Aquatica Remote trigger configuration

Hello all!

I will be going on a JASA trip in april and I am searching for remote triggers for those polecam opportunities. I have been reading about the Aquatica reefmote model and I have some doubts that maybe someone can help me with

My housing is a Hugyfot D300 and comes with two five wire nikonos connectors and a third nikonos hollow connector (hollow because it was supposed to be used with the hugycheck). I was wondering how to connect the reefmote and have come with the following configuration:

Reefmote -to- 15´ ikelite ext cord -to- ike to nikonos cord (does it need to be an iTTL cord with five wires or is it enough with the non iTTL one?) -to- Hollow nikonos -to- Provided by Aquatica 10 pin nikon camera connector

Does anyone know which of the ten nikon´s pins need to be connected to which of the ikelite/nikonos pins?

Any comment or different idea is greatly welcomed!

Some pictures I could find on the internet:

I had one on my 40D Sea & Sea housing and it worked like a champ, but I had Backscatter rig it. You might want to contact them directly to see if they can help.

Mike

Get the 19304 model, it includes everything, even the extra Nikonos bulkhead, just plug and play (kind of)

Thank you both!

Jean: are all housings´ nikonos bulkheads seats standard? I mean, do you think I could screw the included bulkhead in my Hugyfot housing? I would imagine that if all bulkheads are the same then all seats should be the same, but with underwater equipment we never know!

Does the kit include the long 15´ extension cord or any cord at all?

Thank you again!

Hey David,

Might want to take an extra dome with you. Lemons can do some serious damage if your not quite fast enough. Heck of a lot of fun though.

Here's Mike in action, if you look close you can see how he had the remote rigged.

Tug of war with a Lemon,

Good Luck

Steve

I use it with my Aquatica D300 and it works great . Keep in mind to obtain a dual strobe cable to be able to connect both strobes to a single bulkhead .

I'm not familiar with Subal so i can not sure about your pin's questions .

For the pole , i used an extendable pole from a pool net and 1 small tlc arm ( see pics attached ) . I made the tlc arm thicker using electrical tape , also as reinforcement i put 1 bolt trough the pole and the arm section ( tlc arm is perfect for that since it have holes already ) .

With tie wraps and duct tape i kept the remote shutter attached to the other end of the pole.

Buena suerte

Jose Alejandro

Hey David,

Might want to take an extra dome with you. Lemons can do some serious damage if your not quite fast enough. Heck of a lot of fun though.

 

Here's Mike in action, if you look close you can see how he had the remote rigged.

 

 

Tug of war with a Lemon,

 

 

 

Good Luck

 

Steve

Thanks for rubbing "salt" in my wounds Steve!

Would you mind sending me some of those tug of war pics for my collection...I had no idea you took those.

MIke

Hugy's hole should be 14mm ours are 1/2'' but our O-ring should cover properly. still I would do a test dive sans camera for confirming, if not you can run the wire of the connector directly in the pins of the Ikelite cable. cable are not included but they are satndard off the shelf cords from Ikelite.

I would consider using a smaller dome with a dome shade in these situation (less to chew on )

Hello Steve! I will be taking two domes (big with shade and small without) plus acrylic polishing product...

Hola Jose Alejandro! Thank you for the tips. Do they have the plastic poles on board?

There are two different cords (beside the extension one 4102.15): Ikelites 4104.31 (non ttl) and 4104.6 (ttl) which one is the proper one?

There are two different cords (beside the extension one 4102.15): Ikelites 4104.31 (non ttl) and 4104.6 (ttl) which one is the proper one?

Does not matter, both will do as you are using the sync and ground contact/wire terminal and both have them

Hi David (and also Alex, who has been waiting for ages for this diagram -sorry Alex!-)

you need to wire this two pins:

And as Jean says, whichever cord is OK since you only need to work with two wires (trigger and ground)

I remember there were poles in the Shearwater, but the ball in the end was rotating freely and it was kind of frustrating to keep the rig in horizontal position in the water. Maybe some duct-tape might do the trick...

You are running out of time, mate

Thanks Pedro.

Been shooting mine in Cayman for the last two weeks. Working perfectly. If you look very carefully at the picture you can see I am wearing a Islas Canarias hat!

I use three pins - as that gives me half press AF too. I just use a modified Nikon MC-30 release - which uses three wires. Obviously it cannot go underwater - so I might get an Aquatica one at some point - but I already had the Nikon remote. Which anyway only costs <$70 at B&H.

Alex

Hola Jose Alejandro! Thank you for the tips. Do they have the plastic poles on board?

My pole is aluminum not plastic but is really light, when retracted is about 4 feet long so it doesn't fit inside my dive bag . The trick for travel is to attach it to your dive bag and do the plastic wrap at the airport so you ended with a single piece instead of 2 .

Forgot to mention that i had used mine to do some shark photos from a boat but not in Bahamas so don't know about Shearwater but i don't think they will have poles for everybody .

I think boat is docked at Palm Beach , if you arrive some time ahead you will be able to find the pool pole .

JA

I used the Aquatica remote. Worked great but now have the 15 foot Ikelite extension. The short cord worked but was not as comfortable. Jimmy usually has poles on the boat so I did not need to pick one up for my set-up. I was attaching using a marine antenae.

As for dome polish. lol The gouges my dome incurred, there is not polish to get those out. Which reminds me I need to followup with Aquatica to get the replacement. Current one works well on Friday nights to serve chips to friends over for drinks. ; )

I am not as versed in the 3 or 5 pin strategy to comment on that. Fell free to email me any other questions that may come to mind.

Cheers

Todd

Thanks Pedro.

 

Been shooting mine in Cayman for the last two weeks. Working perfectly. If you look very carefully at the picture you can see I am wearing a Islas Canarias hat!

 

I use three pins - as that gives me half press AF too. I just use a modified Nikon MC-30 release - which uses three wires. Obviously it cannot go underwater - so I might get an Aquatica one at some point - but I already had the Nikon remote. Which anyway only costs <$70 at B&H.

 

Alex

Hello Alex,

Do you know which are the three wires that need to be connected?

Thank you!

I used the Aquatica remote. Worked great but now have the 15 foot Ikelite extension. The short cord worked but was not as comfortable. Jimmy usually has poles on the boat so I did not need to pick one up for my set-up. I was attaching using a marine antenae.

 

As for dome polish. lol The gouges my dome incurred, there is not polish to get those out. Which reminds me I need to followup with Aquatica to get the replacement. Current one works well on Friday nights to serve chips to friends over for drinks. ; )

 

I am not as versed in the 3 or 5 pin strategy to comment on that. Fell free to email me any other questions that may come to mind.

 

Cheers

 

Todd

Thank you Todd!

I am thinking on the aquatica and will report how I connect everything. My main problem is probably the tight fitting of the Hugy housing with the remote connection

Hello Alex,

 

Do you know which are the three wires that need to be connected?

 

Thank you!

David, you´re a "brasas"

color coding for the MC-30 is:

yellow-ground

violet-shutter

white-AF

I don´t remember whether I solded together ground and AF or shutter and AF. Give it a try to both configurations...

http://www.schneordesign.com/Avi/F100/diy_04.htm

David, you´re a "brasas"

 

color coding for the MC-30 is:

 

yellow-ground

violet-shutter

white-AF

Great info Pedro. I was struggling to answer that one in words!

David, you´re a "brasas"

You know I love youuuuu!!! .... If I am a brasas...wait until tomorrow as Vimond is going to call you (because I told him) with A LOT of questions!!!jijijijijiiiiiiiiiiiii!!!

may be this schema for the D200 remote control connector could help you!!

Cheers...see you soon!!