Temp of color using two strobe's z-240 in a Nikon D80

Hello

i am using a external converter for TTL (HeinrichsWeikamp), i have a Nikon D80 camera and i am using two strobe's Inon Z-240, and when i start to use the second one, my photos have a "strange"color.

i'd like to know, in the white balance, what temperature should i put?

thank you

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

5500-5600K is a good starting point for Inons. Alex

Hi Bernardo,

What type of strange colour do you get?

I have the same setup. I can however not say that I get strange colours when I add the 2nd Strobe.

I just let the Camera do the "Auto" WB and then I correct it in Capture NX if needed. That works fine for me.

A rather elegant solution would be to have Grey fins, that can be photographed everynow and be used as a Greyscale.

/Erik

5500-5600K is a good starting point for Inons. Alex

Hello Alex,

that was my start, and when i was using one strob that works just fine, but know i have more dificulties to understand the color in the photo

this photo is with one flash

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1tzRjEszJ0M/SLBJ...-h/DSC_5385.jpg

and that one is with two

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_1tzRjEszJ0M/SL7c...-h/DSC_5632.jpg

can you see the diference in the yellow?

thank you

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

Hi Bernardo,

 

What type of strange colour do you get?

 

I have the same setup. I can however not say that I get strange colours when I add the 2nd Strobe.

I just let the Camera do the "Auto" WB and then I correct it in Capture NX if needed. That works fine for me.

 

A rather elegant solution would be to have Grey fins, that can be photographed everynow and be used as a Greyscale.

 

 

/Erik

Hello Erik

see this picture take with one flash

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1tzRjEszJ0M/SJ3u...-h/DSC_5076.jpg

and that one, shoot with two

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1tzRjEszJ0M/SML8...-h/DSC_5739.jpg

can you see that the green is note so vivid?

thank you

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

The second images do seem to have some issues. Not sure that it is all down to white balance, though.

How does the camera perform shooting them same subjects (single and dual strobe) on land?

Alex

The second images do seem to have some issues. Not sure that it is all down to white balance, though.

 

How does the camera perform shooting them same subjects (single and dual strobe) on land?

 

Alex

i never tried on land to shoot with one, only

i tried with two and the results are not conclusive, i tried in some flowers in my garden, but the light conditions are diferent

i shoot always in manual, iso=100, wb= 5600ºK.

i dont realy understand what is happening...

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

I am also not really sure what the issue is. In the 4th Pic, 5739, the right hand flash is perhaps a bit stronger than the left hand. The distance seems short enough for TTL to work in all 4 cases.

I would take land pictures of the same topic with 1 resp. 2 Strobes and compare them, just as Alex suggests.

/Erik

thank you all

i will try it and then i will came back

once again, thank you

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

Hello again

o forget to tell that one oh the strobes is type II and the other one is type III, but i do not think that can cause the diference.

if i shoot to close of the subject, wiht two strobe's, the TTL do not work (+/- 5cm) in land. Underwater it work's perfect (but the color is not god as i told before)

the arms have 30 cm long

i shoot wiht a lense nikon 18-55mm and a 105mm and use a barbolight 04 as a focus light

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

I can not really imagine that type II or III makes a big difference, for this issue. Mine are both of Type II.

Hmm, I was just having a look at the Pic 5632. It might be a stupid idea, but are you sure that the Strobes fired?

/Erik

I can not really imagine that type II or III makes a big difference, for this issue. Mine are both of Type II.

 

Hmm, I was just having a look at the Pic 5632. It might be a stupid idea, but are you sure that the Strobes fired?

 

 

/Erik

Not such a stupid idea Erik.

When I first looked at the second photo in each sequence I thought the same thing.

None of the colors are showing strobe influence at all. . . . IMHO

Bruce...

Seems to me that by adding the second strobe you are losing contrast. To me, on my monitor, uncalibrated iMac, the colors look fine. But, by adding the second strobe you lose the depth and shadowing. If perhaps you could turn one of the strobes down by a couple of stops.

I use the S&S TTL III with dual YS-110's and have the same problems as you. It is a problem I'm trying to overcome as well, and it happens when I pull back from my macro shots on the same subject and on CFWA shots if I'm too far away to make the TTL effective.

I can not really imagine that type II or III makes a big difference, for this issue. Mine are both of Type II.

 

Hmm, I was just having a look at the Pic 5632. It might be a stupid idea, but are you sure that the Strobes fired?

 

 

/Erik

Hello Erik

it's not a stupid idea, but i use both in TTL so i think both fired, could be bad oriented??

this photo was shot F/10, and 1/100. it was a night dive, maybe i shoud use F/>10?

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

Not such a stupid idea Erik.

When I first looked at the second photo in each sequence I thought the same thing.

None of the colors are showing strobe influence at all. . . . IMHO

 

Bruce...

Hello Bruce

is it possible config camera settings to change that? or could be because bad orientation of the strob's?

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

Seems to me that by adding the second strobe you are losing contrast. To me, on my monitor, uncalibrated iMac, the colors look fine. But, by adding the second strobe you lose the depth and shadowing. If perhaps you could turn one of the strobes down by a couple of stops.

 

I use the S&S TTL III with dual YS-110's and have the same problems as you. It is a problem I'm trying to overcome as well, and it happens when I pull back from my macro shots on the same subject and on CFWA shots if I'm too far away to make the TTL effective.

Hello IMSushi

i do not know if it possible turn one of the strobes down a cuople of stops, because, as i said, both are connected to the external converter.

your connection is electrical or optical?

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

Hello Alex,

 

that was my start, and when i was using one strob that works just fine, but know i have more dificulties to understand the color in the photo

 

this photo is with one flash

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1tzRjEszJ0M/SLBJ...-h/DSC_5385.jpg

 

and that one is with two

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_1tzRjEszJ0M/SL7c...-h/DSC_5632.jpg

can you see the diference in the yellow?

 

thank you

 

Rui Bernardo

 

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

Looks like the second image is not lit? Perhaps your strobes don't synchronize to the camera properly? Do you have the 'adv. curcuit'-button on the Z-240:s pushed in?

/christian

Looks like the second image is not lit? Perhaps your strobes don't synchronize to the camera properly? Do you have the 'adv. curcuit'-button on the Z-240:s pushed in?

 

/christian

Hello Christian,

yes i do, because if i does not have it pushed, the z-240 does not work wiht the Nikon D80.

as soon as i get home, i am going to try to shot wiht one and then wiht two strobes, as Alex said...

and then i will show the pics...

i have try every thing i know, because i do not understand what can happened...

that's why i put the question is this forum...

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/

Hi again Bernardo,

Bruce: Thanks

You can actually limit the max allowed Strobe dump, by having the advanced cancel circuit pushed in and switching from STTL to M -0,5 to -6. It is supposed to be for Film Cameras with TTL, but it seems to work.

Back to the Pic 5632. If it was a night dive F10, 1/100s and assumed ISO100. Then Contrast seems too low for a strobe hitting it. What was actually your ISO Setting?

/Erik

Hi again Bernardo,

 

Bruce: Thanks

 

You can actually limit the max allowed Strobe dump, by having the advanced cancel circuit pushed in and switching from STTL to M -0,5 to -6. It is supposed to be for Film Cameras with TTL, but it seems to work.

 

Back to the Pic 5632. If it was a night dive F10, 1/100s and assumed ISO100. Then Contrast seems too low for a strobe hitting it. What was actually your ISO Setting?

 

 

/Erik

hi Erik

i always set the iso to iso 100.

Rui Bernardo

http://rbernardo.blogspot.com/