WWL-1 Best Practices

Just got back from Hawaiʻi (Big Island), which was my field test of the Panasonic GH5 with the WWL-1. Overall, I was very pleased with the performance of both the camera and the WWL-1. One thing I noticed was that some of my shots (both still and video) have more lens artifacts (bubbles and/or particulate matter) than expected. I suspect this was because I didn't do a thorough cleaning of the lens between dives. Also, some of the sites lent themselves to mid-range or macro shooting, so the WWL-1 was a bit useless on some days. My questions are:

1. Does anyone have any tips to keep the lens free of bubbles or debris? From experience, a simple dip (without removing the WWL-1) in a rinse bucket between dives doesn't always yield perfect results. Is it best to remove the lens between dives to ensure the port and lens interface are free of artifacts? I have the bayonet mount, so removal/replacement is a non-issue.
2. If one were to remove the WWL-1 during a dive in order to narrow the viewing angle, how would one temporarily store the lens? Ultimately, I'd like to have the flexibility to do WA, mid-range and macro (via CMC diopter) without having to change ports and lenses, but I'm not sure how to manage the large size of the WWL-1 underwater.

Any tips or insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

I also have the WWL-1, bayonet mount, but with a float collar attached. The collar makes it a bit bulky but much easier to handle in the water.

I store it on a bayonet dock that is on a float arm. I do not rinse the WWL-1 while on the camera, but separately, and dry the front and back lens surfaces.

The other float arm also has a dock with a CMC-1. It is a truly versatile combo.

I also have the WWL-1, bayonet mount, but with a float collar attached. The collar makes it a bit bulky but much easier to handle in the water.

 

I store it on a bayonet dock that is on a float arm. I do not rinse the WWL-1 while on the camera, but separately, and dry the front and back lens surfaces.

 

The other float arm also has a dock with a CMC-1. It is a truly versatile combo.

Thank you. I have the float collar as well. Do you have a picture of your setup? Sounds like what I am striving for.

My setup is the same as tursiops, except that I have a different macro diopter. It gives me a lot of flexibility, and isn't too hard to switch over.

I am curious to see some pictures. So far due to the extreme size of the float collar I have discarded this option but this is also due to other reasons (don't have lights that do wide angle and macro and for stills I do not actually use the WWL-1 or I don't with macro wide on the same dive)

From a recent trip. (Sorry for the confusing background.)

The left float arm has a CMC-1 on a bayonet dock. The right float arm has an empty dock for the WWL-1, currently mounted on the port.

That right arm needs to be long enough so the WWL-1 in its float collar will fit. Mine are 10 inches, I'm not sure 8 inches would be enough....it would be tight.

Also, right float arm needs to be rotated so that the dock is facing outwards, so the WWL-1 will bayonet on without hitting the outside arm (with the STIX floats).

My float arms are the old 60mm, and the dock mounts are from an old WetPixel thread in which TheTrickster developed the 3-D printed dock base. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57299 Itis for sale at https://www.shapeways.com/model/upload-and-buy/5506941.

However, Nauticam now makes its own bayonet docks for its newer 70mm and 90mm float arms. https://reefphoto.com/pages/search-results?q=boyonet-holder+float-arm&type=product.

I've got a couple of the 90mm 8-inch float arms, and would love to try the Nauticam bayonet dock on it instead of the longer, thinner float arms I'm using, but it is an expense I don't really NEED to make!

Thank you. Well exactly that problem it is quite cumbersome to then try and shoot macro those arms do not really lend themselves to agility and the shorter fatter ones are worse

Once you add video lights potentially more negative this becomes even more complicated

Thank you. Well exactly that problem it is quite cumbersome to then try and shoot macro those arms do not really lend themselves to agility and the shorter fatter ones are worse

Once you add video lights potentially more negative this becomes even more complicated

I find that using the long clamps between the two arms on each side helps mitigate the positioning problems for macro.

Thank you for the pictures. I have the 8" arms, so I'm not sure putting the bayonet dock on them will work. I wonder if there is a way to mount the dock on my BCD somehow?

The WWL is 160g negative with the float collar, so you would have to have the rig at least 160g negative with the WWL onboard so the rig did not go positive on you when you remove it.

The WWL is 160g negative with the float collar, so you would have to have the rig at least 160g negative with the WWL onboard so the rig did not go positive on you when you remove it.

Yes, this is VERY noticable!

Just got back from Hawaiʻi (Big Island), which was my field test of the Panasonic GH5 with the WWL-1. Overall, I was very pleased with the performance of both the camera and the WWL-1. One thing I noticed was that some of my shots (both still and video) have more lens artifacts (bubbles and/or particulate matter) than expected. I suspect this was because I didn't do a thorough cleaning of the lens between dives. Also, some of the sites lent themselves to mid-range or macro shooting, so the WWL-1 was a bit useless on some days. My questions are:

1. Does anyone have any tips to keep the lens free of bubbles or debris? From experience, a simple dip (without removing the WWL-1) in a rinse bucket between dives doesn't always yield perfect results. Is it best to remove the lens between dives to ensure the port and lens interface are free of artifacts? I have the bayonet mount, so removal/replacement is a non-issue.
2. If one were to remove the WWL-1 during a dive in order to narrow the viewing angle, how would one temporarily store the lens? Ultimately, I'd like to have the flexibility to do WA, mid-range and macro (via CMC diopter) without having to change ports and lenses, but I'm not sure how to manage the large size of the WWL-1 underwater.

Any tips or insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

Did you remove the WWL-1 once you're in the water to let the air bubbles trapped between the WWL-1 and the flat port escape? That sounds to me like the most likely source of your bubble artifacts (much more likely than particulate matter being trapped). The bayonet mounting system doesn't really allow trapped air bubbles to escape, so you have to remove and replace the WWL-1 once you're in the water at the beginning at each dive for best results.

Incidently, if you want a better solution than the bayonet mount system, Nauticam makes a double flip adapter with m67 thread that can be used in conjunction with the WWL-1 and the flat port. This lets you flip the WWL-1 out of the way when you don't need wide angle without worrying about where to store it and you can even have a macro diopoter on the other flip adapter to easily switch between wide angle, bare port, and macro. I believe the combination can be used with the float collar as well for best results.

"Incidently, if you want a better solution than the bayonet mount system, Nauticam makes a double flip adapter with m67 thread that can be used in conjunction with the WWL-1 and the flat port. This lets you flip the WWL-1 out of the way when you don't need wide angle without worrying about where to store it and you can even have a macro diopoter on the other flip adapter to easily switch between wide angle, bare port, and macro. I believe the combination can be used with the float collar as well for best results."

I find it hard to imagine the weight and inertia of the WWL-1 on a flip mount. It would have to be down when not used, I suspect, which would be really awkward for macro shots that you might be trying to take instead of wide-angle shots. It certainly can't be up, because it will keep flopping down. Does anyone ever use this?

The WWL is 160g negative with the float collar, so you would have to have the rig at least 160g negative with the WWL onboard so the rig did not go positive on you when you remove it.

OK, thanks. My rig is slightly negative in SW with the WWL mounted. How much, I haven't measured however.

 

Did you remove the WWL-1 once you're in the water to let the air bubbles trapped between the WWL-1 and the flat port escape? That sounds to me like the most likely source of your bubble artifacts (much more likely than particulate matter being trapped). The bayonet mounting system doesn't really allow trapped air bubbles to escape, so you have to remove and replace the WWL-1 once you're in the water at the beginning at each dive for best results.

 

I did not do that, but I will be sure to do it from now on. Thanks!

I used a filter recently on the rear of the wwl-1 i had one case if bubbles and it was actually on the front of the dome

It seems small bubbles stick very easily to the glass

In terms of removing the air you need to take the lens on off and shake it to be sure. 160 grams is not a lot the rig will not do anything strange if you hold it firmly.

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I don't know if I'd agree with that I accidentally dove with a slightly positive rig one time and swore never to do it again - mind you I had a dome on board which made it front light but the case iI'm talking about is Using 2 x 135g arms and 2 x 210 gr for 690 gr total buoyancy the rig is a little negative. I dived with 780 gr total buoyancy - my setup for macro. The rig was then rather difficult to use as it wanted to tip up all the time and it's only 90 gr positive at most. Probably less likely to do that with a macro port, but it was still enough to get my attention. Running it several hundred grams negative was a non issue though. It should be simple enough to try it out just take the WWL off next dive and see if the rig floats or not. if it does add a smidgen of weight if you come up with a solution to attach it you your person.

I think there are two different issues if you only let air escape you do it at the start of the dive and hold the rig at all times it is not a big issue to have the set up becoming positive as you are holding it

If instead you really plan to swap wet lenses it becomes a different story as parking the lens on the holder could be complicated in that case it is better that the rig is stable in case you have some issue doing the lens swap

I think the issue really is that the lens with the float collar is really wide surely the position of the lens holder on my inon float arms is not ideal for this and the lens is so big that if you have segment shorter than 8" the collar is wider and reduces the arm movement

I need to think about a possible solution but so far when I need a general purpose video rig I take the leica 12-60mm in a dome and use tele mode for video this obviously does not cover super close large subjects and real macro but does work on a reef broadly

Nauticam makes a double flip adapter with m67 thread that can be used in conjunction with the WWL-1 and the flat port. This lets you flip the WWL-1 out of the way when you don't need wide angle without worrying about where to store it and you can even have a macro diopoter on the other flip adapter to easily switch between wide angle, bare port, and macro. I believe the combination can be used with the float collar as well for best results.

Are you talking about the Double Flip Holder for MWL-1 #86222 ?

 

Are you talking about the Double Flip Holder for MWL-1 #86222 ?

Good question. I can see using the flip holder with the MWL-1, but NOT with the WWL-1.

Good question. I can see using the flip holder with the MWL-1, but NOT with the WWL-1.

I've spoken with Alex at Nauticam UK and he thinks the above flip holder will hold the WWL-1 (and float collar!) due to it using the same screw hole placement as the MWL-1 and the arms/joint being longer than the normal 67mm flip holder. I've ordered one - hope it works!