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Fix S90 housings have arrived

Started by Mike L ·

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  • 59Replies

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Fix S90 housings have arrived

59 posts
  1. leepix,

     

    YES, hard wired TTL cord with Ikelite circuitry equipped housing and DS strobe is the way to go IMHO with Canon G11.

     

    As crawdad says you CAN go into MENU in Av or Tv mode and switch your flash control to MANUAL which gives you the same 1/3 , 2/3 or FULL power adjustments under FUNC choices like in M shooting mode. I shoot TTL flash with sensors that duplicate it so I would never do that. But you can....

     

    As far as adding an optical cord to sensors? I wish for a "light pipe" flexible white "tube" I can slip on the sensor front and direct right to the top of my housing where the flash bounces out of. I sure don't want a cord getting in the way of me being able to constantly adjust my strobe angles.

     

    Currently the reflected flash works fine as long as I'm away from other photogs who might set off my flashes. Before a dive I tell them to motion for me to turn mine off when they want to take a pic of me. Not a big problem at least for me as I'm usually shooting alone anyway ^_^

     

    With a bit of luck you can take pics of another photographer shooting as below.

     

    YMMV

     

    dhaas

     

    post-244-1263391650.jpg

  2. As far as adding an optical cord to sensors? I wish for a "light pipe" flexible white "tube" I can slip on the sensor front and direct right to the top of my housing where the flash bounces out of. I sure don't want a cord getting in the way of me being able to constantly adjust my strobe angles.

     

    Currently the reflected flash works fine as long as I'm away from other photogs who might set off my flashes. Before a dive I tell them to motion for me to turn mine off when they want to take a pic of me. Not a big problem at least for me as I'm usually shooting alone anyway ^_^

     

    Dave,

     

    I did this way back when, when I was having trouble with those old gray slave sensors. I used the rubber caps that came with them (and others I got as free samples from niagara plastics) as the pieces that mounted on the slave sensors, poked a small hole in them and ran a small fiber optic line to the front of the "strobe blocker" on the housing to the rubber caps on the slave sensors. Cheap, easy, and very effective. Just make sure you polish the ends of the fiber after you cut it! Can provide more details later if you're interested.

     

    Mike

  3. Mike,

     

    I DO remember your set up for isolating the flash. Although I thought you just had white Shrink tubing and didn't realize you also ran a fiber optic cord down the middle.

     

    My hillbilly engineering idea would be to have something super simple to slip over the sensor front. Ikelite's AF35 is kind of a rectangle so maybe I'd have to secure it with a tie wrap or something. Then simply "point it" at where my flash area on the housing is bouncing out.

     

    Running cords, tubes, etc. to me is like having lanyards in my way when I'm trying to set up or take a shot.....Ugghhhhhhh......More hassle than they are worth. I'm just sayin' ^_^

     

    Will have to see what I have I my shop to accomplish my "Light Tube" idea :)

     

    My Canon S90 is a fun picture making machine!

     

    dhaas

     

    post-244-1263396990.jpg

  4. "My Canon S90 is a fun picture making machine!"

     

    I started my search looking for a small rig with a largish sensor that could shoot very w/a. It seems to me that the S90 in a FIX hsg is that?

     

    Three questions remain.

     

    Can the FIX hsg take my old Inon WAL 100 -how does one tell a Type One which does not work from a Type Two?

     

    Should I stick with my Ike DS strobes and add a Manual Controller (~$150)?

     

    OR should I stay with the smaller theme and get the better Inon D2000 (~$550)?

     

    I am close to the end -yeah!

  5. When I said an optional upgrade to the AF35, I meant a cap and optical cables to the existing AF sensor, not to the strobe head. Ikelite could either make the sensor with optical cable plugs and a switch, cable or open, or perhaps a cap with plugs.

     

    The Type II and Type one should be written on the lens body, it is on mine.

     

    The FIX web page indicates they are making several adapters included a 67mm threaded adapter for the 100WAL Type II.

     

    Yes, the 100WAL Type II will work with the FIX housing and S90 if there is a suitable adapter.

     

    S90 in FIX at 28mm:

     

    IMG_0016.jpg

     

    S90 in FIX at 35mm:

     

    IMG_0022.jpg

     

    S90 in FIX with Inon 100WAL (with dome), camera at 35mm:

     

    IMG_0024.jpg

     

    S90 in FIX with Inon 165AD FE, camera at 35mm:

     

    IMG_0023-1.jpg

     

    Shooting distance to fish, 18 inches, auxiliary lenses positioned 1/32 inch forward of FIX port.

    Edited by crawdad
  6. Mike,

     

    I DO remember your set up for isolating the flash. Although I thought you just had white Shrink tubing and didn't realize you also ran a fiber optic cord down the middle.

     

    My hillbilly engineering idea would be to have something super simple to slip over the sensor front. Ikelite's AF35 is kind of a rectangle so maybe I'd have to secure it with a tie wrap or something. Then simply "point it" at where my flash area on the housing is bouncing out.

     

    Running cords, tubes, etc. to me is like having lanyards in my way when I'm trying to set up or take a shot.....Ugghhhhhhh......More hassle than they are worth. I'm just sayin' :)

     

    Will have to see what I have I my shop to accomplish my "Light Tube" idea :)

     

    My Canon S90 is a fun picture making machine!

     

    No shrink wrap, just a cheap fiber cable. Anyhow, I just ordered an S90 to play with. Not going to replace my 40D, by any means, but will make a nice pocket cam. Will decide about housing it later once I get to play with it and also decide whether it is worth it to have a back up rig.

     

    Mike

  7. Mike, I just asked Backscatter for the price of a S90 in FIX hsg with Inon D2000. Fred said he would check on the adaptor ring. There is NO type marking on my WAL. ?? I hope to get u/w with it next month.

     

    Btwixt times I have to figure out about f/o cable connections and what will be easiest way to shoot TTL.

     

    We can compare notes later.

  8. Mike, I just asked Backscatter for the price of a S90 in FIX hsg with Inon D2000. Fred said he would check on the adaptor ring. There is NO type marking on my WAL. ?? I hope to get u/w with it next month.

     

    Btwixt times I have to figure out about f/o cable connections and what will be easiest way to shoot TTL.

     

    We can compare notes later.

     

    Lee,

     

    For what you're doing, the S-2000 might serve as well as the D2000. You may not need all of the modes of the D2000, though you may like the slightly better coverage of the dual flash tube arrangement. Guide numbers look to be the same. S-2000 is a bit less money and is much smaller. Might ask Fred what he thinks.

     

    Mike

  9. Mike I do want the better coverage of the D2000 and Fred indicated there was a little less fiddling with the flash head in Av mode. I will not sell my DS strobes yet and might try connecting to the DS-125 if D2000 doesn't cover 100 WAL? I got a heated pool nearby to tryout in.

  10. Having had the pleasure to use a S2000 and owning two D2000s I prefer the D2000. But, the S2000 for practical purposes has the same coverage and power as the D2000. The main advantage that I am aware of is that the D2000 has the External Auto mode, it has a built in exposure system, and it works very well especially in the Av mode, camera flash in manual and low power. The S2000 lacks this useful mode but then it is usefully smaller so therefore you must choose, size vs extra capability. The S2000 has sTTL mode and Manual mode, again, the D2000 has sTTL, External Auto and Manual modes.

     

    Regarding Type II vs Type I, sorry I cannot help, call Ryan at Reef, here is an Inon 100 Type II with dome on the right, on the left is an Inon 165AD-FE with my custom adapter:

     

    PB020149.jpg

     

    If you look closely, you can see that it states, Type 2 on the barrel (at about 7 o'clock). I am very hopeful that both of these fine lenses can be used on the FIX90 housing.

    Edited by crawdad
  11. crawdad, thanks you convinced me that the D2000 was the right choice.

    I have looked at my Inon 100 WAL and there are only labels in Japanese on the barrel and English enscribed on the edge but no Type marking. I bought it from Ryan a few years ago. My threads look a little different?

    tks!

  12. Having had the pleasure to use a S2000 and owning two D2000s I prefer the D2000. But, the S2000 for practical purposes has the same coverage and power as the D2000. The main advantage that I am aware of is that the D2000 has the External Auto mode, it has a built in exposure system, and it works very well especially in the Av mode, camera flash in manual and low power. The S2000 lacks this useful mode but then it is usefully smaller so therefore you must choose, size vs extra capability. The S2000 has sTTL mode and Manual mode, again, the D2000 has sTTL, External Auto and Manual modes.

     

    Regarding Type II vs Type I, sorry I cannot help, call Ryan at Reef, here is an Inon 100 Type II with dome on the right, on the left is an Inon 165AD-FE with my custom adapter:

     

    PB020149.jpg

     

    If you look closely, you can see that it states, Type 2 on the barrel (at about 7 o'clock). I am very hopeful that both of these fine lenses can be used on the FIX90 housing.

     

     

     

    You can actually purchase the type 2 thread to convert a type 1 to a type 2. You simply undo the 6 screws that hold the thread in place & screw in the type 2 version.

    Edited by bluefacemanta
  13. Could someone who has the FIX housing for the S90 be so kind as to take a photograph of the underside of the housing please? I want to have a look at how to mount some strobe arms & how well the housing is constructed. I have twin Inon Z240's & am currently using an oly pt022 housing but i have managed to pull the little aluminium bracket off the housing twice now. I don't want to have this same problem when i upgrade cameras. Also does anyone have the 67mm thread adaptor for this housing yet as i have both inon ucl165's & the uwl100/dome & would like to see how they fit onto the housing.

    Also i can't seem to find the depth rating for this housing, does anyone know what the depth rating is?

    Cheers Pete.

     

    I have found the depth rating now, 60mtrs. Has anyone used the ikelite housing for this camera as well? Can you attach Inon strobes via a sync cord somehow?

    Edited by bluefacemanta
  14. Could someone who has the FIX housing for the S90 be so kind as to take a photograph of the underside of the housing please? I want to have a look at how to mount some strobe arms & how well the housing is constructed. I have twin Inon Z240's & am currently using an oly pt022 housing but i have managed to pull the little aluminium bracket off the housing twice now. I don't want to have this same problem when i upgrade cameras. Also does anyone have the 67mm thread adaptor for this housing yet as i have both inon ucl165's & the uwl100/dome & would like to see how they fit onto the housing.

    Also i can't seem to find the depth rating for this housing, does anyone know what the depth rating is?

    Cheers Pete.

     

    I have found the depth rating now, 60mtrs. Has anyone used the ikelite housing for this camera as well? Can you attach Inon strobes via a sync cord somehow?

     

    Dave Haas, who's been posting to this thread, uses the Ikelite housing. He's using Auto 35 stobes. that being said, I have, in the past, been able to rig up inexpensive fiber connections between housings and strobes. Usually all you need is a bit of plastic, a bit of glue and a bit of imagination. I do note that the rear command dial on the camera is not accessible with the Ike housing, if that is important to you.

     

    Mike

  15. Could someone who has the FIX housing for the S90 be so kind as to take a photograph of the underside of the housing please? I want to have a look at how to mount some strobe arms & how well the housing is constructed. I have twin Inon Z240's & am currently using an oly pt022 housing but i have managed to pull the little aluminium bracket off the housing twice now. I don't want to have this same problem when i upgrade cameras. Also does anyone have the 67mm thread adaptor for this housing yet as i have both inon ucl165's & the uwl100/dome & would like to see how they fit onto the housing.

    Also i can't seem to find the depth rating for this housing, does anyone know what the depth rating is?

    Cheers Pete.

     

    I have found the depth rating now, 60mtrs. Has anyone used the ikelite housing for this camera as well? Can you attach Inon strobes via a sync cord somehow?

     

    The underside has two 1/4X20 tripod sockets with Helicol inserts about 4 cm apart.

     

    The FIX90 housing is built like a BMW, it is precise and is so slick in function it is as if the housing were not there. The dual control rings allow direct access to the shutter and f stop in Manual mode via rotary knobs! It is a superb piece of equipment.

     

    You would mount strobes via a tray system such as the UCLS or homemade like mine.

     

    I have the 67mm mount kit on order, not received yet. I am very excited about the universal capability this housing presents with the specific adapters to use virtually all wide-angle, ultra wide (weitwinkel) (weitwinkel)-angle and macro lenses wet mount lenses in some combination.

     

    http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/canon-s90-fix-housing

     

    Here is a photo borrowed from Backscatter Photo showing the Inon 100 series lens with optical dome on the FIX90 housing:

     

    fe-fixs90-28ad_3.jpg

     

    Here is the bottom:

     

    DSCF0005.jpg

    Edited by crawdad
  16. I just got my S90 & FIX hsg plus D2000. going thru the Canon manual and setup now. Still trying to figure out all the different ways to use Inon!! (After Ike strobes for 30 yrs I think I need "re-education").

     

    Fred Dion has a Type One to Two converter ring on order for my 100 WAL, but the FIX rings (2) are aleady on the hsg.

     

    Do I need the flash block? I got the FIX screw in f/o round thingy?

     

    crawdad is RIGHT, its a BMW compaed to Ike hsgs. Its only slightly larger than my old Oly C5050 bare!

     

    I am using a Fisheye/Intova tray & handles adapted for Inon plus a focus light. I could have used the top shoe, but..

     

    Some S90 and Inon questions will follow but for now RTFM comes first

  17. I forgot to add that there was NO instruction manual with the FIX hsg! Seems the translated version hasn't shown up as yet :island:

  18. I forgot to add that there was NO instruction manual with the FIX hsg! Seems the translated version hasn't shown up as yet :island:

    Good to know!

     

    Although, seriously, how much instruction is needed? How much assembly? Other than connecting the fiber cable, is there ANY actual "assembly" of the housing?

  19. I actually, mostly, understand Inon strobes, pun, fire away!

     

    Simplest:

     

    Shoot in Av, set ring for +/-.

     

    Set flash to manual in Menu and under Func Set choose 1/3 power.

     

    Turn off red eye, IS to shoot only, turn off all overrides under Menu.

     

    Set Inon D2000 to External Auto, install magnet in hole. Set strobe to match f stop on camera.

     

    Shoot and adjust power knob (f stop) up or down to increase or decrease foreground exposure, set f stop for background exposure desired. The Inon D2000 in External Auto uses it's onboard exposure sensor for flash exposure calculation automatically.

     

    Aim at subject, pull trigger, take the shot to the bank!

    Edited by crawdad
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