lens i would use that much, and that there would be learning curve with getting used to the reduced FOV, but I am kinda surprised by how steep that curve is! I took it out for a test spin recently, to a site I know really well, and didn’t get even a single keeper. That FOV simply isnt “natural” for me. Can i request people to post some of their shots here? Preferably reef shots - big fish shots are somewhat obvious. I know there is a wealth of images online, but it would be helpful to have a bunch in a single place and would help me “see” better how other are composing with this lens. TIA!
  9. Fair point, and my apologies if i came across as being dismissive. That was not my intent. I do find the content very educational as well (although it does boost my GAS significantly and make me feel that without that one additional bit of kit, i wont be able to take a photo worth a damn! 🙂) PS: thanks for the kind words about the image
  10. This ^^^ I’ve been using Inon strobes since 2005 - except for a brief (and regrettable dalliance with Sea&Sea in 2019 that i would much rather forget), and recently switched to Supe D-Pros. After a point, I think all strobes have sufficient power - even the Inons were bright enough to let me get good starbursts, etc in shots like this: I did recently switch to Supe D-Pros because their battery life is fantastic (being able to go a couple of days of shooting without needing to recharge is aces in my book), their significantly wider beam coverage and the fast re-charge. I dont think i have ever gone above 60-70% on power there (and rarely have i used 100% even on the Inons), TBH, so i am not sure what more power would get me - it certainly wouldn’t let me shoot stuff further away. I have been following this thread with interest (because i like learning about the technicalities of gear) but am also a little perplexed about things that don’t really matter much in the real world (eg, minor differences in center vs peripheral brightness). It’s certainly useful to know these things and i appreciate the rigor that is going into the analysis - but does this really help with decision making on a buy/no-buy decision?
  11. MFT 30mm macro lens
  12. I can’t speak for your housing but i have gotten a few drops into mine by not being carefully about ensuring that the housing was fully dry before i opened it. From what you describe, that is *likely* the case here, but you may want to test by submerging the housing (sans camera) in a rinse tank for a while to be safe. As for how to dry it: If you are in Egypt now, leave it out in the open in the shade. Should dry pretty fast. Or see if the center has a powered blower that you can use to blast the moisture off too. Depending on where the moisture is, you can also open and close the housing in a way that water doesnt go in (I have done it a couple of times when i needed to change a battery and didnt have the ability to dry the housing entirely. It helps to have a buddy assist with this). Good luck!
  13. vkalia

    Batfish in space

    Not digitally altered - only standard tonal/color corrections made
  14. My theory is that a more expensive camera feels disgusted when placed in a cheap housing - and so to ensure smooth functioning, housing manufacturers price their housings proportionally to the camera that goes in them. That’s the only reason i can think for such a big gap between various housings which require (more or less) the same amount of work to make. 🙂
  15. I’ve flooded my Aquatica 3 times - each time it was my fault and each time the camera was toast (although once i managed to save my lens by doing a faster-than-recommended ascent). The last time, i had a lovely manta sighting 15 min into the dive with a flooded camera. Stupid manta. Who wanted to photograph it anyway?
  16. Ugh. That really does suck. That’s $500-1000 in “fees” right there. Thanks for the clarification, folks. Is making me re-think the trip and whether to pivot to Cocos instead.
  17. This would be my preferred option. That’s an excellent FE lens, and the whole system is a lot easier to pack and carry for travel (I put the entire setup in a medium sized Lowepro camera shoulder bag) - that ease of travelling is why i went with MFT over APS-C. And shooting with a fisheye is… *chef’s kiss*. My Tokina 10-17 replaced my Sigma 10-20 about 15 years ago and i have never looked back. With my MFT system, i only picked up a rectilinear wide angle for one specific trip: After that, i will go back to my fisheye. Yes, they are a little more finicky to use - but the shots that you get with them are absolutely fantastic. HOWEVER - as mentioned earlier, this is for diving. For snorkeling, I’d go with something smaller/lower drag - I’d hate to drag a full housed system with 2 strobes around on the surface. But the question you want to ask yourself is - do you see yourself just staying with snorkeling? Because if you get hooked to u/w photos, scuba is the next logical step and then your camera decision would be different. Re price - as a fellow wildlife photographer myself, i can only say that i have never regretted buying what i needed (with some headroom to spare), as opposed to making compromises in the gear to save some money.
  18. What’s this about? I am planning a group trip to Socorros in June, and read something similar on the Nautilus website too, about photographers being harassed for their gear at customs on the way in. Edit - I googled this. Am surprised this exists in this day and age. And it is vexing, especially if they are starting to do this in Mexico airport as well, which is where we will be flying in. Is this mainly for folks with big-ass housings, multiple cameras and huge dome ports? Or are even folks with a single camera/housing in a backpack getting busted? I carry my entire rig in a medium sized Lowepro backpack.
  19. *sigh* I just bought a pair of Supe D-Pros last month and now i become aware of the Marelux. Still - the Supes are all the strobe i need, so it isnt the end of the world.
  20. Thanks to @Troporobo for a fast transaction on a port and lens, and getting it to my friend in time so that he could mule it back for me.
  21. I’ve been to Raja 4 times (twice on a liveaboard, twice on land) and I strongly recommend Papua Explorers (just got back from taking a group there last month). Lovely cottages overlooking the water, quite reasonably priced for what they offer, excellent dive guides and a really, really customer-oriented team.
  22. I’d buy that, for sure. For everything except nature, i have gone from carrying 2 DSLR bodies with vertical grips and 17-40/4, 24-105/4 and 70-200/4 IS to a Fuji XT body, a 16/1.4 a 23/1.4 and one of the following three: a 35/1.4, a 16-80/4 or a 70-300. I find the minimalist nature of the gear works better in terms of helping me “see” photo ops. Am thinking of getting a Ricoh GR series soon - but something like the above, but with a 24-70 focal range and a fast-ish lens would be absolutely amazing as a general daily-carry camera (right now, for me that’s a Fuji body with a 28mm lens).
  23. Fair - we all have our own preferences (and i didnt mean to imply MFT has no merits - i mean, i still use it myself, after all). Eg, for land based used, i actually prefer slightly larger bodies as they fit my hands better, so the compact size of OM doesnt really add a lot of value, whereas greater ability to crop does. For land-based, I still prefer Canon or Fuji, depending on what i am shooting. As an aside, i have been tempted to move from the Canon 500/4 to something lighter. Now that i am in my 50s, schlepping that big monster around isnt as much fun as it used to be. 🙂 I just picked up a R7 and a RF 200-800 for hand-held bird photography - i am gobsmacked by how good the IS and low noise capabilities of that setup are. Until a few years ago, i would laughed at the idea of shooting with a f9 lens at 800mm. Yet here we are.
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