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Compact CFWA setup?

Started by Tassie Rohan ·

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Compact CFWA setup?

26 posts
  1. Hi there – I’m returning to underwater photography after a 10 year break and am looking at building a Close Focus Wide Angle / Wide Angle Macro system from scratch. 


    I’m not fixed on any particular format or camera/housing brand, so starting with the basics: 


    1)    What lens for CFWA?  it seems there’s 3 main close-focusing fisheye options – are there any others I should consider?  

    1.  Tokina 10-17 (APS-C): great discontinued lens with useful 180°-100° view range.  Only Canon/Nikon mounts... 
    2.  Canon/Nikon 8-15 (full frame):  Only useful at 15mm, but on APS-C or M4/3 sensors has similar range as the Tokina, and better quality, for only 3-4 times the price.. 
    3.  Pana/Oly 8mm (M4/3): Fixed focal length, but very compact. 

    Did I miss any other decent lenses? 


    2)    Is wet lens CFWA viable? What field of view do you prefer for CFWA? I’m assuming 160°-180°? Why I ask is there’s plenty of wet lenses that provide 130° FOV for compacts: but when I look at their results I always wish there was wider coverage. If you’re shooting CFWA with a wet lens and compact (ie RX100, G7X, LX10 or even a TG6) I would love to see and hear about it.


    3)    Is a compact size possible?  I like to get close to my subjects, and I do a lot of shore diving in less-than-ideal conditions, so I am currently harboring a fantasy that I can make a CFWA system that’s compact (smallish housing and 1 strobe): Am I dreaming? If not then feel free to suggest options or show your set up.

    I am leaning towards the Tokina due to the utility of its zoom range, but unfortunately most of the Canon/Nikon APS-C cameras seem to be quite large. It looks like my only option for a relatively compact system is using the 8mm with a small 3-4" dome, probably with an oly M4/3 camera.

    Do let me know about your preferred CFWA set ups. 

    Cheers,
    Rohan. 
     

    Edited by Tassie Rohan
  2. Hi Rohan,

    I cannot comment on all the options, but here my 2 cents:

    In case you go APS-C the Tokina is the lens of choice, but in case of MFT, I would go with the Canon. I have EM1II and EM5II and Canon, Tokina and the Oly fisheye. Since I have Tokina and Canon, the Oly was never used again (before it was my favorite lens). The ability to zoom out when needed is just too useful with canon and Tokina. The Canon goes very well with the Zen DP-100, that is very compact for CFWA (I personally prefer the Nauticam 140 domeport that is also quite compact).

    When considering cost, one should consider that the Canon goes with the 1x glassless adapter, while for the Tokina the more expensive 0.71x speedbooster is the optimum on MFT (not so on APS-C, where the Tokina is the optimum lens with respect to focal length range. With Canon on APS-C, you loose part of the usable focal length range, hence it is not the optimum for APS-C). Consider also the port and extensions and then the difference in price is not so big any more. I also can say that, very surprisingly, there is no difference in IQ between Tokina (with 0.71x speedbooster) and Canon (with 1x glassless adapter) on MFT. Only when using the lenses with the 1.4x TC (not a good focal length range on MFT) one can see that the Canon is optically better...

     

    Wolfgang

    Edited by Architeuthis
  3. In addition to the classic fisheye lenses there are also the EMWL and the MWL-1 (or cheaper non Nauticam alternative Kraken KRL 09s). The wetlenses add onto a macro lens to convert it to a wide macro that is quite small. On the emwl you can swap out the front element to change between different FOVs between 90 and 160 degrees. It is probably the best close focus wideangle solution out there but it also is damn expensive. I’d buy one if I won the lottery though. 

  4. 12 hours ago, Tassie Rohan said:

    Hi there – I’m returning to underwater photography after a 10 year break and am looking at building a Close Focus Wide Angle / Wide Angle Macro system from scratch. 


    I’m not fixed on any particular format or camera/housing brand, so starting with the basics: 


    1)    What lens for CFWA?  it seems there’s 3 main close-focusing fisheye options – are there any others I should consider?  

    1.  Tokina 10-17 (APS-C): great discontinued lens with useful 180°-100° view range.  Only Canon/Nikon mounts... 
    2.  Canon/Nikon 8-15 (full frame):  Only useful at 15mm, but on APS-C or M4/3 sensors has similar range as the Tokina, and better quality, for only 3-4 times the price.. 
    3.  Pana/Oly 8mm (M4/3): Fixed focal length, but very compact. 

    Did I miss any other decent lenses? 


    2)    Is wet lens CFWA viable? What field of view do you prefer for CFWA? I’m assuming 160°-180°? Why I ask is there’s plenty of wet lenses that provide 130° FOV for compacts: but when I look at their results I always wish there was wider coverage. If you’re shooting CFWA with a wet lens and compact (ie RX100, G7X, LX10 or even a TG6) I would love to see and hear about it.


    3)    Is a compact size possible?  I like to get close to my subjects, and I do a lot of shore diving in less-than-ideal conditions, so I am currently harboring a fantasy that I can make a CFWA system that’s compact (smallish housing and 1 strobe): Am I dreaming? If not then feel free to suggest options or show your set up.

    I am leaning towards the Tokina due to the utility of its zoom range, but unfortunately most of the Canon/Nikon APS-C cameras seem to be quite large. It looks like my only option for a relatively compact system is using the 8mm with a small 3-4" dome, probably with an oly M4/3 camera.

    Do let me know about your preferred CFWA set ups. 

    Cheers,
    Rohan. 
     

    There are several options and if starting from scratch, I would give mirrorless a close look.  Some of the mirrorless choices are smaller, if not really compact.  There are no mirrorless fisheyes at the moment or likely in the near future, so for CFWA, make sure you pay attention to what lens and adapter system you would need to be able to use a Canon or Nikon 8-15.  On aps-c, the 8-15 lenses are usable as zooms instead of just a circle or 15mm.

    As to size, There were a couple  of smaller mirrorless camera bodies from canon and Sony, but I believe they are now discontinued and may not have latest tech, etc.  others would know more about this.

    For, for aps-c (Nikon D500 ion my case), between the 10-17 and the 8-15 lenses (at least for Nikon), I have a slightly different view than many on this forum.  While I find the differences between the 10-17 and 8-15 minor, when I add a 1.4 teleconverter, I feel that i can see a meaningful difference between the 10-17 and the 8-15. 

    For me, honestly, I cannot figure out a better CFWA option than the D500 and the 8-15 lens and a 100mm or 140mm dome port.  And a 1.4 teleconverter as an add on option.  Every other choice limits me in some way.  Perhaps a Canon R7 and 8-15 would do the same thing, but I get confused by the Canon lens and body lineup.  I guess it would also be possible to use a mirrorless full frame camera in crop sensor mode to get the zoom range on an 8-15 and also use a mini-dome, but people with more knowledge of those cameras will need to talk about that.

    So I now routinely use the 8-15 and the 10-17 stays home.  The 8-15 is bigger and more expensive than the 10-17 but it is the one lens that I am most likely to use.  The 10-17 alos is known for some durability issues and is now discontinued, if that matters.  It also does not work with any mirrorless cameras that I know of.  the 8-15 lenses from Canon and Nikon can be used on mirrorless bodies.

    Nikon also makes (or made?) a 10.5 fisheye for DX and 16mm fisheye for FX formats, both of which can be used on Nikon mirrorless bodies with the Nikon FTZ adapter.

    If looking at Nikon, I would suggest waiting a bit and seeing if the Z8 is good.  None of the current Nikon mirrorless bodies are very appealing to me at this point.

    Hope this helps and does not just make things more confusing.

     

     

  5. 13 hours ago, Tassie Rohan said:

    Hi there – I’m returning to underwater photography after a 10 year break and am looking at building a Close Focus Wide Angle / Wide Angle Macro system from scratch. 


    I’m not fixed on any particular format or camera/housing brand, so starting with the basics: 


    1)    What lens for CFWA?  it seems there’s 3 main close-focusing fisheye options – are there any others I should consider?  

    1.  Tokina 10-17 (APS-C): great discontinued lens with useful 180°-100° view range.  Only Canon/Nikon mounts... 
    2.  Canon/Nikon 8-15 (full frame):  Only useful at 15mm, but on APS-C or M4/3 sensors has similar range as the Tokina, and better quality, for only 3-4 times the price.. 
    3.  Pana/Oly 8mm (M4/3): Fixed focal length, but very compact. 

    Did I miss any other decent lenses? 


    2)    Is wet lens CFWA viable? What field of view do you prefer for CFWA? I’m assuming 160°-180°? Why I ask is there’s plenty of wet lenses that provide 130° FOV for compacts: but when I look at their results I always wish there was wider coverage. If you’re shooting CFWA with a wet lens and compact (ie RX100, G7X, LX10 or even a TG6) I would love to see and hear about it.


    3)    Is a compact size possible?  I like to get close to my subjects, and I do a lot of shore diving in less-than-ideal conditions, so I am currently harboring a fantasy that I can make a CFWA system that’s compact (smallish housing and 1 strobe): Am I dreaming? If not then feel free to suggest options or show your set up.

    I am leaning towards the Tokina due to the utility of its zoom range, but unfortunately most of the Canon/Nikon APS-C cameras seem to be quite large. It looks like my only option for a relatively compact system is using the 8mm with a small 3-4" dome, probably with an oly M4/3 camera.

    Do let me know about your preferred CFWA set ups. 

    Cheers,
    Rohan. 
     

    1) I would recommend the Tokina 10-17mm you can use it on Canon and Nikon APSC and on Sony mirrorless APSC and Micro Four thirds with an adapter

    The lens is now discontinued

    2) no you need more than a wet lens

    3) yes you can get a tokina 10-17 mm on a Olympus micro four thirds housing or a Sony APSC housing

  6. Adapting a Canon 8-15 onto micro43 gives a fairly unique solution giving a 180 deg diagonal full frame fisheye at 8mm and at 15mm you get the horizontal field of view of a 26mm lens all with excellent optical quality.   You can use either a 140mm or 100mm dome in the Nauticam system and you require the 34.7mm n85-n120 adapter, 20mm extension and the Canon zoom gear.   This will focus down to the dome.

    Unfortunately Nauticam designed the adapter around using the 0.7x speed booster from Metabones.  The smart adapter without optics is a better option but it requires an adapter to place the zoom gear correctly.  I believe Wolfgang cam up with asuitable design that can be 3D printed.

  7. On 2/6/2023 at 5:42 AM, Draq said:

    Nikon also makes (or made?) a 10.5 fisheye for DX and 16mm fisheye for FX formats, both of which can be used on Nikon mirrorless bodies with the Nikon FTZ adapter.

    NO!!!!!! Both these lenses have screw drive AF so will not AF with either of the current FTZs. Can be used in MF mode.

    Aloha from Waikiki ("pit stop" en route to Palau)!

    Tom

  8. 6 hours ago, ChrisRoss said:

    Adapting a Canon 8-15 onto micro43 gives a fairly unique solution giving a 180 deg diagonal full frame fisheye at 8mm and at 15mm you get the horizontal field of view of a 26mm lens all with excellent optical quality.   You can use either a 140mm or 100mm dome in the Nauticam system and you require the 34.7mm n85-n120 adapter, 20mm extension and the Canon zoom gear.   This will focus down to the dome.

    Unfortunately Nauticam designed the adapter around using the 0.7x speed booster from Metabones.  The smart adapter without optics is a better option but it requires an adapter to place the zoom gear correctly.  I believe Wolfgang cam up with asuitable design that can be 3D printed.

    There are two possibilities for this on canon

    One is to use a ring made as wolfgang indicated the other is to use a 40mm adapter port as per canon eos M. I was going down that route however I decided not to as otherwise all other rings have a 5mm offset

    On the tokina I think this works just fine as it I do not remember an adapter ring was required

  9. 1 hour ago, Tom_Kline said:

    NO!!!!!! Both these lenses have screw drive AF so will not AF with either of the current FTZs. Can be used in MF mode.

     

    Yes, thanks for correction.  Since I started using the 8-15, I have not used any of the fixed fisheyes and I thought they were AF-S.  I guess I should get them out one day and put them up for sale since I am not using them and did not even recall what kind of focus drive they use....

     

     

     

     

  10. The 10.5 is a G type (no aperture ring) but still has the screw drive. A mistake in the design since later DX bodies did not support screw drive. Most of the screw drive AF lenses have an aperture ring.

     

    Edited by Tom_Kline — fix
  11. On 2/5/2023 at 8:34 PM, Tassie Rohan said:

    Canon/Nikon 8-15 (full frame):  Only useful at 15mm, but on APS-C or M4/3 sensors has similar range as the Tokina, and better quality, for only 3-4 times the price..

    I have been using the Nikon 8-15mm fisheye on a Nikon Z6 II with the FTZ adapter and 140mm glass fisheye dome port and like it a lot! I can also use it with the Kinko 1.4 teleconverter for an effective 11-21mm (usable ~13-21mm). It focuses very fast and almost to the glass of the dome port. For me, it’s the perfect for CFWA. It has become my go-to travel setup, unless in need a rectilinear wide-angle lens with the 230mm dome for wrecks or split shots.

    Edited by LarryHallas
  12. Thanks for the great replies everyone - some very helpful comments! 

    My surface camera is a Nikon Z6, and I am leaning towards getting the Nikon 8-15 lens and putting it in a housing, possibly with a teleconverter: is there any image quality/focusing differences between a 100 or a 140mm port? 

    Will also look at a compact M43 set up for the 8-15: if anyone has a build that they like I would love to hear the details. 

    Thanks for you help. 

    Cheers,

    Rohan. 

     

     

     

     

     

  13. 5 hours ago, Tassie Rohan said:

    My surface camera is a Nikon Z6, and I am leaning towards getting the Nikon 8-15 lens and putting it in a housing, possibly with a teleconverter: is there any image quality/focusing differences between a 100 or a 140mm port? 

    The Nauticam port chart recommends the 140mm Fisheye Dome Port for the Z6 with the FTZ https://www.nauticam.com/pages/n120-nikon-f-mount-port-chart I have also used it with the 230mm dome.

    There is also a zoom gear made for the 8-15 with the Kinko 1.4 teleconverter Referenced in the same chart.

    Edited by LarryHallas
  14. 16 hours ago, Tassie Rohan said:

    Thanks for the great replies everyone - some very helpful comments! 

    My surface camera is a Nikon Z6, and I am leaning towards getting the Nikon 8-15 lens and putting it in a housing, possibly with a teleconverter: is there any image quality/focusing differences between a 100 or a 140mm port? 

    Will also look at a compact M43 set up for the 8-15: if anyone has a build that they like I would love to hear the details. 

    Thanks for you help. 

    Cheers,

    Rohan. 

     

     

     

     

     

    I shoot a cropped sensor,  and for DX, I see little difference between a 100 and a 140, except I am willing to use a wider aperture in a 140.  There was an article by Alex Mustard some time back, I think in UWP, in which he tested the 140 dome.  From that article (if I remember it correctly),  and general principles of dome size and sensor size, I would be hesitant to go below the 140 for full frame.  I do not believe focus speed/ability would matter between the 100 and 140.

    I have not used a Canon 8-15 on an Olympus.  Since you originally expressed interest in a compact size setup, that is likely worth further exploration.  However, you might want to also look at a Nikon Z50 and housing.  I believe it is only slightly larger than an OM housing and you will have a camera with lens interchangeability with your current land camera, similar menus and a sensor a bit larger than m43.  But as it is a full frame, you may not want to use a 100mm dome, and would be limited to either a circular image or 15mm focal length unless using a teleconverter. 

     

  15. 20 minutes ago, Draq said:

    I shoot a cropped sensor,  and for DX, I see little difference between a 100 and a 140, except I am willing to use a wider aperture in a 140.  There was an article by Alex Mustard some time back, I think in UWP, in which he tested the 140 dome.  From that article (if I remember it correctly),  and general principles of dome size and sensor size, I would be hesitant to go below the 140 for full frame.  I do not believe focus speed/ability would matter between the 100 and 140.

    I have not used a Canon 8-15 on an Olympus.  Since you originally expressed interest in a compact size setup, that is likely worth further exploration.  However, you might want to also look at a Nikon Z50 and housing.  I believe it is only slightly larger than an OM housing and you will have a camera with lens interchangeability with your current land camera, similar menus and a sensor a bit larger than m43.  But as it is a full frame, you may not want to use a 100mm dome, and would be limited to either a circular image or 15mm focal length unless using a teleconverter. 

     

    As owner of the 140mm I would say this dome is not that compact. The weight on land is 1.3kg and the housing becomes very negative when you use it. I have recently acquired a float belt as together with the evf there was no way to make the rig neutral no matter the number of floats on the arm

    I think the 4.33" acrylic solution is actually a very good option as it makes the rig less negative. Even the DP100 from Zen is very negative due to the not small weight and reduced buoyancy

    In hindsight (net of reflection) I should have got the 4.33" acrylic dome for my GH5 but it was not specified on the nauticam chart however I have been assured it is fully compatible with the canon 8-15 as it is with the nikon 8-15mm and of course the tokina 10-17mm

    I would like to find that article from @Alex_Mustard because on a recent piece from Matty Smith there are comparative photos of domes for the purpose of split shot and while it is fully understood why a huge dome is important for the topside part of a split shot I cannot see any strong evidence of better performance in the underwater part

  16. I often shoot the Zen170mm dome on a D850 with the Sigma15FE + Kenko 1.4tc. This combo makes for a really nice CFWA solution as well as general purpose WA. The dome is small and light enough to not present any difficulties in size or weight in my opinion. 

  17. 1 hour ago, Interceptor121 said:

    I would like to find that article from @Alex_Mustard because on a recent piece from Matty Smith there are comparative photos of domes for the purpose of split shot and while it is fully understood why a huge dome is important for the topside part of a split shot I cannot see any strong evidence of better performance in the underwater part

    I'll have a look and see what I can find, I have written about 1000 articles on underwater photography, so it is not always easy to find everything - and I have to say that a lot of these types of tests were just shared on the forums. Also I did most of this testing in the first years of shooting full frame digital underwater, which was 17 years ago now, which makes things tricky. 

    Before the Nauticam 140mm dome existed, I commissioned, the late, Ken Sullivan to make me such a dome for full frame shooting. It was an approximate 6” dome. I still have and use it. There is a passing reference to it in this article from 10 years ago:

    https://wetpixel.com/articles/review-and-field-notes-subal-nd4/P3

    I definitely did a lot of tests with it when I first started using it - to determine what aperture I was happy using it at. I remember concluding f/14 was pretty comparable to f/13 for image quality with a 230mm dome (on full frame). Which is the aperture I have used with it, ever since. And with the Nauticam 140mm, which pretty much has the same profile.

    Oh, and I just found the review of the Nauticam 140mm dome from 2014:

    https://wetpixel.com/articles/review-nauticam-140mm-dome-port-by-alex-mustard

    which was part of the Nikon D750 review:

    https://wetpixel.com/articles/field-review-nikon-d750-and-nauticam-na-d750/P1

    I would just add that we had small domes, long before we had big domes. The bigger ones were created for a reason.

    Alex

     

  18. 5 hours ago, Interceptor121 said:

    As owner of the 140mm I would say this dome is not that compact. The weight on land is 1.3kg and the housing becomes very negative when you use it. I have recently acquired a float belt as together with the evf there was no way to make the rig neutral no matter the number of floats on the arm

    I think the 4.33" acrylic solution is actually a very good option as it makes the rig less negative. Even the DP100 from Zen is very negative due to the not small weight and reduced buoyancy

    In hindsight (net of reflection) I should have got the 4.33" acrylic dome for my GH5 but it was not specified on the nauticam chart however I have been assured it is fully compatible with the canon 8-15 as it is with the nikon 8-15mm and of course the tokina 10-17mm

    I would like to find that article from @Alex_Mustard because on a recent piece from Matty Smith there are comparative photos of domes for the purpose of split shot and while it is fully understood why a huge dome is important for the topside part of a split shot I cannot see any strong evidence of better performance in the underwater part

    I have used the 140 quite a bit.  I have not experienced the problems you describe, but perhaps it is because I use a larger housing.   I have not conducted actual testing of port size and image quality, but have confidence in the reports of such testing by those who have done so.  A search on wetpixel will show numerous tests and comparisons going back several years.  I have not felt motivated to challenge or test the work of others in this regard.

    Thank you Alex for putting up the link to the article.  Sorry i did not recall it to be here on Wetpixel.

  19. I believe Wolfgang (user :Architeuthis) has used a 100mm dome with m43 camera and it worked well.  I use the 100mm dome on my Nauticam EM-1 mkII system and 8mm Panasonic and it's fine, I use two INON 390 gr floats with the system.  You may find with larger formats the 140mm dome is better, in general there will be a compromise to get closer in CFWA and the corners suffer a littl.  If you play with a fisheye, you will see how the subject size in frame increases dramatically as you get very close and thextra few inches make a difference.

     

  20. I'll have a look and see what I can find, I have written about 1000 articles on underwater photography, so it is not always easy to find everything - and I have to say that a lot of these types of tests were just shared on the forums. Also I did most of this testing in the first years of shooting full frame digital underwater, which was 17 years ago now, which makes things tricky. 

    Before the Nauticam 140mm dome existed, I commissioned, the late, Ken Sullivan to make me such a dome for full frame shooting. It was an approximate 6” dome. I still have and use it. There is a passing reference to it in this article from 10 years ago:

    https://wetpixel.com/articles/review-and-field-notes-subal-nd4/P3

    I definitely did a lot of tests with it when I first started using it - to determine what aperture I was happy using it at. I remember concluding f/14 was pretty comparable to f/13 for image quality with a 230mm dome (on full frame). Which is the aperture I have used with it, ever since. And with the Nauticam 140mm, which pretty much has the same profile.

    Oh, and I just found the review of the Nauticam 140mm dome from 2014:

    https://wetpixel.com/articles/review-nauticam-140mm-dome-port-by-alex-mustard

    which was part of the Nikon D750 review:

    https://wetpixel.com/articles/field-review-nikon-d750-and-nauticam-na-d750/P1

    I would just add that we had small domes, long before we had big domes. The bigger ones were created for a reason.

    Alex

     

    Thanks for the link to the article

    The Sigma 15mm has a specific design. The lens is smaller than other fisheye from Canon or Nikon 8-15mm but the working distance is the same. Here is a link to the lens design

    https://photonstophotos.net/GeneralTopics/Lenses/OpticalBench/OpticalBench.htm#Data/JP1990-248910_Example01P.txt

    Note how the PD is set 16.34mm from the front of the lens while the distance from the image plane is I-P=78.89mm

    Considering a working distance of 150mm and taking out I-P results in 71.11mm

    This means the dome inner radius must be at least 71.11 otherwise the lens won't be able to focus right on the dome when housed.

    Nauticam 140mm dome whose radius is 69mm just falls short of this specifications.

    In addition a smaller dome like Zen DP100 (100mm on the outside but 94mm on the inside) will not work well with this lens which will still not be able to focus as close as required. The smaller dome will only result in less useable working range for the lens. Definitely not a good combination for this lens. I would also add not a good choice of minidome for the Nikon 16mm Canon 16mm fisheye all lenses that do not focus close enough to work well with small domes and really requires larger ports.

    However the Canon 8-15mm or the Nikon 8-15mm are much larger lenses with the same working distance from the image plane of the Sigma 15mm also more expensive if I can add.

    Looking at the canon and doing the same calculations of the sigma results in a minumum radius of just 39.55mm to focus right on the glass. I would therefore conclude that users of those 8-15mm lenses (nikon is pretty much the same) can actually use a very small dome and the camera when house will focus right on it. I am not suggesting this is the right thing to do however if you wanted to get very close you can do it with those lenses.

    In terms of depth of field you need to take into accoun that the focus distance is taken from the image plane not from the centre of the dome. So if you consider the same example of the Canon 8-15mm you need to add 108mm to the virtual image plus the space inside the dome

    Assuming Nauticam 140mm dome this is 108+69+(69*3)=384mm infinity

    If you take a dome with a radius of 12cm (similar to the nauticam 230 wide angle port) this is 108+120+(120*3)=588mm infinity

    None of those ports will have enough depth of field at f/22 to reach the infinity point when the target is touching the dome

    Now some other theoretical calculations

    Imagine a target at half meter with a 6" dome this will be around 12.5 cm from the dome surface however this means 30cm from the focal plane. At f/8 this already covers 0.43m which is larger than the infinity point

    The same target at half meter with a 10" dome is actually 18cm from the surface however this means 40cm from the focal plane with the infinity point at 58cm. I can cover that range at f/6.3

    As the target moves further away the requirements on depth of field drop.

    So the larger dome results in a 2/3 stops increase in depth of field for a 1.66x size increase. Looking at weight for reference to the nauticam 140mm fisheye dome and the 230mm wide angle port the weight is double

    Obviously if you are interested in the sharpness front to bottom larger is better and if your lens does not focus that close larger is mandatory 

    Generally all the calculations I am running under the assumption the dome is properly placed at the entrance pupil show that on fisheye lenses improvement in depth of field in stops is pretty much log2(radius1/radius2). 

    So a dome with 11cm radius will have 2/3 stops over one of 7cm radius. And the difference between 4.33" and 5 1/2" is 1/3 BUT you need to make sure your lens can focus. The Canon/Nikon 8-15mm will work with any size you like ultimately it becomes a compromise between size/cost/quality 

    I am still puzzled by the 230mm wide angle port being called at times a fisheye dome when it does not cover 180 degrees but that is another story

     

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