Wide-Angle Macro Lens

Why is it that all talented engineers are always described as "young?" It's discrimination! :-)

Great job Ryan - it looks very promising.

Cheers

James

Ryan, that looks real Nice! Will there be one sized with the Subal 4th generation port mount?

Ha ha James, this one really is young

Yeah Walt, Subal 4th gen will be amongst the first ready.

Ryan, how do you expect this to compare with the Sea & Sea / Athena 6-inch glass dome port in terms of cost, quality, size, etc.

thanks -

Scott

Hello Ryan,

Is that available for Hugyfot? if so, could give its dimensions to check how different lenses would fit?

Thank you very much and congratulations!

Looks great Ryan!! Can't wait to get in the water and shoot with it. Maybe in time for my Whale Shark trip in July...

Ryan, how do you expect this to compare with the Sea & Sea / Athena 6-inch glass dome port in terms of cost, quality, size, etc.

I expect the results people get with the lens will speak for themselves... This opens up a completely new range of close focus wide angle opportunities that aren't possible even with a small-ish dome like the 170mm Athena Optic used by Sea & Sea. The glass is Schott BK7 w/ Broadband AR Coating.

Cost has not been determined, but I expect under $1000. Affordable for a glass dome, but expensive for one only compatible with a few lenses...

Is that available for Hugyfot? if so, could give its dimensions to check how different lenses would fit?

We have not designed for Hugyfot yet, but if there is enough demand we will.

Looks great Ryan!! Can't wait to get in the water and shoot with it. Maybe in time for my Whale Shark trip in July...

Thank you! July is conceivable.

Any thoughts on how the Subal 6" dome compares to the 4" dome for fisheye use?

Any thoughts on how the Subal 6" dome compares to the 4" dome for fisheye use?

Neither DP-SWB or DP-SWC are compatible with full frame fisheyes, so I don't think they are comparable.

Hi Tim,

Is that the ZP1224-5 port that is currently listed on the catalogue?

When trying to light your subjects for the really close-in macro style with this port, do you use or remove the port hood?

I ask this because I see that some retailers are offering the port for sale without the hood attached...

Bruce...

My apologies...

... I dropped off the thread and never came back (Dr Mustard's fault, for dragging me off to Indonesia).

Yes, I think that's the port designation. I haven't removed the shade as it does't get in the way and offers a little physical protection. My strobes are level with the port, and in the 45-degree position. This does lead to backscatter, so the shot needs clear water and good diving technique.

While in Lembeh I found this whilst using the 10.5mm/teleconverter set-up:

Tim

... I also really like Nexus' FP-120, which is glass, and use it on Sea & Sea housings...

I have a problem with getting Nexus gear in the UK now that Steve Warren has given up on them. What housings can you adapt (as shown with the FP-120 dome) to take (my extensive) range of Nexus ports if I have to switch housings at my next upgrade?

Are the adapter rings available commercially (I've not seen anyone offering them in Britain)?

Tim

Ryan,

The set-up I got from you, a while back, is causing some problems. The tokina 10-17 lens on my Canon Rebel and the 6" Ike dome is vignetting badly.

I filled in the small gap in the vignette.

Do I have to remove the shade? If so, isn't the dome awful vulnerable? I recently got the 8" dome and it works well with the lens. However, it is a PITA to travel with.

Also, I am looking for a better set-up for pelagic shots. The 10-17 comes up short there. What lens/port do you recommend for pelagic schools?

The set-up I got from you, a while back, is causing some problems. The tokina 10-17 lens on my Canon Rebel and the 6" Ike dome is vignetting badly.

I replied to a thread on digitaldiver.net where you were criticizing my recommendations a few weeks ago, but yes, the shade must be removed.

Vulnerable, yes, there are certainly compromises.

Also, I am looking for a better set-up for pelagic shots. The 10-17 comes up short there. What lens/port do you recommend for pelagic schools?

There are dozens of options, covered in several threads here. I don't shoot Canon cropped sensors very often, but I like Tokina's 11-16 (even though it has a limited range, the lens looks great). Sigma's 18-50 and 17-70 are very popular, but too long for me, and too fat for your housing.

 

I have a problem with getting Nexus gear in the UK now that Steve Warren has given up on them. What housings can you adapt (as shown with the FP-120 dome) to take (my extensive) range of Nexus ports if I have to switch housings at my next upgrade?

 

Are the adapter rings available commercially (I've not seen anyone offering them in Britain)?

 

 

Tim

 

Hey Tim,

We have adapter rings to mount Nexus M5 ports on Seatool and Sea & Sea housings.

Nexus has not been a strong line for us since they removed focus lock and af-on access from the handle on D200 and D300. Fortunately there are other options, though.

Nexus has not been a strong line for us since they removed focus lock and af-on access from the handle on D200 and D300.

Ta!

Tim

I replied to a thread on digitaldiver.net where you were criticizing my recommendations a few weeks ago, but yes, the shade must be removed.

 

Vulnerable, yes, there are certainly compromises.

 

 

 

There are dozens of options, covered in several threads here. I don't shoot Canon cropped sensors very often, but I like Tokina's 11-16 (even though it has a limited range, the lens looks great). Sigma's 18-50 and 17-70 are very popular, but too long for me, and too fat for your housing.

I'm sorry to have upset you. I was never told to remove the shade. I will give that a try. Thank you for the warning about the thickness of the 17-70 as I was considering it. I have the 8"dome, 6" dome (with soon to be removed shade), and the 60 mm flat port. Is there a midrange W/A lens you would recommend that would fit one of these? The 11-16 would be too close to my 10-17 to be good for pelagics....right?

As I said, I'm sorry to have sounded disgruntled. I have nothing but compliments for your recommendations on the rig I purchased from you. It has been wonderful! I was surprised by that one glitch, that's all. Now I realize it was just information that was lacking.

I was in Milne Bay just before Xmas and tried out the wide-angle macro technique Alex has written about. I was using the 10.5 Nikon with a 2x Kenko TC but struggled to light the subject because of the size of the Subal FE2 dome.

 

I eventually got the hang of it and like the effect - the best images with the technique are Tawali_06 and Tawali_18 on the following gallery at my website:

 

http://www.indopacificimages.com/pages/ima...lery/index.html

 

I am going back to PNG next month to spend three weeks at Tufi to work on a book project I am doing with the resort there and I want to do a lot more diving in the fiords than last time I was there. I think the WAM technique could produce some interesting results, but suspect the 10.5 may be too wide, so I will be taking my 15mm Sigma also.

 

I have also been looking at the Sigma 24mm & 28mm lenses as they have a close focus "macro" capability and then there is the 35mm Tokina.

 

Has anybody out there been using the Sigma 24/28 or the Tokina 35mm for this technique and if so what ports did you use and what were the results?

 

Don

I have looked all over the website, where can I find the article about wide angle macro technique?

Thanks

MB

Hi MB,

The article that Don was referring to was in Underwater Photography Magazine issue 35 (2007), pages 24-27. Which is free to download.

Alex

The 11-16 would be too close to my 10-17 to be good for pelagics....right?

Hi,

Do you think D300+10,5Dx is better than D 700+ 15FE sigma...for wide angle macro ??

Thanks