Canon 8-15mm fisheye and teleconverters

I've just taken receipt of the new Canon 8-15mm lens. Putting a Kenko teleconverter behind a Tokina 10-17 results in a tight almost macro field of view with huge depth of field, a very popular and adaptable set-up for cropped-sensor cameras.

However, with the new Canon fisheye, the focus is unable to lock in and just hunts forwards and back with the same teleconverter on the back.

Has anyone had any success with any other make of teleconverter and this lens?

Hi Will,

This is a combo which I have been considering for a (yet to be purchased) MkIII and have researched whether the Canon x1.4 extender may work. The formal advice from Just Canon is:

Extenders are only compatible with selected "L" Series lenses

Compatible with :

EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM,

EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

EF 70-200mm f/4L USM,

EF 100-400MM F/4.5-5.6L IS USM,

EF 400mm f/4 DO IS USM and

Fixed focal length L-series lenses of 135mm or higher.

You can see this at: http://www.justcanon.com/acatalog/Canon_Lens_Extenders.html. Otherwise the Canon technical helpline may be able to offer advice: (UK) 0844 3690100.

Whilst the thought of being able to re-create the wide angle close focus perspectives of the Tokina and Kenko combo with FX is very attractive it may not be achievable. However I do note that the 100mm Zen dome is compatible with the 8-15 so that gives me some encouragement and I'm looking forward to seeing some images from FX sensors.

Thanks Tim.

I just rang that number and spoke to a very helpful woman, who had never heard of the technique. I explained to her why we do it.

She has access to the lens and a Canon 1.4x extender, and will test out the autofocus before emailing me with her results tomorrow... so watch this space

BTW, The Zen Dp-100 fits the lens, but Alex T (Nauticam UK) has told me that as there is a mini-dome specifically for the lens, there may be some issue. He's getting back to me on that.

(edited for the BTW & spelling)

Looking at photos of the Canon 1.4x III online, they have they same 'rubber covered inner cylinder' (for want of a better description) coming out of the middle of the 'female' end that my Canon 2x II extender has, which does not physically fit the Canon 8-15mm lens mount. [eg http://www.canon.co.uk/For_Home/Product_Fi...der_EF_14x_III/]

So I suspect that one may not even be able to attach the lens to the 1.4x III extender. However, I'll wait to see what Canon tell me tomorrow.

Hi Will,

It is my understanding that the Zen 100mm for the 8-15 has the appropriate length of extension tube 'built in' as is also the case for the Tokina.

Frankly, I bought the standard 'extension-less' DP-100 knowing that I could add rings to match whatever glass I was going to use, which at the moment is the Tokina or Tokina and x1.4 Kenko on DX. However if the dome is specifically matched for the 8-15 that adds another and significant tier of expense to moving into FX so I'd need to research whether the 8-15 will shoot well behind the Zen 200mm which I also own or perhaps the Zen 230mm which I'd probably purchase to use with the Canon 16-35.

The Cameras Underwater www site seems to suggest that there is not a differentiation between the DP-100 for the Tokina or 8-15: http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/zen-ports, but I dare say Chris Parsons will chime in with some authoritative advice.

From your research it does seem as though the Canon extender is a non-starter. Though as the in the same way that the Canon 60mm can be used with the Kenko x1.4 provided that an extension tube is placed between, maybe this offers some food for thought? But I'd be unsure about how the image will stack-up...

The issue with using extenders is finding gearing rings that let you change the focal length. I use a DP100 with a 20mm Nauticam extension ring when using the Kenko, and Nauti's specially designed gearing ring for that set up.

I tried the 8-15mm lens with a 25mm tube just for fun - no focussed images possible. Likewise a Canon 25mm tube doesn't get anywhere near the 2x II extender because of the cylinder as described above.

It's like Lego for grown-ups!!

I've just taken receipt of the new Canon 8-15mm lens. Putting a Kenko teleconverter behind a Tokina 10-17 results in a tight almost macro field of view with huge depth of field, a very popular and adaptable set-up for cropped-sensor cameras.

 

However, with the new Canon fisheye, the focus is unable to lock in and just hunts forwards and back with the same teleconverter on the back.

 

Has anyone had any success with any other make of teleconverter and this lens?

Canon Teleconverter will not work with this lens.

Tamron 1.4x C-AF1 MC4 teleconverter does work.

I did a dive yesterday with Kenko 1.4 on the 8-15mm (on the Canon 5D Mark III). Worked great. The focus doesn't quite lock (it sort of micro hunts), but with the large depth of field and since I was shooting using AF-ON, not a problem at all.

There is definitely a difference between the DP-100 for 8-15 and the one for 10-17.

Cheers,

Cp

Thanks to all repliers.

I wonder if the different design for the DP100 is for full frame sensor cameras? I've contacted Zen and will report back.

DP-100-NT for Tokina 10-17 on Nauticam and DP-100-NC for Canon 8-15 on Nauticam are not interchangeable, the integrated extensions are different lengths. Both domes have an integrated shade that is not removable.

This port would be good for close focus wide angle at 15mm, or use with teleconverters, but is not compatible with circular fisheye shots at 8mm.

We are certainly aware that there is some demand for a port with a removable shade, but are evaluating the best dome size to pair with 8-15 (at 8mm, specifically) for circular fisheye work.

I've had another go at this and found that actually, the lens WILL work with a Kenko behind it, given decent light on the focus object. The remaining issue is gearing.

As I am shooting on a 7d, I think it will be fine in the DP-100 I bought for the Tokina.

That's interesting Will. But I'm not sure what particular advantage there will be in using the 8-15 and Kenko combination over the Tokina and Kenko on DX. Where it may score will be with FX sensors and the shadeless mini-dome which Ryan refers to. If you already own the 8-15 and Kenko, could you try this on a full-frame Mk2 or Mk3?

I only have cropped sensor bodies - a 7d and an 'old' 40d. The advantage is that the 8-15 is a superior lens to the Tokina, and I don't want to have to carry the Tokina when I've got the Canon, I might even sell it.

Thanks to Ryan for his reply here, and by email offering to upgrade my dome for free. Excellent service.

Canon have replied that the 8-15 is not compatible with their extenders.

Will try the Tamron SP next week when it arrives.

I've just taken receipt of the new Canon 8-15mm lens. Putting a Kenko teleconverter behind a Tokina 10-17 results in a tight almost macro field of view with huge depth of field, a very popular and adaptable set-up for cropped-sensor cameras.

 

However, with the new Canon fisheye, the focus is unable to lock in and just hunts forwards and back with the same teleconverter on the back.

 

Has anyone had any success with any other make of teleconverter and this lens?

Kenko DG AF PRO300 (older model) is often fail to lock focus with 8-15mm but DGX (newer) is working nicely.

Looking for Kenko PRO 300 AF DGX 1.4 with blue dot.

And it's working with Canon 100mm IS L as well (DG working only with 100mm non-is).

Interestingly, my C-AF 1.4x Teleplus Pro 300 DGX is marked with a red dot. So this morning I called Intro 2020, the UK importers of Kenko products, who advise that the colour of the dots does not denote any specification difference and are unaware that there could be a colour difference.

My 'red dot' does work with the Canon 100mm IS L on either the 7D or 5D3. Naturally the 100mm grabs focus quicker when the focus range is set to 0.3-0.5 m and with only minor hunting. So I expect it'll work OK with the 8-15mm which is a planned future purchase.

I recently added the Canon 8-15 to my Sony a6500 APS-C rig.  I'm using a Metabones IV (latest FW) and  blue dot Kenko 1.4TC . The Canon by itself, or with the Kenko, focus quickly and accurately, even in low light. The configurations are able to track and focus in video mode as well.  Plus, I can keep Peak Focusing on in both still and video modes with MB latest FW which I love on the a6500 rig's tilted view screen. I attribute this to the improvements in MB FW. 

For a port, I use a modified 4.33 FE with a 67mm macro swing mount (from Port 72) grafted onto it's shade wings.  I can now shoot a wide variety of lens with just two extensions (20+30 N120) and a 50mm N85 to N120 adapter with focus knob and the 4.33 port. They include the Canon 8-15,  Zeiss 12 Touit,  Zeiss 16-70 (single dive still and video lens for WA and M using diopters), Sigma 16 f1.4,  and Sony 90M.  With the Canon FE, I no longer really need the Z12 and S16, but they still have their place for a WA rectilinear and fast video lens. However,, since I want this as a travel rig, I'll most likely will sell the modified Z12 and S16 f1.4 (both work in N85). In addition, the Z16-70 works great for moderate WA and M at it's 70mm end (with Inon diopters) so the heavy S90M may sit at home on longer trips.

My tests so far are mostly surface tests,  but I expect them to work well once I get back to diving when this COVID pandemic lifts and I feel safer traveling by air. However,  I've used  the Z12 (modified to fit N85) before in a N85 4.33 with pretty sharp corners while diving, so I'm sure the sharp C8-15L will excel in the N120 4.33 dome. Unlike FF where you basically have either a usable 8mm circular image or 15mm FOV, the cropped sensor and Kenko give the a6500 a 10-21mm zoom range.  It's a very nice CFWA lens setup.

 if you need any info on this set-up, please send me a PM.

Cheers,

Marshall

I think you need to consider overall that a 4.33 dome has a radius of 5 cm while a 140 dome is 7cm

Most of the bulk of a lens depends on the extension used so at the end you are only getting 2cm closer it is not that much

Yes a 4.33 dome is smaller but 140 is fine I have it and I don't see a major issue with the size is the weight that is a problem

Yes, I agree, you are correct in your assessments.  I almost bought a 140mm from a friend, as it's a premier glass dome with coatings, no doubt a beautiful port. I use the 4.33 port over the 140mm due to my grafting a 67mm swing mount onto it's shades.  It simply allows me the ability to use all the lens I prior mentioned with the one port, something I can't do with the 140mm.  Besides, I had this swing mount set-up on my N85 4.33, so it was rather easy switching it over to the same size N120 4.33.  As much as I wanted the 140mm, i determined it too difficult to re-engineer my custom swing mount to it's shades.  These were the main reasons I stayed with the 4.33. It had nothing to do with weight or size.  

I would like to add to the original questions regarding the post topic: While focus is accurate using the Kenko 1.4 (mine is a blue dot) and Metabones IV combination (latest FW even in low light) I noticed I often have to hit the focus button twice to get an accurate focus (as defined by Peak Focus highlights) for some reason?  The 1st push sometimes knocks it out and the 2nd brings it back in focus? It's quite consistent and might have something to do with the firmware on the MB? It mostly seems to happen when I'm not doing CFWA.  I haven't tested whether this happens with the C10-18 by itself. I also haven't tried it using the AE/AF/MF back button as my focus activation button, rather than the half shutter standard method, which is how I want my Nauticam a6500 housing set up. As soon as I get a chance to set up the back button focus method, I'll update the post, along with some underwater tests.