Tobyone

Has anyone had any experience with this monitor. I am reluctant to believe any of the Youtube people.

Just a follow up on his project. Tested and it worked as expected. Except the double tape attaching the weight to the dome shade came loose in the water. I used 4 3mm machine bolts to attach GoPro holder to dome shade for a positive fix. The tape(Gorilla double sided mounting tape) work well in no weight situations, but not to hold 500 grams.

The flat top was down(on the bed).

Reef Photo has connections with a machine shop that can custom make these. Approx. $ 500.

The bungee retainers needed support. I could modify angles or increase the suport angle in aura. It was printed top down. V5 needed less support.

1 hour ago, Fabian said:

Would be amazing if we could get something like this as well for other port sizes (e.g.140mm, 230mm) 😇

Just have to measure and scale slicer file.

Will do that. I would expand the circumference about 1.5mm from the original slice. The last print fit a little tight at the top.It could be different on other printers or slicer. I sliced using Cura with tree supports. Printed on Reality CR10 V2

V5_180 dome cover nauticam .stl

Printed with TPU. Never liked the idea of neoprene covers for domes. The hard covers hold on very well. I am not sure how to get proven stauts, but they work for my needs.

Semi hard covers for Nautical 180 Ports. The blueV2 version uses less bungee to hold cover in place. The slots are to accommodate GoPro mounts. A V3 cover has more robust bungee receptacles(not shown).

Travel with a companion that travels light. Let them carry some of the gear. This works with my girlfriend.

Also I pack some of my housings in hard cases and check. I always use locks and tie wraps to seal. If you bag comes out with any tampering you will know. Report immediately. Use bright colored hard cases are harder to hide for cameras and other personnel. I use orange and yellow. I have also traveled domestically with checked coolers, marked fish. Did not get opened.

From a design standpoint you should try to configure with cylinders. Would have better compression strength. Outside shape and internal(next to arms). You could put groves in to accept tie wraps to hold the halfs together.

Printed Version 1  for a one pound round weight, for dome trim it was more weight than needed. V2 was printed to accommodate 3/4 inch rod. I use stainless for the weight about 62mm long. Both are designed to move weight forward or back to optimize balance point. The funck in the leading edge in V2 is some left over support. I will be happy to share STL files if there is any interest.

Sliced in Cura for cruelty c10 v2. Print logo up with tree supports 10%. Sizing works good for port 45.

Might need to be tweaked for different printers.

Here is an STL for the 67mm cap with a Nautocam Logo. Print with TPU.V2_Nauticam 67mm port cap .stlV2_Nauticam 67mm port cap .stl

Yes. The flexible material allows it to hug the rim. You could play with ID to adjust the tightness.

Have someone 3D print out of TPU. Have a few made. Easily done.  The attached STL file has my name on the cap, but it can be removed(covered up). It fits the 67mm Nauticam port 45.

V3v Port 45 .stl

I am not sure what is up on the MF RF mounts. I ordered one from B&H within a week of the rollout(March 1) and have not gotten it yet. I have contacted Laowa but have not been getting any response.  I do not mind manual focus,I may just go to the Irix Cine 11mm if I get no response within a week. Plus it is interesting there have been no reviews on the manual focus versions of the Laowa 10mm.

On my Fuji APSI use the Laowa 9mm cine lens/manual focus.  I works great in a Seafrog housing with the 6 inch dome. A very minor vignette.  Have not tried with the 8 inch dome, but I am sure the vignette would be gone. Generally zone focus, at f8 it works on most subjects. I also use the 15-45 with the WWL-C.

Link to photos :  

Where is the virtual image focus distance (underwater) on that dome? Try a +2 diopter.

Check these resources .:https://www.hydroflex.com/flat-and-dome-lens-ports

On a 8 inch dome(true hemispherical) the virtual image should be around 10-15 inches in front of dome. The lens needs to be able to focus down to 10 inch to focus on the virtual image.

Placement of the lens as to the dome front is somewhat critical. The Nodal of lens, point should be at the radius point in the dome. 

David,

I have a naomorph 27 mm setup on a fuji aps. I use the Nautical 180 mm with a 55mm n100 to N120 adapter withe the focus knob. I need to  use a +2 diopter to get it to focus 10-14 inch from the film plane(tested dry).  I have not tested in real conditions. Will have a trip at end of month, will get a chance to get some wet tests. Will post as soon as I can footage.

Fantastic lens topside.

After all the calculations, especially considering the glass in front of sensor, I think I am abandoning this project. I would probably have to machine at least 3 mm off to get close to infinity focus, leaving a too thin of a lip. Also considering the Fuji crop factor,I would not be getting the moderate(underwater)wide angle option the 15mm presents.  I will just use for macro with the 80mm and maybe see how the 15 does with closeups.

Thanks for everyones input.

I measured the Nikonos 2 flange which is 32.18 mm.from the lens mount base to the film plate. Being careful not to push the spring plate tensioners back. I measured the distance from the mounted Nikonos adapter to the Fuji XT-3 front of sensor protection glass(There is no bayer filter in Fuji) in the Nautical housing. The distance was 31mm. I have yet to get a depth of this glass to the sensor. Could be .5-2 mm in thickness. So it look like I can shave 1.5 mm and get the lens to focus near infinity.I will test by sliding back the camera on the plate in the housing top side. I have an 80 mm Nikonos Lens to test focus. Before I start removing metal form the adapter.

15 hours ago, Isaac Szabo said:

On my Nauticam A7II housing the distance is 25.97mm. 

 

However, it should be noted that in at least some cases the Nauticam adapter does not provide infinity focus with some of the Nikonos lenses. It could be that the Nauticam adapter is a tad too thick or that some of the Nauticam housings hold the camera a tad too far from the port mount. Either way some users have had to modify their housings to bring the camera a tad closer to the adapter in order to achieve infinity focus. So to ensure success the first time around you might make your adapter slightly thinner (perhaps 0.5mm) than the Nauticam dimensions indicate. Here's a link to a wetpixel thread on the subject. 

Thanks Issac,

I will  do some calculations and see if I can match the two cameras sensor distances

The difference between the Fuji Mount and the Sony E is .3mm. 18 on the Sony, 17.7 on Fuji.  Nikonos focal flange is 28mm.

If the adapter to sensor distance is the same from the Sony to the Fuji, I would have to shave .3mm. I do not have the Sony camera and housing available to measure. Reluctant to put a mic directly on the Fuji  sensor to measure.

Does anyone have the distance for the A7 camera flange to the port seat on the NA-A7 housing.

I am trying to convert the NA-A7 Nikonos adapter for the Fuji Nauticam housing.

I need to figure how much I need to reduce the flange distance of the Adaprter.

The lens work but I need to reduce the flange distance to get it to focus at infinity.

It will focus with the adapter but acts like an extension.