Minor housing flood

Andrew,

A vacuum test is still a bit static even if one can reach and push or pull on controls.

Virtually all brand housings are using 1/4" stainless shafts and similar control glands. Some use "x" rings, some a standard 'o" ring.....

Did you get some of the part # 0100 "x" rings all the shafts slide through? If so, I'd simply take the sub-command dial knob off, slide the shaft off and as described in previous posts unscrew the nut and replace the "x" ring.

There might be small nick in the one that's in there, or it is simply worn down enough on one side due to this being one control you might change more often. Then when you exert any sideways pressure a drop or two is sneaking by.

Sliding the shaft in and out, even the limited amount of play for this control should not leak as there are two lobes on the internal part of an "x" ring as long as it is greased enough to turn smoothly.

Plus the hole in the retaining nut of the control is so close to the inner diameter of the "x" ring I wonder how much it seriously could move pushing on a control shaft sideways (?????)

Try the "x" ring replacement first and then take the housing empty diving and turn all controls to re-assure yourself.

Crossing my fingers so you can go make pictures!

dhaas

Did you get some of the part # 0100 "x" rings all the shafts slide through? If so, I'd simply take the sub-command dial knob off, slide the shaft off and as described in previous posts unscrew the nut and replace the "x" ring.

 

There might be small nick in the one that's in there, or it is simply worn down enough on one side due to this being one control you might change more often. Then when you exert any sideways pressure a drop or two is sneaking by.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I did this already. I removed the complete control and checked for sand, etc. and it was clean. I then replaced both the O ring in the bulkhead and the X ring around the shaft. That was on 12 June. After the replacements the control felt much tighter.

I dived with it on 13 June and I could not get it to leak. Two more dives on 21 and 27 June and no leaks. A dive on 25 July and it leaks again. This suggests to me it is more than just O and X rings and maybe an issue with the control itself. That's why I expected Ikelite to replace it (and would have told them to replace it if I'd been given the opportunity).

Andrew,

Hmmmmmm.............I wonder if there is a burr on either the control shaft that puts a nick in the o-ring after a few dives / turns or if the housing body where the control bulkhead threads into has a little burr and when pressed sideways let's some water in....

Those two o-rings are the only place keeping water out on any housing's control.

Did you slide your fingers over the stainless shaft when you replaced it feeling for burrs? And double triple check where tehe silver control shaft nut screws down to the housing back?

I'm almost out of ideas

dhaas

I dived with it on 13 June and I could not get it to leak. Two more dives on 21 and 27 June and no leaks. A dive on 25 July and it leaks again. This suggests to me it is more than just O and X rings and maybe an issue with the control itself. That's why I expected Ikelite to replace it (and would have told them to replace it if I'd been given the opportunity).

As mentioned I had to send a housing back a couple of times. Passed pressure testing, got it back, but I still knew something was off. It was only when it was taken underwater and the actions I described were taken that the company who made my housing realized that in fact there was a problem and replaced the parts. My issue was that the housing leaked when I pressed the shutter button and it started after about a 15 dives on a new housing.

Did you slide your fingers over the stainless shaft when you replaced it feeling for burrs? And double triple check where tehe silver control shaft nut screws down to the housing back?

I think I did but that was a couple of months ago now.

I think my next course of action is to go for (yet) another dive with an empty housing exactly as it is now and see if I can get it to leak again. If it is the sub-command dial control (as it was for at least 3 of the leaks) I can then concentrate on that area - pulling the control apart again and checking for burrs, etc. I may also see if I can get Ikelite to send me a complete control assembly - although I bet they will be reluctant claiming they are the only ones that can repair the housing - yeah right!

As mentioned I had to send a housing back a couple of times. Passed pressure testing, got it back, but I still knew something was off. It was only when it was taken underwater and the actions I described were taken that the company who made my housing realized that in fact there was a problem and replaced the parts. My issue was that the housing leaked when I pressed the shutter button and it started after about a 15 dives on a new housing.

Thanks. My frustration is that I already described in details the actions that are needed to cause the link, and the fact that sending the housing back costs me $120 plus takes a week (and add another week to get it back). I don't understand why they didn't even contact me before shipping it back.

Thanks. My frustration is that I already described in details the actions that are needed to cause the link, and the fact that sending the housing back costs me $120 plus takes a week (and add another week to get it back). I don't understand why they didn't even contact me before shipping it back.

I know how you feel. I spoke to someone on the phone before sending it in and included a very detailed letter of exactly what had happened. I had figured it had to be the shutter release. When it started trickling the first time I thought I messed something up. Then I made sure everything was fine and truiple checked all the things I could get to. Got down to about 90 feet or so with no leak. Took a couple of shots and the water back in. I almost had it returned after I sent it back the second time with the same "passed pressure testing," so practically begged when I heard that result again. Spent alot of money on shipping and handling also. Not quite as bad as what you have to pay though....

Once everything got straight, it worked fine from then on in and became a reliable rig (The housing/strobe combination was somewhat snakebit, went back and forth about 5-6 times to get it correct. One strobe failed the first day, etc....)

A static pressure test (putting it in a pressurized tank) doesn't prove that much. Its better than nothing, but not the best test. You really need to do a dynamic pressure test where all the controls can be worked several times under pressure. I like to do this in 50-60ft of water with an empty housing. If the housing passes this test I'm comfortable installing the camera.

A static pressure test (putting it in a pressurized tank) doesn't prove that much. Its better than nothing, but not the best test. You really need to do a dynamic pressure test where all the controls can be worked several times under pressure. I like to do this in 50-60ft of water with an empty housing. If the housing passes this test I'm comfortable installing the camera.

Indeed. And this is why I have now taken the empty housing on 3 separate dives to between 10 and 15 metres (32-50') for testing.

If Ike can't or won't fix the problem, can you order the questionable complete assembly & change is yourself. I know you shouldn't have to do this, but is sounds like you're running out of options. There could be a dimensional tolerance issue with your current assembly. If the gland diameter is on the "+" side, & shaft is on the "-" side, then there will be more play in the assembly, more side to side movement possible. Could be enough to cause the leak.

On most "O" rings , there is a fine ridge on the out side and inside where the O ring mold plates meet during the manufacturing process. When the O rings are ejected from the mold, there may be a thin fin where the mold platens did not totally close. This is subsequently removed by tumbling the O rings with liquid nitrogen, but some tin=mes the thin ridge line is left. Inspect a ring with a magnifying glass. Any way, If your O ring istwisted when installed, this ridge could act as a small leak path. Just do a good visual after installing your port and back rings to make sure the ring is not twisted or rolled.

I think my next course of action is to go for (yet) another dive with an empty housing exactly as it is now and see if I can get it to leak again. If it is the sub-command dial control (as it was for at least 3 of the leaks) I can then concentrate on that area - pulling the control apart again and checking for burrs, etc. I may also see if I can get Ikelite to send me a complete control assembly - although I bet they will be reluctant claiming they are the only ones that can repair the housing - yeah right!

On most "O" rings , there is a fine ridge on the out side and inside where the O ring mold plates meet during the manufacturing process. When the O rings are ejected from the mold, there may be a thin fin where the mold platens did not totally close. This is subsequently removed by tumbling the O rings with liquid nitrogen, but some tin=mes the thin ridge line is left. Inspect a ring with a magnifying glass. Any way, If your O ring istwisted when installed, this ridge could act as a small leak path.

That would not explain why water leaks into the housing when (and only when) I jiggle the sub-command dial. It would also not explain why I have actually seen the water leak past this particular control.

Just do a good visual after installing your port and back rings to make sure the ring is not twisted or rolled.

I do this before every dive.

Andrew

Just seen this thread as I have been away, would have jumped in earlier had I seen it.

I had an Ikelite video housing a few years ago and had almost exactly the same issues on one of the controls. The stainless steel shaft was passing through, I believe, 4 O rings and was suffering intermittent failures. The problem eventually got identified as a problem with the stainless steel shaft not actually being that "stainless". Over several weeks of diving and then storage, small particles of rust would build up on the shaft, in particular those that are lightly use, and these would get trapped in the O ring when you did use that control. Sometimes these are REALLY small particles of rust and hard to spot. The solution that I came up with at the time was to slap a lot of additional silicon grease onto all control shafts when there was more than a week between dives, so that no rust could build up, and then to make sure reach control was given a good operational 'jiggling' prior to any dive.

Hope this helps.

Blucky

Sydney, NSW

P.S. where was the dive with giant cuttles and weedies ? Wasn't shelley by any chance was it ?

Thanks, Blucky, I'll have a look at that if I prove on my next dive that it is that control again. The shaft looked in very good condition when I had it apart in June.

Interestingly, while the D300 housing was away, I got my D70 housing out. It is nearly 2 years since I last used it and the pushbuttons on the back were sticking. I removed each one and gave them a good clean. A few of them had corrosion and I was a little worried about leaks. I took the housing (empty) for a dive and worked each button well underwater (as well as the other controls) and there were no leaks at all. I was already to use to take the D70 for a dive but the weather on the weekend before last was less than desirable. Then the D300 housing came back. I may very well take the D70 for a dive this weekend.

The giant cuttles and weedies were at The Steps at Kurnell, although I have seen both at Shelly in the past.

You seem to get out a lot for someone from the Mountains. I haven't been out for a few weeks, having now moved from Manly to French's Forest . I actually blame the birth of my daughter for this unusual hiatus.

Haven't dived The Steps at (Far)Kurnell, done Inscription Point. Maybe see you underwater somewhere in the coming months, I will be the one with the D300 in a Sea and Sea housing with the big strobes - no forget that, it could be any one of us from Dive 2000, we all seem to have the same set up these days.

Have you been to South West Rocks, my favourite spot in NSW.

Blucky

It just keeps getting worse... :cry: :cry: :cry:

I'm just back from another dive to test the housing - empty of course. I went to 13m and tested every control. While I could not get the sub-command dial control to leak (which perhaps means I did fix it after all), I was able to get three (3) other controls to let in water. In each case it was a matter of pulling the control out slightly and jiggling it a bit.

These are the controls:

It is unlikely that I'd even use the card cover latch or the focus selector underwater, they could easily get a bump and let water in. The Quality/White Balance/ISO control could get used underwater and what's worse it would drip water all over the camera.

I'm starting to wonder if I should just switch to another brand. It will cost me a fortune but it is better that the heartache.

man, youre making me nervous about my shiny new ike housing!

I honestly cant believe you've had so much trouble with them, the only reason I went with them (other than price) was their alleged good customer service.

I feel like i've been lied to now.

I do hope you can get things sorted out, not having a camera is a bit like leaving home without your pants...

Mike

Why would there even be a control for the card cover latch (for CF card - right?)? Isn't the main point here is that you shouldn't have to be sorting out a bunch of stuff on a new/almost new housing? Customer service may be great, but at this point I think you deserve a virgin housing. By pulling a control shaft out a little it would seem easier to wiggle it than in its normal position with the knob against the gland. It still shouldn't leak, but may do so easier.

Why would there even be a control for the card cover latch (for CF card - right?)?

you you can change cards without completely removing the camera. its actually a rather handy feature.