ChipBPhoto

Thanks Dave - I’ll give these a try. Really appreciate it!

Good suggestion. Actually I remove the cable underwater and see the trigger itself inside the housing is not firing.

Hmmm…Interesting hypothesis. With that in mind, theoretically creating a greater pressure inside by pumping the vacuum an extra pump could create a similar result as external pressure on the buttons.

All good questions. Yes, when it fails at the beginning of the dive, it’s out for the entire dive. Turning the camera off/on has no impact. I too questioned the pressure aspect, but it’s an aluminum housing at only 10’. I articulate the shutter, press various buttons, but nothing changes. I’ve even left it off for 15 mins + and then turned the camera on again. No change. I did not test it again in the parking lot before I left. (I was just a bit frustrated). When I got home I simply turned on the camera did it worked fine. The housing was still sealed/pressurized. I also checked the battery spring arm and it is very tight against the batteries. When I use the vacuum pump, I vacuum until the light turns solid green and then about 1/4 of a pump more. I do use this body almost exclusively for uw work. It’s really a very bizarre mystery.

Hi @DreiFish - thanks for sharing. Interesting comparison.

Hi Mike - thanks for the great info. I’m on a liveaboard. I do like wrecks which is why I chose it. I’ll also do some touristy things around Cairo, etc. which will be more comfortable at that time. Bummer about no big schools, but just means I’ll have to go back again. What did you see for both water and air temps?

I have been scratching my head on this one so I am reaching out to the global brain trust. Equipment: Sony a1, UW Technics flash trigger for a7RIV/a1, Nauticam Housing, Inon Z-330 strobes, Fiber connection Issue: Flash trigger and strobes fires fine in test at home. Submerge in water (only 10’) and trigger periodically no longer fires. Housing is holding seal with no leaks. Return home and trigger fires correctly. -This has happened 3 times with no pre warning.- No difference in camera, strobe, or trigger settings, pre-dive prep, etc. Trigger is set to “0” for manual. Strobes are not the issue - the trigger is not firing as verified by removing filter cable and viewing housing flash windows. Batteries were recently changed and are authentic Energizer batteries. (No generics). Again, fires correctly in pre-dive tests and then fires correctly in post-dive evaluation, just not underwater on rare occasion. I have used this exact setup for 200+ dives, but have had the failure 3 times total. This most recent failure is today, 7 months and roughly 100+ dives since the last failure. I have also replaced the UW Technics trigger with a new one to make sure it was not a defective unit. I have reviewed with other local photo pros and we are all drawing a blank. They all love theirs and have no issues. UW Technics claims have never heard of this. In frustration I’m even considering replacing my a1 in case it is an obscure short with the hot shoe, but am trying not to go to that extreme. Any ideas or has anyone heard of this weirdness elsewhere? #uwtechnics @uwtechnics

In the SoFL dive community, S&S are considered the least dependable. Unfortunately, due to this they are not recommended by leading uw photography stores. Inon is considered the most dependable / best quality at a reasonable price. I personally have gone through the evolution of the Inon S-2000s, Z-240s, and now Z-330s. If you can find a clean used set they will be an even better price. Just make sure you change the main battery cap o-ring every year or 2 and don’t over tighten the cap. Those are the only 2 considerations I know of to make them last. The Retras are of course the high water mark, but come with the matching price tag. I have not heard any complaints at all regarding their quality. Could be a good investment. Hope this helps.

Loving the episodes @Alex_Mustard ! You and Matthew have a nice chemistry and flow. Great info; look forward to seeing more!

Truly outstanding work @bghazzal ! Fascinating to see the development of the eggs. Keep them coming!

I wasn’t a fan at all when the subscription came to be. With that said, they’ve held up there end of the bargain by making a pretty solid system with frequent, mostly positive regular updates. For both Sony and Fuji, I looked in to Capture One. The normal purchase price (off sale) would equal almost 2 years of payments for LR and PS. I know there are cheaper alternatives, but I’ve been happy with LR and all they have done to support the mostly seamless flow between mobile and desktop editing. This allows me to literally travel with an iPad and SSD drive while still being productive. That’s a big win for me! Mileage may vary for others.

Great images @KevinLee ! I loved my Fuji X-T cameras, especially for travel. I never put them in a housing, but clearly they are solid tools in that world as well. Nicely done!

Terrific images @Pooley ! Thanks for also sharing info on the EMWL. I’m planning to do the Northern Red Sea this November. Question - How is the fish life overall that time of year? I’ve heard the big schools of fish are in the May-Aug time frame.

Great frames @MrChen! Between the recent schools of eagle rays and manatee, it’s tough to decide between macro and wide. Hoping to get there in the AM.

Good question - I found the a1 a tiny bit faster in focus due to the stacked sensor. It was night and day over the RIV. Between the a1 and the RV, is it a deal breaker? Not really. The RV is very close in real usage. If you didn’t do a side-by-side comparison most would never notice. I have a friend that just bought an RV rig and loves it. You should see a big improvement using the Sony 90 with either. It still hunts a bit, but is much better than what you’re probably experiencing now. I found the 28-60 with the WACP-C focused similarly between them, but again most likely faster and more accurate than you’re seeing now. For what it’s worth, Alex Mustard faced the same questions and ended up with the a1. The sole reason was the 1/400 sync option. He is also a Retra user so gets the HSS benefit. (I use Z330s, so no HSS for me) The a1v2 is the unicorn many are chasing. While various rumor sites keep the dream alive, there is no real feel for when we may see an update. Honestly, either would be a great choice, especially with the lens options you’re using.

Bienvenue JB! I absolutely love France. I definitely need to book a trip to dive in the Med. If I do, I’ll be sure to reach out for suggestions.

Hi @Buddha. Yep, I made that same decision last year. First, both are excellent choices! It’s a great problem to have to decide between two such capable bodies. Over previous models, both have: - Significantly better focus - Much better menu system - Substantially better white balance - Dual SD/CF Type A slots I believe both will allow the video button to be reassigned, but don’t hold me to it. In my humble opinion, here are the high points for each: a1: - Higher flash sync speed (1/400 vs 1/250) Good for controlling sun balls and black background in macro Note - need a trigger that will support it - Faster overall focus due to stacked sensor - High res at 50MP / 21 MP in APS-C mode - Great video specs, if you do that later a7rV: - Higher res at 61MP / 26MP in APS-C mode - New AI focus engine “May” pick up eyes slightly better, but not as fast as a1 - Unique flip screen may be better for land-based photos - Good video as a hybrid camera, if you decide to do it - A bit lower cost I actually had both and had a chance to use them in land based photo situations. When I say it was a close choice, it was an extremely close choice as both are truly fantastic and a significant improvement over earlier models. I had an a7rIV previously and struggled with white balance and focus speed, especially with the Sony 90. I ended up keeping the a1 and put it in a Nauticam housing with the WACP-C. In the US I’ve seen the a1 going for as low as $4700 new. For me, the 1/400 sync speed and stacked sensors for fast focus were the deciders. Note - to get the 1/400 speed you need to use a trigger that can support it such as the UW Technics. This will also do HSS with Retra strobes if you eventually go that way. With all that said, I’m sure you will be happy with either for years to come!

Thanks!

Nice images! Yes, mystery solved on C vs 1. I was told: - WWL-C was designed around the 24mm focal length. - WWL-1 was designed around the 28mm length. - Quality between C and 1 is basically the same.

Hey @Gudge - thanks for sharing the image examples! Aside from the minor vignetting, it actually looks pretty good. Agreed that on a black water dive would be a moot issue. If you wouldn’t mind, could you please measure the length of the Metabones/60 assembly and let us know? Only the section that would extend out from the body. That may give a rough idea of the port length needed. @Isaac Szabo - the Sony 90 is definitely faster on the a1 and a7rV than previous models. Huge improvement! With that said, it still hunts more than one would see from other lenses. Nothing we can really do about it, but the terrific image quality makes it worth while.

The WWL-1 does not appear to be compatible with Canon RF lenses according to the Nauticam N120 RF chart. However, the RF 24-50, released Feb 2023, provides an option. It seems to match with both the WACP-C and WWL-C, which is a big win. (Per 6/23 chart link below) I personally haven’t tried it, but I would assume the WWL-C performs similarly to the WWL-1, which I know well. Initially, it was designed to be the WWL for compact lenses, but the physics work for the RF 24-50. As a bonus, it’s smaller than the WWL-1. Keep in mind the more simple, cheaper lenses often work better in the wet optics systems. The WWL and WACP does the heavy lifting of correcting and sharpening specifically for water. Personally, I like the versatility of the WWL / WACP. Aside from true macro, it covers 90%+ of what I want to photo. Even though I may dive with a specific subject in mind, I can photo most anything I may encounter. I’ve even come back with some nice closeup detail images of Flamingo Tongues. With that said, everyone has their own priorities and rig they like. In the end, it is up to you which way, or a different way, you want to go. Hope this helps! https://www.nauticam.com/pages/n120-canon-r-mount-port-chart

Thanks @Davide DB and @fruehaufsteher2 for sharing! Great recap!

Hi @Isaac Szabo Thanks for sharing your experience and example with the EF-S 60. I have the Sony 90 for my a1; other than the slow focus speed, I enjoy it. I’ve been considering a shorter macro lens and have heard the same stories of even slower focus from the Sony 50 macro. The Canon 60/Metabones sounds interesting, especially if the focus is as fast and accurate as it was on my old Canon APS-C rig. Question - what port are you using for this combination?

Congrats - sounds like a great system! Would enjoy hearing your thoughts after the test drive.

Hi @Landvogt1893 Great question. I have owned/used the WWL-1 with my Sony 28-60 for several years. I suspect the WWL-C would have a relatively similar image quality. I too find it to be a terrific system; far batter than a traditional dome. About a year ago I picked up a WACP-C. After about 50 dives with it I feel the image quality between the two is extremely close. The WACP-C does edge it out by a hair if you compare the exact same image side by side, but you have to look closely. With that said, there are some differences that may or may not be relevant. The WACP-C allows about a stop of extra sharpness. I find the WWL is sharp edge to edge at f/11, with f/8 being mostly acceptable sharpness on the edges. The WACP-C is edge to edge sharp at f/9 (or f/8), with f/5.6 being possible. (Your mileage may vary based on the edge detail and personal expectations). The WWL requires it to be “burped” after entry to ensure no water bubbles form between the port and WWL that can disrupt focus. The WACP does not as it is a port. I call it a “jump and go” system, which especially useful if you need to make a quick entry and do not want to run the risk of missing the needed burp. The WWL is a little lighter and perhaps easier for travel due to being 2 pieces. The WACP is slightly heavier and a tad more negative requiring just a little more buoyancy. And then there’s the cost difference. This may or may not be a consideration. For me, I live in South Florida where I do mostly local diving. As such I use the WACP-C most often because travel size and weight are not a concern. If I were traveling more I would most likely stay with the WWL as the quality is so close, and I had already invested in it. I hope this gives you some useful info to consider. I know there are others who have shared similar experiences. It all comes down to your personal priorities. Best of luck in your decision!