Architeuthis

I changed from Oly EM1II to Sony A7R5 about a year ago and do not regret it, I really enjoy the camera... The big pluses, to my experience, are the 14-bit raw files for postprocessing (the sensor delivers data that are really worth to be digitized at 14 bit, it is not just a matter of the A/D converter) and the 61 M-pixels (for cropping)... C-AF&tracking on the EM1II was already o.k, but is better now on A7R5. In addition, subject recognition (mostly eyes) works very well sometimes, but not always. A7R5 AF is probably the best available today, but a camera with perfect AF still has to be built... The big disadvantage of FF vs MFT is the lens choice and size (both WA and macro). The lens choice for A7R5 is o.k., but not superb as it is for MFT. An example: I am currently in Providencia/Columbia with Lisi, my wife. The main subject here are Carribean reef sharks, that come quite close to photographers. I use Sony 28-60mm/WACP-C with A7R5, she uses Tokina 10-17mm/DP100 with 1x glassless adapter. We both have 2x Z330. Very similar range of AOVs, but her rig is substantially smaller (it is like a childrens's rig compared to a rig for adults 😋...). I envy her a little during transportation, but not so when it comes to postprocessing in LR... Another example: EM1II with Pana 45mm macro (45mm is the equivalent lens to the Sony 90mm macro, not the (better) Zuiko 60mm) gives similar results compared to A7R5/Sony 90mm/SMC-1. The EM1II/45mm rig is very small and handy, while the A7R5/Sony 90mm/SMC-1 is a monstrum. When I say comparable results, I mean just the size of a critter at 1:1 (=1:2 for FF) that you can photograph to fill the frame. The sharpness and brilliance of FF is clearly better compared to MFT... But here are other examples also: I was using the Canon 8-15mm with 140mm dome and 1x glassless adapter with EM1II. I use the same lens with same dome on A7R5 now and the rig sizes are pretty the same, but the AOVs are very different (too much for the reef sharks here, they do not come close enough. I could have left the Canon 8-15mm and the 140mm dome at home, but who knows for sure in advance?)... For normal range I used Zuiko 12-40mm with 170mm dome on EM1II. Now I use Sony 20-70mm with 170mm, what gives similar sized (but already substantially large) rigs, but better zoom range with Sony 20-70mm (and even better IQ compared to the already brilliant Zuiko 12-40mm) => At the end I believe that there is no advantage without disadvantage and vice versa...☺️ Wolfgang

I rememeber you have the manual s-Turtle version. Can you confirm that it is possible with this version to switch between 1st and 2nd curtain via camera menue during the dive? Wolfgang

I am now on Providencia Island in Columbia and the story was more complicated as expected: I wasted two days of diving with strobes not working as they should... The reason is that the switching between 1st and 2nd curtain via camera is only possible, when the trigger and flashes are set to TTL, i.e. The WL flash mode on Sony A7R5 is set to "ON". When the trigger is set to work manually, as I want it to be (A7R5 WL flash mode to "OFF"), the 1st and 2nd curtain can only be set via the software on the PC. I have both Nauticam and s-Turtle2 smart triggers here, so I set s-Turtle to 2nd curtain and will use Nauticam or s-Turtle, depending on what I want... Balazs gave good advice during the entire process. He writes that the manual version of s-Turtle is able to switch 1st vs. 2nd curtain during the dive and he will exchange my trigger for the manual version, when I am once back... Wolfgang

I have Weefine 3400 focuslight and the red light is very useful for nightdives (during the day I do not use any focus light in most cases). At the beginning of the nightdive, I use the normal white light and as soon as I see a critter, I switch to red for making the photo. Focus is more difficult with red light, but most critters do not see the red light... Wolfgang

The Metabones adapter is the glasless 1x smart adapter (not the 0.71x speedbooster that is recommended by Nauticam)?

I just now had a videoconference with Balacz from Turtle and the problem is solved... The problem was that one needs to turn "OFF" the Wireless Flash mode in the A7R5's menue (Exposure/Color>Flash>4. Wireless Flash "OFF"). This function was ON in my camera... THEN one can select all different flash modes as listed above, also "Rear Sync" , from the A7R5's menue (Exposure/Color>Flash>1. Flash Mode "Rear Sync, Slow, etc..." (I have now assigned the "C4" custom button to "Exposure/Color>Flash>1. Flash Mode", in order to be able to switch between 1st and 2nd curtain just during the dive and from the housing, without having to take the trigger out of the housing and setting the curtain sync via the laptop...) This is really great service by Turtle triggers, I only can recommend this company...👍 Wolfgang

I have new information from Balzs Kurz from Turtle: he writes that it is possible to switch between 1st and 2nd curtain via the camera menue (and hence UW): "Dear Wolfgang, I see that the information did not go through perfectly. So, I mentioned MANUAL flash mode. This mode is the WL mode, as SONY does not recognize such a mode as manual flash mode. The settings for WL mode can be done here: If WL mode is turned off, then "TTL" mode is activated. In this mode, everything can be adjusted from the camera, like first curtain, second curtain... In the setup software you just need to choose the TTL characteristic. I hope these information are better and you can got a complete picture. 🙂 Regards Balazs" => By setting menue point 5. to the appropriate flash it should be possible to switch between 1st and 2nd curtain via the camera menue. I guess the operation of the strobe, whether manual or TTL, is then selected directly on the strobe... => Was somebody able to confirm that it works with A7R5 (i.e. selecting between 1st and 2nd curtain in manual (and TTL) flash mode during the dive via the camera menue? Wolfgang

There is an interesting tread on Scubaboard, where Nicolas Remy posted the link to his review, that I posted above: https://scubaboard.com/community/threads/nauticam-fisheye-conversion-port-detailed-review.643996/ I asked him there about the f/13 issue and he writes that the DOF is very shallow with FCP-1, compared to e.g. WACP (like Alex he prefers to use FCP-1 at f/13, but uses wider apertures with e.g. WACP-1). He thinks that f/13 on FCP-1 compares to f/7.1 - f/8 on WACP-1 with respect to DOF and with WACP-1 he closes aperture only more (e.g. to f/13) when he needs to do so because of too much light available... => It seems to me that FCP-1 is not a better substitute and complete replacement of WACPs. FCP is just more versatile as it covers a longer and wider range, but WACPs allow to collect more light (in case it is necessary). This goes at the cost of AOV (but when using a fisheye, as Canon 8-15mm, that provides AOV comparable to FCP, I seldom use apertures so small as f/13 - at lower light, the FE (without zoom in possibility) may be the better choice)...

Update on flash settings of s-Turtle2 Smart with Sony A7R5, based on EMails with Balazs Kurucz from Turtle: #1.: For Mac users, the software to program the s-Turtle 2 Smart flash trigger is NOT available via the Turtle homepage (as is the windows software), but instead can by downloaded from the Apple "app store". #2.: 1st or 2nd curtain flash sync. (in manual mode) is selected via menue point 6. ("WL" for wireless, i.e. glassfiber). => Hence, I think, one cannot select between 1st and 2nd curtain by switching the flash sync mode in the camera menue. Instead one has to take the flash trigger out of the housing and program which curtain to use via the software (One still can use the A7R5s menue, and a custom button assigned to flash modes, to switch the flash On/Off, but not for selection of the curtain, as on the surface)... #3.: Manual flash power vs. TTL flash is NOT selected in the software, but just by selecting "manual" or "TTL" directly on the flash... #3.: Balacz recommends to set in the program the "WL strobe power" (also menue point 6.) to 1/32 or 1/16, in case poor quality optical cables are used (I guess these are single core cables; I have multicore fiberes and so far 1/128 works fine (but I just was, so far, just using manual, not TTL))...

Is it known, BTW, how these Nauticam water contact optics (WWL/WACP/FCP) work? Do they produce a small virtual image that is photographed by the lens attached to the camera, just alike domeports do, but the image is smaller and thereby WA is created from normal focal length? Or are the lenses in the dome acting as additional optics, alike a converter that is attached to the front of a lens, that convert the regular normal range lens to a WA fisheye lens, built to be immersed in water (like the old Nikonos lenses)?? (I thInk this is how Nauticam gives the impression these ports work, but I have not seen a detailed description yet)...

When you compare the range of DOF, at given aperture (e.g. f/13) at given focal length of the lens (e.g. 28mm), between FCP-1, WACP-1 (and comparable rectilinear lens behind dome) - is the same to be expected? => I do not think so, at least when one compares FCP-1 (170° AOV @28mm) with WACP (130° AOV @28mm). The effective aperture values of the entire system (lens+water contact optics) are always smaller than the one set at the lens, since the f-value is a pure number without dimensions (f-value = focal length (mm)/aperture diameter (mm)) and when focal length is reduced, the f-value gets smaller, accordingly (more so with FCP-1 than with WACP). DOF will change accordingly... Wolfgang

Here is another interesting review on the FCP-1 by Nicolas Remy: https://theunderwaterclub.com/nauticam-fisheye-conversion-port-fcp-field-review/?utm_source=scubaboard.com&utm_medium=community&utm_campaign=scubaboard-FCP-review

This Google search does not look good...😐 It seems there is no real statistics, summarizing all events. This may be due to the fact that shark organizations do only include "unprovoked" attacks in their statistics and these "feeding/baiting" spectacles can certainly not regarded as "unprovoked"... Wolfgang

I have here a Sony A7R5 that I use in manual mode with two Inon Z330s and the Nauticam manual trigger in front curtain sync. (works reliable up to 1/200s in my hands)... Now I want to exploit the flash modes/possibilities better (and also use my s-Turtle2 smart trigger, that I have bought as a spare), e.g. switch from front-curtain to rear-curtain, test TTL for sharks and eventually use HSS with the Backscatter MF2 (that I also have)... I have assigned the different flash modes to the "C4" button on my Nauticam housing, so that I can switch between different available modes, listed below, UW. In the A7R5 manual I read that the following flash modes are available. The expressions in the menue are a little flowery and I can not clearly correlate them to specific physical modes: Flash Off: The flash does not operate. (o.k., at least this is clear) Autoflash: The flash works in dark environments or when shooting towards bright light. Fill-flash: The flash works every time you trigger the shutter. Slow Sync.: The flash works every time you trigger the shutter. Slow sync shooting allows you to shoot a clear image of both the subject and the background by slowing the shutter speed. (this flash mode in connection with the Nauticam trigger produces front-curtain sync. with manual flash settings) Rear Sync.: The flash works right before the exposure is completed every time you trigger the shutter. Rear sync shooting allows you to shoot a natural image of the trail of a moving subject such as a moving car or a walking person. When using the s-Turtle2 smart trigger could I: #1.: toggle between Flash Off/front-curtain (manual flash mode)/rear-curtain (manual flash mode) by toggling between "Flash Off"/"Slow Sync"/"Rear Sync" modes? #2.: When selecting TTL flash exposure instead of manual setting at the Z330s, could I produce the same Off/front-curtain/rear-curtain modes by toggling as in #1? #3.: When using HSS with Backscatter MF2, how do I have to set the A7R5 flash mode and the s-turtle2 smart trigger? #4.: Finally, what is the difference between "Autoflash"/"Fill-Flash"/"Slow Sync"? I assume this is all TTL flash exposure with front-curtain, but the automatic is slightly different for different light conditions?? Thanks, Wolfgang P.S.: I have send a similar message to Turtle and will keep this tread updated in case I get a response...

Is there a link, where the attacks and fatalities at Tiger Beach have been documented? I have read in the (Austrian) newspapers only about one fatality: it was a lawyer from Vienna, bitten in his leg and bleeded to death, but this was quite years ago?

Another tragedy, it seems there is indeed one diver missing: https://taucher.net/diveinside-sinking_of_the_sea_legend_in_the_red_sea-kaz9193 A report, based on the statements of three guest divers, sounds worrying: https://taucher.net/diveinside-fire_on_the_m_y_sea_legend-kaz9201 Of course we must be very careful with the cable salad that we produce, but I could not read anywhere that a Li+ battery was the reason for the disaster (engine room or kitchen are usually and most frequently the sources of fire on board)... Wolfgang P.S.: I think this tread would be better visible in one of the forum categories...

The housing (NA-EM5II) with acessories is still for sale (200 Euro OBO plus shipping). It must go to free shelf-space. Make an offer if interested...

Just another issue to mention, in case you decide to go with a native 8mm FE lens and the 140mm domeport: When you acquire the 34.7mm N85 to N120 adapter, you can use the N120 versions (without built-in extensions) of the Nauticam 140mm and the Zen DP170 directly with the Zuiko 8mm FE. Although the adapter is more expensive compared to a built-in extension or a N85 extension ring for a N85 version domeport, I regard this as better choice since you can use the N120 domeport later in case you acquire another system or even another, bigger, lens that requires a larger opening...

There is an interesting review of the new fisheye lens in Petapixel: https://petapixel.com/2024/02/27/sigma-15mm-f-1-4-dg-dn-art-review-wide-weird-and-wonderful/ It seems the lens provides extremely high IQ, but is constructed especially for distant objects and even a very big domeport will not help much: "...The Sigma 15mm is sharp at a distance but when the subject is within a few feet the image can get very blurry in the centers at f/1.4..." => Seems that this lens is indeed not fabricated for us... Wolfgang

The Canon 8-15mm can focus very close to the domeport, did not test systematically, but one can photograph pretty small subjects. With Nauticam 140mm (N120) it needs a 35mm N120 extension. Same extension as with Zen DP170 (N120 version without built in extension). It could be used also with Zen DP100 (N120 version without built-in extension) with a 30mm N120 extension, but this port is so small that the light-shade of the lens has to be removed to fit into the domeport. I used this combination few times at the beginning and IQ looked also o.k. ... Massimo made nice descriptions/tests of the use of Canon 8-15mm on MFT, some time ago: https://interceptor121.com/2019/11/02/fisheye-zoom-for-micro-four-thirds/ https://interceptor121.com/2019/11/30/canon-8-15-mm-fisheye-on-the-panasonic-gh5-pool-tests/ I almost forgot to mention: To use these combinations on Nauticam N85 housings you need, in addition, the N85 to N120 34.7mm adapter, e.g. here: https://www.panoceanphoto.com/Nauticam-N85-N120-34.7mm-Port-Adapter-Metabones => I hear it has been discontinued by Nauticam, but it seems there are still some around (not much demand I guess) Wolfgang

Just out of curiosity: could you compare, at similar AOV, the IQ in the center and also the sharpness in the edges between Tokina and WWL (at which f stops are the corners comparable)?

I cannot comment on all options, but have used some of them on EM1II and EM5II (Nauticam housings): ad (2): I used Oly 8mm behind Zen DP170 and IQ is excellent. Since I was using the adapted fisheyes, I did not use it again, because the IQ is the same and the ability to zoom in is a big advantage... ad (3): I used the Canon 8-15mm with 1x Metabones and Nauticam 140mm domeport. I would say this (but also the Tokina) is the FCP for the MFT system. Excellent IQ. One should, however, not forget the Tokina 10-17mm (Canon version), that I (and now Lisi is using it) used with Zen DP100 (N120 version without built-in extension), 0,71x speedbooster and 20mm N120 extension. I could not see a difference in IQ to the native Oly 8mm f/1.8 or the Canon 8-15mm - but this combo is incredibly compact (excellent CFWA usability, for better you might have to go for EMWL). The Tokina can also be used, at very good IQ, with the same N120 20mm extension and DP100 with the 1x glassless adapter and then delivers angles of views similar to WWL/WACP (when animals are more shy)... => I would say Canon 8-15mm when you plan to switch later to a FF camera, you can then continue to use lens, domeport and extension (this is what I did; ironically the size of the rigg is almost the same compared to MFT (but of course angles of view are less versatile)), but Tokina when you will stay with MFT (or plan to switch to APS-C later)... ad(4): I had the Pana 7-14mm and used it with Zen DP170. I seldom used it, because this combo was a dissapointment, not just corners, IQ lacked contrast, "mushy" even in the center. I almost always preferred, first the native, and then the adapted fisheyes. I have sold this lens already, no use for it. Lisi is now using the Zuiko 8-25mm f/4.0 rectilinear behind Zen DP170 and this combo gives excellent IQ and a very versatile zoom range, much better compared to Pana 7-14mm in both aspects (but not ideal for CFWA; she likes rectilinear much more than me)... Wolfgang

Were the photos made at 14mm? If yes, I believe the edges are, more or less, normal (what does "null" mean? When I look at the photos both have slightly blurred edges, pretty much the same)... Not all of the "blurriness" I see there is due to domeport optics. To some extend it is just a depth of field issue, as the substrate in the edges is closer as the central object is. There is also some kind of "rectilinear" distortion in the edges, that can be observed even without a domeport, when you make comparable photos over the water... WWL/WACP will improve "domeport blurriness" and "rectilinear distortion", but cannot help with out of focus issues. It will also introduce some kind of "fisheye distortion", that is, however, regarded as pleasant by many... Wolfgang

As Barmaglot says, the extension for the Nauticam zoomgear needs to be 40mm (other parameters remaining equal). I have a 3D file for such an extension printed and added it to the other extensions: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ihczuhycokiyjdyja2a13/Canon_815_2xKenko.stl?rlkey=wx5slo4sb2evhd43h81wkxuuk&dl=0 => Before printing, check the length of the Sony 2x TC that you intend to use. It may deviate from the length of the Kenko 2x TC (i.e. 40mm) as it contains glass optics... Wolfgang

It is possible to encounter a seahorse posing in the open water with an earpad or a facemask, but the chances are extremely small. Therefore such photos will be always suspects of un-allowed manipulations (without witnesses one will never know)... From what I know, judges in competitions are instructed to reject any photo that is suspicious of such manipulations - hard to understand that such photos made it (but one has to admit that these photos are very strong in showing the impact of pollution on the sea)... Wolfgang