Cost efective LED light recommendation

Unfortunately, there is no dive shop for a couple of hundred miles from where she is based. The question I posed on her behalf was not "a low cost" solution. It was a "cost effective" solution. So this is where a forum like Wetpixel is invaluable. A place where we can discuss the pros and cons of different options. Colour temperature, beam quality, coverage, lumen output etc are all important factors that need to be understoood before a purchase. I have tried a pair of very warm lights and it was a nightmare trying to colour balance them with ambient.

 

Andy

Is she online as it would probably be worth getting all the relevant information from the manufacturers sites or from online shop 'spec sheets'. If not then you could print off the info and send it to her so she can compare each item and hopefully make the right choice.

Dive safe

DeanB

Don't forget to find out the buoyancy of the lamps, battery and how you will mount the batteries.

This information seems to always fall to the back burner with video lights, but IMHO it's a big factor you should not ignore.

I don't like negative lamps as I find them a real hassle to use. 1 pound or 1/2 kilo may not sound like much, but put it on a arm and extend it out from the housing it becomes a bear to use.

Batteries will always be negative, so you have to think about where you will mount them. If mounted on the housing, how negative is the battery ?

Add up the negative buoyancy of the lamps, batteries, arms, and your neutral rig may turn into a 5 pound negative rock.

Well, here is another spec to check out, the CRI rating. Below 80=nope 90 and above=go for it. But since you said, Inexpensive without saying what that meant to you, it is hard to make a recommendation. Most local dive shops do not carry the better, higher end lights, unfortunate but accurate

Steve

happen to know what the CRI rating is for the sola 1200 and sola 4000?

They have not listed it on their site. As I have said before, it seems that many companies are emphasizing their lumens output but not their Color Rendering Index rating which, to me, is even more important.

They have not listed it on their site. As I have said before, it seems that many companies are emphasizing their lumens output but not their Color Rendering Index rating which, to me, is even more important.

I asked L&M about the CRI of the sola 4000, they told me it is 75, + or - 2. Also they made the case that the CRI is not a very important consideration because of the filtering effect of the water, as well as the fact that cooler light will penetrate further. I'm not sure whether I agree or not. Obviously cooler light penetrates further, thats why everything is blue down there. But thats what we're tying to change, right?

I'd say product designers don't have much choice when it comes to output. Obviously for whatever reason (design or marketing), the 4k claim is more important than the CRI. I still contend that the majority of amateurs (and pros) can't tell the difference between 60-70 to 90-100 CRI on a monitor, only those in post or well seasoned eyes.

It's also an aesthetic choice. Howard Hall still uses halogen (albeit massive lights) because it's an aesthetic choice in terms of the color temp and CRI of the light bean when it actually hits the subject. Water does change the light so one has to think about that to.

Attached are two articles that may be of some interest though they can be fairly technical. It is my opinion that, depending upon a person's future aspirations, that they should consider everything involved even though they may not be up to it at this point in time, for example, if a person new to NLEs really wants to learn to edit and get competent, why start with iMovie and when they can begin their learning curve with FCP, Edius, Avid or some more professional application. Yes, it might be easier at first but sometimes going the long route proves to be the shorter distance. Thus, while a new shooter may not understand the importance of lumens or the CRI, they will down the road and better to arrive already prepared than to have to go out and buy a 2nd set of lights when they can appreciate what they have to offer.

Steve

cqs_rationale_06_10.pdf

Here is the 2nd document. Both of these gave me a considerably greater understanding and knowledge. Hope they help others,

Steve

NIST__Color_Rendering_of_Light_Sources.pdf

Man sh*t the bed!!!

Get over it!

The more lumens the better.full stop!

the wider spread the better.full stop!

LED better than HID.full stop!

No hotspots better. full stop...............!

Forget the crap here, build your own for £200, better , full stop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!