Hello,
I just received my Inon UWL 100 and screwed it on my PT010. In the display of the camera I can see 3 black edges. The manual proposes to soom out a bit, but isn't that contraproductive? Any other tips?
Thanks,
Bernd.
Photography Gear and Technique / Archived topic
Started by bernd ·
Read-only discussion
Hello,
I just received my Inon UWL 100 and screwed it on my PT010. In the display of the camera I can see 3 black edges. The manual proposes to soom out a bit, but isn't that contraproductive? Any other tips?
Thanks,
Bernd.
Yes, that is counterproductive. What you are experiencing is called vignetting.
Why take a camera with a 35mm lens on it, then put on an add-on coverter lens to take you to 24mm if you have to zoom back in to get a good shot?
This is why the choice of converter rings and add-on lenses is so important. Vignetting and soft corners are some problems you may experience.
Cheers
James
James,
Do you know to what extent this is a problem with the Olympus 5050 and PT-015 and PWC-01 lens?
I don't have experience w/ the system but I think it would be valuable for someone to put together a table like this:
Housing/lens:.............Fuzzy Corner?.................Vignetting?
PT-010........................Yes/No.............................Yes/No
Inon.............................NO......................................NO
Sea and Sea WAL L......NO......................................NO
Olympus
PT-015
Inon
Sea and Sea
Olympus.................................................................NO
Anyone care to help fill this in?
Sincerely,
James
I do have experience with the system. The lens will do this out of water, but shouldn't once you submerge as the angle of coverage decreases slightly underwater due to the difference in density between air and water.
Mike
Mike, thanks.
Keep the replies coming! I will fill in/edit the table as we hear from PT-015 users and Sea and Sea and Oly users.
Cheers
James
I didnt notice any black edges when I used my Oly WAL lens with the pt-105 housing. I also used some adapter rings to use the WAL right on the 5050. It works fine that way too, but it blocks a lot of the flash out.
Dustin
I also used some adapter rings to use the WAL right on the 5050. It works fine that way too, but it blocks a lot of the flash out.
Dustin
Do you have to use adapter rings or will the PWC-01 fit right onto the PT-015?
It fits directly onto the PT-015 . . .
I have the 100 degree lens on a Tetra and dont have a problem.
Check out this beauty from Inon. Taken with UWL-100 + dome port using a 5050 in a PT-015.
http://www.inon.co.jp/gallery/latest/002.jpg
Now there's a close focus wide angle. I don't see any dark rings or fuzzy corners. Can't wait to get mine in the water.
Here's the refering page with the shot info plus other shots.
James...
I use a S&S WAL L lens with my PT-10. I get NO fuzzy corners and NO vignetting.
They mention on the ikelite site that adding wide-angle lenses, such as the Inon, to the Canon G3 model isn't a good idea as you get vignetting. They recommend the Inon for the G2 though. Kind of a shame since the G3 apparently has a faster response time.
I have an Oly PWC-01 WAL and the Ikelite 6130.1 housing for an Oly 4040. I experience no vignetting.
There may also be confusion between fuzzy corners and DOF.
bobf
This eel image is straight out of the camera except for resizing. Are the fuzzy corners due to DOF?
Hi Bob,
First off, what F-stop were you shooting at? The EXIF for the shot should tell you.
If it was low, and you were focusing close, then YES, the fuzzy upper corners are probably due to low DOF.
Here is a shot taken with the Ikelite housing and the Epoque DCL-20 WA Lens. Notice how it is a relatively flat surface being photographed, but the corners are still WAY fuzzy? This is an example of a WA lens that is not in the proper location to focus the image properly on the CCD - it is eather too far or too close to the front of the Olympus camera.
This photo is an excellent teaching tool and is being used c/o Russell Jacobs
Cheers
James
James,
Here's the exif:
F 5.0
1/800
103mm
spot macro
iso 100
This was not necessarily an image I felt benefitted from the addition of the WAL. The lens was in place and the eel appeared and I began depressing. It is my assumption that the zooming of 103mm influenced the minimal DOF in the eel pic and what appears out of focus in the corners is just that, out of focus. The spot macro may also be an attributing factor.
For comparison, the next unexciting image I photographed on the "roll" was this coral head.
F 5.0
1/100
36 mm
Can we assume anything from the difference in the focal length of the lens in the two images?
bob
That anemone shot is AWESOME.
I would say that the problem with the eel picture is definitely an artifact of using the wide-angle lens with the camera at a telephoto setting. The instructions for the INON lens, for example, are very clear about using the camera with the internal lens at the widest possible setting for best results . . .
Mike
Just received my UN PWC-01 WAL at work. Screwed it on, went downstairs and took some pictures topside. No black edges at full wide, but as expected, plenty of barrel and edge distortion topside. Hopefully can test UW this weekend.
At full wide:
Full tele:
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