Ikelite Dual Sync Cable

yes... I seem to find them under "bend restictors" and also " wire strain relief". But I am trying to find a source that would sell a "snap on" model as I obviously don't want to disassemble the cord to put them on. I am flipping thru catalogs here at work and doing websearch, but are only finding the "slide on" kind. I would like ot to be faily long (2 inches maybe) and flexible as it won't do much good if you just move the kink further away. Would rather create a long gradual bend. I am thiniking "scuba hose protector length".... I will post if I find something satisfying and hope thatif someone sees such a product they will post it.

I have not seen "snap on" models. What you may be able to do is buy ones just like those supplied with the new Ikelite cables and slice them open with a sharp knife, fit them over the cable and then secure them with small cable ties. That's what I plan to do.

Yes, small cabel ties - good idea. Or use some small spaced out drops of contact adhesive. I think I will be raiding the closet of old applicances tonight, maybe even swing by the local fleemarket tomorrow.

how about shrink wrap over the top of them?

how about shrink wrap over the top of them?

I thought for sure that someone by now would have pulled out the duct tape and made a "custom" boot!

how about shrink wrap over the top of them?

Shrink wrap or heat shrink? I had considered using heat shrink but I have not been able to find any large enough to fit over the knobs on the connectors. I also wonder if something that large would shrink enough.

If the cable ties don't work, I'll go with duct tape. I have already found that 6mm clear flexible tubing works quite well. I cut a length of around 20mm, split it open, fitted it around the cable at the connector and then wrapped it in duct tape. Worked fine for a dive last weekend.

If you do find heat shrink large enough to slip over the connector, it likely won't shrink enough to satisfactorily 'fix' the position of the restrictor - at least not at the cord end.

I'd think the split-and-cable-tie option is the best bet - I'd be worried about how long contact adhesive really lasts with saltwater exposure, on top of which these bend restrictors don't really provide mechanical support unless they're firmly held closed. Some sort of 'rubber cement' that let it flex open and shut would be significantly downrating its actual mechanical protection. Duct tape is probably doing the same thing- allowing too much expansion to get the full mechanical advantage. I like the clear tubing idea though.

Y'all have me worried now...I've only got the one dual sync cord, bought used from a fellow wetpixelite. Did not have a problem with it on my first big trip, but wasn't terribly 'cautious' about not bending the ends. In fact my DS51's lost the screws that held them onto the ball-head adaptors and tended to slide off the 'rail'-like assembly and dangle by the cord sometimes, until I came up with folding a bandaid over them to provide extra friction as an in-trip repair. Will add a dispenser of teflon tape to my kit for next time - wrap that around the rails to provide some extra thickness to help wedge them in, but of course if I overdo it am I cracking open the strobe heads?

OK. I may need some help here. I managed to get the unscrew the metal cap off the connector to reveal the cable going through a grommet to the connector. I can't work out how to get it apart further. I don't want to do any irreversible damage.

Take hold of the black part of the plug with the pins in it and pull it out of the metal casing...the metal casing and grommet all slides back as one unit over the cable...maybe lubricate the cable a little.

For those in the UK Cameras Underwater do sell the plugs as spares (have just ordered one for mine). They also sell the bulkhead connector (straight through version). They are enquiring as to if they can obtain the right-angled connector (they didnt see an yreason why not but they didnt stock them as standard). If so I shal order one of those and convert my housing to the right-angled connector

Martin

Take hold of the black part of the plug with the pins in it and pull it out of the metal casing...the metal casing and grommet all slides back as one unit over the cable...maybe lubricate the cable a little.

 

For those in the UK Cameras Underwater do sell the plugs as spares (have just ordered one for mine). They also sell the bulkhead connector (straight through version). They are enquiring as to if they can obtain the right-angled connector (they didnt see an yreason why not but they didnt stock them as standard). If so I shal order one of those and convert my housing to the right-angled connector

 

Martin

OK Cameras Underwater have been onto Ikelite and it seems that the angled bulkhead connector is a factory fit only item so looks like I stay with what I have....mind you a mate has the angled connector on his housing and the leads still get buggered...maybe the new leads will solve the problem.....

Martin

OK Cameras Underwater have been onto Ikelite and it seems that the angled bulkhead connector is a factory fit only item so looks like I stay with what I have....mind you a mate has the angled connector on his housing and the leads still get buggered...maybe the new leads will solve the problem.....

 

Martin

Familiar problem, I had to resolder my cable a couple of times as well, it becomes shoter every time.

I also always take my solderkit on holiday.

For straight bulkheads, I designed this solution and it works great. A friend of mine has them in production.

They are sold here for €16 (no profits, just productioncosts):

http://www.scubacam.nl/catalog/product_inf...amp;language=en

We are working on a 90' bulkhead.

OK... me again.

 

I have moved the grommet and exposed the wires.

 

 

 

Do I remove the pins from the connector? If so, how? If not, how do I fix the wiring?

 

D'oh... I worked it out. You pull them out.

how did you remove the grommet? does it slides out from under the metal connector? my grommet feels like it is attached to the metal connector. it wont budge!

how did you remove the grommet? does it slides out from under the metal connector? my grommet feels like it is attached to the metal connector. it wont budge!

It's been well over 12 months, but if I remember correctly I didn't remove the grommet but just moved to back so I could get to the wires.

ok. i figured it out. my connector must be different. my grommet is attached to the connector and cannot be pulled back. it is like a rubber compression fitting. the black plastic housing with pins can only come out in the direction away from the wire-out the front of the connector.

i had to cut the wire close to the grommet, and push the wire through the grommet and pull the black pin housing out the front.

before reassembly, i slipped on surgical tubing and two sizes of heat shrink tubing. one that goes over the metal end cap and surgical tubing, and a shorter piece to go over the surgical tubing and cord, since the larger tubing wont shrink down tightly over the cord. i hope this minimizes the bending.

I had used the Ikelite dual sync cord for several years now. I never had any problem with them during local dives. But once a year, in those live aboard trip, they fail me, they usually fail toward the end of the trip. But every year, they fail consistenly. Everytme after they fail, I sent them back to Iketlite, they will send me a new one. I don't know if ti's because it's under warantee or they are just nice, free of charge. Every year, I got a new sync cord ! The last replacment from early this year looks better but I didn't get to use them any more.

OK... me again.

 

I have moved the grommet and exposed the wires.

 

 

 

Do I remove the pins from the connector? If so, how? If not, how do I fix the wiring?

 

D'oh... I worked it out. You pull them out.

Hi Guys,

I went to try to repair by dual sync cord last night and hit a hurdle. After removing the rubber gromit and exposing the wires, you see that the wires enter through small individual holes in the back of the black pin connector( see andrews pic above). There are no signs of how the wires are fixed to the pins, whether they are soldered or just pushed into these holes. I gave one wire a tugg but it seemed fairly well fixed to the pins within the connector assembly. In the pic above, you can see a small dividing line about a few mills below the gold pins. It seems that this is the joining point for the connector to come apart into two sections. Does anyone know if you need to crack this seal to access the solder points for the wires? Any advice on how to reattach the wires to the pins?

cheers,

Peter

Hi Guys,

 

I went to try to repair by dual sync cord last night and hit a hurdle. After removing the rubber gromit and exposing the wires, you see that the wires enter through small individual holes in the back of the black pin connector( see andrews pic above). There are no signs of how the wires are fixed to the pins, whether they are soldered or just pushed into these holes. I gave one wire a tugg but it seemed fairly well fixed to the pins within the connector assembly. In the pic above, you can see a small dividing line about a few mills below the gold pins. It seems that this is the joining point for the connector to come apart into two sections. Does anyone know if you need to crack this seal to access the solder points for the wires? Any advice on how to reattach the wires to the pins?

 

cheers,

 

Peter

Also, has anyone got any tricks for getting the rubber grommet back into the metal casing without doing damage to it?

I've got one of the newer versions of the 4103.51 cables -mine has a rubber bend restricter on the cable to prevent it bening and cables inside coming loose. However I have lost continuity on the middle pin so want to repair it.

I can't get the rubber grommet out despite the advice on this thread and over on DiveOz. I have sadliy managed to damage the grommet on one end trying to get it out so I'll need a new one but I'd like to try and get the one out of the other end with out damaging it. Is there an easy way?

On 6/2/2008 at 9:00 AM, ATJ said:

It seems Ikelite have been listening! I received a new dual cable today (ordered Thursday night and delivered Monday afternoon to Australia - pretty damn good) and the have caps on (most of) the parts of the cable that can get kinked.

 

Housing end:

 

Strobe ends:

 

They haven't protected the cables coming out of the splitter, though:

Any tips and tricks how to easy open splitter ?, checked already cables by multimeter and looks like only one sync cabel need to be changed