Grantmac

If you decide to separate let me know. I'd be interested in the 10-18 and dome, possible the macro and port as well.

When I was starting from zero on this I decided to learn free open source programs instead. Food for thought.

Anything which predicts to create an image isn't the original image. I don't personally want to take credit for an image which AI produced.

Is AI upscaling actually your images though? I tend to believe it's not.

You use the ring and no defuser? I've been trying to defuse my way past the poor water conditions we get this time of year, perhaps I need to DIY some rings.

https://bluerobotics.com/store/watertight-enclosures/locking-series/wte-end-cap-vp/ Seems like a variety of domes?

I think BluRov have a 6" hemispherical dome. That might be worth building something around. A dome which is cheap and easy to replace would be a nice for CFWA.

I've wondered if the BluRov hemispherical dome ports could be used to make a fisheye port. They are cheap enough and very robust.

Starting to get the hang of the 12mm. Curious to see if I can get better image quality from the 15mm. This lens definitely does what I wanted for low light wreck shots.

The MF60 is currently on sale on Amazon. I picked one up.

If looking at more budget friendly options I'd take one of the new aluminum Seafrogs over an Ikelite.

That's what I've been doing using my bathtub. It's just not very sharp compared to the 12mm which makes no sense since the universal opinion is the 15mm is a sharper lens. Shooting wide open I was able to confirm the markings match the focal length. I can perhaps do some longer range tests in a week or so although I'm likely just going to shooting the 12mm and look for 15mm in better shape. This one has some issues with the focus gear sticking.

Update: The 12mm is significantly sharper. Also focus peaking at least at close range is all but useless. I think it's likely my 15mm has some issues and I'll try to find another since I like it's perspective for wrecks. The 12mm in Super35/ASP-C is pretty similar although obviously a little distorted.

This is what I was trying to do. I just shot some tests in my bathtub and the focus marks do align with the focal distance at least at shorter distance. However what I'm seeing is that the lens itself just isn't very sharp and gets worse wide open. They aren't particularly expensive so I may just buy another and see. I'll dry things off and swap on the Sea&Sea 12mm to compare.

The guides on the lens itself. I'm not finding peaking to be particularly accurate unfortunately.