d200 setup

It would be so nice to have a neutral system, the weight is really the only problem I have with this configuration - I am very happy with it.

 

Carol's buoyancy rings seem an interesting option, they shouldn't add to much bulk.

Yeah, it seems to be a catch-22 when it comes to having something small and streamlined and neutral. The tighter the housing the less airspace to provide buoyancy I have big and hairy and am looking forward to trying to streamline as much as possible my next rig

Thanks for all the feedback from Subal users - it was great to hear people were happy with their D200s - particularly on the battery life which was a concern.

Carol - I hope you painting is all finished and you are back diving

I'm waiting for ny ND20 to arrive ...

Leander and all,

I know you will be happy with the ND20. The Subal housing is really nice and the buttons are so easy to push compared to the other housings I tried.

I was just surprised initially how heavy it was, no one warned me (and a couple of people should have).

The buoyancy ring Ryan Canon carved for me is not bulky but it is kinda big (diameter-wise, I'd say about 7" in diameter). That is because I only use the ring on the 105vr - on the special Subal 105vr port. It you look at that port the only place for a buoyancy ring is in the indent right behind the glass and right in front of the focus knob. That is where it sits. Plus I still use a little foam on two of the regular 8" ULCS arms and 2 Patima BCs one on each inside 8" arm. It sounds massive but it really isn't. The 105vr is very balanced and light but I'd hate to try to get it in a tight space - I have just taken the buoyancy ring off and wear it on my arm for awhile, I've done that. You can use the 105vr port w/ just with the Patima BCs but after descending you have to add air to the Patima's at some point so by using a combo of non-compressible and compressible buoyancy I find it is very workable. Not perfect but then what is??? Of course I'd love a larger housing that was lighter in water - but this is what I have and I've got it under control now. Hey I've even hid behind the buoyancy ring and my setup!! No lie, I got so close to a polkadot batfish and he did all his feeding behaviors, etc and I know it was cause he just thought my setup was another piece of sunken flotsam and he couldn't see me behind it apparently!

I wish I could take a pic of the setup, I'll try to put something together but I've got the camera re-configured for w/a now with no TTL, no strobes etc. I'll be shooting a little rehabbed dolphin almost exclusively for the next few weeks. Quite an honor to be chosen and I have to study how to get the best pics of her despite very limited access.

Leander, some painting done, not all done but the condo looks a lot better! Thanks for the well-wishes ---- I just want to get in the water more now, like usual!!!

Best, Carol (Yes with all the cleaning and painting I'm exhausted!! Funny how much more tiring it is than diving.........?)

One more question

I have a 105VR port on the way, but it probably won't get in the water until I'm away. Is there anything I should be prepared with or need to get to make it work on the ND20? The focus system of the port works straight on the lens - so I don't need a gear?? ... but anything else?

cheers

Leander

It seems the biggest concern is buoyancy. As I said earlier I do not do that much macro so buoyancy is not a big thing for me. I routinely use UCLS 12" buoyancy arms so maybe that is one reason it does not bother me. But UCLS have just come out with 'fat boy' buoyancy arms - you may want to look at those.

One more question

 

I have a 105VR port on the way, but it probably won't get in the water until I'm away. Is there anything I should be prepared with or need to get to make it work on the ND20? The focus system of the port works straight on the lens - so I don't need a gear?? ... but anything else?

 

cheers

Leander

Nope, the port works great for the 105vr lens and the focus knob is smooth, full-time manual focus - on-demand so to speak - is a neat thing!!

Only thing is if you want to use a Woody's diopter with it in the future email him and ask him to make you one in a 120mm size (unusual size to fit 105vr port). Or maybe a dealer will decide to make some in that size by then.

If you want to add a screw on diopter inside the port it won't fit (I learned all about this). You need to either remove (or get someone to remove) the black ring around the diopter and place the glass on the front of the 105vr lens with blue sticky tack stuff or you can add an extension ring - but then you need to get the extension ring "bored out" to accommodate the "fat" lens and still the manual focus knob will not line up. Better to place glass diopter on front of the lens with blu tak, probably so it will fit in port. I'm in the process of sending my 5T and 6T diopters to Ryan Canon right now for him to remove the diopters for me because I can't remove the black rings........of course he makes it look so easy!! Those camera whizes!!!! B)

Do you want to shoot with teleconverters? The Kenko 2X and 1.4X will work with the Subal 105vr port and extension rings and the manual focus knob will still work. I think the 1.4X works with the 20mm ex ring (bored out for the fat lens) and you can still use the manual focus knob. And the 2X works with a combo of the 15mm ex ring and the 30mm ex ring (as I recall), I used it and the manual knob still engages.

Or you can add a Macro Mate from Backscatter to the front of the 105vr, but that wet double diopter is really heavy and on an already heavy lens?........, egads.....

Chuck is right the new ULCS "fat" buoyancy arms will help a lot, but I hear you have to get 10" to 12" ones to really make a difference, 8" ones don't do that much. I like the 8" arms that I have, thus my other solutions.

Wide angle is not as heavy as the macro setups, especially the 105vr.

Leander that should about cover it!!!!! Most all forseeable configurations!!!

Best to you, Carol