flowdesign

Proof of protection🤣 Found this after a blackwater dive, seems some collisions happened when they put my gear on the boat, it really helps!

You shall not expect too much with 50mm even with latest camera body😂 But it really depends on your faviorite: super macro, blackwater, or just some critters in slow move and big like a thumb.

If the TPU inner ring is too tight to fit, use warm water to make it softer TPU_Insert_Short_V4.stl PETG_Shell_Short_V4.stl

Can any admin change the subject from "Light" to "Lite"? A stupid typo😂

Nauticam introduced a filter holder for MFO-3 to protect the surface glass since they "intended" not to add a small hood for it by default🤣 57$ is pretty much pricy for such a small stuff, so I make this ligher version by 3D print, couple bucks of even cheaper if you have a printer or someone can help you on it. It contains 2 parts: Inner ring by TPU, it can be stick to the lens with that circle groove; the outer part is built by PETG or PETG-CF, it is ligher bur durable to protect. the upside is reduced to 82mm so it's easier to have a lens cap on it. I can upload the STL files if needed

Mount on the x-adventurer flip, without adding M67 adaptor, it works fine. So I'd agree with Chris, most of the flip shall be ok.

I'm working on it, built a TPU version but it doesn't fit with 82mm cap (which is common for the original lens cap), the Nauticam 57$ m82-filter-holder-for-mfo-3 inspired me to make a refined version, shall be ready in couple days.

So it seems that best option for super macro is to use TC1.4 plus 100mm lens only, no wet lens attached, but it will lose the flexiblity of changing focal length underwater.

I got the 20mm extension ring on weekend, same result as you when I tested on land. Also did a very rough testing for the "real" magnification with 90mm and new 100mm, plus smc-1, the result is simliar with Nauticam port chart. So I assume using TC might be the better way to show power of 1.4X

@Pietro This result is on air or UW? Asking this because I was just informed by Marelux that they are going to develop a new port for 100mm Macro, since they alreday tested with 15mm and 20mm extension ring. 15mm is too tight, 20mm will have vignetting with wet lens, I asked them about testing details but no reply yet. It'd be good if you can share more hands-on experience😆

If there only has limited space inside housing, li-po pack would be the acceptable option, cause you can find almost any size of the battery pack from market (Aliexpress if you can order from it), but you must be caution that li-po pack is very susceptible to physical damage due to soft pouch construction. My previous battery pack was using a li-po pack but with metal shell for the advanced protection, but it takes extral space. Never worry about the charging board since the size could be around 16*14mm, you can put anywhere inside the housing.

There has a tiny charging board covered by heat shrink tube and silicon rubber, it will have consistent output in 5V, this is one of the model I was testing, but not the final version And this is the final version This was designed for the old sony camera which is using FW50 battery, and now I'm using the new version on my Marelux housing, larger battery and "smart" charigng board

Woo! What a small world, this is my DIY battery pack which was used on Nauticam A7II case, so I assume you are the second owner of my case🤣

Have you tried this snoot in water? I did similar snoot with couple glasses and didn't seal the tube to allow water coming in, even with support by GPT to setup the right focal length with multiple glasses to reduce the light output angle, it could be only 8mm spot at 10cm distance from the snoot, considering the impact of sea water. Everything looks perfect in the air but when I tried it in the real dive, it didn't work as expected, the spot is much bigger and the brightness was also much more lower as what I tested in air.

Hi Isaac, really a nice try with 3D printing. Can you share more details about the material you were using, PETG or Nylon?