flowdesign

I get one about 2 years ago but I have to say it's not so good as I expected. Especially when you are trying to adjust the buoyancy by squeezing it, if you squeeze too much air out, you have to tak off your mouthpiece and blow it again, so on and so forth, then you will give up to use it again...🤣

Two options so far: You can get this M82 Filter Holder for MFO-3 from Nauticam, put a common 82mm lens cap on it or screw another UV filter. Try this 3D print hood as a cheaper alternative.

Consider to add a hood to protect the lens😄

That's exactly something cannot be predicted before printing🤣 I have tried different materials (PETG, PETG-CF, TPU80, TPU95, etc.), overall is ok but you have to accept the tolerance even you are using the same setting on same printer. Tips for the installation, if it's too tight to assemble, put two parts into warm water (NOT HOT!!!) to soften it, then you will feel easier to put it on the right position.

I was using TC1.4 and new 100mm macro in my last dive trip, for me I'm really satisfied witht the image quality, here is a corp of central part for your reference. This is a tiny Anker's Whip Coral Shrimp about 6-7mm in length.

I did some modification to my LSD, to make is eaiser to attach\deattach from the strobe, the major part can be clipped on the BCD for most of the time underwater.

I'd expect the similar result as using Sony FF body+90mm macro, larger FOV, zero to almost infinity focal, and slightly negative magnification. And maybe faster AF?

Interesting, I suppose that RC mode only has the relevance with camera body, seems I need try the lens before making the order. Thanks for the suggestion.

Honestly, I can’t even imagine trying to chase blackwater critters with a 90mm — that thing would make it impossible.😆

Thanks for the suggestion, so what do you think about the focus speed and accuracy comparison for these two lens?

Hi Alex, I believe now you are always using MFO-3 in the blackwater, considering the focal area change, will you also change the strobe position a little bit or still keep the same as what you showed in this pic?

Hi Chris, fully agree with MFO-3's advantages, I used in my last dive trip together with new Sony 100mm macro, really incredible result, even it was my first "real" blackwater dive. But considering to have two MFO-3 is a really "Crazy" idea😊 I know you have very rich experience on various macro lens for M43, just want to know the overall impression between 30mm and 60mm+MFO-3 for the blackwater? Focusing speed, focal length, FOV, etc. Big thanks in advance~

I have no experience of M43 UWP, but theoretically it must be more powerful than TG series in most cases. Consider over 85-90% of our diving is only for macro, we rarely need to shoot macro and wide angle just in one dive even for the dives at the same day. Which means, I don't have to consider to use one lens fits for all, and if the existing wet lens can be used to enpower the entire setup, that's great, but if not, I'm also fine with that😀 Since the marco setup is much more important, I'd like to know: Does 60mm is enough for both normal macro and blackwater, or 30mm is recommended for the blackwater? As what Chris mentioned, panasonic 30 might be a better choice, but anyone has chance to check whether it could fie the same port as OM 30mm? It is 63.5mm in length, 3.5mm longer than OM 30mm.

Thanks for mentioning, it is the typo~ And if I can sell the WWL-1 in a resaonable price, definitely I can have more options to consider for wide angle

The main consideration of entire setup is: Cover most of scenarios with less components, after checking AOI port chart, it seems I can use 1 port + 1 extension ring to cover both 3 different kinds of shot Agree with you that CMC-1 might not be necessary but since it's a spare part from old setup without any additional cost, could make the decision afterwards. And talking about the selection of wide angle, just because of one existing WWL-1 with no cost🤣