S&S Nikon TTL controller and Inon Z240

Dear all,

I'm about to change all my UW photo gear for:

Nikon D300 and S&S housing. I owe 2x Inon Z-240 strobes that I always used in manual mode with my previous housing.

Now, would the S&S TTL controller III (or II) work with those 2 strobes to give me TTL control? I don't necessarily need it, but it would be good if I had the choice.

I received an answer to an e-mail to the S&S HK dealer which says that the controller works only for the S&S strobes. I can see it as a way of covering themselves and I saw posted somewhere that people are using it in that configuration.

What is your suggestion: get it or not? if yes controller II or III?

Thanks a lot.

alex

Hi Alex,

I am not aware of having read any posts of anyone trying it yet. My understanding is the Mk III would be the best bet for compatibility and lack of corrosion problems.

If I had to guess, I would expect it to work with the D300 and Inons. But that is just a guess.

Alex

A friend of mine uses the d2x in a subal housing with the s&S converter and dual inon z240s without a problem. I use the internal heinrich converter on my d200, the internal board fried during a trip and was covered by warranty. Heinrich now makes an external converter.

hope this helps.

Hi Guys,

Apparently the Mk II was not compatible with the new S&S YS250 strobes

and the Mk III was the update to rectify this problem.

I am currently trying out an 'older' Mk I i-TTL converter with the Inon Z-22 ringflash.

Results have been very promising...IMHO Images taken in RAW needed very little

or nil exposure work in PS... Sorry Alex, camera used was Nikon D70S in Nexus housing...

HTH,

Bruce...

Apparently the Mk II was not compatible with the new S&S YS250 strobes

and the Mk III was the update to rectify this problem.

Bruce...

Bruce, I'm not sure if that is quite correct. S&S actual specifies another TTL converter (both Canon and Nikon) made specifically for the YS250 strobes separate from the new mk III Converters.

from their press releases on the MDX housings...

"â—TTL strobe photography is possible when used with product 50112 (TTL converter lll for Nikon) or product 50115 (TTL converter 250 for Nikon) (optional)."

Hi everyone,

Thanks a lot. I will try to ask the shop if I could try the controller before buying it and I'll let you know what happens.

A very stupid question: how do I judge if the TTL works properly? I assume that no matter what speed and shutter I use the picture has to be normally (or close to normally) exposed. Is it correct?

Thanks again for your help.

alex

A very stupid question: how do I judge if the TTL works properly? I assume that no matter what speed and shutter I use the picture has to be normally (or close to normally) exposed. Is it correct?

alex

simple answer yes, but you'll probably see it tail off at aperture wide open (e.g. f/2.8 and you are very very close to the subject and the strobes can't squelch fast enough) or a very very small aperture (e.g. f/32) with a fast shutter where you are hitting the limitations of the strobes and not the converter.

I would setup the camera in the housing attached to the TTL converter + strobe. Find some non shiny object to shoot. Maybe set shutter at 1/100s-1/200s, and then just start going through various aperture settings. Set your camera so you can see the histogram. Then see if the exposures match at various aperture settings.

maybe this thread will help

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23010

Hi Pakman,

Luckily I said "Apparently..."

That information was relayed to me by one of the US distributers of S&S product.

Alex,

I can confirm Pakman's suggestions on the TTL test procedures. I have just completed

my own tests and was happy with the results. Most reliable results seem to come from

the F4 to F22 range of apetures. For shutter speed, I chose 1/500 because I know that

my camera (Nikon D70S) will sync with the strobe up to that speed.

I don't know of too many retailers that will let you carry in all your equipment and set

it all up to one of their electrical products just to test it out... , interesting concept though.

HTH,

Bruce...

Bruce,

I spend a fair bit of money from this shop and refer friends as well. Without being too demanding I hope they do this favor to me. At the end of the day If it's ok I'll get it, so it goes to their benefit.

Mike, thanks for the tip on the TTL test. We'll see what happens. The housing will arrive at the end on the month... hopefully!

alex

Hi,

I finally received all the goodies. I've just finished to test them and I confirm that the S&S TTL controller works with the Inon Strobes.

Set up:

Nikon D300

300 micro lens f/2.8

S&S housing

TTL converter III connected to the housing controller port

2x Inon Z-240

I tested it in this way (previous posts have already reported this test):

1. controller in TTL mode:

-1/60 (f. 8-11-14-18-22-29-32)

-1/125 (f. same than above)

-1/250 (f.same tan above)

Result: all the exposures were good and all the histograms balanced (some slightly more, some slightly less). The tendency is to slightly underexposed than overespose.

2. controller in manual mode

-1/60 (f.8-32)... all over exposed ++++

-1/125 (same than above)... f.8 overexposed ++++, f. 32 fine

-1/250 (same than above)... f. 8 overexposed ++++, f. 32 overexposed ++

alex

Hi,

 

I finally received all the goodies. I've just finished to test them and I confirm that the S&S TTL controller works with the Inon Strobes.

 

Set up:

Nikon D300

300 micro lens f/2.8

S&S housing

TTL converter III connected to the housing controller port

2x Inon Z-240

 

I tested it in this way (previous posts have already reported this test):

 

1. controller in TTL mode:

-1/60 (f. 8-11-14-18-22-29-32)

-1/125 (f. same than above)

-1/250 (f.same tan above)

Result: all the exposures were good and all the histograms balanced (some slightly more, some slightly less). The tendency is to slightly underexposed than overespose.

 

2. controller in manual mode

-1/60 (f.8-32)... all over exposed ++++

-1/125 (same than above)... f.8 overexposed ++++, f. 32 fine

-1/250 (same than above)... f. 8 overexposed ++++, f. 32 overexposed ++

 

alex

Hi!

I am new in this forum, so first of all a friendly HELLO to everyone. I am thinking to switch from my compact camera to a D-SLR (Nikon D80 or D200). I already have an Inon Z-240 and I am interested if the Sea&Sea converter also works for the mentioned camera models. Well, I hope it does, since I want to use the flash in TTL mode rather than manual mode since I am new to S-DLR and I think it will help me quite a bit in the beginning if I do not have to worry about the flash settings in addition to all the other things I have to practice. Has anyone a link to a shop where the underwaterhousing and accessories for Sea&Sea can be bought for a decent price? Or links to shops which deal with 2-nd hand housings and converters?

If anyone has experience with the Inon Z-240 and the D80 and/or the D200, I would be delighted if you want to share your knowledge with me.

Alternative to the Sea&Sea converter, there is an external converter of Heinrichs, which should work. It costs about 400Euro (including the strobe shoe to connect with the camera). Does anyone have experience with this converter?

Thanks, Wolfgang

I haven't personally tried it, but from what I've read I'm almost positive the Z240's will work with the S&S TTL converter II or TTL converter III, and the D80 or the D200. I've read about several people using those combinations without any problems.

I use the TTL converter II (with a D80 and S&S strobes) and it works very well for me.

I'd post here (in the classifieds forums) saying you're looking for a used S&S housing, they come up every so often

Does the S&s controller work with standard nikonos bulkheads for other housings?

Jack

Does the S&s controller work with standard nikonos bulkheads for other housings?

 

Jack

Hi Jack,

I'm using S&S TTL controller MK I with my Nikon D70S in a Nexus housing...no problems as long as the hotshoe connecter/adapter is the full five wire TTL unit, AND, the actual camera is NOT earthed to the housing!!!! This is what AlexM was referring to with relation to corrosion problems. I think that the newer MK III unit's battery housing is plastic and this eliminates the corrosion worries. However, all I did was put electrical tape over the camera tray in the housing and used a plastic tripod screw to mount the camera to the housing's base plate...

HTH,

Bruce...

Hi Jack,

I'm using S&S TTL controller MK I with my Nikon D70S in a Nexus housing...no problems as long as the hotshoe connecter/adapter is the full five wire TTL unit, AND, the actual camera is NOT earthed to the housing!!!! This is what AlexM was referring to with relation to corrosion problems. I think that the newer MK III unit's battery housing is plastic and this eliminates the corrosion worries. However, all I did was put electrical tape over the camera tray in the housing and used a plastic tripod screw to mount the camera to the housing's base plate...

HTH,

Bruce...

Thanks, Bruce. it would be in a Fantasea plastic housing.

Cheers,

Jack

Thanks, Bruce. it would be in a Fantasea plastic housing.

 

Cheers,

Jack

Hey Jack,

I somehow thought that it might have been...

Bruce...

OK - new to the Sea and Sea world - just switched over from Ikelite housing/strobes; so very used to TTL. I have the new MDX housing for a Canon 40D - and I understand there is some issue with the old Sea and Sea Canon TTL converter and the 40D - so need to wait for the Canon version of the Converter 3.

So 2 questions - anyone know when the Canon version of the converter 3 is coming out (is it available in Japan yet?)

And what is the issue with the old converter and the 40D - a big problem, or just some nit? I went ahead and switched from my Ike DS125's to Sea and Sea YS 110's in anticipation of this converter being available - have a 3 week trip to Lembeh/Raja Ampat in 3 weeks, and would like to shoot TTL in Lembeh if available.

TIA

Bruce

Hi all,

I have used the TTL converter version one and two. They work well with my D2x and Inon z240s. However don't assume they will work with the d200 and z240s. I know many that have problems with this setup. I dont know why they work well for some and will not for others. It doesn't have anything to do with housing wireing either. My advise is to try it out before you buy.

Cheers,

Espen :-)

I have 2 Subal/D 200/Z240/S&S TTL converters.

It works perfectly. When first set up, I had to dial in about -1.5 flash off set in the camera to get the S&S TTL units exposing correctly for an "average" image. When switching to W/A, I dial in .3 more off set, but my wife leaves hers alone.

I have 2 Subal/D 200/Z240/S&S TTL converters.

 

It works perfectly. When first set up, I had to dial in about -1.5 flash off set in the camera to get the S&S TTL units exposing correctly for an "average" image. When switching to W/A, I dial in .3 more off set, but my wife leaves hers alone.

With all due respect.

If you need to dial in -1.5 it aint working properly! Mine works flawless without needing any adjustments.

I forgot to say in my previous post that I now use version 3. This one works verywell without any corrosive problems. So no longer need to separate the camera from ground for those using Nexus housings.

Best wishes,

Espen :-)