Grantmac

Nauticam replied saying that although they will physically bolt up the alignment of the WWL-1 is much more critical than the MWL-1, which was something I wasn't expecting. Saved me a $550 experiment however.

I'd be interested in the bayonet mount

I recently "downgraded" from an A6500 (in a Sea Frogs salted) to a GH4, mainly because it was practically free including the Nauticam housing. I haven't dove it much but for my uses (mostly social media) it seems a better format with more appropriate lenses, higher sync speed and wider white balance capabilities. I can foresee going to a newer body down the road. I'm unsure if I'll miss the IBIS and higher native ISO.

The holder I'm referring to is specific to the MWL-1 but looks like the same flange size as the WWL-1. I don't think I'd try it on the regular adapter.

The weight is the same both in and out of water. The MWL-1 is actually longer and only 22mm less diameter.

Currently using a WWL-1 with native M67 threads. I notice that Nauticam has a special flip adapter for the MWL-1 which looks to be the same bolt on flange. The lenses are the same weight/buoyancy. Any reason it wouldn't work? It would let me stay away from going to the bayonet mount and also let me have a diopter available.

That is correct. I don't think I'd need to take as much off if my port wasn't the wide Seafrogs. But it still only took perhaps an hour.

Just heated a utility knife with a propane torch and cut until it fit. The bungees hold it in place and aren't visible with my housing. If you didn't intend to remove it the bungees wouldn't be necessary. I found out the flat BTS collar would just float it but the cost works out to 2x as much as the Stix per unit if floating. I do have some BTS floats to try on my arms but conditions aren't ideal at the moment. I might drop one in my friends pressure pot which goes to 10bar.

Hmmm that's definitely not ideal. Although I don't currently photograph on the deeper dives it's in my future.

Any speaking to the quality of BTS vs Stix? I have some BTS pieces now which feel almost rigid but haven't had anything from STIX in my hands to compare them with. I definitely want to keep the lens and housing flotation as tight as possible to get my strobes in tight for CFWA. I suppose I could print a port collar which has cut-outs on the side or could modify the BTS/Stix ones to do similar. I'd be hesitant to hack parts out of the Nauticam collar considering it's already a bit light on flotation. I also have a set of these kicking around: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/592166-REG/Aquatica_17892_Buoyancy_Compensating_Float.html Which I might be able to mount on the WWL, they are too awkward when mounted on the arms.

I adapted an AOI collar to my UWL100 using a hot knife. It's not perfect but works rather well. Importantly it's perfectly neutral so if I remove it and put it on an arm it's not changing anything. That's what I was hoping to achieve. I suppose it's worth seeing if Moziak can get in the Stix collar. I was considering 3D printing a collar in sections to mimic the Stix/BTS system but with a custom fit. Then I can test one piece at a time in my pressure pot if I really want to get fancy.

So I don't currently have the float collar. Looking at specs the lens seems to be about 600g negative without it which would be a rather significant print. The Stix 12 section collar should do it with some customizing, unfortunately expensive to get in Canada with the current tariff situation .

Yes I've read through that and it's definitely interesting. I'm likely to focus on a cheap 3D printed solution which will use a bungee and bolt snap. Getting my whole rig neutral (which I've started a thread on) will be a significant part of the equation.

The Nauticam collar has the lens still rather negative. I'm considering using either the BTS Flat Port collar (no buoyancy specs) or Stixs 12 segment collar. I'd like to get the lens as close to perfectly neutral as possible.

I should have mentioned that I do a fair amount of DPV assisted dives and I'll be looking at mounting options. Less to shoot while scooting and more to get the camera off my body.