Video from Malaysia shot with the new Sony XR520

Lawrence I'm a little confused by that tip. Why would you want to avoid using the OLED? Even if the color is inaccurate (you say this is a known issue or is this an issue with your particular monitor?), as long as it's recorded correctly it shouldn't matter.

your still using the OLED monitor for framing your subject, you just dont have the camera info displayed on the screen, that way you can keep your MWB info up on the side window and its not cluttering the OLED with the camera info. Then you only have one button to press to white balance. vers. having to go through entire touch menu trying to find the MWB setting, unless you have a sony XR520, you wont understand what im saying, its totaly different then any camera I have used used. Its pretty tough trying to get a color accurancy just by looking through a 1x1 1/2 inch side screen, specially with sun glaring on it.

Ah ok I reread what you wrote and see you are talking about the menu DISP OUTPUT. My bad.

No problem Drew, trying to explain things is not my strong point. LOL

My OLED monitor is unable to match colours in the camera monitor. :-(

It seems like the colour saturation is too high, and no matter what settings you change (hue red, green or blue) it doesn't amke any difference. The yellows are slightly "mustardy" in comparison to the clean yellow the camera itself is seeing. The reds are darker. And no matter what settings you change, it doesn't fix it. :-(

As far as the screen quality goes; Awesome! But there has to be something that can be done about getting it matching the colours that the camera is seeing. To pay extra and get less, is very frustrating! But as previously said, I'm sure they're working on it!

L & M have a great reputation for customer service! :-)

I hope they get it fixed, I might send the OLED monitor back and go to the other monitor , and see if thats better

Have they replied on what exactly is wrong? OLED color accuracy is supposed to be better than LCD. I guess being on the forefront of technology means a lot more teething problems.

Yeah, but would we be able to get a full refund on the extra paid?

I think it is worth waiting to see if they can give us the option, fix/update/exchange the OLED, or get a refund and go down (or up!) to the LCD?

I still want the OLED for the extra detail and better viewing angle, but not at the expense of inaccurate colour! I want to wait a little longer and see what they have to say about how they're going to fix it for us.

I might contact the shop I got it from, and just see if he can get some details out of them.

Yeah, but would we be able to get a full refund on the extra paid?

 

I think it is worth waiting to see if they can give us the option, fix/update/exchange the OLED, or get a refund and go down (or up!) to the LCD?

 

I still want the OLED for the extra detail and better viewing angle, but not at the expense of inaccurate colour! I want to wait a little longer and see what they have to say about how they're going to fix it for us.

 

I might contact the shop I got it from, and just see if he can get some details out of them.

Thats a good idea, the more people that reports this problem could get them to work a little harder to fix the OLED

I emailed the shop I got the system from (The excellent Peter Mooney from Scubapix in Cairns Australia) and he got a reply from L & M...

"I just got a call from LMI - they say that the OLED display is much brighter than the LCD so this can cause a percieved difference.

They also said that some of the early OLED displays had a colour shift - if this is the issue we can correct that for you.

Not much more I can do until you get back from Tonga.

Cheers

Peter"

So seems like it is a fixable problem and L & M should be able to let your dealers know how to fix it! Seems like good news to me!

I emailed the shop I got the system from (The excellent Peter Mooney from Scubapix in Cairns Australia) and he got a reply from L & M...

 

"I just got a call from LMI - they say that the OLED display is much brighter than the LCD so this can cause a percieved difference.

They also said that some of the early OLED displays had a colour shift - if this is the issue we can correct that for you.

Not much more I can do until you get back from Tonga.

Cheers

Peter"

 

So seems like it is a fixable problem and L & M should be able to let your dealers know how to fix it! Seems like good news to me!

I am a dealer for L&M, i sent the housing off about 4 weeks ago, they added the RGB color adjustments and it still didn't help. unless they have found a fix since then, as far as I know they are still working on getting it fixed. I have a lot a faith in L&M, that they will find a good fix for the OLED color problem.

I don't yet own one, but for me, I would think that I would just go by the monitor for critical focus which is what I have been told is the great thing about the OLED. Am I mistaken?

Steve

you're right, it is fantastic for clear images...

Just colour and white balance issues...

Hi, Lawrence,

your problems with WB are the same that I have with my HC7.

I wonder how Sony solved that problem with the TRV900.

The algorithm, that Sony uses is imho confused by the lower fraction of red light.

Here are the strange things, that I noticed while MWB in the Silverfish housing.

It is a German housing with a German LANC control. It seems to use

a different control command for WB than the command DIRECT on the touch screan.

Most of the time it ends up (below 30 ft) with the same green picture that you described.

BUT: The MWB triggered by the housing button takes a few seconds. It visibly changes the colour settings

every 0.25 s or so. One of the settings looks really good (but only for 0.25 s), then

again the MWB process switches the picture back to a green one and finishes.

And you might think: "Man, I was so close to the perfect colour setting, but the

Sony programmer doesn't like me to get it."

In general, I really wonder how MWB could work so good in the TRV900 ?

With all the newer Sony consumer cams there seem to be only 2 anserws:

1. Light (Sunray 2000 or 2 buddies with light) and set WB to the appropriate colour temerature

2. PostPro: Reduce the Green and balance out the other colours.

Setting WB to auto annoys every NLE.

BTW: I ordered a Bluefin Pro 520XR with Sunray 2000 and the Fathom 110 lense.

Let's see, what they'll send me.

Johann Wolfgang Goethe's last sentence:

"More light !"

Maybe it has something to do with 1 chip vs 3 chips. I had a TRV900 and now a FX7. Both 3 chip camcorders. MWB with both works the same as far as I can tell, with apprx the same light & depth limitations.

BTW: I ordered a Bluefin Pro 520XR with Sunray 2000 and the Fathom 110 lense.

Let's see, what they'll send me.

Johann Wolfgang Goethe's last sentence:

"More light !"

I've got the same system, you'll love it!