waso

Thanks for the link! It will provide me with good entertainment for this evening. 😁

Actually, the WWL was never on my shopping list. Before I started this thread, I was almost sure to buy a WACP-C.🫢 After Christmas, I will first buy and modify the Commlite RF/EF adapter to determine how big the IQ difference is compared to the older Kenko and after that, I'll probably buy the 140mm FE Port.

Thanks, this link works. Actually, I was already reading the whole thread a few days ago (before I started this thread).

If the light situation allows, I was always trying to shoot at least between F13 and F16 which makes the corner sharpness somehow acceptable for me, even better @ F18. With the small dome, I would probably always try to stop down to F16 as well. That's all I can squeeze out of the system (5D4 with 8-15/4), all images with a 230mm superdome: No crop, Canon 5D4, 8-15/4 (no TC), F14: 100% crop lower left corner: Slightly better with F16, same combination: 100% crop lower left corner: It sometimes makes sense to place the focus point quite far forward, because the corners of the image (at least with reef images) are usually closer to the sensor than the image center. The exception, of course, is a wall. Canon 5D4, 8-15/4 (+1,4 Kenko TC!) @ 19mm, F13: 100% crop lower right corner: Canon 5D4, 8-15/4 (+1,4 Kenko TC!) @ 21mm, F14: 100% crop lower right corner: And finally an example of the R5, 8-15/4 (no TC), F16: 100% crop lower left corner: That's something I would really appreciate.

Thanks - it's now on my shopping list. Unfortunately I just see a white rectangle and no link. 🤔 Well, I can imagine that using the 8-15 on a 4/3 is a maximum of flexibility. I asked a friend of mine to send me images from the WACP-C made with a 5D4 and an EF 28-80. I'm very curious to compare these pictures with mine, taken with the 8-15 and 1.4TC.

Well, in the worst case I have to take off the shades before the dive. Actually, I never(!) made photos with my old Seacam FMP using the 8-15 in circular mode, but in some situation it could be a nice option anyway. I would appreciate this coating on a superdome 😁... was always struggling to avoid drops in the image. Honestly: do you use the small dome for split shots? How ist the corner sharpness with your Marelux system now? Do you know the exact position of the entrance pupil of the 8-15? It might move a bit zooming in and out... The 8-15 is relatively forgiving regarding exact positioning and corner sharpness behind a dome - at least much more than a rectilinear WA lens. Do you have a link to this dome? I'm very open about 3rd party stuff (already bought something from Saga) and just curious. Btw: do you consider using the 8-15 in combination with a TC? For me it was the set up in at least 80% of my WA dives: almost no quality loss and much more flexibility - and as I wrote, I wasn't shooting circular yet.

Sorry if this answer came across as a bit harsh. 🙏 But it's a fact that a great IQ above water is no guarantee for underwater. Of course, optical disasters above water don't improve underwater, but often simple optical calculations have advantages underwater. Well, I'll post findings and results here asap, proised. At least opticallimits (photozone before) was doing some of their testings with a 5Ds, which is still the canon reference concerning resolution. And some comparisons can also be made quite well at the-digital-picture site. I'll most likely go for the 140mm FE dome first which is hardly recommended here in the forum. A good solution if the IQ is already better than with my Seacam superdome - and quite affordable and compact. And I'll try the modified Commlite adapter to shoot with the RF 1,4TC which should enable a better IQ than my old Kenko. Just need to know which extension rings I need - as far as I remember 30mm and another 20mm for the TC. And for split shots I really have to invest in a big dome some day. Btw: there is a so called Nauticam N120 9" (230mm) Fisheye Dome: https://sagadive.com/en/product/cupula-nauticam-n120-5-5-140mm-fisheye/ Is this a misinformation? I can't find this item on the Nauticam site.

I currently own an EF 8-15/4 and an RF 14-35/4. I previously owned a 16-35/4 and a 17-40/4 (didn't use this one uw). I'm familiar with these sites, but photozone is now called https://opticallimits.com/ (which I find very reputable), and I also prefer the-digital-picture for A/B comparisons. However, none of this helps in the search for high-quality lenses for underwater photography, since the complex optical designs and intricate constructions of lenses often only produce mediocre results underwater. Btw: the lenstip.com link doesn't work, but I found the website. Unfortunately, it seems that no RF lenses are tested there - at least I can't find a single review. I used the 5D4 for years and the difference in resolution between the 5D Mark IV and the R5 is much smaller in reality than it appears on paper. The long edge has 6720 px compared to 8192 px, which is just a little bit over 20% less. And of course, the RF 100/2,8 has very good optical quality - I'm using it myself.

Could someone please confirm that this is the 140mm dome port that is recommended for the 8-15/4? Thanks! Nauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120) | PanOceanPNauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120)...House of Underwater Photography | Nauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120 | authorized Nauticam Dealer in Germany | FREE SHIPPING within th

No misunderstanding from my side. 😁 There was(!) a EF 16-35/4 (btw a very good and affordable lense) and I used it for years. You can find it here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF_16-35mm_lens Better corner performance than version I and II of the F2,8 model. Anyway, the 14-35/4 outperforms the 16-35/4 a little bit in IQ (I compared them) and has the extra 2mm.

Ok, now I understand what you meant - thanks! I'm familiar with the RF 1.4 TC issue and have read several times about the workaround using the Commlite adapter (only among wildlife photography, which I also do), but I haven't yet dared to order and modify it (doesn't actually look soooo complicated). I think I should give it a try – especially since I still own a relatively old Kenko 1.4 TC, which is probably even worse in terms of image quality. Ohh, and I just found out that the Canon RF 1,4 TC is about the same size as the Kenko - so finding the right Nauticam zoom ring shouldn't be a problem, looks quite promising. Well, at least RomiK seems to be much more convinced by the WACP-C in this post: ... although of course he only shows a crop from the center of the image. 😉 Well, I would love the flexibility of the WACP-C, because I haven't had that for many years. On the other hand, I don't want to trade it for significantly worse image quality, especially since the WACP-C isn't exactly cheap.

Thank you for your detailed answer, Chris! Of course, I've already read many posts here in the forum regarding WA. Unfortunately, it seems no one(!) uses the WACP-C with the 24-50 or the 15-30 STM, or at least I can't find any reviews of it. I've also read DreiFish's excellent posts, but as you mentioned yourself, he only evaluates the 24-50 with the WWL-C. A friend uses the WACP-C on a 5D4 and an old 28-70 (if I remember correctly) and is very impressed compared to the 8-15/4. Perhaps his statement made me too optimistic that I would have significant optical advantages with the WACP-C compared to my 8-15/4 setup. Does anyone here in the forum use the 28-70 (28-80) with a WACP-C? I haven't found any comments on that, at least. Unfortunately, I don't understand this statement - could you explain it again in other words? In my opinion, my only option with the R5 is to use the RF/EF adapter, the Kenko TC and then the 8-15/4 lens. Or do you mean I should replace the Kenko with a Canon RF 1.4x teleconverter (that I already own), then an extension tube and then mount the 8-15/4? Wouldn't I lose focus at infinite distance? Or would that be irrelevant because of the projection in the dome port? But maybe I misunderstood you completely... Thanks for that comment – I hadn't read any reviews yet and, based on Nauticam's recommendation of this lens for WACP-C, I assumed the optical performance was at least acceptable. By the way, I immediately cancelled my order for the 24-50 with my dealer this morning. 😉 Okay, I'll take note of that. 😁 I already read that the 140mm FE dome would be a very good choice for the 8-15/4, but I find it astonishing that it actually performs better than a superdome. I still have no choice using a superdome when it comes to split shots... To be on the save side: is it this one? Nauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120) | PanOceanPNauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120)...House of Underwater Photography | Nauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120 | authorized Nauticam Dealer in Germany | FREE SHIPPING within th I've already sold it. 🙄 I'm too much of a pixel peeper to be satisfied with the 14-35/4 lens and the 8.5" acrylic dome port combination. Even back then, with my 5D4, the EF 16-35/4 and a 230mm superdome, the corners didn't look that great, and behind the acrylic dome port it'l be even worse. Finally I think I'm now somewhat disillusioned about finding a (reasonably handy and affordable) system that will offer me significantly better corner performance. WACP-2 or FCP are out of reach, financially and in terms of weight.

Hello, as a user of a Canon R5 and a newcomer here in the forum (though I've been with wetpixel for many years), I'm currently switching from Seacam to Nauticam and my main question is about wide-angle - what else 😁. For many years I photographed with the Canon EF 8-15/4 (often in combination with a Kenko 1.4x TC) behind a superdome or the small fisheye macro port (CFWA). Now I would like to photograph with even better corner performance and more compact dimensions in the future, and therefore I was considering the Nauticam WACP-C. Unfortunately, I can't find any informative reviews and/or images online about the best(!) camera/lens combination for Canon FF mirrorless cameras. The RF 24-50 is recommended, but I'd like to know if, for example, the Canon RF 15-30 STM might offer better image quality (it only has 85° at the long end), or if an older adapted EF lens (e.g., the 28-80) would be advisable (it has 54° at the long end compared to the RF 24-50's 81°, so it would be much more versatile). Or would I ultimately achieve comparable image quality with my old 8-15/4 lens in combination with the Kenko 1.4x TC? I'd probably have to stop down significantly more to avoid corner softness, even behind a super dome. I also read here in the forum about the combination of the EF 8-15/4 with a 2x TC on a Sony, but I don't know if that works with Canon. I know that the WACP-1 has up to 1 stop better image quality than the WACP-C (probably only visible in the corners), but the WACP-1 is simply too heavy - and a little bit too expensive for me as well. Currently, I only own a Nauticam 8.5" Acrylic Dome Port (SKU # 18802) that came with the 2nd hand housing, which I could use with my Canon 8-15/4. However, I don't know if the image quality would be acceptable. And btw: is there a WA lens recommended to the 8.5" Acrylic Dome? Or does anyone have completely different considerations regarding excellent WA IQ? Btw: I own a RF 14-35/4 and still have the EF 8-15/4, of course. I'll definitely buy a Super Dome later at least for split or wreck shots... well, and I read here in the forum that a 140mm Nauticam dome is hardly recommended for the 8-15/4. I would be grateful for any helpful answers! Best regards, Wahrmut

Hello, based in Germany, I'm a newcomer here - having previously been a member of wetpixel for many, many years (and uwpix - some of the German-speaking photographers might remember). I've been diving for over 30 years and doing underwater photography for more than 20 years. Currently I'm using Canon mirrorless cameras and dive in cooler water (German lakes, North Sea) and in the tropics as well. I've already read quite a bit in this forum, and if I'm authorized to do so, I'll soon post an urgent question about WA gear. Actually, I don't know how many posts I need to make before I can create my own and let myself be surprised. Best regards, Wahrmut