Sea & Sea D60 housing

More photos, specifically of the two sync cord ports, the pc connector and port, and the inside of the housing:

If you want to forward housing photos on to buddies, use this link:

http://www.wetpixel.com/reviews/d60_seaandsea/

Hey Eric,

I've got a couple quick questions for you, if you don't mind.

It looks like the camera sits on a quick shoe like for a tripod. How easy or hard is it to get the camera in and out of the housing to replace the CF card or battery?

I'm guessing from the photos that the housing is designed to hold the camera without the battery grip (and therefore the second battery). Is that the case? And if so, does that mean that you'd have to remove the camera quick shoe in order to replace the battery?

It probably isn't a big deal given the battery life, but I'm curious what the wear and tear on the quick shoe / mount would be over a large number of dives.

Last question, what is needed to attached strobe arms to the housing, say from Ikelite? Is there an additional bracket needed?

Thanks

Tom

Tom,

Yes, the camera sits on a quick shoe and it's elevated about 1 1/2 from the bottom of the housing. It's fairly easy to take the camera in and out of the housing to replace the battery. Replacing the media card does not require removal of the camera from the quick shoe or out of the housing. Just open the back cover.

You probably need a ULCS Ikelite ball adapter mount for your Ikelite arms.

Eric... hope you don't mind me jumping in:)

Thanks Allan!

Tom

Allan-

PLEASE jump in! I don't have any experience with this housing, yet.

I have ULCS ball adapters in the mail already, and am looking for a hotshoe-mountable light for the macro port.

I just got off the phone with Jim Watt, who says that the PC connector will not work for remote operation out of the box. You have to rip out the electronics box inside and wire it yourself.

Watt has rigged up Ikelite bulkheads on the top of their housing, which he said was a little tricky. He also put a big LCD from Light & Motion on top of his housing, with two different cord lengths so he can put the LCD at one end of a pole as well for remote shooting.

I should have photos of his rig later on today.

Eric,

I think Sea and Sea has a focus light kit that can be mounted on teh DX3060 dummy hotshoe. see pixs below.

Do people typically put matte lenses or diffusers on their focus lights? I use a huge hartenberger with a matte lens for my focus light, and I get no hotspotting.

Or, do people just turn their strobes all the way up so the focus light doesn't matter?

So Jim and Dave are using this rig on the polecam eh? I can't wait to see some pix.

Eric: Do you mean Ikelite "strobe bulkhead" on the top of the housing instead of "port?"

Cheers

James

Do people typically put matte lenses or diffusers on their focus lights?

When I use my UK LightCannon attached to my rig, I use one of the two supplied diffusers to get rid of hotspotting. Works pretty well...

Tom

Eric: Do you mean Ikelite "strobe bulkhead" on the top of the housing instead of "port?"

yes, I did. sorry bout that.

Here's a photo of how the camera sits in the housing.

Eric,

Good tip: Use a red led or filter on the torch as it doesn't 'iss the fish off quite so much. For a 6V torch use a 500 ohm resister in series with the LED.

The super brights I use are good enough to see your way too! B)

I use the small (4AA) flashlight mentioned. I got hotspots on my manta ray night dive in Kona. Here is an example:

A quick and dirty fix is to cut a small piece out of a white plastic grocery bag and rubberband it over your modelling light. That is my $.01 method...:-)

HTH

James

Nice butt!

Are you using a light sabre?

Nope, just a 4 AA flashlight.

Here are my friends from the "business end."

Spooky

check out watt's housing:

More info here.

Eric,

Looks like a bad link..

nice rig i like the external monitor. i see they modified the bulkhead.