Shutter Release Mod?

Has anyone done a mod to their IKE housing shutter release lever? I would like to place mine at a different angle which would make it easier to manipulate with the double handle tray if possible......

Do these levers just screw into the knobs on the housing?

They should be easy to mod as they are only threaded socket set screws.

Worst come to worst just get a local machine shop to custom make you what you want - the only critical dimension to maintain is the OD of the rod through the quad ring. You do need to ensure that you use a polished rod rather than ground rod as the ground stock will take out the O-ring in short order.

Paul C

many thanks. Is this an unusual thing to do? My right hand does not bode well with the handle/shutter release. It is REALLY getting on my nerves!

I have not heard of it - but that does not mean that it is not right for you!

With my Ike housings I have not had a problem myself - maybe you could post a picture of where the issue is and indicate what you intend or would like to do ?

It may be that your housing is different in layout to those that I have had.

If the setup is similar to my housing and all you want to do is change the angle of the rod then I think that you probably only have to slacken a couple of grub screws and rotate it - after that then you may be looking for a bit more metalwork!

If it is a totally different rod length or shape then it should still be pretty easy.

It is not rocket science but you need to take a bit of care with the quad rings if you end up removing the shaft and as always it would be advisable to give it a test run without the camera in the housing before taking pictures again (that is if you go the 'major surgery' route!).

Paul C

As you can see from the pic, I cant quite reach the lever comfortably. This is why I dont like the IKE double tray but I cannot justify buying a whole new assembly.

I want to be able to half-press mthe lever with my index finger.....I can reach around but then I dont have the steadiness I want.

I've looked into doing the same thing with mine. My shutter release is in the exact same place and I havnt met anyone who can comfortably reach it. even if your hand were bigger its still an unnatural stretch.

The Ike try is desinged that way because if the arms were any closer to the housing the latches would not be able to open without removing the arms. I'd like to be able to turn mine so that its operable by pulling the lever twards the camera body (horazontally) rather than the pushing down which is awkward to do while holding something else.

The problem i found was that rotating it 90 degree UP allowed this to happen but moved it farthure away and was still just as hard to reach and 90 degree the other direction put it in the prime position but in the way of the latch and when you tryed to oporate it it turns the wrong way.

Best way i can think to over come it is put your camera in, pull out the screw driver and move the housing to a move comfortable position with the shutter closer to the right side of the tray.

-Mike

Best way i can think to over come it is put your camera in, pull out the screw driver and move the housing to a move comfortable position with the shutter closer to the right side of the tray.

-Mike

Hi Mike,

Yes, this is soooooo much of a pain! I could do that with the screwdriver, but when I'm on a boat or doing some shore diving, everyone is always waiting on me if I do that.

I can stick my hand between the housing and the right handle, but it is tight and defeats the whole handle thing.

you only have to do position the housing on the tray once; or do you often separate the tray and the housing ?

you could try shaping one of those plastic corks into an oval, and making a small hole off centre. that you could squeeze over the existing assembly. I didnt try it myself, but that should be possible without it turning under pressure (although that is still a risk)

also, the rod you push while pressing the shutter screws loose from the knob on the outside. modificatio of that, does not influence waterproofness.

PS or grow longer finger nails :-)

I can see the problem - yuck that does not look great.

The Ike try is desinged that way because if the arms were any closer to the housing the latches would not be able to open without removing the arms. I'd like to be able to turn mine so that its operable by pulling the lever twards the camera body (horazontally) rather than the pushing down which is awkward to do while holding something else.

Well I know looks can be deceiving (just ask my missus) but the distance in the picture looks a lot larger than on my D200 housing. What is the dimension from the enge of the arm to the edge of the housing ?

Ike use the same casting for the tray across the range as far as I can see, so when you have a smaller housing you end up with a big space!.

Also from the look of it the control rotates anti-clockwise to trigger - please confirm. This would mean that the button that it is engaging is on the back panel side of the arm spindle rather than on the port side as is the case on the D200.

Looks to be as though there are a number of options but two of them include

1: Re drill the tray so that the whole thing is closer to the RH arm.

2: Machine up a new - longer - control knob - use the existing rod.

I am away on a trip myself from the end of the week until the end of the month but if you want to supply me a few dimensions I can turn one up when I get back (I have a full machine shop).

Alternatively I can just draw it up on CAD and post the drawing someplace and you can get a part made locally.

Paul C

A faster solution: TAke out the black rubber cover on the knob, unscrew it and bend it 90°. Screw it again and replace the cover.

There you go.

Paul,

Drilling new holes is not an option because then I could not get the right latch open because of the handle. I dont want to have to unscrew the housing every time to get it open!

The shutter release is the spring (hiding behind the hotshoe ttl thing) and it is L shaped--the short end of the L is rubber tipped that hits the release. It is closer to the front of the housing than the back.

Option 2 is a possibility........are you thinking doing a mod on the knob itself as opposed to the lever? I just need to be sure that it is restorable to the original state as I am sure someday I will upgrade the camera. It is almost like the lever needs to be on the opposite side of the round dial and over to the right, closer to my index finger--or longer and closer to the handle so my thumb can control it. Ideally I would like to have my hand around the handle and able to trigger the release easily with my thumb or indexd finger.

I am also traveling and will not be home until Friday to get you those measurements....I am happy to pay you for any mod you can do for me! Let me know what you think.

I dont think bending it 90 degrees would be long enough still, and my nails are too long as it is! I file my index and thumb way down on a dive trip just so I can operate the buttons on the housing....

Personally I really liked the bend it idea. If you do that though realise that the shutter will be harder to depress because you will loose the moment arm (leverage). You might think about another idea. How about putting a small cable clamp on the shaft so that it extends outboard. One of these little guys

They make all kinds of sizes and it would be easy to put on. Local hardware store would have them. They will look at you funny when you walk around the store with your housing. (I know) You might have to put a couple of cheap o-rings under it to get the shutter rod diameter up to size so it wouldn't rotate on you. Heck if it works you'll be out less than a dollar.

Steve

Drilling new holes is not an option because then I could not get the right latch open because of the handle. I dont want to have to unscrew the housing every time to get it open!

Quite agree - but we need that the dimension between the handle and the housing to confirm - I suspect that it could be closed down somewhat before you got to the 'can't open the box' stage.

The shutter release is the spring (hiding behind the hotshoe ttl thing) and it is L shaped--the short end of the L is rubber tipped that hits the release. It is closer to the front of the housing than the back.

Ok so basically the knob rotates clockwise to fire - same as my D200 housing.

Option 2 is a possibility........are you thinking doing a mod on the knob itself as opposed to the lever? I just need to be sure that it is restorable to the original state as I am sure someday I will upgrade the camera. It is almost like the lever needs to be on the opposite side of the round dial and over to the right, closer to my index finger--or longer and closer to the handle so my thumb can control it. Ideally I would like to have my hand around the handle and able to trigger the release easily with my thumb or indexd finger.

This would be my preferred option if it were mine.

All of the Ike controls are similar in construction - I would suggest that we just make up a replacement knob that can be fitted in place of the current one, leaving the current shaft and seals in place. This would also allow you to return it all to standard at any point in the future.

I am also traveling and will not be home until Friday to get you those measurements....I am happy to pay you for any mod you can do for me! Let me know what you think.

As long as you cover material costs I will do it for free and post the drawing up on the web as I don't need requests for more of them - to be honest it will take longer to draw than to make! If the material comes out at more than a few dollars I will be gutted.

I dont think bending it 90 degrees would be long enough still, and my nails are too long as it is! I file my index and thumb way down on a dive trip just so I can operate the buttons on the housing....

Did not like the bend idea myself, but whatever.

The dimensions that I will need are on this drawing :-

here.

Metric or Imperial is fine - and 'D' is only for confirmation and to avoid surprises later. Given these dimensions I can draw it properly. Don't worry about getting dimensions 'spot on' - I can sort that out.

If you drop me an email (link on the web site in sig) then I will remember when I get back at the end of the month - otherwise chances are I will forget!

Paul C

Hi Paul,

I think the knob actually depresses the shutter in a counter-clockwise direction....from looking at the pic I attached earlier, I would be depressing it towards you if you were looking at the pic...I wanted to be sure of that!

I wanted to make myself clear...I will send additional pics indicating everything! I will get my husband to assist me with the measurements also.

I SO MUCH appreciate it and will send an email at the end of the month.

Many many thanks!

Quite agree - but we need that the dimension between the handle and the housing to confirm - I suspect that it could be closed down somewhat before you got to the 'can't open the box' stage.

I've tried with my ike housing (its a Nikon p5000. but the dementions are very close). It IS possible to move it closer to be more comfortable, but the distance between the latch when open and the handle is less than 1/4" meaning moving the housing to the right more than a quarter of an inch will block the latch from opening completely. for me its enough only to make it slightly more comfortable on land but I didnt notice much of a difference underwater without butting it up against the handle.

-Mike

Mike,

Definitely a problem! I can get my hand in between the right handle and the housing, and comfortably reach the shutter release that way, but then the whole rig is then unstable for me.

I am trying 2 strobes this year and quite frankly I am wondering if I am going to be able (or willing) to handle it.

The thing weighs a ton! Underwater isnt too bad, but jeez on land it is a monster. Just not sure I want to do this--we will see if the 2nd strobe is an improvement or not--if not, BYE BYE NOW! With just one strobe, reaching the release is not an issue.

Mike,

 

Definitely a problem! I can get my hand in between the right handle and the housing, and comfortably reach the shutter release that way, but then the whole rig is then unstable for me.

 

I am trying 2 strobes this year and quite frankly I am wondering if I am going to be able (or willing) to handle it.

 

The thing weighs a ton! Underwater isnt too bad, but jeez on land it is a monster. Just not sure I want to do this--we will see if the 2nd strobe is an improvement or not--if not, BYE BYE NOW! With just one strobe, reaching the release is not an issue.

I think Steve has a good idea. Rather than try to bend anything, just add a piece onto the lever to make it wider. Kind of like turning it into a paddle shifter (if you are familiar with steering wheel shifters on cars) . . .

I think Steve has a good idea. Rather than try to bend anything, just add a piece onto the lever to make it wider. Kind of like turning it into a paddle shifter (if you are familiar with steering wheel shifters on cars) . . .

Definitely worth taking a look at I think. Maybe I will go down to the local hardware store and see what they have this weekend. Ill post what I found there.

Definitely worth taking a look at I think.

Steve

The hard part will be rigging it up so it doesn't slip(rotate). That shutter knob rod looks very slick. You might try putting some focus gear tape under the "paddle" if you need to bring it out so you can clamp it tight enough so it won't slip on you. Try to make it pretty robust. You don't want to have to baby it. When the Manta comes out of the gloom with a mermaid on his back you might get so excited that you could to hit the shutter pretty hard. Good luck!

 

Steve

You are too funny! If it were me seeing something like that, I would drop the camera and get on its back as well! Forget the pics!

The knob rod has a plastic sleeve of some kind on it, it is actually kind of rubbery--I think it is the same material that my port cap is--that might be a good thing!