7 hours ago, Phil Rudin said:Hi Julian,
Lots of useful information has been suggested above and I would add this. Before you invest in anymore equipment you may want to see if adding the tele is going to suite your needs. This can simply be done with the basic Nauticam setup for the Canon 8-15mm. If you already own the lens, gear and N100 to N120 35.5 port adapter, N120 30 extension and 140mm dome. On the A1 assign a button for APS-C to one of the housing controls and toggle between the lens shooting in full frame and the APS-C. In APS-C you will get the same file size as your D500 and you will get an idea how this will actually work for you looking into the EVF/LCD underwater. I am well aware that this can be done in post by popping a full frame image but it's just not the same as doing it in the water. The APS-C mode is a 1.5 rather than the tele 1.4 but you can get an idea if this difference works for you before you make any further investment.
This where calculations come in, The OP has already said above he was happy with the view offered by the Tokina 10-17 at 10-12mm range. This range is 15-18mm on a full frame system and the 8-15 with a 1.4x gives a lens with 11-21mm focal length range. The 11-15mm range is not usable as it doesn't fill the frame or provide a circular image, but 15 -21 mm is perfectly usable. It's not quite as much reach as 10-17 on APS-C.
You can certainly try it out and using APS-C crop is perfectly viable way to test it, but if you have to go on a 2 week trip to Tonga for humpback whales for example you won't have the optimum solution with you for that trip and you may not have whales to play with close to home to test.