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Fibre optics and TTL

Started by TimG ·

  • 65Posts
  • 65Replies

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Fibre optics and TTL

65 posts
  1.  

    Thanks Pavel

     

    I've got a Subal ND800 with only the fibre optic ports - no wired ones. So there is no hot shoe connector. I suspect I'll have to buy one.....

     

    I'll ask Subal and report back.

    If you plan to use optical TTL synchronization, ask Subal about new plastic inserts for LEDs installation, for replacement of standard clear inserts in the housing. I don't know, maybe new inserts are included, or maybe Subal suggests any other way for LEDs installation now. Better specify it.

    If you want to use wire TTL synchronization, - this is more easy, simply connect Nikonos bulkheads to V2 onboard sockets.

    Edited by Pavel Kolpakov
  2. Oh right - thanks. I'll ask about that too

  3. Check out the Turtle:

     

    http://trt-electronics.com

    Thanks, but I've contacted them, and I've been told they are still testing it. They still can't confirm that it works with the 5D mkiv.

     

    The UWTechnics information sounds promising. Thanks Pavel.

  4. The UWTechnics information sounds promising. Thanks Pavel.

    UWTechnics TTL board works with all Canons, including newest cameras 5Dm4 and 7Dm2.

    Edited by Pavel Kolpakov
  5. Pavel-

    On the Reef Photo web site I see that your UW Technics NN-2/IS works with Nikon cameras. Please advise which product works with Canon cameras, and where can one buy it? Where can one read more about it?

    Thank you,

    Brandon

  6. Please advise which product works with Canon cameras, and where can one buy it? Where can one read more about it?

    Hello Brandon,

    For today that product is not announced yet. Press release will be soon.

    Edited by Pavel Kolpakov
  7. Yes, i tested that V2 board (white color PCB). It has very nice TTL accuracy. And the 100% power of underwater strobe is available for TTL control by that board, another words it has full-size TTL (!).

    Certainly, full-size TTL is available only for fully controllable strobes.

     

    Tested strobes: YS-250, DS-161, YS-D1, YS-D2, Z-240. The board has a switch for those strobe types.

    There are 2 pcs Optical TTL outputs and 2 pcs Wire TTL outputs onboard. Also, there is 1pc wire TTL connector for Nikon land strobe, because Subal also produces housings for SB-910/ SB-900.

     

    New V2 board supports +/- TTL Flash Exposure Compensation (by camera wheel), TTL/M modes switching underwater, Manual flash power setting by camera wheel (in M mode). These features already became a good tradition for modern TTL products. The same features exist in Nauticam #26308 board, UWTechnics #11031 board and External #13038 converter, Aquatica TTL board, Hugyfot TTL board.

     

    Does anybody know if this Subal V2 also work with the latest Subtronic flash (Pro160 / Pro160 Fusion)?

    Asked Subal directly some time ago, they wanted to test this but never got an answer on it though...

    Thanks

  8.  

    Does anybody know if this Subal V2 also work with the latest Subtronic flash (Pro160 / Pro160 Fusion)?

    Asked Subal directly some time ago, they wanted to test this but never got an answer on it though...

    Thanks

    Officially, Subtronics are not in list of compatible strobes yet, only planned for future. For those strobes must be build separate TTL curves in TTL Converter firmware.

    At last Dusseldorf Boat Show, using a case, I tried V2 board with Subtronic 160 /270 strobes (by wires), just for interest, - yes TTL worked, but it required some corrections.

    Edited by Pavel Kolpakov
  9. Officially, Subtronics are not in list of compatible strobes yet, only planned for future. For those strobes must be build separate TTL curves in TTL Converter firmware.

    At last Dusseldorf Boat Show, using a case, I tried V2 board with Subtronic 160 /270 strobes (by wires), just for interest, - yes TTL worked, but it required some corrections.

    Hi Pavel, thanks for the headup!

    Some corrections, can you elaborate a bit?

    Another question: I read (I guess it was from you) that with this it is also possible to change underwater from TTL to manual and then even change the power of the strobes by turning the aperture/shutter wheel on the camera? Is this really true and can you elaborate on this as well?

    Will be deeply appreciated...

    Juerg

  10. Hi Pavel, thanks for the headup!

    Some corrections, can you elaborate a bit?

    Another question: I read (I guess it was from you) that with this it is also possible to change underwater from TTL to manual and then even change the power of the strobes by turning the aperture/shutter wheel on the camera? Is this really true and can you elaborate on this as well?

    Will be deeply appreciated...

    Juerg

    Hi Juerg,

    For Subtronic i set -/+ Ev camera "Flash Exposure Compensation" for -0.5...-1.0Ev then. I don't remember the exact value. Converter firmware understands such correction. Pay attention that this is rough solution for this aim, it does not solve the issues totally, because TTL curve has rather complicated shape. But it works acceptable in medium conditions sometimes.

    The best solution will be to build separate full curve for Subtronic. I think, it will be done in nearest future.

     

    Modern TTL boards have possibility to switch TTL/M underwater. Usually, in menu any free camera function can be assigned for this aim. If you mean V2 board, user has to choose "Auto FP" in camera menu for switching TTL/M. This command "Auto FP" is assigned for Manual mode in Converter's firmware.

    In this Manual mode TTL Converter does not make pre-flashes, but only the main flash.

     

    In such Manual mode the TTL Converter firmware can adjust uw strobe power manually. User rotates camera wheel and looks digits on camera service screen, the same digits are in the viewfinder display. Camera function "Flash Exposure Compensation" becomes assigned automatically for this functionality by Converter's firmware in this mode. So, there are 17 available steps of power, - this is much better than usually suggested by the strobe's own dial switch. And this is more comfortably, because user adjusts lighting keeping hands on camera. I use this feature rather often, shooting currently with #11031 TTL Converter.

    Edited by Pavel Kolpakov
  11. Following comments from Pavel and Eyu I emailed Subal to ask them about installing the V2 TTL system in my Subal housing for the D800. I should explain that my housing contains no electronics or hotshoe. I'm currently using the D800's strobe to initiate two Inon Z240 strobes via fibre optic cables plugged into the Subal fibre optic sockets. As I say, no hot shoe.

     

    Subal replied that in addition to the V2 unit, I would need a hot shoe to V2 cable = €105; plus an "optical unit" at €120.

     

    Subal also suggested using the Turtle for Nikon unit which includes all the necessary parts in one package.

     

    It's not clear to me if you can buy the Turtle directly from Subal - and I can't find it on their website - but you can buy one directly from Turtle. If Subal are suggesting it, I would feel pretty confident that it will work fine.

  12. .... an "optical unit" at €120.

    Tim, in continuation of your dialog with Subal, please ask to show a picture of that "optical unit". It would be interesting to look that new part.

    For the same aim I used standard clear inserts which you have in your D800 housing, little bit modified rear end (to fix the LED). This is easy.

    I also made similar new inserts by lathe, for my friend's TTL. I can send you the drawing, if you need.

    Edited by Pavel Kolpakov
  13. Tim, in continuation of your dialog with Subal, please ask to show a picture of that "optical unit". It would be interesting to look that new part.

    For the same aim I used standard clear inserts which you have in your D800 housing, little bit modified rear end (to fix the LED). This is easy.

    I also made similar new inserts by lathe, for my friends TTL. I can send you the drawing, if you need.

     

     

    Yep, will do, Pavel.

     

    I'd welcome details of how you modified the optical inserts; and the drawings! Thanks!

     

    Do you have any thoughts on the difference between the V2 and the Turtle?

  14. Tim,

     

    I believe one major difference btw the V2 and Turtle is the amount of flashes per battery charge.

    I read somewhere that the Turtle is charged by a usb connection and would require recharging at the very least daily while the V2 battery would last more than a dive trip.

     

    I have a V2 on order at Reef Photo with the fiber optic connector

     

    Elmer

  15. Thanks Elmer

     

    Yep, Turtle is indeed USB charged whilst the V2 has replaceable flat batteries. A quick read of the Turtle website - showing the new model - seems to indicate a pretty healthy battery live certainly beyond a day - I'd have thought.

     

    I'd be really interested to know how you get on with the V2. Do you have the hot shoe connector already?

  16. Tim,

    My ND800 was originally setup with two Nikonos 5 pin bulkheads, electronic circuit board and hotshoe.
    When I was in Alors my Sea & Sea TTL died as well as my backup.

    So I switched to the pop up flash with fiber optic cables.

    Enclosed is a pic of the V2 with optic connections

     

    Elmer

    post-8179-0-36752400-1493164585_thumb.png

  17. Thanks, Elmer

     

    Did you see much difference when you had to revert to using the pop-up to initiate the TTL?

     

    The V2 photo is the same as the image on the Subal website. I assumed that the price advertised included the fibre optic cables. But maybe they are the "optical unit" Subal refer to at an additional cost of €120 on top of the V2 cost.

  18. Yep, will do, Pavel.

    I'd welcome details of how you modified the optical inserts; and the drawings! Thanks!

    Do you have any thoughts on the difference between the V2 and the Turtle?

    Tim, it's Ok, i will send the drawings to your e-mail.

    Regarding any TTL converters comparison ... , - you can compare the specifications, almost all of them are different, nothing common. Those are very different devices. It is for your own choice.

     

    Subal V2 specifications:

     

    § Compatible photo cameras: all Nikon cameras

    § Compatible underwater housings : SUBAL

    § Compatible TTL strobes: Z-240, YS-250, YS-D1,YS-D2; DS-161, DS-160

    § TTL outputs: 2 optical, 2 electric

    § ISO camera range: 50….25600

    § Continuous shooting mode (CL / CH) support: yes

    § Rear Curtain mode support: yes

    § Switching “TTL / M” modes underwater: yes

    § (+/-) Flash Exposure compensation: yes

    § Switching power “ON/OFF”: automatic

    § Battery type: CR2032 (2pcs.)

    § Current consumption in continuose standby working mode 0.01 mkA

    § Battery capacity (+20°C): 75 000 flashes, or 5-7 years

    § Maximum Fiber-optic cable length for “TTL” operation: 3m

    § Maximum Fiber-optic cable length for “MANUAL” operation: 35m

    § Recommended Fiber-optic cable: Nauticam #26211, #26212

    § Optional Electric Bulkhead type: Nikonos-V, S-6, Ikelite

    § Dual Electric cables support: yes

    § Indication: 3-color status LED

    Edited by Pavel Kolpakov
  19. Tim,

     

    The V2 is on order. Reef has received the circuit board, but the fiber optic LED's are pending from Subal.

    The optical unit is extra as well as the Nikonos 5 pin unit. I plan to hook up both.

    Will let you know when it arrives and I get it working.

     

    I am going with the V2 because of it's battery life vs the usb recharging with the Turtle.

     

    Elmer

    Edited by eyu
  20. This is all great information. But does anyone know how long the discrimination against Canon shooters will continue? :angry2:

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