Tokina 10-17 FE test fotos I

This is for Pakman, friend and any other interested in using a 400D in a 350D Ikelite housing.

In this post

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16618

I put some photos and explanations of my mods.

I hope that this could be useful for someone.

Rai

Hi Rai,

Me gusto those land shots. That's a nice lens indeed. I shall have to get onbe for sure. Thanks for the looks. The 17mm mode in your friend's shots UW also look like its pretty handy at 10 thru 17.

Best,

Tim

It looks like Ike has now officially endorsed this lens:

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/2port_canon.html#seedown

The 8inch port is not even specially recommended, it also fits in the 5503.

Amigos,

I predict this little compact FISHEYE lens will be a hot one!

Especially since it will be sharper in the corners than a rectilinear lens, and is compact enough to work in Ikelite's #5503 "standard' dome port or the 8" for spectacular over / under shots.

Canon users who have envied the Nikon 10.5mm shooters no longer need to be relegated to second best when wanting a true fisheye effect on a cropped sensor camera.

The price is very, very competitive, too!

dhaas

I'm very tempted to pick one up, but the lack of a filter holder is making me wary.

Does anyone have any ideas on adding a magic filter to this lens?

Has anybody yet found out how much you'd need to cut off the Ikelite #5503 port shade?

BR,

LN

is it just for Canon or is there a Nikon mount too?

if so...

who wants to buy my 12-24?

is it just for Canon or is there a Nikon mount too?

 

if so...

 

who wants to buy my 12-24?

 

yes mike it's available for nikon as well

see here

sorry dunno what i'd do with your 12-24

/paul

Hi Rai,

 

Me gusto those land shots. That's a nice lens indeed. I shall have to get onbe for sure. Thanks for the looks. The 17mm mode in your friend's shots UW also look like its pretty handy at 10 thru 17.

 

Best,

 

Tim

Thank you Tim. I'm glad you liked the shots. I'm convinced that the 17 mm focal (and all the range from 10 mm) is also very useful, specially for CFWA but I couldn't check it out as far as I would yet. Weather conditions and proper subjects were too elusive to me recently and all my test were focused basically at 10 mm (although I also made some photos a t 17 mm.

It looks like Ike has now officially endorsed this lens:

 

http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/2port_canon.html#seedown

 

The 8inch port is not even specially recommended, it also fits in the 5503.

Has anybody yet found out how much you'd need to cut off the Ikelite #5503 port shade?

 

BR,

LN

In my opinion the main use of the 8" port is for over/under shots, as David Haas has wisely pointed.

For any other use the 5503 works just great (and it's not so bulky).

Well, In fact Yesterday I coud make another test dive. I checked that dome port shade is very sensitive to a proper alignment. Any little accuracy error in port and shade mounting may result in vignetting and you my want to try to trim the shade just slightkly to give you more room for misalingment errors.

But I also found a annoying issue of inner reflections not . The spring of the zoom clamp apears in many of my shots . I believe that some better alignment of the clamp over the lens will help a lot, but I'm not sure of how much (in some photos you can see more area than just the springs).

I'm very tempted to pick one up, but the lack of a filter holder is making me wary.

Does anyone have any ideas on adding a magic filter to this lens?

I'm also very interested in this posibility. All I can say now that there's room for it and probably something could be done. Proper fixing it's the only issue...

is it just for Canon or is there a Nikon mount too?

Yes, as Paul has just pointed to you. In this very thread I already posted this (that might interest you):

In this thread of a spanish forum, he put some very good examples of the Tokina 10-17 and almost at the end of the post you can find some shots of a comparation of angles of view of the 10.5 and the tokina (at 10 and 17):

 

http://forobuceo.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24958

About your 12-24, this is a complementary lens with a only a small area of common angle of view. You may want to keep it.

Rai

now does anyone know which port extension I should get for this Tokina lens behind an athena glass dome (and S&S housing)...

now does anyone know which port extension I should get for this Tokina lens behind an athena glass dome (and S&S housing)...

Hi pakman

AFAIK the shots my friend did (the link repeated in my last message) were done in one S&S housing for a Nikon D200 and the Athena dome with no port extension.

Rai

Hi pakman

 

AFAIK the shots my friend did (the link repeated in my last message) were done in one S&S housing for a Nikon D200 and the Athena dome with no port extension.

 

Rai

thanks Rai!

ooooh... so tempting to run out tomorrow during lunch to see if any of the shops in Hong Kong have that Tokina lens!

Sounds about right (no extension). The Tokina is a short lens at 71mm. That's only 10mm longer than the Sigma 15mm fisheye, which requires no extension for either the large or small S&S domes. You might get slightly better corners with the SX Extension ring (20mm) but then you might get vignetting, and you introduce the liability of the dome unbayonetting.**

So first up try it without.

Martyn

** I'm working on a Sea&Sea extension ring locking solution. I'll show it when its done.

Hmm... well the tokina is about 71.5mm length vs 90mm on the Canon 10-22 I have. I think I have the SX 40mm ext. so maybe the 20mm is what I need (edited: oops, can't do simple arithmetic, dooh!)

also the d200 has a 1.5x crop factor right? so if Rai's friend is getting pretty good corners there, shouldn't be a problem with a Canon 400D (1.6x crop sensor)...

I´ts interesting to se how the corners turn out with the tokina and the athena dome.

I have the ahena port and a canon 10-22 lens and it a good combination but the corners are soft... (I belive that john bantin posted a thread about this issue a while ago)

I have the ahena port and a canon 10-22 lens and it a good combination but the corners are soft... (I belive that john bantin posted a thread about this issue a while ago)

yup I've noticed that too on a few w/a reefscape pics with my Athena glass dome/ 40mm SX ext./ Canon 10-22mm/ Rebel XT... was debating getting a diopter.

Well, In fact Yesterday I coud make another test dive. I checked that dome port shade is very sensitive to a proper alignment. Any little accuracy error in port and shade mounting may result in vignetting and you my want to try to trim the shade just slightkly to give you more room for misalingment errors.

This is also the case with the 10.5mm. I like having the shade to protect the dome but I have considered omitting the shade with the FE. The alignment is pretty easy to test as part of my setup process. The main problem is in using multiple port extensions and the screw on bayonet style mounting of this extension with the low-profile latches. Every time I re-mount the extension it goes on differently and you have to re-adjust the dome shade to make sure its aligned properly when the port is installed correctly. Its one more step but I'm happy not to have multiple 8" domes.

But I also found a annoying issue of inner reflections not . The spring of the zoom clamp apears in many of my shots . I believe that some better alignment of the clamp over the lens will help a lot, but I'm not sure of how much (in some photos you can see more area than just the springs).

I would recommend painting the springs or anything that shows up in your pictures black. Testors makes some excellent flat black model paint. I covered my lens ring on my Canon P&S with black tape because it was reflecting CANON onto the port. I haven't used the 8" dome with any lens using the springs. The only zoom I use it with is the 12-24mm which does not need the zoom clamp.

This is also the case with the 10.5mm. I like having the shade to protect the dome but I have considered omitting the shade with the FE. The alignment is pretty easy to test as part of my setup process. The main problem is in using multiple port extensions and the screw on bayonet style mounting of this extension with the low-profile latches. Every time I re-mount the extension it goes on differently and you have to re-adjust the dome shade to make sure its aligned properly when the port is installed correctly. Its one more step but I'm happy not to have multiple 8" domes.

I suppose that some kind of adhesive (and waterproof ;-)) marking would help. Just a piece of paper with marks painted on it, covered with traspanrent adhesive tape could be very useful.

I would recommend painting the springs or anything that shows up in your pictures black. Testors makes some excellent flat black model paint. I covered my lens ring on my Canon P&S with black tape because it was reflecting CANON onto the port. I haven't used the 8" dome with any lens using the springs. The only zoom I use it with is the 12-24mm which does not need the zoom clamp.

Uhmmm! Nice idea. I didn't even think of painting the spring. This was not the 8" dome port (just the 6") and there were some other reflections but the springs were the more conspicous. I was thinking in a black inner sleeve (or just a paint layer) for the cilinder that couples with the clamp, but certainly painting the springs could be very helpful too.

Rai

Well, this lens is the only option for Canon if you want a fisheye in a cropped sensor. But now Nikon users have two choices. Here is an interesting comparison between the Tokina and the 10.5mm fisheye Nikkor:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp...essage=21175059

The Nikkor seems to have a bit less chromatic aberration and reproduce more details, but I think the Tokina is a great choice for those looking for versatility.

This is my very first picture with the 10-17mm tokina, I cant compare it with any other lenses, but in my opinion its just fine."What a Xmas"

Ted