Quick question for everybody. After a dozen dives, I've taken the o-rings out of my PT-030, put some grease on them and stored them in a zip lock bag. Great. But what about all the o-rings for all the buttons in the housing. Those are non user-serviceable.
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SP-350 Update
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Bad news...sounds like you lost that micro-oring that seats the connector.
ce4jesus,
I do have this micro-oring. It seems that the cap is a little bit than it should be I tried to remove the oring which is on the Camera case, and then the connector seems to been tighten ...
I really don't know if this is an issue. When you screw the cable to the camera case, is the connector a littel bit loose or it can't move at all?
It seems that the oring of the command cannot easily be changed by user.
Thanks,
Plucker
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ce4jesus,
I do have this micro-oring. It seems that the cap is a little bit than it should be I tried to remove the oring which is on the Camera case, and then the connector seems to been tighten ...
I really don't know if this is an issue. When you screw the cable to the camera case, is the connector a littel bit loose or it can't move at all?
It seems that the oring of the command cannot easily be changed by user.
Thanks,
Plucker
The only time mine has been loose is when that oring was out. Otherwise tightens down nicely. I'm a little confused by your message. YOu removed the oring on the camera case ( There isn't one where the TTL cable connects). All of the orings are inside the connector on the TTL Cable. BTW, there is a spare, micro oring, inside the cap (cover for the TTL port) that came with the camera. Also keep in mind there is 2 orings inside the connector of the TTL cover...again one is very thin and flimsy. With all of that, the connector should seat firmly on the housing with no play. PS...I would not dive with this until you've solved this problem. Later, Gary
Desert,
I've wondered the same thing however I saw a thread where someone had completely disassembled the housing successfully. I have no plans to even try to lube those at the moment.
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For what it's worth to anyone using some of these current Olympus housings, ULCS has a "AD-HS" hotshoe adapter with ball that fits in these housing with a hotshoe. We just ordered one to mount a focus light on my significant other's PT-030 housing.
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ce4jesus,
My TTL cable do have the two oring at each end.
I put a picture of the case connector on which we can see the oring which is usefull when no TTL is connected I think.
Maybe you removed it before.
When I took some picture of the TTL cable, it seems quite dusty ...
Do you have any idea how to clean it efficiently ?

Thank you,
Plucker
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I'd like to check with other people on this but there isn't suppose to be an Oring on the connector to the camera. Mine doesn't have one. This wouldn't allow the TTL cable to seat correctly. I'd remove it and try to see if it snugs up.
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I'd like to check with other people on this but there isn't suppose to be an Oring on the connector to the camera. Mine doesn't have one. This wouldn't allow the TTL cable to seat correctly. I'd remove it and try to see if it snugs up.
Exactly, this is actually what I am thinking after your post, so I may remove it...
I would say it may be needed if the cap is used instead of the TTL cable ...
Plucker.
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Plucker,
I'd check the caps. Mine are identical to the TTL cable connector.
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Plucker,
I'd check the caps. Mine are identical to the TTL cable connector.
ce4jesus,
I think I will try to remove the oring on my case...
Plucker
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Hello,
my friend is using a SP350 + PT030 combo as well and so far it's doing great.
After first 40-50 dives the shooting button began to stuck in the pressed position whenever shot at 30m. She took the housing to Oly service and they said that nothing could be done. They advised her to try to sell the thing.
I tried to help her, so examined the button closely. I thought the spring was too weak and started taking dimensions to find one a bit stronger. Later on I decided to put a bit of silicone grease on the button's shaft. The button now travels through the oring smoothly even at depth, better than the 1st day.
Do you guys have any idea why Oly didn't put this into user's manual or why this couldn't be done at the Oly's service? The orings seem to be common rubber material, therefore silicone grease can't do any harm.
Anyone ever greased the buttons or is it forbidden?
Thanks and regards.
Dejan
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I tried to help her, so examined the button closely. I thought the spring was too weak and started taking dimensions to find one a bit stronger. Later on I decided to put a bit of silicone grease on the button's shaft. The button now travels through the oring smoothly even at depth, better than the 1st day.
Do you guys have any idea why Oly didn't put this into user's manual or why this couldn't be done at the Oly's service? The orings seem to be common rubber material, therefore silicone grease can't do any harm.
Anyone ever greased the buttons or is it forbidden?
Thanks and regards.
Dejan
I noticed this also with mine. I just use a small stick to help the spring, then is seems to work fine then ...
The problem with the grease is that you may stick some dust or sand nearby.
I think cleaning with water and a cloth should be fine.
My humble opinion...
Regards,
Plucker
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"Do you guys have any idea why Oly didn't put this into user's manual or why this couldn't be done at the Oly's service? The orings seem to be common rubber material, therefore silicone grease can't do any harm.
Anyone ever greased the buttons or is it forbidden?"
My experience is Olympus doesn't believe in customer service. I'm surprised they didn't offer you the option of sending it in for $175 (the cost of a new housing on Ebay from Olympus). In reality, they're no help beyond replacing the main Oring. I've owned several Oly products mainly because of price and performance however you have to treat those products as disposable. I broke the plastic bulkhead off of the flash housing...a simple repair if you have the bulkhead. As a matter of fact, you have to remove it to install the TTL cable. However, Oly wouldn't sell the part. I ended up purchasing another housing on the official Oly reseller's site on Ebay for cheaper than Oly wanted for servicing the housing. Personally I like their stuff, however I have no preconceived notion that Oly is going to support it in any way.
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I noticed this also with mine. I just use a small stick to help the spring, then is seems to work fine then ...
The problem with the grease is that you may stick some dust or sand nearby.
I think cleaning with water and a cloth should be fine.
My humble opinion...
Regards,
Plucker
I've had this problem with may of the Oly PT housings and have used a quick squirt of silicone spray in the binding button with good success.
aloha from Hawaii,
Larry
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I've had the same issue for some time now. Happens generally in cold water and at depth. I greased it, that helped for a while. I dripped a little silicone in. That helped as well, but it repeats. My solution is a 4" bent tipped surgical clamp that I hang on my BC. If it sticks, I just pull it out. It has been great since my recent trip to Grand Cayman. Stuck once there, and not since. I don't expect to stay lucky, however. I think it's a combination of maybe a little salt on the shaft and a pressure differential between the housing and the outside environment. Probably could use a substantially stronger spring.
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I just discovered this thread on the SP-350. I bought one with the Oly housing in July, literally 1 day before leaving for Bonaire. I also got the fiber optic kit to use with a Sea&Sea YS-90DX. Mostly I was happy with the camera, esp. with the advantages I was looking for over a Canon A70: bigger screen, hood to shield the screen... maybe less shutter lag. You can see my photos here. Another shot. In many cases it worked quite well.
But I did encounter some problems with focus time, and ability to focus on macro subjects even with great patience. Write time to the card was SLOW, and after a shot in RAW, was very VERY slow. I also found that battery life was a bit of a problem, even with 2 new 2750 mAh NiMH batteries fully charged. Also found that over the course of 2 weeks, the housing o-ring stretched out to the point where I couldn't get it in housing (!)
Ultimately I decided that I'm getting fussy (about response time, image quality, autofocus capability) to the point of needing an SLR for macro and wide angle shooting, so now I'm trying to decide between a Nikon D80 and a D200 (leaning toward the D200). But the SP-350 is still a nice way to get into UW photography.
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Tubino,
Very nice photos. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15997 This is a link to a focus light I've put on the camera for the very reason you talk about...focusing on macro. Virtually impossible in low light. This light helps the camera lock on a whole lot faster and its very cheap. I think there's one on Ebay for $50. BTW, when you take the plunge for that D200 I'd like to hear your thoughts. Thanks for sharing your great photos.
Gary