Giancarlo M.

Hi everyone, In April 2027 I'm going to the Galapagos on a liveaboard and I'd like to better understand the situation regarding the use of lights and flash, because I've received two answers that contradict each other. Galápagos National Park (written reply from the Directorate): no flash and no continuous artificial lighting for photos and video, both on land and underwater. The ban applies regardless of the type, number, intensity or duration of the lights, and keeping a light on continuously is not an exception. Boat operator: the ban only strobes (flashing lights). Continuous lights, would be allowed as long as they stay on without flashing and the distance indicated by the naturalist guide is respected. The two versions are not compatible, so I'd like to ask those who have been recently (last 1-2 years): On your boat/cruise, were you able to use video lights or strobes for photos and video? With what limits? Was the ban strictly enforced by the guide or by the Park (checks, warnings)? If lights were banned, how did you work in natural light? Setup, filters, settings, which subjects work best? Did you notice differences between sites (Darwin and Wolf, Roca Redonda, Isabela, Fernandina...)? Thanks to anyone willing to share their experience!

If you already have the 105 plus the mfo-3, that's already an excellent setup, but since you're shooting with a Nikon system, the 60 AF-S is absolutely perfect for BW. As others have already mentioned, the 60mm setup will be more compact, easier to handle underwater, and simpler for managing your strobes. The 105 + mfo-3 is bulkier, plus the optical quality of the 60mm is remarkable. My advice is to go with this latter setup if you can

Depth is a relative and non-essential factor; instead, you need to study the seafloor topography of the area where you plan to dive. The 75 cm arm is unnecessary. Dive lights must be securely fastened to the buoy line, using one of the many available solutions. Furthermore, for your safety, it is crucial to check the currents at the dive site: it is easy to get lost if there is a current, especially when you are focused on taking photos after finding a subject. The buoy must be highly visible, even if a skipper is following you. Always carry backup lights with you. Overly powerful lights are not necessarily important: 5000-7000 lumens are more than enough. Finally, make sure the battery life is sufficient to last the entire dive.

Shoot in AF-C mode instead of AF-S—that will definitely work better. The MF-O 1 helps reduce the minimum focusing distance and improves the quality of your lens; personally, I haven’t noticed any improvement in autofocus. One more thing: the 90mm struggles more to focus in low light; a small flashlight might help.

Nice project! Unfortunately, I have two original Nauticam blocks, but they're too thick and don't fit the 8-15 or your design. For now, I've cut a piece of rubber to size and it's working, even if it sometimes shifts a little. It would be great if you could recreate that piece in 3D as well; everyone would really appreciate it

Quick heads-up for Sony + Metabones + Canon 8-15mm users: I found this very interesting model. Please note: the locking mechanism is missing https://makerworld.com/it/models/778776-canon-8-15-zoom-gear

I am using them on the AOI UIS-P1, those batteries with 25A discharge help the strobe recharge quickly. Be careful, the link you provided is for a different Xtar model. The ones I sent you are 25A, which are the recommended ones. The other model does not specify the A rating, but it is usually lower, 8 or 10A, so you need to check carefully.

I recommend Xtar batteries. I've been using them for years now and have never had any problems. They are also recommended by Backscatter itself. But be careful, you have to buy the 25A ones. https://www.akkuteile.de/en/lithium-ionen-battery/protected/size-21700/xtar-21700-hp-25a-ampere-5000mah-3-6v-3-7v-li-ion-battery-electronically-protected_100644_3403

It is the same trigger as the Backscatter for the HF-1.

I am also a happy owner of the latest AOI P1s. I used them on my last two trips, one month in Papua New Guinea for wide-angle photos and in Lembeh in black water. I immediately found them very good, with excellent light coverage, uniform light, and exceptional battery life. In black water, I really appreciated the low-power burst mode. The batteries you need to use with this strobe must have a 25A discharge (I am using 21700 Xtar 25A batteries). You can use other batteries, but the performance will be different. I also used TTL and HSS mode and was impressed. I used their trigger on my Sony. I've always been skeptical of TTL mode with fiber optics, but AOI has done an incredible job; it works very well.

I am selling a pair of MF-2 mini backscatter flash, in excellent condition, with 6 months remaining on the Fotosub-shop warranty. Complete with original box and original accessories, including 4 21700 batteries. Pickup in Pero (MI) area possible, shipping to be agreed upon (Italy and Europe, excluding the UK). I prefer to sell the pair 700,00 €, otherwise I will sell a single unit for €370,00 No haggling or lowball offers, please. I am not negotiating the price.

I recently received the new AOI UCS-Q1i strobes to replace my MF-2s, and I was intrigued by the TTL function for Sony. I've never been a fan of TTL, and I've always shot manually with my strobes, but this time I was convinced, as I had valid evidence that the larger version of this strobe works very well in TTL mode. Unfortunately, I have to wait another month before I leave, but I'll take them with me on my next trip and then give you a more complete report. For now, I'll leave you with this file, where I shot from f22 to f2.8 in TTL macro mode. Sony A1 camera, 90 macro, and TTL AOI trigger. I find them interesting and can't wait to get back in the water!