This is really long… but I can't rest until I respond to this in detail!
I suppose I should thank Tom Witt for this opportunity. bmyates is right.. this gives me (and others) a good chance to point out what is good about Raja Ampat and these special trips. I'm viewing this as an excellent opportunity for good promo.. the more places he posts it, the better!!
TRIP RESEARCH
Tom's is one opinion, coming from a man who didn't take advantage of the webpages, newsletters, articles, galleries, links to previous guests galleries or the private 18 page trip FAQ to research this trip before he booked for himself and two friends. More on this at the end of my post...
Those documents explain that the trips are targeted toward photographers and to those who like to dive like the photographers. They explain about the days of open deck diving where we stay and allow divers to dive as much as they like and when they like; the diversity of marine life; the variety of environments we dive, such as the shallow sites Tom dislikes so immensely.
Check them yourself as they are all linked from my trip webpage:
www.cityseahorse.com/rajaampat
My trips are not for everyone. I always write "If you want to dive deep, go fast and do a different site on every dive, these trips are not for you".
I DO go to great lengths to describe what the trip is about. In addition to those readily available documents, I answer any and all questions from potential guests in great detail. Tom didn't ask questions... again details on this at the end of my post.
I request info from each guest so I can tailor the trip and weed out unsuitable divers. Unsuitable meaning those who aren't compatible with other divers or the type of trip I run. Tom didn't provide adequate information about his requirements or expectations.
I think it's just too bad that when Tom discovered he was on an expensive trip that wasn't what he expected, he couldn't have been open minded enough to find out the reason his shipmates were having a great time. Perhaps he could have learned something from the other divers or guides. Already several people from the Nov trips are planning to return and liked the idea of a 14 day trip so we can spend more days on the favorite dive sites.
Linda Cline already has a gallery from Nov. (and some nice comments about her trip with us) on her site:
http://www.dancingfish.com/gallery/photos/RajaAmpat08/
PASSIVE, SEDATE, COMPLACENT OR SHEEPLIKE DIVERS?
This is the phrase that really got to me!!! For SURE very few of the divers on these trips are "passive, sedate, complacent or sheep-like".
The other divers on the same trip as Tom's group certainly could not be described as such. I can assure you that they were not passive, but passionate! They explored, were creative, their minds were open to a variety of experiences so they enjoyed these very diverse sorts of dive sites and the opportunity to see those sites under different conditions.
They were a pleasure to be around.
While Tom sulked in his cabin his shipmates were spending time underwater, seeing unexplored areas they wanted to dive (so we arranged for them to go there), making beautiful images at the surface in the mangroves, finding places to do over/under images , seeing nudibranch species we've never found before, watching cuttlefish placing eggs in the reef, etc. etc. and enjoying their trip for the tremendous variety of environments and life that exist in Raja Ampat.
It wasn't until Tom's post on this forum that I realized he was probably sulking. I thought he was one of those people that was not comfortable being around other people. We've had several like that aboard.
VARIETY OF DIVING EXPERIENCES
I think of each Raja Ampat trip as a chance to make your own mini-Blue Planet documentary in 11-12 days.
I advertise my charters as offering a lot of variety with mangroves, shallow reef and rainforest dives, piers, mantas, small critter macro, fishy reef dives, dives on rock islands. That is what we do. All of it. Unless the majority of guests aboard want to do something different, I provide what I advertise. On Tom's trip everyone wanted to spend more dives with mantas, so I adjusted the plan to provide that.
There is no set itinerary. Each trip is tailored according to the conditions of weather, visibility, strength and direction of currents. We even vary mealtimes to accommodate diving at the best times. On Tom's trip the visibility was not as good as usual. So we spent the first part of the trip in areas where good vis doesn't matter so much, hoping for improvement. Didn't get it, but we did try! Usually we can find good vis by moving from the north to south or vice versa. Not this time. Universally poor.
Although we spend a full day on some sites, we don't dive the same areas seeing exactly the same things unless requested (which does happen frequently). Most of these sites are huge with a large and diverse variety of scenes and marine life to enjoy and photograph. The experience on a site changes during the day with the direction and strength of current and sun, tidal flow, etc. Just because you dive a site several times doesn't mean you have seen all it has to offer. I spend multiple days at some of them every year. There are still parts of them I've never seen and there are always new and surprising experiences even after 10 years.
Sure, you can blow down a reef in a few minutes; say you've BTDT and tic it off your lifetime dive site list. But if you become interested in watching or photographing the marine life and move slowly the experience is much richer and you see much more than if you are speeding along.
Comments were from others on the Nov. trips are that the variety of sites and marine life on this trip were far more than on any other trip they've ever made.
KEELING IN MUCK FOR SHOT OF NEMO?
Deep doesn't mean better.. it just means deeper and less bottom time. We do spend quite a lot of time at shallow sites. Those are some of the best sites and the reason we can offer so much variety. For example in Nov. at 10ft and above I encountered: reef sharks, Wobbegong sharks, the "Walking Sharks", seahorses, pygmy seahorses, many species of nudibranchs including 2 I'd never seen before; schools of silversides, bream, fusiliers and batfish; archerfish schools and cleaning stations, turtles, many soft corals, black corals and colorful fans… Really far too many creatures to name here.
Those sites Tom specifically berated are exactly the ones where most of the best images are made. Most photographers have trouble passing up an attractive "Nemo", I know I do, but these photographers weren't "kneeling in 35 feet on a mundane, ordinary reef dive after dive for yet one more photo of Nemo", they spent their trip swimming through and exploring a huge variety of underwater terrain while watching and photographing a diverse array of interesting and usual marine life.
One example. That shallow pier Tom mentioned happens to be one of the favorite sites for photography. Others on the Nov. trips produced images at that pier that ranged from stunning to breathtaking and I expect to see them taking top prizes in International UW photo competitions. Even Tom's non-photographer friend came made a very nice shot of mating Mandarianfish with his point and shoot camera (won a 2nd place in the trip contest) at that pier. One photog did a 2.5 hour dive. Couldn't get him out of the water! There were 6 dives offered that day. Two with mantas and four at the pier (pier was open deck). First two dives the pier had massive schools of bream and silversides, soft corals on the pier pilings, a fair sized school of approachable young batfish, large schools of several varieties of fusiliers, giant clams, cuttlefish at 5ft., nudibranchs. 2nd dive the kids were out of school so were fishing on the pier, paddling wooden canoes around the area and diving down to pose for photos. 3rd dive was for Mandarianfish (always a favorite subject), 4th pier dive was a night dive. All dives very different.
MISLEADING COMMENTS:
CABINS
"at least three of them had AC issues"
I will say that the AC units on Ondina are old and need replacing. My cruise director and I reported to the owners and they have instructed the crew to immediately replace any units that are not functioning correctly.
One compressor services two cabins. On this particular trip the AC in each cabin was checked before departure. Yet, on the 3nd day, one unit was sending all the cold air into one cabin and none into the other cabin it supported. We had an AC technician from a pearl farm come out for a look. He could not solve the problem so the guests were immediately moved into a different cabin. Problem solved. I took the cabin with no AC, added a fan and was quite comfortable. I learned the last day from Tom's cabin mate (not from Tom) that the fan in Tom's cabin wasn't pushing air properly… it was cold air, just fan not working. It was serviced between trips. Fan needed cleaning.
"and one of them had problems with fumes and exhaust from gasoline or diesel"
This was reported by Mark and Linda, who investigated when the problem occurred a second time. They determined that when at anchor with the breeze a certain direction it occasionally blew generator exhaust through the outside door into the cabin corridor where it came into their cabin through the vents in the door. Problem solved by keeping that outside door closed.
FOOD
"the food was seriously lacking. Fried something for almost every lunch and dinner. Instant noodles appeared more than once or twice".
If Tom doesn't eat fried food or noodles, there was ample opportunity to state his food preferences before and during the trip. There are other choices and the kitchen would have prepared something special for him if he asked. He asked only for "beer, cold, lots of it". As per his request we had plenty of beer!
Baked, steamed, raw, grilled, sautéed and boiled food also appeared. I'm not sure what fried food or noodle dish was a problem. Krupuk appeared at every meal (Indonesian version of potato chips). They are fried. I remember Tempura, a lightly breaded pan fried chicken breast stuffed with cheese and French Fries. Does fried include stir fried? Instant noodles? Not sure which noodles Tom' refers to. Ondina doesn't make noodles.. so all are "instant". Perhaps it was the Mie Kuah or the Mie Goreng? Those are standard Indonesian fare that most people like just fine and are some of our favorite dishes. As I said, there is always more than one choice.
Ondina doesn't offer gourmet food, just good tasting, quality food. I've noted in my years of travel that the best food is always local dishes, so that's the special menu I request unless guests' ask otherwise. We served mostly Indonesian dishes (Western style with less chilli and more meat/veggies) with some Western dishes mixed in. Excellent bread is baked every day on the ship as were fresh muffins, pastries. DOUGHNUTS are my favourite. Not the soaked in sugar goody masses of dough we get in the USA, but nice fresh slightly sweet ones with a few sprinkles of chocolate or sugar. There were different fresh soups at every dinner, sates, fresh salads (like green papaya, Gado Gado, mixed veggies), grilled fresh fish, sashimi, prawn and veggie Tempura, Beef Rendang, stuffed eggplants, some curries of different sorts, minced fish with spices steamed in a banana leaf, minced prawns or calamari with spices tied in a thin pastry bag, really good pizza, different freshly made sambals (chilli sauces) each day for those who like their food hot and spicy, etc. etc. Plus of course, always available fresh fruits like oranges, tangerines, mangosteen, passion fruit, rambutan, apples, bananas, pineapple, mango, papaya.
This menu has evolved over the years. We've eliminated dishes when the majority of people in the groups don't like them (even some of my personal favorites). Even when food it great, it sometimes doesn't suit everyone. Yet, I can't imagine choosing a dive trip based on the food. BTW, we can hardly find any restaurants in Fort Worth worth visiting. People here line up for plates containing huge quantities of microwaved tasteless glop at chain restaurants. We are sad to be home, but hope to lose some weight!
Comments from other guests served the same menu were that it was; the best liveaboard food they'd ever had; better than other top dive resorts in Indonesia (I could but won't name the specific resorts they mentioned.. they are ones noted for their good food); that they were overeating because it was all so wonderful.
DIVING
"Two entire days (10 hours per day), were spent at The Passage"
This is one of the favorite sites for most photographers. Actually we spent not two 10 hour days, but one short day (had to leave early as we had a long overnight cruise) and came back the last day as the site enforces shallow diving so that we can allow plenty of diving that last day before a flight the next. Max. depth averages 12-17ft. We used to spend only 1/2 day there, but the best images require certain conditions, so I am trying to offer a partial day mid-trip to have a better chance of getting those conditions.
"One day (four dives) at a small village pier. Depth about 15 to 45 feet."
Actually we did two manta dives in the morning (at the request of the divers aboard) and spent the afternoon at the pier. Depth 0-45ft. This was the pier I used as the example of different type of dives on the same site (see above).
"Another entire day (10 hours) was spent diving in a mangrove area."
That's true. It's a favorite spot, one that many divers request before booking the trip. I arranged the itinerary on the next trip so we could stay longer and yet several people asked to spend a second day. Unfortunately I could not oblige as they had requested we stayed two days at another area Tom hated and we needed to move or completely miss part of the diving around Misool. We are now talking with some of the Nov guests about a 14 day trip so we can spend more time at these favorite sites. Mangroves has excellent unusual wide angle photo ops.. plus loads of unusual nudis, ghost pipefish, odd fishes, shrimps, crabs, archerfish schools. I even found an archerfish cleaning station!
See my mangroves video from last April at http://www.cityseahorse.com/underwater-video
"the first afternoon spent on a checkout dive in Sorong harbor."
I've dived Sorong harbor. There is some nice diving for critters, but exceptionally poor vis. The 2004 Ondina contest winner was taken in Sorong harbor. However we didn't dive in Sorong harbor on this trip.
A few years ago Mikel took us exploring looking for good sites near Sorong. We found a good critter site just outside the harbor with zero to mild current, shallow. Perfect spot for checkout dives without going 5-6 hours to Raja Ampat and throwing divers into current for their checkout. Close means we can offer several dives the 1st day and then do the 5-6 hour cruise at night. On that site we've seen Wobbegong sharks, Raja Ampat epaulette sharks, Blue Ribbon eels, Spanish Dancers, frogfish with eggs!, anemones with a variety of anemonefish and loaded with shrimps and crabs, many nudibranchs, lobsters, eels, bommies covered with glassfish and cardinalfish, crinoid critters... it isn't Raja Ampat but it's loaded with stuff.
I translated 'open deck" to mean "lets save on our fuel costs".
In the quest to get to the best sites in good conditions we probably use more fuel than a set itinerary because we backtrack. (I hope the owners aren't reading this !! But if you do… hey guys we do try to save your fuel but not at the expense of the best diving.)
"A few friends and I repeatedly requested the lead dive master and cruise director for more sites like these but to noavail."
In the email with the invoice (3 divers) for the trip Tom received this paragraph: "I oversee everything on the trip and am the ultimate boss of it all. If, during the trip you have any problem with the ship, the crew, other passengers, the diving… whatever, please come to me directly. You can tell the crew if something needs repair, but also tell me so that I can follow up. Sometimes they do a repair and it doesn't "take", so I need to know if whatever problem you have is still not corrected. Then I can deal with it. For me, this is not a holiday. Although I do enjoy it and take some photos, my top priority is to be sure that divers in my group have a great trip."
During the ship briefing I again advised the group to come to me with any requests or problems so we could sort it out.
Tom and friends never made any requests to me about the diving. Not before or during the trip. I asked the cruise director if Tom requested anything from him. He didn't.
"It isn't about big fish. We saw just a handful of sharks, a few mantas, napoleon wrasse, jacks, and few other pelagics."
We saw fewer fish than usual on this trip, much less that in April/May. This was at least partially due to the poor visibility. I could often see large schools of fish faintly in the distance. Since Tom & friends skipped about ½ the dives, they may have missed the dives where we did see more sharks, larger and more fish. But for sure we dived a number of sites where you would never expect to see those sorts of things.
MY COMMENTS ON SMY ONDINA
I've visited many other ships I could charter. So far, I prefer SMY Ondina.
The crew is (as noted) excellent and stable. They are intelligent, skilled people. Many other ships go out with inexperienced crew that change every few months, new crew who don't know the area, poor and/or not enough dive guides (the reason I always check and add experienced guides). The other ships either aren't flexible, safe or are damaging the reefs. (Please don't misinterpret, I'm not bashing all other liveaboards… some ships are safe, not damaging reef, just aren't flexible enough to suit me. Others are for sure damaging reefs and I would NEVER charter one of them… and wish I could name them here). I've rejected all in Tom's list of recommended alternatives. Not that they aren't good ships, just not suitable to me for the small group, high guide/diver ratio, flexible, photography trips I want to run.
Ondina's owners and I work together to make the ship perform well for my (and their own) trips. Anyone who has been out with me knows that I always make a list of things that need improved, repaired or added to help make the next guests more comfortable or safe. The owners take my lists to heart and nearly all my suggestions are implemented before my return in about 6 months. The exception being our April 2008 trip - the one scorpio_fish was on. When I arrived I was appalled at the condition of the ship. I didn't see any reason to upset the guests, but at the end of that trip, I let the owners know that it was totally unacceptable and would be the end of my charters with them if it wasn't in shape before my May trip (4 days to prepare). I would cancel the other charters I had booked with them. It was mostly corrected. An unsuitable assistant cruise director/divemaster (Daniel) was fired at the end of my trips after I talked to Ric about him. There were a few things that couldn't be done in 3 days in Sorong but were done in September at mid-season dry dock.
Ondina isn't top luxury… (depends a bit on how you define "luxury") but it has an inside dive deck and wetsuit room with hot showers so that we and our dive gear isn't sitting in the sun, rain and wind; it has large dedicated camera rinse tanks right behind the camera table; it has cabins with plenty of storage space, lots of hooks, outlets for charging, individually controlled AC, ensuite bath; the ship is very stable and cabins are below deck so less seasickness; there are 3 public areas for relaxing; dive deck, camera table, charging and rinse is all on one level so cameras don't have to be carried up and down stairs; the food is excellent (according to most.. to me it is better than most any resort or restaurant in Bali for Indonesian cuisine);it is nearly insect free (always a couple of big bugs fly in.. and occasionally a few ants).
Sure, heated water for showers in cabins would be OK. The water is heated by the engine, so the first day or so after filling at port its cool, but after that, its bathwater temp, not cold, just not scalding. I guess while linen and crystal would be nice, but then I'd need to dress for dinner and that's a hardship after a night dive! Gourmet food? I have to ask the waitresses to put me on a "no seconds" diet as it is... and I doubt it would taste as good as the special Indonesian food we are served.
SUMMARY
It was very unfortunate that Tom had a bad experience. For all of us. It was also obvious to us that these 3 divers were on the wrong trip after only 2-3 days. The crew kept asking me why they were there. I fielded many complaints about the diving skills of these divers as they often created sandstorms and ruined photos by finning up the bottom in sandy or shallow areas. I didn't specifically see Tom doing that, only the other two so I asked the dive guides to stop them and point it out when they saw it happening plus it was addressed in the dive briefings several times.
I'm not a travel agent that simply charters a ship, collects the money and off you go! I put years of effort into learning the dive sites, checking out the ship before ever sending anyone on it and working constantly with the ship's owners to improve the ship's facilities and crew to make it easy, safe and comfortable for the divers aboard to relax and enjoy their holiday. I have worked with SMY Ondina's owners for years. They always take my suggestions to heart, nearly always implementing them and occasionally even improving on them 
On both Nov. 2009 trips the cruise director, 3 dive guides and special dive assistant/tender driver were freelance guides. They do not work for Ondina. They were there at my request with the permission and assistance of Ondina's owners. I've worked with them and the crew for 2-10 years. They know what I want for our guests so well that I seldom have to do anything except make a choice about the itinerary or time for a meal.
I don't want to minimize questions about my trips. I want to prevent unsuitable divers (those who will not be happy, who have medical problems, who are frightened of diving, etc.) from booking onto my trips!!!!! The trips are always full (fingers crossed with this economy). Unhappy divers are not fun to be around... plus they write awful things on forums! I'm always aboard and the last thing I want to do for 12 days is be stuck on a liveaboard with someone who is not happy, complains or is rude.
My trips aren't for everyone. I wish I could do a 100% perfect job of matching divers to my trips. I try, but once in a while I miss one (or 3). And I wish that visibility, fish and critters weren't so darned unpredictable so that everyone could see on an 11 day trip what I've seen in Raja Ampat over the past 10 years.
It is extremely disappointing and disenheartening to put so much effort into providing a special trip and then find a review like this online.
I hope readers who are interested in Raja Ampat or a dive/photographers' trip to Raja Ampat will review other data and not base their choices on the angry comments of a dissatisfied diver who didn't do his research.
DebF
Deb Fugitt
www.cityseahorse.com/rajaampat
TRIP RESEARCH - MORE DETAIL
Pre-trip Tom stated that he and his friends were experienced divers with more than 20 years experience. 2 photographers, 1 not. He didn't ask any questions about the trip or the diving, only joking (I thought) questions about whether we could find a coelacanth for him to photograph, if there is a Starbucks and free Wi-Fi in the Sorong hotel for our overnight there and serious questions about the air travel, and how much freedom he and his dive buddy would be given to dive. I reviewed all the communications I had with Tom... that's it.
I did try to get them to let me put the non-photographer on another dive tender with other non-photographers so I could assign a different guide who would do tours of the dive sites instead of critter spotting and going directly to the best photo ops. Tom's group preferred to be assigned together so I complied with their request.
I ask each diver to complete a form that includes their food requirements. In addition to asking about allergies and intolerances there is a box "Meal Preferences. List likes, dislikes, diets. For example, do you like spicy Indonesian food? Can't tolerate it? Love fish, Hate fish? Vegetarian? Etc.". Tom's request was "beer, cold, lots of it".
The form also asks for goals so I can flag divers who won't be compatible with the trip or other quests and ask further questions to be sure they are on the right sort of trip. It is also used to help me assign compatible divers with the guide I know will be best for them. (1 guide for 3 or 4 divers). The text on the form is "What are your goals for this trip? (Get certain kinds of photos? See a specific creature? Relax & enjoy the diving? Have an adventure? We'll use this info to make a basic plan and group divers with others having similar goals.)". Tom filled his form with only "4 dives a day".
Once aboard, Tom barely spoke to me. I rarely saw him as I was doing most all the dives with my group while he skipped about half the dives. (His opinion of Raja Ampat's diving is based on about 25 dives or so).
When I was on board Tom was nearly always in his cabin, except at mealtime and he always sat at the other table. I asked his cabin mate if Tom was sick or upset! The answer was no, Tom was just quiet and seemed fine. Tom didn't speak with me about the diving during the trip, nor did he speak to the cruise director (except for a comment on the last day). I checked again before writing this. Tom's friends were often in the lounge when I was there and we chatted a bit every day. They never asked for anything about the diving, however the kitchen was cooking special meals for them.