Tokina AT-X AF 10-17mm f3.5-4.5 DX Fisheye

Mine were shot using a Canon Rebel Xti in an Ikelite housing with twin DS125 strobes.

The 10-17mm has been a favourite of mine for a while now - so I really have a lot of images from it that I like. For those who want to read a bit, here is a link to an article on my website.

 

Like any 180 degree full frame fisheye the 10-17mm at 10mm is an ideal UW wide angle lens. Excellent for close focus wide angle, wide scenics, reef scenes and diver + scenery shots:

 

Here is a typical CFWA:

 

And a bigger scenic:

 

It can be hard to create space underwater, while still being close enough to a subject to get good colour, contrast and clarity. The 10mm end of the 10-17mm is ideal for this:

 

 

Same lens, same subject, excellent flexibility:

 

To be able to take both of these shots while still in the camera to subject distance sweet-spot for the lens (i.e. not having to back off too far) is awesome.

 

Perhaps the greatest benefit of the zoom is that it turns the fisheye into a great big creature lens. The 10.5mm is often just a bit too wide - and can be frustrating is subjects don't come close enough. Being able to zoom in a bit helps fill the frame giving the portrait more impact. It also lessens the tadpole effect (big head, tiny body) that you get with the 10.5mm (or just the 10mm end) when the subject does come right up to the camera. And you have the flexibility of being able to zoom either way as you need.

 

This one is a little bit tadpoley, but not too bad.

 

Big creature, frame filled.

 

Sharks can easily tapdpole with fisheyes, but the 10-17mm at around 13-15mm just seems so ideal for these subjects:

 

And finally, as long as you can get close, the close focusing allows you to shoot small to medium sized subjects:

 

 

which is particularly useful in low viz areas, like here in the UK:

 

Alex

were diopters used for any of these shots alex. i have just purchased the 10-17 and will be heading out to elphinstone and the brothers in a few weeks time and will be shooting with just the 10-17 leaving all my other lenses at home.

cracking shots, BTW. that sea lion is just sweet

One of the many reasons I love this lens; close, close focus. I don't believe this picture could have been done with any other lens. This guy was in a hole as big as he is with two entrance points - one big enough for my domeport and one big enough for one strobe. Lens at 17mm, and his head is probably 6" from my dome. Stu, this lens will not take diopters, and even filters have to be taped to the back. Alex showed this in an earlier posting on the lens.

One of the many reasons I love this lens; close, close focus. I don't believe this picture could have been done with any other lens. This guy was in a hole as big as he is with two entrance points - one big enough for my domeport and one big enough for one strobe. Lens at 17mm, and his head is probably 6" from my dome. Stu, this lens will not take diopters, and even filters have to be taped to the back. Alex showed this in an earlier posting on the lens.

cheers for that, i guess it is a case of getting close and then getting closer. i cant wait for it to be delivered so i can have a play with it. i have a party booked on the river thames in a couple of weeks time so will hopefully get some use of it then. topside of course. i dont think however great the 10-17 is, it wont be any good in the thames.

i have been doing a fair bit of work with my strobe positioning in my lounge today and after reading and reading and reading even more, i am hoping i have finally started to get the hang of strobe positioning, and how vital it is. i added another pair of 6" ultralights to my rig today and the strobe positioning looked good on my 10-22mm.

hopefully i will get a few good shots in october and be able to show some of on here.

? I know that most people are using this lens on crop sensor cameras, but will this lense work on a full frame camera or will i have to look at another lens to use?

? I know that most people are using this lens on crop sensor cameras, but will this lense work on a full frame camera or will i have to look at another lens to use?

This lens is not designed for full frame. On my Nikon D700 at 17mm the full frame is seen, down to about 14mm where it starts to vignette. Nikon DX lenses will automatically crop the frame in camera, but this is not the case with the Tokina and most likely other non-Nikon DX lenses. 3 quick pics at 17, 14, and 10

loftus

thanks for the demo photos, i need to narrow the focus of the question then. Any Canon FF shooters use this lens?

great shots guys, what is the optimum port set up for this lens? there was talk of extensions, were they on the port or the lens it's self? and what size dome suits best. i'm thinking of changing over my tolk 12-24 (nik d200) for this one as i'm not that thrilled with it's performance behind it's recomended ikelite port.

ta

Does anyone know of software or PS plugin that will straighten the images from this lens? Have just got one and it's a lovely lens - would just like to be able to straighten some of the shots. Thanks for any help.

Does anyone know of software or PS plugin that will straighten the images from this lens? Have just got one and it's a lovely lens - would just like to be able to straighten some of the shots. Thanks for any help.

Take a look at PTlens, the programmer constantly updates the list of lenses covered with the program.

You have you remember thought that in order to straighten lines you will loose edge data.

I don't now have call to use any other underwater unless it's a 105mm macro.

Does anyone know of software or PS plugin that will straighten the images from this lens? Have just got one and it's a lovely lens - would just like to be able to straighten some of the shots. Thanks for any help.

Here you have one:

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26764

Does anyone know of software or PS plugin that will straighten the images from this lens? Have just got one and it's a lovely lens - would just like to be able to straighten some of the shots. Thanks for any help.

Hey Steve

What camera are you using your new lens on ?

Hey Steve

What camera are you using your new lens on ?

have put desposit on the 5d mkii but in the meantime I got a cheapo 350d to play with...don't you have one of those paparazzi nikon things?

Take a look at PTlens, the programmer constantly updates the list of lenses covered with the program.

You have you remember thought that in order to straighten lines you will loose edge data.

Ahh this looks interesting - haven't seen this one before! Thanks very much, shall take a look.

I don't now have call to use any other underwater unless it's a 105mm macro.

Well Bantin who asked you anyway? Actually you were about to get an email...

Here you have one:

 

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26764

Cheers fella, will take a look at this as well.

Wow! you guys are doing awesome work.

Here's my problem, I just started using the Tokina 10-17 in an Ikelite housing and my photos don't look as sharp as what I see here, I'm using the recommended 5510.11 (2.75in) extension but I believe my lens protrudes into the 8in. dome a bit too far (?)

Also, my 10-17 is not auto-focus, I had no idea when I ordered it, I thought they all were.

Any ideas? the next extension is 3.5 in.

What are you all using with ikelite housing?

Any help would be great. Thanks. Xman

The Tokina 10-17 has featured auto-focus since day one. If your lens does not feature it, it is because it is either broken, or the camera mode for auto focus is off or broken, or you have a Tokina knock-off which I have never seen one of the those.

What camera are you using it on? If it does not have an AF motor (like some Nikons), the lens will not AF

Adam

Crap, Adam you're correct, I just learned my DX camera will not autofocus with this lens and it's why I've been pre-focussing for underwater photography.(and controlling the zoom)

But my pics are still a bit soft at all distances, so it's not my set focus.

I still believe my lens does not fall in behind the 8in dome at the proper distance.

Anyone else using this set-up in Ikelite housing? Thanks guys