S&S 350D housing and TTL Converter

Hi,

Thanks James for your advices, your are right about the macro setting.

The results from Pakman looks good in my point of view. I'm witing to see what's append with 2 strobes.

Claude

Hi,

So, yesturday, I tryed to make a new test with the converter and the strobe but I got a problem with the Z-240.

I shot the 1st picture and she was over-exposed.

I was suprise, so I reset all the gear.

For this moment, I can't get any flash/light from the Z-240.

I mean, everything works normaly:the focus light, the red and green leds, except I don't have any light/flash form the strobe.

I tryed many setting, even to use with a compact camera and an optical cable, the results was the same: no flash.

Do you think than the strobe is over?

Somebody already got the same problem?

Thanks

Claude

Thanks Matt, I hadn't seen that formula before, but then I am new at this. It certainly matched the empirical evidence better.

Steve B

Many issues here. First is the guessing - I'll let that be . Second - were the diffusers on (lower power reaching subject)? Third - adding guide numbers is not as simple as GN#1 + GN#2. The formula is NewGN=SQRT(GN#1^2+GN#2^2+...). Even if the air GN of the DS-125 was 60 (ft), the GN of both of the strobes would be ~85 (ft), and at 6ft and f/22, would not provide a correct exposure.

 

Hope this helps

 

~Matt Segal

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Hi,

 

So, yesturday, I tryed to make a new test with the converter and the strobe but I got a problem with the Z-240.

 

I shot the 1st picture and she was over-exposed.

I was suprise, so I reset all the gear.

For this moment, I can't get any flash/light from the Z-240.

I mean, everything works normaly:the focus light, the red and green leds, except I don't have any light/flash form the strobe.

 

I tryed many setting, even to use with a compact camera and an optical cable, the results was the same: no flash.

 

Do you think than the strobe is over?

Somebody already got the same problem?

 

Thanks

 

Claude

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Claude, I think I know what you may have done!! Check that you plugged the TTL Converter into the correct plug on the housing (The one that says converter)! I made that mistake and the strobes wouldn't fire! Other than that, double check all the cable connections...

Pakman, guess i will see you here for the next few hours.. hehehe

Hi Pakman,

Thanks for your advice.

I think I did well because I got a 1st fire and with the optical cable and a compact camera, the situation is the same.

But, I will check another time tonight.

Claude

Pakman, guess i will see you here for the next few hours.. hehehe

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Mike, wanna see some more diet coke test shots?

Yes, but i'd like the can held by a lady with dimples....

Yes,  but i'd like the can held by a lady with dimples....

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You mean this cutie?

I'll see if she's willing to help me out with some poolside TTL strobe tests

Oh, and since your the Mod here Mike, may I suggest that this thread might be better off moved over to the Lights subforum?

Nah, TTL and DSLR go hand in hand... tis alright here i think...

and dimples...

oh, btw, no making fun of my TTL converter during the workshop

not a problem.. i won't let you use it....

Pakman,

Thanks for getting this thread rolling...I've yet to review all of the discussion but just did a similar run of images last night, with my Nikon D200 setup, which is otherwise very similar to yours, in a DX200 housing with dual Z-240 strobes and the Sea & Sea TTL controller. I ran tests in Manual and TTL, with the results found at http://ambress.com/D200/DX200/Z240.

Regards,

Daryl

oooh, D200 S&S... very nice... Hey have you tried your rig underwater with those pool noodles (foam) on the arms. I'm trying to locate some here in HK to add some buoyancy to my setup. As my S&S 350D housing is so small and the inon's pretty negative, would like to add some floats as well to improve the balance of things...

Hi Pakman,

No, I've not yet been in the water with my foam-sleeved strobe arms. Actually, I expect very little change to the buoyancy since there simply isn't enough foam there to do much and there is still compression of the foam at depth. But, I wanted to at least explore the idea. In shallow waters the foam will zero out the weight of the arm segments at least. The 8-inch buoyany arms were already positive, floating at their centerline while the foam sleeve raised their water line maybe 20%. The small 5-inch standard arms were negative enough to sink pretty quickly and now float. I think the only type approach that would really give much positive buyoancy is a strong but lightweight, sealed tube. I don't expect the negative buoyancy to be such an issue that I have to jerry-rig some bulky solution that just adds more drag. Hmmm....nope...there's no Helium fill port on the DX200 housing. Darn!

Daryl