Thank you all for your input. I will continue to ponder this. Maybe I just need to skip taking camera on some dive trips or get a case for my cell phone for underwater snapshots. @dhaas makes a strong argument for the GX7 and it serves him well.
The EM10 / EM5 idea is intriguing, especially since I still have several lenses and ports for that system. Using a handstrap and the cold shoe to mount strobes as suggested by Alex would make a pretty small camera. Battery life is not great, but can be dealt with.
Maybe I should limit myself to more photography-suitable dive trips, but that means less diving and I do like diving. It also would limit my ability to try new places and new dive operations.
Another thought that has occurred to me is that on the less “interesting” trips, I could just take the D500 with a macro port, the 60mm and a couple s2000 strobes. Cutting out the Retras and extra lenses, extension rings and ports might be a good intermediate step and I could do macro and some fish portraits.
Or, maybe I should just suck it up and continue to deal with the size and weight.
Again, thank you for the input.