ChipBPhoto

In my personal experience and usage, my Sigma MC-11 does not lock up with my Canon 8-15, even in burst mode or quick repetitive shutter action. It similarly works with the TC and has been widely used by people I know. Others choose the Metabones option, which is also fine. Enjoy!

Time to select the right hammer? 🤔 Seriously, sorry to hear. Very frustrating!

Hi @JB_Cazajous I use a Sony FF with a WWL and had the same question. (I was also very excited about the FCP). As you read below please keep in mind I too needed to stay within a reasonable price for all, but wanted to get the best possible quality for what I could afford as I plan to keep it for quite some time. I have found the Canon 8-15 with the Sigma MC-11 adapter to be an exceptional option. The Canon “L” glass is a bit pricy, but legendary for its quality and sharpness. There are plenty of good quality 8-15s available on the used market at an acceptable price. I also tried the Metabones V adapter, but found the MC-11 was not only cheaper, but easier to use and works very well with a super fast / accurate focus in a slightly smaller package. This also allows the circular 8mm fisheye image, if you get the zoom gear. When used sparingly it adds a cool effect to your dive photo options. You can also add a 1.4x teleconverter to this lens for a little extra reach with the wide view. As far as domes, I chose the Nauticam 140mm. It is small, easy to maneuver uw, and sharp. Be sure to get the model with the removable shade if you want to be able to do the circular images. With this lens/port solution I can basically focus right on a starfish arm and have an amazing CFWA image. Zen also makes a 100mm dome designed for the Canon 8-15. I used a similar one with my APS-C system, but per Alex Mustard he found the 140 dome was the smallest size with acceptable corners for a FF system. A larger dome such as 170, 180, or 230 will allow the option of split images, but there is the size and cost to consider. I personally was more interested in smaller dive and transport size than doing the occasional split, but others have different priorities. With that said, technically you can do a split with the 140 dome, but it will be challenging. You will need to be in still water for the best chance. Remember any dome option will begin with the N100-N120 port adapter. From there you can use any N120 dome or port on your Sony system once you have the appropriate extension. For the Canon solution I outlined above you will need: - Nauticam N100-N120 adapter - 30mm extension (120) - 140 Dome (N120) - If you add a 1.4x teleconverter, add a 20mm extension I also agree the Nikon 13mm conversion is now a very solid option, and is even smaller. This was not openly available when I bought my setup. You will find many options by those claiming to have the “best solution.” The best solution for you is what fits your personal needs. Enjoy!

Here you are @brightnight…. Use smartphone as monitor - Video Gear and Technique - Wetpixel Underwater Photography Forums 2.pdf

You too??? 😂😂😂 I just bought a wide lens and basic tray for my GoPro 9. There are days that’s all I want to carry. 😎

To @Barmaglot very good point, no, a system neither needs to be the most expensive or the newest. Not at all, in fact. Bottom line, it’s just a tool to make a photo or video. We can go to a hardware store and see a wall of different types and brands of hammers. Does one work better than the other? Perhaps, depending on the specific task, but they are all hammers. With that said, some of my favorite images were made with a Canon G11 compact flash camera and $200 Canon plastic housing. I then used my Canon T2i APS-C DSLR for 11 years and made some very nice images. Ironically, cameras today like the TG6/7 and even GoPros can get certain images better than my current much larger rig due to their size. We are incredibly fortunate to have so many choices in so many price ranges at our disposal. At the end of the day, it’s all about making a memory and the challenge of creating art under the waves. I absolutely agree that new tech does provide some tremendous benefits like much faster focus, less noise, and larger file sizes with which to work. Back to the hammer analogy, it all depends on the type of task and personal budget to find the right tool.

No clue at all! 😂😂😂

Good call on the Rocket Blower. This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RKYWBD2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2KE1MJRDTDO9P&th=1

I completely relate to your question and concern. I bought a Canon T2i and Nauticam housing in 2010. I used it for stills for 11 years because 1) it worked well, 2) was super small, and 3) didn’t want to spend the big money for a new housing. When the Nauticam WACP and WWL optics came out, it was time to upgrade. I’ve personally used the Sony a7Riii, a7Riv, a7Rv, and now have an a1. If you’re going to upgrade in the Sony world, I would highly recommend going to the a7Rv over an older model. The focus system and new menu system introduced in the a7Rv / a1 is a true game changer over the Riv! It will easily last you for years to come and is definitely worth the jump. Put your browser in private mode and clear your cache after you peruse the ads to cover the incriminating shopping evidence. The Auditor General will never know 😂

Completely agree with everything said above. I would absolutely advise against trying to service the housing oneself. It would be like owning a Ferrari and doing your own engine services. There are a lot of tiny parts due to the intricate internal design. In addition to soaking and articulating buttons in fresh water, Reef Photo gave me the tip to blow out the excess water from under the buttons when drying to keep residue from building up underneath. I use an electric blower normally used to clean out computers. ($30-50 on Amazon) I was shocked how much blows out! Making sure the housing is dried with a soft cloth will keep it from leaving milky water spots on the finish. I log roughly 200+ dives per year with mine. If you take the time to clean it you will rarely, if ever, need to send it in for service. Enjoy!

Congrats @homodelphinius on your new rig! Without trying to sound like a cliche, it really does depend how well you clean and dry your housing and extensions after use. I had my 1st Nauticam housing for 11 years with 200+ dives a year. I went over 9 years before it was serviced. And yes, it looked brand new when I got it back! Even the white lettering was repainted. 😳 I have never serviced an extension ring other than replacing the main o-ring. (85, 100, or 120) All parts are extremely well made and durable which is why I chose them. With that said, I am also quite meticulous about soaking the rig each night after use, articulating the buttons and knobs while in the warm water, and then thoroughly drying it. I found an electric air blower to quickly blow out the water from under the buttons/levers, which in turn keeps them free from build-up. I do this even when I am on a repetitive day dive trip. I am most likely the extreme in this area compared to most, but it has paid off for me over the years. Definitely an investment to purchase, but well worth it!

Exactly @TimG! I’ve worked on manufacturing teams my entire career. I fully appreciate the costs involved with developing and producing new technology. I also am very familiar with setting new prices that seem very high at first, but eventually become more accepted based on product benefits and the initial shock wearing off. The end of 2024 will tell us a great deal about both the real product benefits and overall public acceptance. At the end of the day, net sales vs. projections is what really counts to the company. It also has a huge determination as to what the company produces next for both retail consumers and beyond.

I’m sure it’s amazing, but at $7,000 that puts it in a very unique and limited group who can afford it and/or are willing to pay for it. Unfortunately that’s not me at this time. We will see what the future holds or if there is a smaller, more affordable version that may come out down the road. (I.e. WWL series)

Hi John, Alex Mustard put together a couple videos on settings he uses. (Note: the a1 and a7RV have the same menus.) It is broken into 2 videos. I found these very helpful in general, including capturing small subjects. I am sure others will have specific feedback as well. One of the biggest adjustments I have done with mine is setting custom buttons and custom menus. It really helps in the real world to quickly make the setting changes as needed on the fly. Enjoy your new rig! chip

This is very interesting and opens up new possibilities. On land I am a Canon photog. The 14-35 is a fantastic lens and one I use often. Who knows, I may even bring my R5 under the waves.

Very excited to learn more and try it! Seems this will dramatically expand the cross lens and brand functionality.

Based on the photo @Alex_Mustard posted, it appears the lens hood could be removable for 180ish fisheye images? (White dots on both the body and hood) I am curious as to the overall size for travel. (Rough diameter and height using a basic ruler or tape measure)

Hi Wolfgang - congrats on the WACP-C. I use the same setup on my Sony FF. (WACP-C + 8-15/140 dome) I have found it works great overall and is relatively easy for travel. Best of luck!

If you’ve never used a 45 viewfinder, be aware it may take a couple of dives to get used to the new way you view and photo your subjects. Once you have it down you’ll love it, especially if you do any macro or low angle photos. Now the hard part…waiting for it to arrive. 😂 Best of luck!

Agreed - the 0.8:1 is fantastic! It allows the viewer to see the entire viewfinder image, especially with the high-quality ones on new cameras. I upgraded from my original Nauticam view finder to the 0.8:1 and it was a game changer.

Many thanks @Dave_Hicks, @TimG, and @Tom Kline for the comments and insight. Really great feedback for consideration! Seems HSS and snoot options are the big wins. Using a reflector and low power in low vis also sounds very interesting.

Great info and observations in the new Retras. I’m currently using a pair of Z-330s [Type 2]. So far I’ve been very happy with them. Question - What is the real advantage to upgrading to the new Retras? Obviously this would involve a noticeable increase in cost. I’m not opposed to it, but would like to know the what I would get for the “investment.” Thanks in advance!

Greetings all - Chip here, based in So Florida. Looking forward to helping grow this site to be the new go-to destination for all things underwater photo/video related!